Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons
- Thread starter blynx
- Start date
What's the largest garden someone has lite with sils? I know someone has gotta have a room full of these bad mamajamas, and if you are somewhere out there I'd love to see your setup. I've had exceptional results with a 350w light made from a mix of 5k and 2700k, (25) great value walmart 14w bulbs. Grams per watt SIL light puts DE 630w CMHs to shame, even when pheno hunting. Your tried and true cultivars will surprise you too.
Stoner Jay
Member
Hey man.
I believe there is someone in this thread that's using something like 800 watts of sils if memor calls. It's insane. Haha.
I am planning this route for a 1m x 1m tent. (3.3ft x 3.3ft )Currently running 170 watts of sils in at the moment, but wanting to expand a bit.
Could I possibly check your setup with your 350 watt sils? Looking for ideas on mounting all of them which will give a even light distribution.
Thanks man
What is the most clean, effective and efficient way you've found to remove SIL globes?
As a online supplier of SIL for Europe, is there any names you could recommend? Any brand in particular that is know for offering a variety of 3500,4000 and 6500k with high chip count and adequate watt output?
Thanks!
As a online supplier of SIL for Europe, is there any names you could recommend? Any brand in particular that is know for offering a variety of 3500,4000 and 6500k with high chip count and adequate watt output?
Thanks!
Stoner Jay
Member
I personally found a grinder is great at taking the tops off sils. Quick and oh so super easy.
Regarding brands. Can't be much of help, but have found the well known name brands do well at lumen/watt output.
In my setup have the below brands.
Philips
Osram
Boocoodinkydow
Active member
No recommendations on brands.
The domes are simply glued to the base. Plug them in long enough to bring them to operating temp and carefully pry them off at the attaching point. I use a 1” wide wood chisel as the tool of choice but a wide blade screwdriver would probably suffice. Not my idea. Tribute to a former contributor mired somewhere in these hundreds of pages.
The domes are simply glued to the base. Plug them in long enough to bring them to operating temp and carefully pry them off at the attaching point. I use a 1” wide wood chisel as the tool of choice but a wide blade screwdriver would probably suffice. Not my idea. Tribute to a former contributor mired somewhere in these hundreds of pages.
noknees
Member
i favor a dremel with a cutoff wheel. a bit loud and dusty, but effective and kind of fun. maybe overkill, but that's me.
hastings
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=8458677#post8458677
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Should you have access to a well controlled temperature oven, you can heat batches of them up at once. There's a point where the glue/adhesive softens, and it's well below danger temps for electronics.
Thanks for the guidelines guys. I've tried with a screwdriver and for the bulbs I've got it seems I can't manage to take globes of without damaging a bit the plastic on the bottom part. Not the cleanest way, for sure.
Boocoodinkydow, thanks for the suggestion. I'll try it out and see if it makes it easier for the globes to come off.
Douglas.Curtis, unfortunately no access to a decent oven with controlled low-temperature settings. But indeed that seems like the most effective with the less amount of time/work input.
Boocoodinkydow, thanks for the suggestion. I'll try it out and see if it makes it easier for the globes to come off.
Douglas.Curtis, unfortunately no access to a decent oven with controlled low-temperature settings. But indeed that seems like the most effective with the less amount of time/work input.
Hookahhead
Active member
I use a pair of channel locks. Grab the globe at the end farthest from the base. From here you have good leverage to pry the globe off. The Osram I use are glued on well, some of the generic ones pop right off. I chipped one of the LEDs trying to pry off my first globe, killing the entire bulb.
Zientist: I got mine from Amazon... Philips and a German no-name brand.
I pry the globes off with a well sized flat screwdriver (so that you have a good grip to apply torque).
Place the bulb over a bench or table, hold it with one hand.
With the other hand hold the flat screwdriver perpendicular to the table when trying to slide the tip in the bulb seam, in such a way that if it slips, it will never pierce the hand holding the globe. Careful!!!
I just slide the flat tip where globe and base meet, then twist the screwdriver, that will unglue and pry off either the whole globe, or only a part; if so, I repeat the process on another bulb area until the bulb pops off.
First one will be difficult, for the next one, look carefully how was the first assembled so that you get the screwdriver on the most strategic area.
Philips are really well glued, but can pop off the globes of a dozen SILs in minutes with a screwdriver once you get the hang of it: the bigger the screwdriver handle, and the widest but thinnest the tip, the better.
