Noobin up a PPK

[DHF]

Dave, imo you should strongly consider running a light base nutrient of maxibloom, and apply everything else including maxibloom as a foliar spray. I said in another post that plants can absorb 10% of nutes applied to to the roots, and 90% of what's applied to the leaves. Its both more economical and efficient to apply a foliar spray. You should be able to mix everything up and spray it, or separate the CaMg from everything else if you're concerned about it reacting with the other nutes.

I've started applying foliar sprays on a weekly basis, and I'm very happy with the results.

I`ve got a problem with foliar spraying indoors due to residual salt buildup on the leaves that clog said stomatas , but once a week seems tolerable as long as the plants stay in optimum RH levels through end of stretch......but....

Dave`s RH sucks balls , and repeated foliars will guaranteed over time make a coating over the leaves if shit dries out too fast , and then proper transpiration is affected.....now....

I haveta question nutrient uptake in the rootzone only being 10% in plant growth with the remaining 90% going where ?...to be sweat out through the leaves and not used by the plants ?.....

I fully understand the benefits of foliar spraying since there`s waaaay more surface area for nutrients to be absorbed/used and converted compared to the rootmass pulling from what`s bein fed at X intervals depending on container , AND plant size to be determined by each growers limitations in said grow area....anyways.....

Foliars work better with outdoor big plants due to constant day/night temp differentials that produce "morning dew" from condensation , so the leaves can stay clean to provide proper transpiration when nutrient uptake is paramount during swellage in late bloomage......but.......

In low RH environments that`re dialed like GettoGrower`s fogger type setup to keep plants in the 70% range till end of stretch , I`m sure that foliar spraying could be beneficial without worrying about stomata getting clogged up from chem nute salt buildup and slowing proper transpiration , that would guaranteed cause ph to drop and ppms to soar at some point in the game.....regardless....

Never had ta foliar my plants in Hell , but I can say that in lower RH environments if it helps , then by all means do what works.....

Just keep the leaves sprayed off with straight H20 if runnin indoors after foliars to keep said leaves sweatin out residuals NOT used as in that 90% Bobbles is talkin bout FTW.....

Peace.....Freds...........

 

[SRGB]

DaveTheNewbie:

Well it seems as well as a Mg deficiency It seems i have a P deficiency as well.

Hi, DaveTheNewbie.

How did you determine a `P` deficiency? The base Maxi series might contain adequate `P` in either the grow or bloom formulas.

Some good suggestions in recent posts, including trying a base solution alone, and applying supplements via other means, or periodically, if needed.

An optional alternative for lowering pH, in the media at least, might be to spread roughly a filter of spent coffee grounds into the substrate, as a `buffer`. Not by any means a definitive `solution` to the pH issues you have been apparently encountering; just an option that might be explored by the soilless gardener. Probably not viable at this point, as reducing peripheral supplements and additives presntly might lbe a route to explore.

We would still, perhaps, evaluate how `wet` the media might be at the center and bottom of the container. If a sample of roots and media were dug out of the container, would they be `wet`, or saturated?

Reducing fertlilization to a single base solution might be a logical step pursue, to determine if that simple approach might stabilize your regime.

Foliar feeding at roughly 250 ppm, or less, might be rewarding. Different elements might be absorbed by leaves differently, which might be explored by the soilless gardener. Ideally, folair spray might be adjusted to a more base, or slightly alkaline pH (6.5 - 7.0) - though gardeners have used 6.0 - 6.5 successfully. Perhaps slighltly after the sun rises (perhaps an hour), after stomata open. Ideally, air flow should dry out leaf surfaces within 5 minutes. Have you tried foliar with F+? The plus vesrion really only might require 2 or 3 drops per 1 liter spray bottle.

An potential experiment might be to try a test specimen using drain-to-waste, watered once per day regardless of perceived moisture in the media, until run-off, with the same media and nutrients, to determine if the same or similar `deficiencies` occur.

What is your RH?

Best,
/SRGB/

 

[bobblehead]

I`ve got a problem with foliar spraying indoors due to residual salt buildup on the leaves that clog said stomatas , but once a week seems tolerable as long as the plants stay in optimum RH levels through end of stretch......but....

Dave`s RH sucks balls , and repeated foliars will guaranteed over time make a coating over the leaves if shit dries out too fast , and then proper transpiration is affected.....now....

I haveta question nutrient uptake in the rootzone only being 10% in plant growth with the remaining 90% going where ?...to be sweat out through the leaves and not used by the plants ?.....

I fully understand the benefits of foliar spraying since there`s waaaay more surface area for nutrients to be absorbed/used and converted compared to the rootmass pulling from what`s bein fed at X intervals depending on container , AND plant size to be determined by each growers limitations in said grow area....anyways.....

