Makeshift Greenhouse Problems

[brown_thumb]

Here are my ladies sunbathing. Beautiful, aren't they? With fifteen healthy ladies I feel like I have a virtual harem. Sadly, four are midgets and the others are too young.

 

[brown_thumb]

Okay, transplant and wait 1-2 weeks. Then flip to flowering. Is 12 inch (300mm) plant height a good 'average' time to flip (for fem and regular, not auto)?

I know some folks recommend flipping in at least two steps... a 50:50 change in mix of nutrients plus a 15/9 light schedule for a week or two before flipping completely to 12/12 and all flowering nutrients. Others state it makes no difference. However, the Emerald Harvest nutrients I'm using does suggest a gradual change in nutrients. I don't know but it makes sense to me.

 

[brown_thumb]

Money is nonexistent at the moment so I must be careful with my actions. I'll have funds in about three weeks. I need to plan this carefully.

I'll assemble a second insulated box... or one larger insulated area for the plants to protect them from the winter cold as needed. Then I'll transplant each plant into it's own 5 gallon bucket. I'll also hire an electrician to run 240v to the four new CMH lights (2 each Philips 315w 3100K and 4200K). I'd rather not transplant twice so I need to keep the plants going in these 4 inch (100mm) pots for three weeks. The tallest plants are only 8 inches (215mm) tall at the moment so I think this is okay.

After transplantation I'll wait until the plants are 12 inches (300mm) tall before LST then another 2-3 weeks before flipping to flower. I'll do this in two stages. I'll follow Emerald Harvest's recommendations regarding slow transition of nutrients and start with a 15/9 light timing followed by 12/12 and full transition to flowering nutrients a week after that.

DOES ANYONE SEE ANY PROBLEMS WITH THIS PLAN?

 

[Levitationofme]

Good plan, although I think it's over kill to transition lights.
I just go from veg to flower. Never a problem.
But zero harm will come to your plants if you do transition lights.
Matter of preference

The amount of roots directly effect the growth possibilities. Without doubt you can keep them in small containers and keep feeding them and they will get as big as they can under the circumstances.

I have successfully transplanted directly into final bucket, as well as successfully transitioned from small cup to 1 gallon pots, Then If I have enough room left in growing area I go to a bigger pot. So your plan is one I have used and it worked. Worked with no problems.

I have short grow space so I keep it to 2 or 3 gallon pots.


Nice to see a bunch of green ladies lined up for you there!

 

[brown_thumb]

I can't remember if I posted this info but I'll do it now. The stunted plants are the result of growing them with a 11/13 light ratio so they flowered early and grew VERY short. I did this thinking they'd be okay... I was wrong. I was keeping the lighted hours minimal because the plants are in a greenhouse with white translucent panels and I didn't want people to see the 'purple lights' glowing through the side panels so I was only adding light during daytime.

Since then, I've built an insulated box to put the plants in, which shelters them from the cold and blocks most of the 'purple light' from glowing through the panels. When I did this I lengthened the lighted hours to 16/8 and the vegetating stage of young plants is MUCH improved.

Of course, many (or most) of you already knew this but I had to learn it myself. The tiny underdeveloped plants that were started under 11/13 lighting will produce but not much. They simply refuse to grow much more.

 

[brown_thumb]

Good plan, although I think it's over kill to transition lights.
I just go from veg to flower. Never a problem.
But zero harm will come to your plants if you do transition lights.
Matter of preference

The amount of roots directly effect the growth possibilities. Without doubt you can keep them in small containers and keep feeding them and they will get as big as they can under the circumstances.

I have successfully transplanted directly into final bucket, as well as successfully transitioned from small cup to 1 gallon pots, Then If I have enough room left in growing area I go to a bigger pot. So your plan is one I have used and it worked. Worked with no problems.

I have short grow space so I keep it to 2 or 3 gallon pots.


Nice to see a bunch of green ladies lined up for you there!

Thank you, I'm doing my best to avoid killing my plants. I'm getting better... bit by bit.

 

[HarvestMoon303]

Money is nonexistent at the moment so I must be careful with my actions. I'll have funds in about three weeks. I need to plan this carefully.