I pry the globes off with a well sized flat screwdriver (so that you have a good grip to apply torque).
Place the bulb over a bench or table, hold it with one hand.
With the other hand hold the flat screwdriver perpendicular to the table when trying to slide the tip in the bulb seam, in such a way that if it slips, it will never pierce the hand holding the globe. Careful!!!
I just slide the flat tip where globe and base meet, then twist the screwdriver, that will unglue and pry off either the whole globe, or only a part; if so, I repeat the process on another bulb area until the bulb pops off.
First one will be difficult, for the next one, look carefully how was the first assembled so that you get the screwdriver on the most strategic area.
Philips are really well glued, but can pop off the globes of a dozen SILs in minutes with a screwdriver once you get the hang of it: the bigger the screwdriver handle, and the widest but thinnest the tip, the better.
Much appreciated infos Repuk, thank you. I've tried a couple approaches, still testing the most effective way to do it.
I'm sampling some SILs to find the best for my setup. Thought I'd left these here for future reference. I'll acquire some more in a near future and scrutinize them as well.
For now, these are have the best value, the brand is LED-POL model Oro, prices ranging from around 1,7€ to 2,5€ on the source I got them from, with the following specs (20k hour lifespan, all E27):
-6w, 470lm, 14 chips, 4000k and 6500k
-9w, 810lm, 9 chips, 4000k and 6500k
-11w, 1055lm, 11 chips, 3000, 4000, 6500k
They seem like they can work out, considering all the details I've gathered from all your contributions to this thread and similar others.
Those of you with more experience on the SIL world, with special mention to those who very successfully run those awesome pure Sativas and Sativa-leaning varieties under them, would consider them adequate and well performing for the job? Assuming that the 376w/m2 is fulfilled. (and that my W/ square feet conversion is correct, also), that is.
I'm looking for the best case scenario for a SIL setup here.
Still very green on this side of things, for all the years I've been growing it has been under HPS and occasionally fluoros for veg. Only very recently getting more into detail on SIL and smaller setups.
Kind regards
I'm sampling some SILs to find the best for my setup. Thought I'd left these here for future reference. I'll acquire some more in a near future and scrutinize them as well.
For now, these are have the best value, the brand is LED-POL model Oro, prices ranging from around 1,7€ to 2,5€ on the source I got them from, with the following specs (20k hour lifespan, all E27):
-6w, 470lm, 14 chips, 4000k and 6500k
-9w, 810lm, 9 chips, 4000k and 6500k
-11w, 1055lm, 11 chips, 3000, 4000, 6500k
They seem like they can work out, considering all the details I've gathered from all your contributions to this thread and similar others.
Those of you with more experience on the SIL world, with special mention to those who very successfully run those awesome pure Sativas and Sativa-leaning varieties under them, would consider them adequate and well performing for the job? Assuming that the 376w/m2 is fulfilled. (and that my W/ square feet conversion is correct, also), that is.
I'm looking for the best case scenario for a SIL setup here.
Still very green on this side of things, for all the years I've been growing it has been under HPS and occasionally fluoros for veg. Only very recently getting more into detail on SIL and smaller setups.
Kind regards
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The Zientist said:
Those are perfect, at least in paper. Given the low chip count, you'll need to experiment a little with canopy distance, I'd leave 30cm/12" minimum. How much vertical space do you have?
I grow Sativas or Sativa hybrids exclusively.
I've been running this:
Purple 11w Philips 6500K
Blue 15w, German no name 5000K
Red 11w Philips 2700K
with incredible results (1,6gpw) Kalichakra:
Or this one
Black: 2700K Philips 11W (50000 hours)
Blue: 6500K Philips 13W (50000 hours)
Total power: 210W
also with incredible results (Golden Tiger x Panama):
I don't weight anymore... but I'm sure GPW on this one was also close to 1,5.
Details on specific SILs chip count, comparison, etc.
I'd say this one helps preventing stretch better than the square 241w one, whereas the 241W one promotes really thick branches/stems and seem to be really appreciated by sativas (foxtailing).
Black: 2700K Philips 11W (50000 hours)
Blue: 6500K Philips 13W (50000 hours)
Total power: 210W
also with incredible results (Golden Tiger x Panama):
I don't weight anymore... but I'm sure GPW on this one was also close to 1,5.
Details on specific SILs chip count, comparison, etc.
