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Once You Go Organic You CAN'T Go Back

ExoSteve

Member
I don't understand why organic fruit at the grocery store are always smaller and not as healthy...because organic is suposed to give big fruit and juicy fruits!!! WTG!!
 

mad librettist

Active member
Veteran
I don't understand why organic fruit at the grocery store are always smaller and not as healthy...because organic is suposed to give big fruit and juicy fruits!!! WTG!!

"healthy" fruit meaning what?

free from any blemish, and shiny like a new toy?
 

medmaker420

The Aardvarks LED Grow Show
Veteran
Since you had problems before you should just follow one of the Organics for Beginners recipes - they are fail proof.

Pine

I don't know if I would say I had real problems, I guess it was more me being used to focus on my nutes, my ph, my ec, my ppm etc. Not having to do that freaked me out I guess lol. I just am used to what I do and want to make the full change finally.

I am doing that as we speak and I have the organics for beginners in my favorites. I already learned to NOT use perlite and inturn use DE which I have on its way.

Great resource here!
:jump:
 
I

Iron_Lion

I don't understand why organic fruit at the grocery store are always smaller and not as healthy...because organic is suposed to give big fruit and juicy fruits!!! WTG!!

Organic is not a guarantee of greatness. I have run organics for years, and I have had great crops and I have had not so great crops. No 2 organic gardens are the same, and I have noticed a difference in quality with subtle changes to my organic regime and environment.

I also know a guy that grows 100% organic, he uses a well known dry fertilizer product and quality soil, but he is a lazy gardener that runs a very simple nutrient program. His buds are never very impressive and pretty crappy quality for indoor organic, but this is because he is neglectful and doesn't put in the little extra work it takes to get a great buds.

The better you know your plants the better your organic products come out.
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
this is part of the reason i would like to see true organic referenced as "living soil" or some such distinguishing it from barely "organic" just complying w/ the law on products and not really knowing what living soil is about
 

mg75

Member
there are hydro-organic (water soluble and ready for immediate plant uptake) nutrients you can use if you would like to fix/correct issues.
 

medmaker420

The Aardvarks LED Grow Show
Veteran
that is true as well. Having some liquid to add as needed will odds are fix most of my "issues" indeed. I just have to "break the bottle" so to speak lol. I need to get off the bottled nutes and focus on the organic side.

I have a worm bin coming, worms and a compost tumbler. I am also going to build some "bat boxes" on my property in hopes of getting fresh guana on property (I think it could work right?)
 

ExoSteve

Member
Here's a 6.75 oz DRY AK-47 plant. All Organic, right out of Burn 1's/3lb quad ammended combo recipe.
picture.php

Light per plants and size pot make a huge difference too...
 
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Iron_Lion

this is part of the reason i would like to see true organic referenced as "living soil" or some such distinguishing it from barely "organic" just complying w/ the law on products and not really knowing what living soil is about

"TLO" or Total Living Organic is a term I see thrown around elsewhere, I think this best describes the IC organics forum style of growing or for us soil-heads.

There is a lot of growers out there calling their bud organic when in reality it's not. The "organic" bottle nutrients can be deceptive and not really organic when you get down to it.
 
When I first started growing I spent about $200 in various Foxfarm soils and the amendments to make a batch of LC #1 mix and a batch of MoonshineMan Mix. This was two years ago and I have since reused the soils, amending as needed and adding kitchen scraps. The two mixes over time have been commingled. At first I found better results with the MMM batch so favored that, in case any wants to know.

I am using GH Flora ferts though too so I need to learn to drop those and make teas or something instead. I use Blumats, straight water only so I dont have to worry about feeding a flushing plant in my flower rotation. If a plant looks hungry I mix up a little Rez Recipe pretty much. So maybe once or twice a week I feed them watering directly into the 5 gallon smartpot till it drips out.

The bat roost and worm bin ideas are great. Something like that would wean me of Flora ferts.
 
I have spent part of my afternoon looking into bat roosts :)
Oh, am not worried about the neg rep. OP is struggling with having non organic nutes around too.
Thanks xmobotx. Rock dust is missing from my arsenal. I have top dressed with Happy Frog dry ferts...
Have toyed with the idea of organic dry fert pucks to put under the Blumat dripper. But first, to wean myself off synthetic ferts!
 

medmaker420

The Aardvarks LED Grow Show
Veteran
My girls are almost a week clean!

No more chemicals for my babies lol.

They didn't even have mood swings, the shakes or throw up!
 
Light per plants and size pot make a huge difference too...

I view it as light per gallon of soil. If I was a cab grower, I would not use pots. I'd have the entire base soil. IMHO, the amount of soil used should be as much as physically possible. I'm in the business of growing roots, not plants.
 

medmaker420

The Aardvarks LED Grow Show
Veteran
I view it as light per gallon of soil. If I was a cab grower, I would not use pots. I'd have the entire base soil. IMHO, the amount of soil used should be as much as physically possible. I'm in the business of growing roots, not plants.

any suggestions on being able to accomplish this but on a perpetual schedule in any fashion? Leave roots in and repot near it? Just wondering how a perpetual style bed grow might work out IF even possible.

I am trying to figure out what size pots I want to use for flower right now and a nice big ol bed of soil would be GREAT if possible.
 
any suggestions on being able to accomplish this but on a perpetual schedule in any fashion? Leave roots in and repot near it? Just wondering how a perpetual style bed grow might work out IF even possible.

I am trying to figure out what size pots I want to use for flower right now and a nice big ol bed of soil would be GREAT if possible.

I run a perpetual soil/grow. I.e. as soon as I cut I ammend and put back in. I simply dump out all the soil in tubs, get as many of the roots out, ammend and repot with clones or plants and go. My soil NEVER dies it lives on and lives strong. EW casting tea all the way to the end, beginning, middle, with some veg and flower guano teas here and there (depends on the strain). EW casting tea is super cheap. Im straight to the gate everytime. I follow B1's recipies to the T. I dont fuck around, to the T.
 
I'll put it like this. I've got friends who run DWC, flood tables, 3 part soil nutes, and every kind of gimmick nute bottle they can get their hands on. I kill them with yield, turn around, and quality EVERYTIME. Since I've been lurking here I laugh at the misconception organics=lower yield, higher quality. Been there, that one paragraph I read of B1's "Organics for beginners changed everything for me.
 
I view it as light per gallon of soil. If I was a cab grower, I would not use pots. I'd have the entire base soil. IMHO, the amount of soil used should be as much as physically possible. I'm in the business of growing roots, not plants.

I have been just tossing my recycled soil back into a large tub with added compost and using it as I need it for about 3 years now. I've thought about filling up my kiddie pool with my mix and just doing a perpetual but what has always kept me from doing it is that my light source is in the middle and the plants on the outskirts have to be taller just to get to the light that is available. I guess I could put some sativa doms on the outside but that would mean all my plants go in at one time to the flower room. I used to do it that way but production is very slow compared to bringing in a group of plants every couple of weeks from the veg room as they are ready. Then I can arrange them around the light according to size and they all get good light and the flower room always stays at capacity. This is why I am still using individual pots for each plant. The size of the pot depends on how long I let them veg and that depends on how much room I have under the flower light.
 
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