Couldn't find anything on the interwebs and I'm not ready to experiment on a $60 bulb.
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Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons
- Thread starter blynx
- Start date
Couldn't find anything on the interwebs and I'm not ready to experiment on a $60 bulb.
Drop That Sound
Well-known member
I did end up going with the corn. High temps here really stressed out my Blueberry so I made the switch to E39 80W 3000K LED. Plant seems to like it. She perked right up. I have a reflector in the roof so I'm not losing all light but I get what you all are saying. I'll rig something up for maybe 9 bulbs next grow. About to start flower and things are already tight in there.
Or buy another one, and stack them for a micro vert setup
BigHitGuy420
Member
Ok so I tested the lux at the canopy(And ik led's aren't accurate) and it was around 93,000. Is this too much? My plant is fairly big so maybe it can take it all. Let me know what y'all think.
@blynx & @Terpene and everyone who contributed to this thread, I can't recall If I already thanked you guys (stoner memory...), impressive job. (I read it almost entirely!)I've done everything but CMH with regards to lightning; CFL PLLs, 600w HPS, different Home Made LED fixtures mixing white + reds, and now running a 400w HPS.
This thread has been an eye opener for me, possibly because you guys dig the same kind of genetics I'm after, landrace sativa hybrids, which are rather demanding with regards of light. And you proof what kind of results you can get with E27 LED bulbs (plus the expertise your shared of course!!)
Loved also Blynx "drastic" technique to shape his plants, gonna use it for sure on next batch!
I was about to use a COB rig I diy'ed using 4 100W COBs; I had already purchased back in 2014, but decided I won't use it to "supplement" the 400W HPS as I'm short of vertical space for proper canopy distance.
After reading this thread and some thinking, I'll be using 6 11W Philips 2700K e27 bulbs (24€ for six on Amazon), hanging directly from their wires to position them on top of those colas in need; thinking on leaving 6-8" distance from the tops.
I found is it actually the LED chip wattage rating used on the bulb or HML/COB --more than the actual wattage each specific LED chip is run at or overall bulb/HML/COB rig watts-- what dictates distance to canopy. These 11W bulbs LED chips seem to be like 3W, so 6-8" should be good in theory.
@charass loved the ready to smoke spliff in the "group" shot of the crop!! lovely touch!
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Thanks!
10x15W 2700K e27 led + 2x24W 6000K e27 led
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=74368&pictureid=1792511&thumb=1]View Image[/url]
What size is your cab to allow 200W of light and heat, especially the height, and how far from the lights did you keep them ?
I have a small cab (14"x24x28" high) and I'm wondering how many Watts to go, I currently have around 75W in it and plants seem to love it, but running out of headroom.
Charass
Active member
My cab size: ~80"x20"x35"
In the first few months, only 40 inches was the height of the cabinet. At flowering I was modified to 80 inches because of the high temperature.
Average temperature measured at top buds: 24-26 degree celsius.
The lamp burned the leaves several times. Finally, the correct distance was ~ 11 inches.
Yummy rosin:
Update: Vol. 2
In the first few months, only 40 inches was the height of the cabinet. At flowering I was modified to 80 inches because of the high temperature.
Average temperature measured at top buds: 24-26 degree celsius.
The lamp burned the leaves several times. Finally, the correct distance was ~ 11 inches.
Yummy rosin:
Update: Vol. 2
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Right now you're at 41w per sq feet, from Terpene posts, 25-30 watts per sq feet seem to be the sweet spot when using LED bulbs.
For those with grow spaces on the "tall but narrow" side (closets etc), I found that using an "octopus" to hang and position each bulb at different heights provides lots of convenience, I just posted a wiring scheme and how to build one (really easy and safe)
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My quick calculations gives me almost 2.3 sq feet, so that would be almost 33 watts per sq ft. I'll leave it as it is for now, no signs of any light burn so far.
Nice octopus, I must give those wago terminal blocks a try, they must really speed up the wiring.
B
Bongi
I am going to try and take those bulbs apart and make them take less vertical space. Ball bulbs are epoxied together and not meant for taking apart. I hope I dont break many of them. I think I will order corn cob type bulbs next mont.
