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Maxibloom needs A LOT of pH up?!

G

Guest 18340

AN liquid ph up/down is extremely concentrated. It literally takes 1 drop/gal compared to the 1/4 tsp/gal for GH. But it is so hard for me to get the amount of drops just right when I mix a big rez. One drop too many and it screws my mix.
 

Mr. Bongjangles

Head Brewer
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Veteran
AN liquid ph up/down is extremely concentrated. It literally takes 1 drop/gal compared to the 1/4 tsp/gal for GH. But it is so hard for me to get the amount of drops just right when I mix a big rez. One drop too many and it screws my mix.

Heh, we're using 1/4th a tsp of the GH dry for 5 gallons, not 1, tho its up to 1/2 with the Maxibloom.

The AN sounds nice and concentrated too though.
 

Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
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AN liquid ph up/down is extremely concentrated. It literally takes 1 drop/gal compared to the 1/4 tsp/gal for GH. But it is so hard for me to get the amount of drops just right when I mix a big rez. One drop too many and it screws my mix.

I had the same problem, I keep some plastic cups in the room, and fill them with about 1/5 ph down and the rest water, helps prevent those mistakes. ;)
 
G

Guest 18340

Heh, we're using 1/4th a tsp of the GH dry for 5 gallons, not 1, tho its up to 1/2 with the Maxibloom.

The AN sounds nice and concentrated too though.
My mistake. It's 1/2 tsp/gal of ph up, NOT 1/4 tsp.

I had the same problem, I keep some plastic cups in the room, and fill them with about 1/5 ph down and the rest water, helps prevent those mistakes. ;)
Interesting. I'm gonna have to give that a try when I get back, I have 3 bottles of AN ph up collecting dust.
 

*mistress*

Member
Veteran
it is formulated/designed to have a lower ph. 5.7/1g l distilled. that is roughly 4g/gal.
most gardenrs apply morethan this per gal (5-7.5g/gal), which makes solution more acid...

usually, water soluble ferts (dry) have lowers starting ph, because ph drifts up w/ nitrate nitrogen content...as plants' roots absorb nitrate cations, they expel hydroxyls or bicarbonates (h+), which increases media/solution ph...

starting @ 5.0-5.5 generally keep ph under 5.8-6.0 during 3-7 days, which generally keep micros suspended in solution & decrease precipitation. starting @ 5.0-5.3 or so should actually keep plants in soilless mix healthier.
:2cents:
pH.... 5.2, or 5.8?


 
i just started using the maxibloom after reading all the treads about it.
and so far my plants love it. now my ph was between 5.5-6.0 according to the dropper type test kit.
thats with tap water so i havent been adjusting at all.
but im also in soilless mix sunshine mix#4.
couldnt be any simpler and cost alot less then what i uesd to spend on nutes.
thanks to evole2 and the others that have helped put the info on this nute program out there.:thank you:

one thing id like to ask is when you guys start the koolbloom do you cut back the maxibloom?
or are you guys still going 1tsp-gal maxi plus the 1/4tsp per gal koolbloom?
 
OK, I know I'm talking out my ass a bit because I only spring for Drop and Vile testing kit. But, I'm thinking people may be chasing the ph demons a bit too hard. My tap is at 6.5ph and drops to 5.5 after mixing I change my DWC's out every 6-7days and the Hempy's get top watered every 2-3 days. I've just gotten completely away from babysitting my nutrient solution. Maybe the non recirculating hydro systems lead to a little less volatile nutrient solution, which might explain my good fortunes.

TFD
 
G

Guest 18340

barneyfife1, I've tried using liquid KB and the powder KB. What ended up working best for me was adding powder KB for the last 4 days before final flushing (I grow in coco).
To answer your question directly, I personally do not cut back on the Maxi when I add my pk booster.
That is a good question though, I'd like to hear how others do it.
 
I have almost the same tap water... I USE alot of phUP too and it drops quick with maxigro or bloom...

I found that Cal-Mag helped a bit... plus u NEED CAL-MAG in BLOOM not so much in grow.... But yes a lot of phUP... it stablizes after a while....
 

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