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MaxiBloom - 1tsp = *major* drop in pH - what do I do?

Sativa Dragon

Active member
Veteran
You are asking some very basic questions....you have to do more research....it's all here....go read the stickies, FAQ's and grow logs......if you growing 50+ plants ....it's going to end badly....

I know it's not what you want to hear.........but growing dank is anything but easy....

good luck

Agreed years ago I finely broke down and got a meter a good one, and it really takes the guess work and the worry that comes with the uncertainty of not actually doing it right. Also a Truncheon is also a good ppm measuring device, I got mine for $%) I think blue lab owns it now, so they must have saw it a good competition.

Peace
 
I have had to use up to 3ml of GH ph up to get ph up before. It's not going to hurt, just make sure you are adding your ph up before the maxi. As for ph pens, mine was 9.95 on Amazon and I have had it for about a year. I have to calibrate it once a month or so but no biggie.

It's actually gotten to the point where I can calibrate my pen based off of nutrient solution (not actually calibrate but I know when its time to pull out the reference solution). I also can tell where my ppms are by the ph as well (not exact but pretty dam close). I rarely pull out my ppm pen anymore (14.95 on amazon). I always weigh my maxibloom though so I know exactly what is going into the solution.
 

medmaker420

The Aardvarks LED Grow Show
Veteran
I have had to use up to 3ml of GH ph up to get ph up before. It's not going to hurt, just make sure you are adding your ph up before the maxi. As for ph pens, mine was 9.95 on Amazon and I have had it for about a year. I have to calibrate it once a month or so but no biggie.

It's actually gotten to the point where I can calibrate my pen based off of nutrient solution (not actually calibrate but I know when its time to pull out the reference solution). I also can tell where my ppms are by the ph as well (not exact but pretty dam close). I rarely pull out my ppm pen anymore (14.95 on amazon). I always weigh my maxibloom though so I know exactly what is going into the solution.

why would you ph the water before adding nutes?
 
I have a hanna meter with probe...150 delivered to my door.....has EC..PPM..PH..Temp..all in one......I just keep it in my res all the time...the first thing I do when entering my room is turn on my air-stones and pump to recirculate the water in the res and my meter on...let that run for about 1 hour....then with the information from the meter....add tap water...and nutrients....while checking the meter....when its about 1/2 full...I stop the tap water....and adjust the PH down to 5.5 or so...knowing that the tap water will bring up the ph as it fills to 5.8 to 6.2..........now sometimes the tap water is shitty...who knows why the water company added whatever they had to add to it...and my ph "Might be" low....you almost do a double take.....saying "Hey No Way"....I have fricking done this 1000's of times...this is wrong...so you recalibrate everything...takes like 5 minutes to do it...and in your mind it's still wrong......"EVERYONE" "BELIEVE YOUR METER".....if its been calibrated...its the tap water that is messing you up..........sometimes you have to add ph-up and sometimes you have to add ph-down.......keep those PPM's at 1000-1200.... and ph to 5.8 to 6.2 and your golden.

I am running straight coco....and have not had any nutrient problems for 3 years....also I am totally organic (OMRI)...and mix my own stuff.

For people just using the dosage on the back of the bottle...thinking their good.....Your running blind.......and if your using multiple bottles....it is an accident waiting to happen....it's going to happen.........but if you have a meter....and use it everyday...and its calibrated......you know exactly where you are at.

Sorry for the ramble.....but if your running larger number's of plants....it's a train wreck without a meter.
 
Found this in the KISS thread, but I know there is more definitive information out there. I would love to be told that this is wrong. Maybe one of our resident experts can chime in.

Anyways, Ph up is partly potassium silicate, which is what most silca products are btw. I use dyna gro protect at 2.5ml a gallon and never have to use ph up. I personally add all my silica, or ph up to my res before I mix my nutes, adding potassium silicate after calcium can cause a lockout.
Peace,
Metal

Here is a thread discussing it. As usual nothing is set in stone.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=13855
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Because ph up has silica in it which in my understanding can (note CAN not DOES) cause issues with locking out calmag if added after the maxi. Pretty sure I picked that up from the KISS thread, I will try to find my source.

10 years... never pH'd starting water.

10 years... never used cal/mag.

10 years... never had 'mag' issues that weren't cleared up with a pinch of quality epsom salt. (The supermarket cheapie stuff is pretty bad and inconsistent)

3 years been using silica, no problems... great stuff. :)

Maxibloom has way more than plenty of mag and calcium for cannabis. Only a few mag hungry exotics are going to beg for more... epsom handles that. Put your cal/mag money where it's more useful... equipment and seeds. :)

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:
 
G

Gunnlæif

totally organic (OMRI)

don't put your eggs in that basket...OMRI is a scam, by the're standards it only has to be 17% organic in it to get that stamp.

many think the're completely organic with things out of a bag or bottle with OMRI on it, which is far from reality, some are better than others but the only way to be 100% is to take everything straight from nature yourself and let it rock.
tiphat.gif
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for the valuable info , what would be a quality epsom salt drug store stuff?

Peace

There's epsom salts and then there's magnesium hexahydrate or some crap. Don't get the bag that lists hexa or hepta or whatever it is. Just Magnesium Sulfate.