I'd say this one helps preventing stretch better than the square 241w one, whereas the 241W one promotes really thick branches/stems and seem to be really appreciated by sativas (foxtailing).
Repuk, your help is invaluable.
What's the chip count on your SILs? The results are impressive, both in terms of yield and general appearance.
On both your setups, do you feel there's one giving of a better finished end product? Or in any way expressing the potential of the plants to a greater extent?
For what my goal is, the emphasis should be on the best marriage between both the terpene and cannabinoid production and yield, I want them to express their full potential, at least to the realistic degree of where the ceiling cap of these types of setups lies.
On your calculations, 31/sqfeet is in regard to the size of your tent and not the light fixture, correct?
I'm limited to 80cm vertical space btw.
What's the chip count on your SILs? The results are impressive, both in terms of yield and general appearance.
On both your setups, do you feel there's one giving of a better finished end product? Or in any way expressing the potential of the plants to a greater extent?
For what my goal is, the emphasis should be on the best marriage between both the terpene and cannabinoid production and yield, I want them to express their full potential, at least to the realistic degree of where the ceiling cap of these types of setups lies.
On your calculations, 31/sqfeet is in regard to the size of your tent and not the light fixture, correct?
I'm limited to 80cm vertical space btw.
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Glad to help! 
Noname German 15W:
I loved them, as they have high chip count (39 chips), they make up for the 15W vs e.g.
Philips 11W 2700K (17 chips):
Philips 13W CorePro 6500K (15000 hours) has even higher count, 25 chips (the whitest seen below) vs Philips 11W:
The square 241W one seems to induce more foxtailing on "proper" sativas, and to express "fall colors" better, but again, look at the Golden Tiger x Panama... I'd say as long as the spectrum mix, and distance to canopy/power is right, plants will thrive; both have similar temp profiles.
What I've found with SILs so far, when compared to other lightning sources (including HPS, Home Made Led, and COBs) is that flowers "swell" more than under other light sources.
Flowers will of course deflate when dried; but after all is mass (weight) what counts...
You also get more pronounced color expressions, and aromas, (specially vs a HPS grown one), buds, hairs, etc seem to be much less "worn" when using SILs vs HPS that "ages" the buds faster.
SILs for the win... specially on micro. The key in your situation is training plants, and watch out for chip count and power, so that you can max out the vertical space usage.
Yes, the floor area they're covering; but bear in mind that doesn't completely depict the situation; even if watts per sq feet are fine (20-30) you need to keep a proper distance vs the canopy, and it's individual SIL power and chip count what impacts this, i.e.: 9W SIL with 3 chips may need more distance than a 11W 20 chip SIL. I'd say in your situation Philips 11W (17 chips) is the max I'd use for 80cm free vertical space.
You can also use lower powered SILs when vegging/sprouting young plants, and replace some with higher powered ones when switching to flower... the good thing with SILs is they're cheap, and you can experiment; any of them not worth for you growing can be reused elsewhere at home!
Word of Caution with Domeless SILs:
As shown, there are exposed metal parts, if you happen to touch them while working at the tent (typical in micro grows) you'll be zapped!! use hot glue or non-conductive silicone to cover them.
Noname German 15W:
I loved them, as they have high chip count (39 chips), they make up for the 15W vs e.g.
Philips 11W 2700K (17 chips):
Philips 13W CorePro 6500K (15000 hours) has even higher count, 25 chips (the whitest seen below) vs Philips 11W:
The Zientist said:
The square 241W one seems to induce more foxtailing on "proper" sativas, and to express "fall colors" better, but again, look at the Golden Tiger x Panama... I'd say as long as the spectrum mix, and distance to canopy/power is right, plants will thrive; both have similar temp profiles.
What I've found with SILs so far, when compared to other lightning sources (including HPS, Home Made Led, and COBs) is that flowers "swell" more than under other light sources.
Flowers will of course deflate when dried; but after all is mass (weight) what counts...
You also get more pronounced color expressions, and aromas, (specially vs a HPS grown one), buds, hairs, etc seem to be much less "worn" when using SILs vs HPS that "ages" the buds faster.
SILs for the win... specially on micro. The key in your situation is training plants, and watch out for chip count and power, so that you can max out the vertical space usage.
Yes, the floor area they're covering; but bear in mind that doesn't completely depict the situation; even if watts per sq feet are fine (20-30) you need to keep a proper distance vs the canopy, and it's individual SIL power and chip count what impacts this, i.e.: 9W SIL with 3 chips may need more distance than a 11W 20 chip SIL. I'd say in your situation Philips 11W (17 chips) is the max I'd use for 80cm free vertical space.