Foliars work better with outdoor big plants due to constant day/night temp differentials that produce "morning dew" from condensation , so the leaves can stay clean to provide proper transpiration when nutrient uptake is paramount during swellage in late bloomage......but.......

In low RH environments that`re dialed like GettoGrower`s fogger type setup to keep plants in the 70% range till end of stretch , I`m sure that foliar spraying could be beneficial without worrying about stomata getting clogged up from chem nute salt buildup and slowing proper transpiration , that would guaranteed cause ph to drop and ppms to soar at some point in the game.....regardless....

Never had ta foliar my plants in Hell , but I can say that in lower RH environments if it helps , then by all means do what works.....

Just keep the leaves sprayed off with straight H20 if runnin indoors after foliars to keep said leaves sweatin out residuals NOT used as in that 90% Bobbles is talkin bout FTW.....

Peace.....Freds...........

Foliar feeding is an effective method for correcting deficiencies and overcoming the soil’s inability to transfer nutrients to the plant. Availability of essential nutrients and trace minerals from the soil may be limited at times by root distribution, soil temperature, soil moisture, nutrient imbalances and other factors. Foliar feeding can help maintain a nutrient balance within the plant, which may not occur strictly with soil uptake.

A project conducted at Michigan State University, using radioactive tagged nutrients, proved that foliar feeding can be 8 to 10 times more effective than soil feeding. Foliar feeding stimulates an increase in chlorophyll production, cellular activity and respiration. It also triggers a plant response that increases water and nutrient uptake from the soil.

According to Iowa State University research; “Because plants can absorb nutrients through their leaves, spraying fertilizer nutrients on the plants can prevent nutrient depletion, keep leaves more active in carrying on photosynthesis, and increase seed yields. But, excess amounts of fertilizer can injure or “burn” the leaves. So it is essential that the proper kinds and amounts of fertilizer solutions be sprayed on the plants at the proper times.” The effectiveness of foliar applied nutrients is determined by the type of formulation and yield increases of 5-10% or more can be achieved when using the right product at the right time.

Read the whole page:

http://www.unitedstatesag.org/foliar_feeding.html

 

[high life 45]

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=23357 EPIC READ. Makes me want to use bio buckets

LOL im pretty sure D9 started developing the ppk after messing with bio buckets.. Keep pluggin along. I didnt have my first 100% problem free crop unitl an entire year of ppkn. It still has been much easier, and 1000's% cheaper for me than any other method of growing I have tried.

plants are looking nicer thanks to the epsoms.

I often add epsoms to jacks where as d9 never has...every environment is different, its pretty common with our favorite lil plant.


ps WTF is it with crocs and stupid people sleeping with them? Dont you people know they are classified under the category of "bitey bitey"?

If you look at that guys left hand it seems his thumb may have been "bitey bitey'd" off..

 

[bobblehead]

 

[bobblehead]

If you look at that guys left hand it seems his thumb may have been "bitey bitey'd" off..
View Image

You guys are a bunch of pussies! This man had a 15' gator for a friend! Yeah he lost a thumb... but he was the guy that went swimming with a gator for fun, and lived to tell about it. GLORIOUS! He's just some poor guy down in Costa Rica, and now he's known around the world because he was crazy enough to get in the water with a gator. Fuck a thumb. It was his left one anyway.

 

[DaveTheNewbie]

Shit Photo Sunday and other fun

Shit Photo Sunday and other fun

5 weeks down, 3 to go :

1 week down, 7 to go :

1 week vegging, not very happy looking :

day 6 PH measurements

1) one glass gets a dose of GH MaxiGrow : PH 5.9 => 6.2 =>5.8 => 6.0 => 6.5 => 6.8
2) one glass gets a dose of Budlink silica : PH 8.9 => 8.4 => 8.4 => 8.2 => 8.0 => 7.8
3) one glass gets a dose of GH CaMg+ : PH 5.8 => 6.4 => 6.4 => 6.8 => 7.6 => 7.6
4) one glass gets a dose of GH Floralicious+ : PH 6.5 => 7.3 => 7.4 => 7.4 => 7.7 => 7.7
5) one glass of "pure RO water" from my system (PPM 193) : PH 7.1 => 7.4 => 7.8 => 7.8

Obviously i have something in the water that causes PH to rise significantly over the first 24 hours, but also on day 5. Its the rise on day 5 thats got me fucked. No change of nutes is going to stop that.

Ive ditched all this fucking about with nutes and im going back to what i used to use that worked. Plain ole MaxiBloom. Ditched the epsoms, the CaMg+, the MaxiGrow.

So its Maxibloom, silica, and a little floralicious +

Ive done foliar for years, but as a supplimental to root feeding. Ive never seen a plant grown without root feeding. Either way its the water that has a problem that i cant get my head around.

