Cerathule
Well-known member
that's extremely complex, it can take up to a year for some non-powdered substances like horn scraps.
but usually months... over the course of a grow
Mg def or N def/senescence?
- Thread starter laszlokovacs
- Start date
but usually months... over the course of a grow
Take a small one and throw on some gypsum and then water in well. All that purple is a phosphorus deficiency. The plant is talking. Listen. Do we want all that purple? Not really. P is at the heart of the energy molecule. The plant is running out of energy regardless of N (the other part of the ATP) is missing. There are two levers, P and K. If K is high, you will see more purple as it increase against P. If the plant is all green, you have plenty of P and all the room in the world to push K til you start seeing racing stripes. The degree of racing stripedness required (haha) will depend on plant by plant and greatly exacerbated with wood fungus infections due to lack of a callus on their clone.
laszlokovacs
Well-known member
Thanks for chiming in slow! Glad you mentioned this because my plan for this weekend was already to buy a 40lb bag of gyspum at the feed store and split it up between the 12 plants. I really need the calcium but I also hoping the sulfur in the gypsum will help with the coming wetness/fungus/terps.
A couple days before I started this thread I topdressed all the each Plant with 1/3lb of guano 1-12-0 and 1lb of 3-4-4 organic granular fert and some lime. Also watered each plant with 1 tbsp/1 gallon of mor-bloom 0-10-10. I believe the plants have just now started to uptake these nutrients as last week they appeared more green. I can only see the plants for a couple hours a week so I will have a better idea in a few days as to how they are doing. I will be adding gypsum at the bare minimum but the Triple Super Phosphate may be necessary (it is taking forever to arrive though).
Could you clarify what you mean by racing stripes? Is it the purpling stripey lines combining with the green of the petioles or some sort of contrast between the veins of the leaf and the surrounding tissue?
These are all seed starts with the exception of one plant(the one closest to the camera) so I think luckily I have slightly more room for error due to taproot vigor but am not sure quite what to be looking for. Although this pic is from a week ago and taken midday as supposed to the others I've posted (mostly near sunset) It looks like they overall have started to become greener although some could and certainly should be greener. Would you agree? Still a ways to go however...
edit: Is this what you mean by racing stripe?
A couple days before I started this thread I topdressed all the each Plant with 1/3lb of guano 1-12-0 and 1lb of 3-4-4 organic granular fert and some lime. Also watered each plant with 1 tbsp/1 gallon of mor-bloom 0-10-10. I believe the plants have just now started to uptake these nutrients as last week they appeared more green. I can only see the plants for a couple hours a week so I will have a better idea in a few days as to how they are doing. I will be adding gypsum at the bare minimum but the Triple Super Phosphate may be necessary (it is taking forever to arrive though).
Could you clarify what you mean by racing stripes? Is it the purpling stripey lines combining with the green of the petioles or some sort of contrast between the veins of the leaf and the surrounding tissue?
These are all seed starts with the exception of one plant(the one closest to the camera) so I think luckily I have slightly more room for error due to taproot vigor but am not sure quite what to be looking for. Although this pic is from a week ago and taken midday as supposed to the others I've posted (mostly near sunset) It looks like they overall have started to become greener although some could and certainly should be greener. Would you agree? Still a ways to go however...
edit: Is this what you mean by racing stripe?
he's talking about purple stripes on the petioles, i'm guessing from the picture that shows the purple wilted bud in your post.
I've been trying to follow your numbers.
this is you talking from your thread on which numbers to use:
"Do your math based on having Ca being 85% using AA@8.2 and aiming for 2000 to 2500 ppm of Ca, which is 10 to 12.5 meq of Ca on your soil analysis (1 meq of Ca is 200.4 ppms of Ca). With that much calcium, we have excellent calcium levels with which to work and yet not too much that makes getting K response with manageable amounts of K."
how much gypsum? he has a 200 square foot plot of native soil with a density of 0.82
"some" gypsum is going to feel very different to a fellow with a 1# bag and another who just dropped $16 for 50#'s...
let's suppose he's planning to balance his micro nutrients with sulfate forms and his K with potassium sulfate, would you try to use gypsum exclusively to raise his calcium or would you be concerned about how high that would raise his sulfur #'s?
how much sulfur would be too much if his Ca was about 2000 ppms on the AA8.2 and K around 4-5% base saturation in your opinion?
laszlokovacs
Well-known member
Thanks man makes a lot more sense. Yeah i posted two pics of buds and they both have that purpling on the petioles. Somewhat widespread on about 1/2 the plants.
I topdressed around 3-3.5lbs gypsum around each plant and then gave each plant a gallon of water with 1tbsp/gal neptunes harvest rose and flowering and 1tbps/gal morbloom. I only have between 1.5-4ish weeks until every plant will absolutely be done. Theyre starting to put on a lot of weight/frost. Amazon couldnt deliver to the address I used but the TSP/K sulfate should finally be here this week- I'm wondering if I should still add it for this season... Even if I dont feed/water until harvest I'm definitely gonna have some OK buds- i just dont want to burn them or mess them up at the end and ruin the smoke.
