Mini split
- Thread starter Hydropimp
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Y
yamaha_1fan
I think so. I think the rule is 3500-4000 BTU for every 1,000 watts. I have 24K BTU cooling 3KW uncooled and 6KW cooled
pro engineer
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Mini split
Hydropimp
I use a 24.000 BTU (2ton) cool only mini split to cool my room. I have 4000watts of HID lighting plus about 800 watts of T-5 lighting. My HID ballasts are in a remote room. You should have no problem with 2 tons of AC. Just watch out for very cheap units. Also look for one with a high SEER my is 19.0.
PE
Hydropimp
I use a 24.000 BTU (2ton) cool only mini split to cool my room. I have 4000watts of HID lighting plus about 800 watts of T-5 lighting. My HID ballasts are in a remote room. You should have no problem with 2 tons of AC. Just watch out for very cheap units. Also look for one with a high SEER my is 19.0.
PE
pro engineer
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Mini split
Hydropimp
My HID lighting are also forced air cooled from an outside source
Hydropimp
My HID lighting are also forced air cooled from an outside source
pro engineer
Member
hydropimp
I.m use a 2-ton friedrich cool only unit SEER 18.0. Its really a Fujitsu unit that was been relabeled. Never install without pulling a complete vacuum on the system!!!!!!
If you do not evacuate the moisture from the system/ piping you will destroy the unit!!!!
Also use only heavy type flare nuts and never braze any copper tubing on these systems!!!
These systems use R-410-A refrigerant under very high pressure use gloves and safety glasses!!!!
They come from factory precharged with refrigerant. Always check for leaks.
You will also need a special fitting to hook your gauges to the condenser. Buy it at john stone supply.
You also must use gauges that are rated for use on R-410-A refrigerant.
I got mine from www.earthstores/hvacdistribution.com
Item # M24CF $1549.95 delivered
PE
I.m use a 2-ton friedrich cool only unit SEER 18.0. Its really a Fujitsu unit that was been relabeled. Never install without pulling a complete vacuum on the system!!!!!!
If you do not evacuate the moisture from the system/ piping you will destroy the unit!!!!
Also use only heavy type flare nuts and never braze any copper tubing on these systems!!!
These systems use R-410-A refrigerant under very high pressure use gloves and safety glasses!!!!
They come from factory precharged with refrigerant. Always check for leaks.
You will also need a special fitting to hook your gauges to the condenser. Buy it at john stone supply.
You also must use gauges that are rated for use on R-410-A refrigerant.
I got mine from www.earthstores/hvacdistribution.com
Item # M24CF $1549.95 delivered
PE
pro engineer
Member
hydropimp
Other brands I have used.
Friedrich/Fujitsu
Sanyo
Mitsubishi Mr. Slim
LG
They all made in China these days probably the same factory.
Just look for ones that have the longest warranty 5 years on the compressor & 1 years on parts. The ones named above should last 7-10 years. If and when they start giving you trouble there really not worth fixing. There aren't many techs that know how to repair them in north America. My install took about 4 hours. Good luck on yours....
PE
Other brands I have used.
Friedrich/Fujitsu
Sanyo
Mitsubishi Mr. Slim
LG
They all made in China these days probably the same factory.
Just look for ones that have the longest warranty 5 years on the compressor & 1 years on parts. The ones named above should last 7-10 years. If and when they start giving you trouble there really not worth fixing. There aren't many techs that know how to repair them in north America. My install took about 4 hours. Good luck on yours....
PE
Pro I was looking at a freidrich but they warrenty is only for people who have a tech install it on the website I was looking at.
I know how to connect the electrical part of it I am going to have to buy the guages to do the connection but doesn't seem difficult.
As long as I can get 3 grows a year I don't care if I have to replace it yearly
I know how to connect the electrical part of it I am going to have to buy the guages to do the connection but doesn't seem difficult.
As long as I can get 3 grows a year I don't care if I have to replace it yearly
pro engineer
Member
Hydropimp
I install mine my self I have all the tools needed. Just fill out the warranty card and send it in. This is when your warranty starts. As far as the manufacturer is concern the installer could have gone out of business.
