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Magnetic or Digital?

I use magnetics over digitals for a few reasons. The RF noise reports are one, but a fairly minor one, since it can be solved with a Faraday cage. My main reason is this:

Lumatek Digi 1kw - $400
1000w Magnetic - $110

Initial cost difference- $290

1kw Magnetic costs me $25 a month to run. So with the much vaunted 10% effeciency savings, I would save $2.50. So, just to break even on the initial investment takes 116 months of operation, or just shy of ten years.

On top of that, if the magnetic malfunctions, I can buy parts to repair it locally (cap is the worst offender, around $35 to replace). Digitals are solid state, can't repair that yourself or locally in most cases. So you're looking at a local exchange, or worse yet, having to send it off for replacement/repair.

Or I can completely replace the whole magnetic ballast twice, and still be under the initial investment on the digi.

Also, please keep in mind that it is not going to change your amperage on the circuit you are using. 1000w is a 1000w, whether digital or magnetic, so it won't help you save amperage.

Off topic: Regarding the vert discussion - You can indeed air cool a vert, and you do not need to do a multi row colosseum style to benefit from vertical growing.



http://www.1000bulbs.com/1000-Watt-Metal-Halide-Ballast/39183/
1000 Watt - Metal Halide Ballast - 4 Tap - Venture V90D6514K



$73.68 Each
gl
 
T

tokinafaty420

Engage!

draft_lens2209648module19537082photo_1236458539captain_picard.jpg
 

GrowerGoneWild

Active member
Veteran
1kw Magnetic costs me $25 a month to run. So with the much vaunted 10% effeciency savings, I would save $2.50. So, just to break even on the initial investment takes 116 months of operation, or just shy of ten years.

Well put, I would have to say that its more of an advantage to run hortilux for its higher PAR output.

I would go as far as to say that even if it costs a bit more to run a magnetic ballast, you are able to run a higher quality bulb and make up for the slight power loss.
 

BigTop

Member
I kinda find it interesting that opposite results are being observed...

Lazy~ you say increased lumens... I measured appx 1330 mMols (PAR) with the Quantums vs 1310 w my C&C.

Also, my Horti's are actually running "better" than my Ushio's... after 2 crops, the PAR maintenance is better on the Horti's. Simultaneously, had an Ushio crap out on my C&C.

So, I'm not observing a significant PAR increase & my Horti's are running well... outside of the fact that they occasionally hum, which is annoying, but no blow outs...?


And I do see a visible difference in spectrum...? More 'balanced' on the C&C's...
 

globel

Member
no one mentioned that digital's will fire bulbs at grater length then magnetic... though I heard you can overcome this by having a ignitor closer.
 

NiteTiger

Tiger, Tiger, burning bright...
Veteran
http://www.1000bulbs.com/1000-Watt-Metal-Halide-Ballast/39183/
1000 Watt - Metal Halide Ballast - 4 Tap - Venture V90D6514K

$73.68 Each
gl

I should have specified I was referring to HPS, my bad.

globel said:
no one mentioned that digital's will fire bulbs at grater length then magnetic... though I heard you can overcome this by having a ignitor closer.

That's because it is not a real concern for our application.

You only begin having issues remotely firing bulbs when you get past about 100 ft, and it's usually farther than that. This is a concern for those using the ballasts for commercial or industrial purposes. Lighting in a warehouse, for example.
 
B

Bud Bug

if distance is an issue a mag can be fitted with a 35$ long distance cap.

Using 35uf caps will only lead to extra heat with the ballasts and fires. Seen this too many times. You can also get long range igniter's which I've been told will work better then bigger caps.
 

junior_grower

Active member
The issue with larger caps is the fact many skimp out and buy oil filled, the long distance ignitor and larger cap (dry film) work great together and produce a small difference in overall heat.
 

Haps

stone fool
Veteran
I am sticking with mags, cause cheap and dependable is how I roll. With ss10s I can switch and replace any ballast that goes down and keep on running. No big noise.

That UL stuff is real folks, I did some real world bidness with them, if a product does not get their seal, there is a damn good reason for it.
H
 
I should have specified I was referring to HPS, my bad.



That's because it is not a real concern for our application.

You only begin having issues remotely firing bulbs when you get past about 100 ft, and it's usually farther than that. This is a concern for those using the ballasts for commercial or industrial purposes. Lighting in a warehouse, for example.

Right, I am Going by the Northern Farmer stadium model where he uses 1K MH with 2#'s a bulb.
 
W

Wasabi420

I just had a disscussion with my hydro salesman and he told me that all 1000k digitals put off noticable RF noise. He stopped selling them because they are in violation of fcc regulations. He told me that it could develop into a class action lawsuit. Apparently the RF noise is detectable from am and ham radios. if your running 1000k digitals in the city you might want to think of getting some rf shielding as people may be able to detect your garden.
 

GrowerGoneWild

Active member
Veteran
I just had a disscussion with my hydro salesman and he told me that all 1000k digitals put off noticable RF noise. He stopped selling them because they are in violation of fcc regulations. He told me that it could develop into a class action lawsuit. Apparently the RF noise is detectable from am and ham radios. if your running 1000k digitals in the city you might want to think of getting some rf shielding as people may be able to detect your garden.

This is something that my friend noticed, he has to run his hanna growcheck PH/PPM meter far away from his digital ballast. (Its a 600 tho'). I'll have to ask him if it is in fact RFI.

I'll have to try the am radio thing next to his digitial ballast.

Dumb question, if RFI is a problem, why doesn't digital ballast users have some sort of shielded cord like coaxial cable?
 
B

Bud Bug

This is something that my friend noticed, he has to run his hanna growcheck PH/PPM meter far away from his digital ballast. (Its a 600 tho'). I'll have to ask him if it is in fact RFI.

I'll have to try the am radio thing next to his digitial ballast.

Dumb question, if RFI is a problem, why doesn't digital ballast users have some sort of shielded cord like coaxial cable?

http://www.youtube.com/user/AltGrow

You can shield it a little but there's the mogul socket and light bulb exposed at the end.

The only company that I know that will have digital ballast approved for street light usage pretty soon is from Nutrilife Plant Products in BC http://www.nutrilifeproducts.com/products/lighting/electronicBallast/

I don't know if this will be for both Canada and the US but I'll get more info next week.

Last week I saw the 600W version which are fully controllable though your computer and can be set up to turn on/of/dim at anytime you want.

BUT we'll see...
 

GeorgeSmiley

Remembers
Veteran
http://www.youtube.com/user/AltGrow

You can shield it a little but there's the mogul socket and light bulb exposed at the end.

The only company that I know that will have digital ballast approved for street light usage pretty soon is from Nutrilife Plant Products in BC http://www.nutrilifeproducts.com/products/lighting/electronicBallast/

I don't know if this will be for both Canada and the US but I'll get more info next week.

Last week I saw the 600W version which are fully controllable though your computer and can be set up to turn on/of/dim at anytime you want.

BUT we'll see...

Now that sounds very interesting. I figure it's only a matter of time before we can make a leap towards more efficient and relaible digital ballasts. i just haven't been willing to be a beta tester for the last couple years.

Thanks for posting that.

Cheers
Smiley
 
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