Must be genetics…

[NoiseCTRL]

Hi Breeders!
In my nursery i have this young plant with big wrinkly and curved leaves, while all other plants are in a fairly good shape. My temps in there are 20°min 24° max with humidity around 70%. I've tried both raising and lowering the temps and humidity, still the same. My feeding solutions ph is 5,8-6, i can't measure the soil ph at the momenty, but i'm sure it's good. At this point i'm thinking it must be genetics or some bacteria or virus infected it (?). Any of you guys has some opinion to share? Thaks

 

[Hammerhead]

Not all issues like this are bad. It depends on what they look like. Any Pictures of the leaves?

 

[NoiseCTRL]

Stupid me forgot to attach the pic

 

[NoiseCTRL]

Not all issues like this are bad. It depends on what they look like. Any Pictures of the leaves?

Stupid me forgot to attach the pic, as you can see all other plants are good

 

[Hammerhead]

That doesn't look like anything super bad to me. It could be a range of issues like your Humidity or Temps. Is your medium precharged? Could be your medium is too nutrient rich. You could alternate 1 or 2 plain water/ro only. Give a proper wet/dry cycle. I think it will correct itself. If you can measure your medium's PPM and PH from the runoff it will help where to start fixing.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Hi Breeders!
In my nursery i have this young plant with big wrinkly and curved leaves, while all other plants are in a fairly good shape. My temps in there are 20°min 24° max with humidity around 70%. I've tried both raising and lowering the temps and humidity, still the same. My feeding solutions ph is 5,8-6, i can't measure the soil ph at the momenty, but i'm sure it's good. At this point i'm thinking it must be genetics or some bacteria or virus infected it (?). Any of you guys has some opinion to share? Thaks

On first glance, I would say a low pH is locking out mobile nutrients, and what it's using most of at this phase of the plant's growth, nitrogen and magnesium.

I would have to know more about:

- medium (brand, additives, etc.)
- nutrient solution (pH, PPM or EC)
- water (pH, PPM or EC, carbonate hardness if it is known - basically the water's buffering capacity)

However, considering the rest of the plants are (still) unaffected, it is most likely a low pH.

Alternatively:

- You should also check for mites. Some potential insect damage on the lower right fanleaf.
- I would tape off the opening for the electrical cable. I don't know what kind of dust could be collecting behind that wall/panel. And I'd clean that tray. Outdoor it wouldn't matter at all, however indoors everything matters. Great paneling though, very easy to keep clean and dustfree.

 

[NoiseCTRL]

On first glance, I would say a low pH is locking out mobile nutrients, at this phase of the plant's growth nitrogen and magnesium.

I would have to know more about:

- medium (brand, additives, etc.)
- nutrient solution (pH, PPM or EC)
- water (pH, PPM or EC, carbonate hardness if it is known - basically the water's buffering capacity)

However, considering the rest of the plants are (still) unaffected, and

Alternatively:

- You should also check for mites. Some potential insect damage on the lower right fanleaf.
- I would tape off the opening for the electrical cable. I don't know what kind of dust could be collecting behind that wall/panel. And I'd clean that tray. Outdoor it wouldn't matter at all, however indoors everything matters. Great paneling though, very to keep clean and dustfree.

On first glance, I would say a low pH is locking out mobile nutrients, and what it's using most of at this phase of the plant's growth, nitrogen and magnesium.

I would have to know more about:

- medium (brand, additives, etc.)
- nutrient solution (pH, PPM or EC)
- water (pH, PPM or EC, carbonate hardness if it is known - basically the water's buffering capacity)

However, considering the rest of the plants are (still) unaffected, it is most likely a low pH.

Alternatively:

- You should also check for mites. Some potential insect damage on the lower right fanleaf.
- I would tape off the opening for the electrical cable. I don't know what kind of dust could be collecting behind that wall/panel. And I'd clean that tray. Outdoor it wouldn't matter at all, however indoors everything matters. Great paneling though, very easy to keep clean and dustfree.

I have grown so many plants in this space that's why i am confused about this one, but i'll check carefully for the issues you've pointed out, and these are the details:
Medium: Biobizz light mix
Nutrient solution: PH 5.9-6.3 EC 0.7-1.0
Water: PH 7.4 EC 0.2
About the water: I have just bought a reverse osmosis system, i'll update on the values if you want, another thing about thia plant is that the leaves feel thick and dry at touch

 

[Loc Dog]

Is it soil or coco??

https://www.420magazine.com/gallery/data/500/Nutrient_Chart2.gif

 

[troutman]

Fast changes in humidity causes weird leaves.

 

[El Timbo]

As you said it could well be genetics and it will grow out of it.