You want the nice white salt... not the clear crystals stuff. You'll usually find the good epsom at garden supplys... I actually found some Doc "some brand name" at a walmart that was the real salt. $4 for 6lbs... nice ;)

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:
 
Gunn thanks for the comment

Gunn thanks for the comment

You missed the part where it says I "MIX" my own stuff.....all is purchased from a feed/seed/nursery store locally.....batt guano, sea bird guano..kelp, seawead, mollasses, fish emulsion, etc....made into a tea and used.....but I hear ya you gotta watch out for some of that stuff......by mixing my own....my costs are like 20% of retail nutrients and I know what I am getting.

don't put your eggs in that basket...OMRI is a scam, by the're standards it only has to be 17% organic in it to get that stamp.

many think the're completely organic with things out of a bag or bottle with OMRI on it, which is far from reality, some are better than others but the only way to be 100% is to take everything straight from nature yourself and let it rock. View Image
 
G

Gunnlæif

You missed the part where it says I "MIX" my own stuff.....all is purchased from a feed/seed/nursery store locally.....batt guano, sea bird guano..kelp, seawead, mollasses, fish emulsion, etc....made into a tea and used.....but I hear ya you gotta watch out for some of that stuff......by mixing my own....my costs are like 20% of retail nutrients and I know what I am getting.

no i didn't miss that and i was only adressing the OMRI suggestion that it's organic because of that bullshit labeling of products that are not complete organics.

it's all good, i know what you meant. :ying:
 

Sativa Dragon

Active member
Veteran
There's epsom salts and then there's magnesium hexahydrate or some crap. Don't get the bag that lists hexa or hepta or whatever it is. Just Magnesium Sulfate.

You want the nice white salt... not the clear crystals stuff. You'll usually find the good epsom at garden supplys... I actually found some Doc "some brand name" at a walmart that was the real salt. $4 for 6lbs... nice ;)

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:

Thanks for the heads up, I will have a look next time I am at wally world hee hee,

much appreciated

Peace
 

RSA

Member
So far, the plants are looking healthy after 1 dose of Maxi.

Going to water with plain water, 6.2-6.5ph, for next watering.

Ordered a soil pH test for now until i can afford a GOOD pH pen.

That said, I can roll with straight promix and maxibloom for the entire grow, correct? I believe I also grabbed a bottle of Protekt on my last amazon order - so aside from these 2 things, should I need anything else thru veg and thru flower?

Also, question on VEG TIME:

I have roughly 42 or so plants in 2 gal's under 2 x 1000w.

My goal is a solid 16 or 18 females in 5 gals.

I want *maximum* yield. I was only averaging ~0.4-0.5 grams per watt in previous harvests, but that was also with only 12 plants with major heat issues, pH lockout, etc.

How long should I veg for after I know the sex to ensure maximum growth and to avoid overcrowding? Some say a month, some say 6 weeks, some even go as far as to say 10 or 14 weeks. Any input veterans??
 
RSA......you have gotton good advice in this thread....it's now up to you to do your own reasearch.....which means read......not keep asking questions about how to grow.

good luck.....learning is now up to you.....its the journey you must travel.....we can't give you the answers to the test...you need to find them on your own.
 

Kcar

There are FOUR lights!
Veteran
There's epsom salts and then there's magnesium hexahydrate or some crap. Don't get the bag that lists hexa or hepta or whatever it is. Just Magnesium Sulfate.

You want the nice white salt... not the clear crystals stuff. You'll usually find the good epsom at garden supplys... I actually found some Doc "some brand name" at a walmart that was the real salt. $4 for 6lbs... nice ;)

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:

Can you explain why MgSO4 is better than MgSO4'7H2O?
I realize it is more concentrated, but the 7 H2O shouldn't make a
difference in solution.
 

RSA

Member
RSA......you have gotton good advice in this thread....it's now up to you to do your own reasearch.....which means read......not keep asking questions about how to grow.

good luck.....learning is now up to you.....its the journey you must travel.....we can't give you the answers to the test...you need to find them on your own.

listen man, take your holier-than-thou attitude elsewhere if you have nothing constructive to say.

if people were THAT offended by me asking questions, they would not have replied. even in your own admission i've obtained good advice, so why would i suddenly stop trying to get more good advice?

these aren't questions about 'how to grow'. these are questions pertaining to a grow in progress, trying to get opinions and advice for my specific setup. i've tried things in the past based off what others recommended or by reading other threads and didn't come out to where i want to be, which is why i'm here asking questions. again if you have nothing constructive to say, please refrain from posting here.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Can you explain why MgSO4 is better than MgSO4'7H2O?
I realize it is more concentrated, but the 7 H2O shouldn't make a
difference in solution.
Not sure... just that there's inconsistency with the more refined stuff. The plants don't like it... I'd ask them why if I could. :)

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:
 

RockinRobot

Active member
So, with further testing it takes approx. 4-4.5ML of pH UP solution to bring 1 gallon of tap water to 'optimal' pH of 6.5-6.8 (incl. 1tsp of maxibloom)

per GH website, 1-2ML should be enough but if you have 'hard water', you may need more. not sure if this indicates I have hard water or not, but still I ask the community:

1.) is this 'normal' to require so much pH up solution to bring to optimal levels w/maxibloom?

2.) what is 'safe' to feed seedlings/veg stage plants in regards to maxibloom (1/2tsp, 1tsp, etc)

The GH Website value of 1-2ml is Per/Point of Ph change. So if your starting PH is below 4 you need to bring it up 2.5-3 points could easily take 6-8ml to bring your ph where it belongs.

You definitely want some type of meter though the color change drops are no where near accurate enough. I tried them my first grow and splurged for a meter 1/2 way through when I couldn't keep ph stable enough because test isn't accurate enough.
 
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