PE
I install mine my self I have all the tools needed. Just fill out the warranty card and send it in. This is when your warranty starts. As far as the manufacturer is concern the installer could have gone out of business.
PE
pro engineer
Member
Hydropimp
Just install it correctly. If the compressor fails during the first year the manufacturer will have there service tech test for moisture. If they find it bye bye warranty.
PE
Just install it correctly. If the compressor fails during the first year the manufacturer will have there service tech test for moisture. If they find it bye bye warranty.
PE
Pro how much noise does that thing make?
Yeah right under yours is the one I want to get the 2.5 ton a/c. I want it to be as cold as possible because I will have two system running. 12 blazeone up buckets and 12 ebb and grow buckets to see which one is better of the both and keep running it in both rooms. I have money for a chiller but hopefully the room will be cold enogh.
Did you have to buy the installation kit separet?
Hopefully when I get it if I have any problems can you give me some guidence?
Yeah right under yours is the one I want to get the 2.5 ton a/c. I want it to be as cold as possible because I will have two system running. 12 blazeone up buckets and 12 ebb and grow buckets to see which one is better of the both and keep running it in both rooms. I have money for a chiller but hopefully the room will be cold enogh.
Did you have to buy the installation kit separet?
Hopefully when I get it if I have any problems can you give me some guidence?
pro engineer
Member
Hydropimp
The outside unit (condenser) is very quite, In fact its quieter then my new 5 ton home unit I put in the same time. The inside unit (evaporator) has 4 speeds low,medium,high and quite mode. I keep mine on high. You will need a line set its the suction & liquid copper tubing that hooks between the units. You also may need a bracket kit to hang the outside unit. The suppler listed above has every thing you need. Oh you may also need a condensate pump if you can run the condensate waste to a gravity drain. Don't set the outside unit on bare ground. What I like the most about mini systems the high SEER and with a in line power relay & controller you can control night & day temperature.
PE
The outside unit (condenser) is very quite, In fact its quieter then my new 5 ton home unit I put in the same time. The inside unit (evaporator) has 4 speeds low,medium,high and quite mode. I keep mine on high. You will need a line set its the suction & liquid copper tubing that hooks between the units. You also may need a bracket kit to hang the outside unit. The suppler listed above has every thing you need. Oh you may also need a condensate pump if you can run the condensate waste to a gravity drain. Don't set the outside unit on bare ground. What I like the most about mini systems the high SEER and with a in line power relay & controller you can control night & day temperature.
PE
pro engineer
Member
3 tons!! you can cool a whole house with that. Price sounds good, is it used?
pro engineer
Member
SEER EXPLAINED
SEER stands for (seasonal energy efficiency ratio). This is a measure of the energy efficiency of the AC system. SEER rating permit consumers to compare operating costs of various cooling systems.
SEER= ( Total Cooling Output Over the Cooling Season) / ( Total Electrical Energy Input Over the Cooling Season)
Higher AC SEER rating means more efficient, or in other words lower energy cost to cool the building. Older AC systems are likely to have a lower SEER (perhaps 5 or 6) than a newer more efficient system (perhaps SEER 10). But beyond comparing SEER ratings, a look at the building insulation, air leakage, and the layout, and adequacy of the AC duct system are likely to have a very large, usually determining effect, on operating cost of the AC system in the building.
How much energy does an AC system use?
How to calculate energy usage using an AC's SEER rating.
A concise way to translate SEER number directly into energy cost is SEER 10=10 BTU's/WattHour. In other words, an AC that has a SEER rating of 10 will provide 10 BTU,s of cooling per WattHour (Wh) of operation. So if our AC has a SEER of 9, it is less efficient then an AC unit with a SEER of 10 because our SEER 9 AC produces 9 BTU's of cooling for the same (Wh) of operation. That is, we've kept the energy consumption (one Wh) the same, but we got less cooling output.
PE
SEER stands for (seasonal energy efficiency ratio). This is a measure of the energy efficiency of the AC system. SEER rating permit consumers to compare operating costs of various cooling systems.