I'll assemble a second insulated box... or one larger insulated area for the plants to protect them from the winter cold as needed. Then I'll transplant each plant into it's own 5 gallon bucket. I'll also hire an electrician to run 240v to the four new CMH lights (2 each Philips 315w 3100K and 4200K). I'd rather not transplant twice so I need to keep the plants going in these 4 inch (100mm) pots for three weeks. The tallest plants are only 8 inches (215mm) tall at the moment so I think this is okay.

After transplantation I'll wait until the plants are 12 inches (300mm) tall before LST then another 2-3 weeks before flipping to flower. I'll do this in two stages. I'll follow Emerald Harvest's recommendations regarding slow transition of nutrients and start with a 15/9 light timing followed by 12/12 and full transition to flowering nutrients a week after that.

DOES ANYONE SEE ANY PROBLEMS WITH THIS PLAN?

I would see if they are still growing after the weird light schedule. If they are, you have a long way to go before "optimal" flip times, but since nothing in your grow is optimal thus far, why start now?

Usually a plant from seed takes 8-14 weeks of veg before making pre-flowers and being "really ready" to flower. You can flip them before this and force them to flower, but the mature plants always do better/bigger. With your space, pot, and light limitations, I don't know what you can fit. If you get the CMH going, it's a pretty good light to stop stretching, and I would guess that your plants would only get 50% larger in stretch/flower. At that size, the plants might give you 1/2 to 1 oz each (with proper lighting).

Are you going to be able to give them 12/12? It doesn't really sound like you have much control over the "makeshift greenhouse" lighting. Is it going to actually be dark during the 12 hours of lights out?

 

[HarvestMoon303]

The upside is that those little ones are way easier to trim. It's a bud on a stick. I don't know what the laws are where you are, but I would probably try to use less plants, and just make them larger with more light/veg time. Plant counts are stupid, but real. ..especially in states where they don't want you growing.

 

[brown_thumb]

I would see if they are still growing after the weird light schedule. If they are, you have a long way to go before "optimal" flip times, but since nothing in your grow is optimal thus far, why start now?

Usually a plant from seed takes 8-14 weeks of veg before making pre-flowers and being "really ready" to flower. You can flip them before this and force them to flower, but the mature plants always do better/bigger. With your space, pot, and light limitations, I don't know what you can fit. If you get the CMH going, it's a pretty good light to stop stretching, and I would guess that your plants would only get 50% larger in stretch/flower. At that size, the plants might give you 1/2 to 1 oz each (with proper lighting).

Are you going to be able to give them 12/12? It doesn't really sound like you have much control over the "makeshift greenhouse" lighting. Is it going to actually be dark during the 12 hours of lights out?

Ha ha, HM... you pull no punches.

I'm reconfiguring my plans to better support the plants. However, there is a three week delay before implementation due to lack of funds. The largest plants are only 8 inches tall so I think they'll be okay in the 4 inch pots for three weeks.

The insulated box is 'almost' light tight (not quite). I think it's dark enough in daylight since it's in the greenhouse which has frosted white panels and is mounted against the north side of my trailer. It's pretty dark in that box.

If I net one ounce per plant, I'll be very happy this round. That's nearly a full pound and will easily pay off the guy who supplied the labor to build the green house plus leave me some medicine for myself. This spring I'll make improvements!!

 

[brown_thumb]

The upside is that those little ones are way easier to trim. It's a bud on a stick. I don't know what the laws are where you are, but I would probably try to use less plants, and just make them larger with more light/veg time. Plant counts are stupid, but real. ..especially in states where they don't want you growing.

Laws here are bad... very very bad. It makes little difference regarding consequences other than convincing a judge (a benevolent judge) that I'm not selling and need the meds for pain and Parkinson's. Perhaps he/she will take pity and save me from prison time and losing my home. However, since I'm alone and no one needs me anymore, I can take that chance.

 

[iffey]

^^^ Thank you. Transplant after the flip? I could swear I've read to do the opposite. I'll research it further.

EDIT: Oh wait... I see your last sentence does suggest flipping after transplantation.

I'm sorry, yes, that was supposed to be a question... not a statement...