 

[Creeperpark]

Don't try to fix it or add anything at this point. I have seen this a thousand times and it is due to excess nutrient exposure. When the plant's roots hit a hot spot so to speak the leaves will crinkle. Its not a problem at all, just be patient and watch it take off into veg. like crazy. You have no problems at this time. Keep us posted friend.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I have grown so many plants in this space that's why i am confused about this one, but i'll check carefully for the issues you've pointed out, and these are the details:
Medium: Biobizz light mix
Nutrient solution: PH 5.9-6.3 EC 0.7-1.0
Water: PH 7.4 EC 0.2
About the water: I have just bought a reverse osmosis system, i'll update on the values if you want, another thing about thia plant is that the leaves feel thick and dry at touch

First thing to do is:

Raise the pH of your nutrients to 7.0 and the magnesium lockout/deficiency will disappear.

If you're going to transplant, at least add 2 tablespoons per gallon of magnesium lime to the new mix, and pH the nutrients to the pH of the soil, 7.0.

- The EC of the water is already pretty low.

With the caveat of not knowing what that EC consists of - sodium and chloride instead of calcium and magnesium - you might not need R/O. 0.2 EC is pretty soft water. Mine is 0.5 out of the tap, 0.4 if the chloride evaporates, which also brings the pH down from 8.0 nearer to 7.0.

R/O water needs remineralisation with the right ratio of calcium and magnesium, and micronutrients.

- Light Mix

This goes out to everyone who uses Light Mix too - it is not a complete medium. It doesn't have a good buffering capacity, or buffer to the right pH for organic growing.

I do use it as a base for Supersoil.

Equal parts: light mix, worm castings and perlite. Add 2 tablespoons of magnesium lime per gallon of base mix. Water it thoroughly and let it sit for at least a week. Always clean the perlite by putting it in a tub of warm water for 10 minutes and then scooping up everythingthat floats. This filters out the dust which turns the mix into cement over time.

For the fertilized part, I use 2/3 of the base mix, and add 2 tablespoons per gallon whichever is available of:

N: bloodmeal, feathermeal or high Nitrogen bat guano
P: bonemeal, rockphosphate,
K: woodash, vinasse
Mg: magnesium lime, epsom salt
Ca: already in the bonemeal, rock phosphate, magnesium lime
S: already in the vinasse, epsom salt
Si: seaweed
Trace Elements: seaweed, lavameal, basaltmeal
Terpenes: herbs like wild chervil, etc.

Add another 20% by volume of perlite to the supersoil mix, because these are very fine particles that need aeration and to be made lighter in weight. That needs be soaked thoroughly and then mellow out for at least a month.

The tub has either a water reservoir, or is layered

base mix
supersoil mix
grow rocks for drainage
(water reservoir)

The seed is sown in the base mix, or the clone is planted with at least 1 cm of base mix between it and the supersoil. Never transplant a clone into hot soil.

--

An alternative to Supersoil that I'm moving toward more and more is compost.

I don't have a compost pile, however using Bio-Kultura compost, mixed with 1/3 buckwheat hulls for aeration reducing weight (and overall price). And add 1 tablespoon per gallon of bentonite clay, to raise the pH, increase paramagnetism and increase nutrient retention in the mix.

--

I spray with a fermentation of sprouted hempseed microgreens, honey, water and some additional seeds. For soil I use fermentation of wormcastings, honey, water and some additional seeds.

 

[St. Phatty]

Among other things, every plant cell is sort of like an electric circuit.

and all those nutrient ions are pieces of batteries.

When they get combined in the right way, magic happens.

When they get combined in the wrong way, magic doesn't happen.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Among other things, every plant cell is sort of like an electric circuit.

and all those nutrient ions are pieces of batteries.

When they get combined in the right way, magic happens.

When they get combined in the wrong way, magic doesn't happen.

Nowadays I put water and nutrients in a round tin can with 3 strong magnets, on the south facing part of the can. I stir the nutrients with a wooden/bamboo stick, counterclockwise, which is the direction of the solar system. Until the water speeds up a little and becomes more viscous.

The effect is that water penetrates the soil more easily, and that watering doesn't shock the plants. It is almost as good as rainwater.

Electromagnetism is a much neglected area of plant growth.

 

[NoiseCTRL]

UPDATE
After trimming off a few branches and areating the soil a little bit, the plant recovered and now those thick leaves are no more. I still don't think it was stress but i'll check the development of this strain

 

[NoiseCTRL]

First thing to do is:

Raise the pH of your nutrients to 7.0 and the magnesium lockout/deficiency will disappear.

If you're going to transplant, at least add 2 tablespoons per gallon of magnesium lime to the new mix, and pH the nutrients to the pH of the soil, 7.0.

- The EC of the water is already pretty low.