SEER= ( Total Cooling Output Over the Cooling Season) / ( Total Electrical Energy Input Over the Cooling Season)
Higher AC SEER rating means more efficient, or in other words lower energy cost to cool the building. Older AC systems are likely to have a lower SEER (perhaps 5 or 6) than a newer more efficient system (perhaps SEER 10). But beyond comparing SEER ratings, a look at the building insulation, air leakage, and the layout, and adequacy of the AC duct system are likely to have a very large, usually determining effect, on operating cost of the AC system in the building.
How much energy does an AC system use?
How to calculate energy usage using an AC's SEER rating.
A concise way to translate SEER number directly into energy cost is SEER 10=10 BTU's/WattHour. In other words, an AC that has a SEER rating of 10 will provide 10 BTU,s of cooling per WattHour (Wh) of operation. So if our AC has a SEER of 9, it is less efficient then an AC unit with a SEER of 10 because our SEER 9 AC produces 9 BTU's of cooling for the same (Wh) of operation. That is, we've kept the energy consumption (one Wh) the same, but we got less cooling output.
PE
Hydropimp said:
hydropimp, all i did was repost his link as it was backword's
i have never ran a mini split be for so i will not give any input im doing reasearch my self
i have ran window units.... and a 25,000 btu cooled a 12 x 25 with 8k NOT AIR COOLED but only when outside temps stayed under 95 once it got above that i had to start turning off light's 
i dont know what eer my unit was i no longer have it and looking into mini splits for my growroom and whole house....i found this in my research
EER, or the Energy Efficient Ratio, is a measure of how efficiently a cooling system will operate when the outdoor temperature is at a specific level - usually 95°F. EER is calculated as a simple ratio of BTU's to the amount of power a unit consumes in watts. Here is an example using an air conditioner with 12,000 BTU's and consuming 1500 watts of power:
EER = BTU's / Watts
12,000 / 1500 = 8
EER = 8
While it is true that the higher the EER and BTU's, the more efficient the cooling system, many consumers make the mistake of purchasing oversized portable air conditioners and ignoring EER ratings. The following is an example of an air conditioner with 12,000 BTU's and 1200 watts:
12,000 / 1200 = 10
EER =10
This would mean that this second unit can produce the same amount of cooling but more energy efficiently. Therefore, to save money on your monthly electric bill, choose a cooling system by getting an appropriately sized unit with a high EER.
it pretty close to what pro engineer just posted but a lil easyer to read.
pro engineer would we be better off running multi indoor units to one outside unit.? say like 4 9kbtu indoor units (3ton) i could put 3 (27btu) in the main flower room then 1 (9btu) in veg room. as to 1 24btu unit in flower room then buy a whole unit for veg 9btu..
on multi units eer seems to be low if i ran it this way would it fix the eer
2 12btu and a 7btu (24+7=31btu) on a 36kbtu outside unit?
the reason i ask is i have 6 rooms that i need a/c in ( 1200 sqft)
800 of it is living space ( 3 room's ) the other 3 rooms ( 400sqft ) is grow space (2 rooms with 8k & 1 with 2k )
Pro nah it is not used it is about 1076.00 but plus the cooper and insulation on the pipe and wire that should come up to that or 1400.00 the most.
I figured go with more btu's less eer and better price I only plan on using it for a yr then getting a nice 4 zone Mr slim
I figured go with more btu's less eer and better price I only plan on using it for a yr then getting a nice 4 zone Mr slim
pro engineer
Member
All
Yes I would highly recommend using multi type systems (one condenser/one compressor) & (multiple evaporators) verse installing multiple single systems. Less wiring, fewer moving parts = less mechanical breakdowns. Fujitsu makes a great Duel, Tri, & Quad zoned mini split system. They are now using there new advance inverter compressor technology in these systems, that saves energy/money. Beware there NOT cheap to buy. There the Audi in the AC business.
PE
Yes I would highly recommend using multi type systems (one condenser/one compressor) & (multiple evaporators) verse installing multiple single systems. Less wiring, fewer moving parts = less mechanical breakdowns. Fujitsu makes a great Duel, Tri, & Quad zoned mini split system. They are now using there new advance inverter compressor technology in these systems, that saves energy/money. Beware there NOT cheap to buy. There the Audi in the AC business.
PE