 

[brown_thumb]

I'm seeing what I think is phosphorus deficiency. Some stems are reddish and a few leaves are looking bad. I trimmed the leaves. I think the problem is cold roots. The ambient temperature has been dropping but I haven't increased the temperature of the thermostat controlling the heater 30 inches under the plants. I didn't think I needed to. However, two days ago, as I was testing the weight of the pots to judge soil wetness, I noticed the sides of the pots seemed too cold. The thermostat was set to 60F so I raised it to 65F. This morning, the pots still seemed too cool so I raised it to 70F.

I'm not certain but I think the plants are already improving. Could increasing root temperature reverse a phosphorus deficiency that quickly?

 

[HarvestMoon303]

I'm seeing what I think is phosphorus deficiency. Some stems are reddish and a few leaves are looking bad. I trimmed the leaves. I think the problem is cold roots. The ambient temperature has been dropping but I haven't increased the temperature of the thermostat controlling the heater 30 inches under the plants. I didn't think I needed to. However, two days ago, as I was testing the weight of the pots to judge soil wetness, I noticed the sides of the pots seemed too cold. The thermostat was set to 60F so I raised it to 65F. This morning, the pots still seemed too cool so I raised it to 70F.

I'm not certain but I think the plants are already improving. Could increasing root temperature reverse a phosphorus deficiency that quickly?

It probably could. Cooler temps equate with decreased K availability in the soil/mix and slower plant update of K, but mostly because they slow down all of their growth. I have "cooler" roots in the winter, and it messes with nutes and growth for sure. It's literally 0 out, so that's not really helping. I think that it might add a week onto my flowering times, which I really don't want, but I'll never take them too soon.

 

[brown_thumb]

Thanks, HM303. I watered late this afternoon then later felt the pots for root temperature and adjusted the thermostat to 68F. It's obvious that I need to moderate balance between soil wetness, relative humidity, ambient temperature and cold winds infiltrating the greenhouse and grow box. Hell, even the direction of the wind and cloudiness vs. sunshine vs. angle of the sun (time of day and time of year) affect where I need to set the thermostat. I'm flying by the seat of my pants and learning as I go... guessing/estimating. The more I learn about growing, the more I think I need to move my grow inside so I can better control all elements and conditions.

SIDE NOTE: It pisses me off that so many people say this is easy. It's NOT easy for me. Maybe I'm just stupid. Either way, I need to find better/easier methods.

 

[brown_thumb]

I will add this though... after trimming the few sick leaves from a few plants... I can't stop smelling my fingers. My girls smell like a combination of Fruit Loops, spearmint and holiday spices.

 

[al70]

I will add this though... after trimming the few sick leaves from a few plants... I can't stop smelling my fingers. My girls smell like a combination of Fruit Loops, spearmint and holiday spices.

NICE, i love fruitloops, goodluck B.T.

 

[brown_thumb]

It's above 60F degrees at the moment so I opened the grow box and started the fan so the plants have fresh air. They get enough air exchange when it's cold because the box leaks heat and pulls fresh cold air from below when the heater is on. The weather will be windy with freezing temperatures for several nights in a row so I'll have to better seal the box, which has too many significant leaks.

 

[EastCoast710]

just go get yourself. FFOF soil.. and some happy frog.. mix 1 bag to 1 bag.. for bigger plants.. for clones. or seeds.. do just happy frog until they take off.. then u can mix 1/2 ffof to happy frog.. then do half and half.. and watch how much better your plants do.. shortcuts are ruining your grow experience.. just grab some soil and start getting nuggets.

 

[brown_thumb]

^^^ The soil I bought is supposed to be a clone of FFOF (Victory Sea Blend). It stayed far too wet and rotted the roots. It was too wet even after a full month of not watering in warm ambient temperatures. However, I don't know how 'truthful' the supplier was/is regarding how closely matched their soil is to FFOF.

 

[HarvestMoon303]

^^^ The soil I bought is supposed to be a clone of FFOF (Victory Sea Blend). It stayed far too wet and rotted the roots. It was too wet even after a full month of not watering in warm ambient temperatures. However, I don't know how 'truthful' the supplier was/is regarding how closely matched their soil is to FFOF.

I was going to say something similar. I grew in HF, and it was great for the plants, but hard to water. I think that the mix would be fine, but I would add some pearlite to lighten it up and dry it out faster. It has some perlite and some coco to lighten the mix, but it's not quite enough.