With the caveat of not knowing what that EC consists of - sodium and chloride instead of calcium and magnesium - you might not need R/O. 0.2 EC is pretty soft water. Mine is 0.5 out of the tap, 0.4 if the chloride evaporates, which also brings the pH down from 8.0 nearer to 7.0.

R/O water needs remineralisation with the right ratio of calcium and magnesium, and micronutrients.

- Light Mix

This goes out to everyone who uses Light Mix too - it is not a complete medium. It doesn't have a good buffering capacity, or buffer to the right pH for organic growing.

I do use it as a base for Supersoil.

Equal parts: light mix, worm castings and perlite. Add 2 tablespoons of magnesium lime per gallon of base mix. Water it thoroughly and let it sit for at least a week. Always clean the perlite by putting it in a tub of warm water for 10 minutes and then scooping up everythingthat floats. This filters out the dust which turns the mix into cement over time.

For the fertilized part, I use 2/3 of the base mix, and add 2 tablespoons per gallon whichever is available of:

N: bloodmeal, feathermeal or high Nitrogen bat guano
P: bonemeal, rockphosphate,
K: woodash, vinasse
Mg: magnesium lime, epsom salt
Ca: already in the bonemeal, rock phosphate, magnesium lime
S: already in the vinasse, epsom salt
Si: seaweed
Trace Elements: seaweed, lavameal, basaltmeal
Terpenes: herbs like wild chervil, etc.

Add another 20% by volume of perlite to the supersoil mix, because these are very fine particles that need aeration and to be made lighter in weight. That needs be soaked thoroughly and then mellow out for at least a month.

The tub has either a water reservoir, or is layered

base mix
supersoil mix
grow rocks for drainage
(water reservoir)

The seed is sown in the base mix, or the clone is planted with at least 1 cm of base mix between it and the supersoil. Never transplant a clone into hot soil.

--

An alternative to Supersoil that I'm moving toward more and more is compost.

I don't have a compost pile, however using Bio-Kultura compost, mixed with 1/3 buckwheat hulls for aeration reducing weight (and overall price). And add 1 tablespoon per gallon of bentonite clay, to raise the pH, increase paramagnetism and increase nutrient retention in the mix.

--

I spray with a fermentation of sprouted hempseed microgreens, honey, water and some additional seeds. For soil I use fermentation of wormcastings, honey, water and some additional seeds.

I love your setup, tho i have not much space nor the chance to buy and bring soil in and out and working it, i'm just going full hydro with some soil experiments. DOo you think a RO system would be overkill with my tap water 0.2 EC value?

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I love your setup, tho i have not much space nor the chance to buy and bring soil in and out and working it, i'm just going full hydro with some soil experiments. DOo you think a RO system would be overkill with my tap water 0.2 EC value?

Thanks.

- 0.2 EC is not that high.

What is more important is that the medium buffers to the desired pH or 7.0 for organic soil, and that the nutrients are the same as the pH of the medium. That way they don't challenge the soil's buffering capacity, and you don't have to worry about pH or pH swings during the grow.

- It really depends on what the 0.2 EC consists of. If it's calcium and magnesium then it's not a problem. If it's sodium and chloride it could be.

- If you let the water stand next to the plants for a day, chloride will evaporate and this itself will lower the pH and EC.

You should check how doing that effects the water.

 

[NoiseCTRL]

Thanks.

- 0.2 EC is not that high.

What is more important is that the medium buffers to the desired pH or 7.0 for organic soil, and that the nutrients are the same as the pH of the medium. That way they don't challenge the soil's buffering capacity, and you don't have to worry about pH or pH swings during the grow.

- It really depends on what the 0.2 EC consists of. If it's calcium and magnesium then it's not a problem. If it's sodium and chloride it could be.

- If you let the water stand next to the plants for a day, chloride will evaporate and this itself will lower the pH and EC.

You should check how doing that effects the water.

I'll definitely do it and update you. I'll see if i can find a reading of the water from my town council. I live on the hills near to a natural spring and locals always said how good is the water up here, and maybe a RO is overkill, but i don't mind reintegrating (right word?) the water with nutrients with macro and micro elements.

 

[NEED 4 SEED]

Did you do a pesticide treatment before the crinkling appeared? I had similar damage and I believe now it could have come from using double dosed pyrethrine and letting them back under the light too soon. They definitely need at least two days under very low light intensity after treatment with the higher dosing I've been using.

 

[NoiseCTRL]

Did you do a pesticide treatment before the crinkling appeared? I had similar damage and I believe now it could have come from using double dosed pyrethrine and letting them back under the light too soon. They definitely need at least two days under very low light intensity after treatment with the higher dosing I've been using.

I just sprayed the plant from day 15 with a light mix of neem oil and organic soap