You can also use lower powered SILs when vegging/sprouting young plants, and replace some with higher powered ones when switching to flower... the good thing with SILs is they're cheap, and you can experiment; any of them not worth for you growing can be reused elsewhere at home!
Word of Caution with Domeless SILs:
As shown, there are exposed metal parts, if you happen to touch them while working at the tent (typical in micro grows) you'll be zapped!! use hot glue or non-conductive silicone to cover them.
noknees
Member
if my math is correct, repuk's 241W rig comes out to about 4300k avg, and the 210W to 4100K. they bookend the 4200k CMH! looking at his plants, seems on the nose.
if those bulbs are decent and true to spectrum, i'd be very tempted to keep it simple and run all 4k, and see how she goes. with 31.5" vertical space, that 11w 4k wouldn't suck.
best of luck
RuStonedYet
Member
Dump The Screw Base!
Dump The Screw Base!
I read a lot of the posts in here and nobody has suggested removing the screw base to make these bulbs hard-wireable (LOL I guess that's a word). Anyway I have only started this project, but initial steps seem promising. I bought an entire case of these little 9.5w bulbs for $.50 each, so I thought worth a try.
1) Remove globe as suggested or however you can.
2) Gently grasp screw base and turn pry until free. Wire pliers work well. Be careful the common (black) wire is soldiered, and then carefully reach in the base with small cutters and remove the wire as close to end as possible.
3) Soldier lead wires onto the very short ones. You can easily remove part or all of the base as needed.
4) mount lights in pattern suggested in other posts or create your own.
5) plug in and enjoy your effort.
I am off to RadioShack...D'oh...Home Depot for heat shrink, wire, and soldier. Not sure how I will mount and to what, but I will work that out soon. It look like an easy 1/2 inch hole and glue to mount in series or parallel.
Dump The Screw Base!
I read a lot of the posts in here and nobody has suggested removing the screw base to make these bulbs hard-wireable (LOL I guess that's a word). Anyway I have only started this project, but initial steps seem promising. I bought an entire case of these little 9.5w bulbs for $.50 each, so I thought worth a try.
1) Remove globe as suggested or however you can.
2) Gently grasp screw base and turn pry until free. Wire pliers work well. Be careful the common (black) wire is soldiered, and then carefully reach in the base with small cutters and remove the wire as close to end as possible.
3) Soldier lead wires onto the very short ones. You can easily remove part or all of the base as needed.
4) mount lights in pattern suggested in other posts or create your own.
5) plug in and enjoy your effort.
I am off to RadioShack...D'oh...Home Depot for heat shrink, wire, and soldier. Not sure how I will mount and to what, but I will work that out soon. It look like an easy 1/2 inch hole and glue to mount in series or parallel.
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Hookahhead
Active member
The Osram 9.5w are the highest advertised efficiency (111 lm/watt) I’ve found in stores. I can’t find the same bulbs online anywhere.
The daylight bulbs are all that and a bag of chips... 30 of them! 6500k
The warm light have fewer chips, but the same advertised efficiency? 21 chips, 3000k.
Also I have two generic 11w warm bulbs that have a pitiful chip count. Westinghouse 14 chip 3000k advertised at 95.5 lm/watt.
The daylight bulbs are all that and a bag of chips... 30 of them! 6500k
The warm light have fewer chips, but the same advertised efficiency? 21 chips, 3000k.
Also I have two generic 11w warm bulbs that have a pitiful chip count. Westinghouse 14 chip 3000k advertised at 95.5 lm/watt.
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Hookahhead
Active member
Rust, there have been a few people on here that have discussed removing the screw in base. Some have gone as far as mounting these to a heat plate, they’re basically like miniature quantum boards when you removing the housing. You’ll certainly gain another inch or 2 of head room too.
However, many people enjoy the screw in aspect. The main advantage for me is that we can switch out bulbs as desired. I have replaced generic bulbs with better bulbs/spectrum as I’ve found them.
Good luck with your project, be sure to post photos here as you progress!
However, many people enjoy the screw in aspect. The main advantage for me is that we can switch out bulbs as desired. I have replaced generic bulbs with better bulbs/spectrum as I’ve found them.
Good luck with your project, be sure to post photos here as you progress!