How did you determine a `P` deficiency? The base Maxi series might contain adequate `P` in either the grow or bloom formulas.

I have "rusty" leaves with brown spotting on them. Its either P or Moly. Maxigrow has very little P in it so i figure its that. Plus i know nothing about moly so im just ignoring that option. Again it doesnt really matter as im moving back to my old maxibloom which fixes everything.

 

[Purple turtle]

I have "rusty" leaves with brown spotting on them. Its either P or Moly. Maxigrow has very little P in it so i figure its that. Plus i know nothing about moly so im just ignoring that option. Again it doesnt really matter as im moving back to my old maxibloom which fixes everything.[/QUOTE]

sounda like its been a rat race up and down the ph scale hoping you sort things out and find sumin that works for you in your situation!,it sucks messing around with juice all the time!
Ozi Magic Gro Juice(is similar to a 2-part nute i use)raw salt of the highest quality!!check it out, i was browing some aussie online shops,(another one thats looks good is nutriflo,but you only get it in a.u!

Two part full spectrum hydroponic powder nutrient. A special for the technocrat make your own two part stock nutrient solutions, just add water. Then use 5mls of A and 5mls of B of stock solution per litre of water to make your working nutrient solution.

Made from the purest raw materials & fully chelated trace elements. Ozi Magic Powder Nutrients are the base for many Hydroponic Shop "in house brands". Don't pay for water, use your own and save money. Easy to transport and very cost effective.

OZI MAGIC fertilising crops & bank accounts.

 

[SecondAttempt]

Deficiencies or not that plant at 5 weeks looks heavier than anything I have at 8 weeks... Looks like you are gonna get to smoke something.

 

[DaveTheNewbie]

Ozi Magic Gro Juice(is similar to a 2-part nute i use)raw salt of the highest quality!!check it out, i was browing some aussie online shops,(another one thats looks good is nutriflo,but you only get it in a.u!

Two part full spectrum hydroponic powder nutrient. A special for the technocrat make your own two part stock nutrient solutions, just add water. Then use 5mls of A and 5mls of B of stock solution per litre of water to make your working nutrient solution.

Made from the purest raw materials & fully chelated trace elements. Ozi Magic Powder Nutrients are the base for many Hydroponic Shop "in house brands". Don't pay for water, use your own and save money. Easy to transport and very cost effective.

OZI MAGIC fertilising crops & bank accounts.

i cant find anything useful about these nutes altho i see them in the shops alot. But im not keen on buying a product if i cant find the NPK or see any grow logs or whatever. I KNOW maxibloom works

 

[DHF]

Foliar feeding is an effective method for correcting deficiencies and overcoming the soil’s inability to transfer nutrients to the plant. Availability of essential nutrients and trace minerals from the soil may be limited at times by root distribution, soil temperature, soil moisture, nutrient imbalances and other factors. Foliar feeding can help maintain a nutrient balance within the plant, which may not occur strictly with soil uptake.

A project conducted at Michigan State University, using radioactive tagged nutrients, proved that foliar feeding can be 8 to 10 times more effective than soil feeding. Foliar feeding stimulates an increase in chlorophyll production, cellular activity and respiration. It also triggers a plant response that increases water and nutrient uptake from the soil.

According to Iowa State University research; “Because plants can absorb nutrients through their leaves, spraying fertilizer nutrients on the plants can prevent nutrient depletion, keep leaves more active in carrying on photosynthesis, and increase seed yields. But, excess amounts of fertilizer can injure or “burn” the leaves. So it is essential that the proper kinds and amounts of fertilizer solutions be sprayed on the plants at the proper times.” The effectiveness of foliar applied nutrients is determined by the type of formulation and yield increases of 5-10% or more can be achieved when using the right product at the right time.

Read the whole page:

http://www.unitedstatesag.org/foliar_feeding.html

Bro.....I love your knowledge gathering abilities , and fully respect everything you bring to the table , and beyond a shadow of a doubt foliars of Cal and Mag have been time tested and proven with dope cultivars "inside" to bring shit back into acceptable parameters , and allow proper nutrient uptake to resume as long as ph don`t go sideways in the process......but....

I`m just not so sure about university studies on soli grown plants has a whole lot ta do with "soilless" setups that get fed more frequently with considerably lower ppm concentrations , but I`m still on board with what you`re screamin cuz I know you and if yas didn`t see results from the foliar spraying your doin , that shit`d be dropped like a hot tater , and......

I think the happy medium of once a week applications can`t hurt a damn thing as long as clawin and burnt leaf tips don`t show up , and all I was sayin was bout foliar bein 90% more effective than rootzone feed was how can that be......so....