I should already have few extra ball bulbs somewhere for my experiment.
I should already have few extra ball bulbs somewhere for my experiment.
B
Bongi
It did not take long. I did break one bulb but I managed to put it together in way that works.
I would love to hear some safety experts oppinion on this.
Is it safe to solder 230V connections?
I would love to hear some safety experts oppinion on this.
Is it safe to solder 230V connections?
Why dissasemble a E27 bulb? cannot you position them outside of the growing space for that vertical space height gain? Maybe use 9W so that less distance is required, and more bulbs?
IMHO The beauty of using them is everything is off the shelf (easy), self-contained and safe, that's why I found WAGOs to be a nice complement in the same easy, self-contained and safe way.
Now to the question: It is safe as long as you don't make any cold solder joint that can suddenly detach from the PCB pad and short elsewhere. And you have no other option but soldering if you want to reuse that driver PCB.
Having said that, by the pictures solder joints could look better, difficult to judge because the picture has out of focus movement, but would say they may look as "cold" solder joints.
Suggestions:
- Pre-Tin the pads and the wire ends first. Do not tin in excess. Over-strip the wire ends, tinning from the insulation side towards the wire tip. Cut tinned tips afterwards to desired size for nice and even wire ends, also to get rid of the "crud" that accumulates in the tinned tip due to the rosin and copper oxide at tinning time: soldering will be easier and end result cleaner.
- Use thinner, flexibler wire. Will require less heat, soldering will be easier and end result better. LED bulbs AC draw is really low (11W? 13W?) no need for thick wires, which also increases the risk of PCB pads "peeling off" while soldering, or worse and riskier: while functioning due to heat plus wire stiffness.
- To solder, firmly press tinned wire end on top of freshly tinned PCB pad, then apply the iron tip so that it touches the pad + wire tip so that both heat at the same time.
- Never blow over a solder joint to cool it down.
This may be of help, really good reference for soldering: Adafruit Guide to Excellent Soldering (Surface Mount)
IMHO The beauty of using them is everything is off the shelf (easy), self-contained and safe, that's why I found WAGOs to be a nice complement in the same easy, self-contained and safe way.
Now to the question: It is safe as long as you don't make any cold solder joint that can suddenly detach from the PCB pad and short elsewhere. And you have no other option but soldering if you want to reuse that driver PCB.
Having said that, by the pictures solder joints could look better, difficult to judge because the picture has out of focus movement, but would say they may look as "cold" solder joints.
Suggestions:
- Pre-Tin the pads and the wire ends first. Do not tin in excess. Over-strip the wire ends, tinning from the insulation side towards the wire tip. Cut tinned tips afterwards to desired size for nice and even wire ends, also to get rid of the "crud" that accumulates in the tinned tip due to the rosin and copper oxide at tinning time: soldering will be easier and end result cleaner.
- Use thinner, flexibler wire. Will require less heat, soldering will be easier and end result better. LED bulbs AC draw is really low (11W? 13W?) no need for thick wires, which also increases the risk of PCB pads "peeling off" while soldering, or worse and riskier: while functioning due to heat plus wire stiffness.
- To solder, firmly press tinned wire end on top of freshly tinned PCB pad, then apply the iron tip so that it touches the pad + wire tip so that both heat at the same time.
- Never blow over a solder joint to cool it down.
This may be of help, really good reference for soldering: Adafruit Guide to Excellent Soldering (Surface Mount)
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B
Bongi
I have 2 pc grow boxes which dont have lot of vertical room and if I modify leds I can add passive watering system under my pots.
Thanks for tips. I will follow them.
This was just a test to see if I can take it apart and make it work. I did not have any other wire than super thin and that one I used.
Thanks for tips. I will follow them.
This was just a test to see if I can take it apart and make it work. I did not have any other wire than super thin and that one I used.
Not my intention to steer you away from your project, but... wouldn't it be much neater and possibly on same budget to use a Samsung Quantum board or F series strip then? (not to mention work involved)
B
Bongi
You are right repuk. I changed my mind after my slow brain had done thinking. It is not good idea to use bulb leds the way I intented. I will look at those leds. Thanks.