Now I see where this comes from....Dave.....It`s always somethin with new setups and the learnin curve that ensues till dialage occurs , so just roll with the punches and guaranteed you`ll figure this shit out with the right juice ta use for bottom line results....

Sativa dominant strains are the most finicky , shut the fuck down on yas and croak plants with increased ppms that ever was on this earth , and since that`s mostly whatchas have access to in OZ it`s something to be dealt with......although....

Your plant`s leaves look more "hybrid-ish" to me than sativa-zilla skinny ass 12+ finger leaves of my yester year outdoor activities but anyways.....

Always pullin for yas Dave......Good luck , and hey Bobbles....That guy with the gator`s a fuckin idiot............

Down here that shit`s good for purses , shoes/boots , belts , and some of the most scrumptious beer battered fried gator tail bites that`ll make yas slap granny......

Only good gator`s a dead un round my parts.....trust me....they fuck like rabbits/lay eggs and yas can`t keep em from comin back , so win/win sustainable critter farmin like pigs , cows , and chickens IMHO.....anyways.....back to our regularly scheduled program......

Peace....Freds..........

 

[bobblehead]

I think its a little late to start with the foliar feeds now... Maybe 1 right away... But they should be done more so during veg and stretch, and then the plant can feed off what it has stored the last few weeks.

Foliar feeding imo is a must in organic gardening... But it also has its applications in hydroponics. B/c the nutes are chilated, they don't have to be broken down by bacteria and fungi before being made available to the plant. Roots or leaves. That's the biggest difference between organic vs. synthetic. Plant physiology remains the same. Don't be scurred.

 

[SRGB]

DaveTheNewbie:

I have "rusty" leaves with brown spotting on them. Its either P or Moly. Maxigrow has very little P in it so i figure its that. Plus i know nothing about moly so im just ignoring that option. Again it doesnt really matter as im moving back to my old maxibloom which fixes everything.

Hi, DaveTheNewbie.

Your continued efforts to reach stability in your garden should lead you to that state.

Best,
/SRGB/

 

[disciple]

 

[DaveTheNewbie]

Dave,

did u every get the $5 pH drop test kit?

it looks like your meters fucked. when they go they will read closer to 7 more often than not. the trick is they calibrate fine (or so you think) but are useless.

in THIS post the drop kit is discussed.

your recent sick clone picks look like they're caused by hot nutes. really hard to believe there is something so basic in your water that it's pushing nuted solution pH up to those levels.

also, once the plants get bigger I'm guessing everything kind of sorts itself out. That is what happens when your nutes are too hot for young cuts... once the plant gets big enough it can take the high ec and everything starts looking healthy.

if you haven't double checked what you see on your meter vs. the pH drops/test kit... it wouldn't surprise me at all if you do compare and find your REAL pH to be much lower than you think.

in which case the mystery is solved, you can back off the EC for the small clones and everything will rapidly improve in yer garden

peace

I got the test drops. The PH pen is fine. Drops confirm pen results.

Current theory is that Chlorine is evaporating in the first 24 hours causing the first spike, and Chloramine is evaporating at the ~5 day mark causing the second spike.

 

[DaveTheNewbie]

shit photo sunday

shit photo sunday

2/4 weeks veg

2/8 weeks flower

6/8 weeks flower

and alls well for a change. the babies are smaller than they should be, and the 6 weekers should be fuller, but thats all cause of nute fuckups in the past.

 

[DamnUglyDogE]

Could your tent be off gassing ?

Been reading up one this and IDK... lol
Just tossing it out there and by no means am I saying it is... Just...

Kinda fits the description and pictures ive been looking at... ?

Liking the 2 in the last PIC... Looking like smoker to me bro...

Always likes me a good come back...

Peace...

 

[DaveTheNewbie]

nope not the tent.
ive had it for maybe 18 months and had some really good runs in it.

 

[DaveTheNewbie]

THIS IS GIVING ME THE SHITS

THIS IS GIVING ME THE SHITS

I must be the unluckiest PPKer out there.

the second round of plants, started with the extra fat tailpipes, has flooded at 2.5 weeks of flower.

it doesnt "feel" like it was the tailpipe blocking as much as the whole pot being rootbound and failing to drain fast enough. There was no trouble getting the plant out of the pot, and very few perlite pieces fell from the rootmass. The tailpipe wasnt hard to break off at all, like when it was blocked with the small ones before.

fucked if i know what im supposed to do at this point.

at this point ill take any advice or opinions before i chuck it all and go back to a pot in pot system like in the old days.

 

[bobblehead]

Organic peat has been treating me well. I'm about to pull the my best crop to date, highest weight, highest quality, and biggest buds. Of course my room is also completely sealed...

You'll figure out what works for you. Its not always what works for everyone else.