Three Berries
Active member
LOL I wonder how all are checking the pH of the RO water......
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Magnesium Carbonate?
- Thread starter creativeprocess
- Start date
Three Berries
Active member
The point of me doing this is a way to buffer the soil when the pH has fallen too low and repeated flushing doesn't help. And to avoid more potassium to raise the pH.
My well water is 440 ppm 90/10 Ca/Mg and if I get this dialed in then no CalMag type treatments will be needed.
A low ionic solution still carries a charge, it just doesn't take much to change it. That is what happens when you add the MgCO3 and the ppm count goes up. Although insoluble in water the CO3- has reacted with the H+ ions, canceling out the charge and added MG++.
My well water is 440 ppm 90/10 Ca/Mg and if I get this dialed in then no CalMag type treatments will be needed.
A low ionic solution still carries a charge, it just doesn't take much to change it. That is what happens when you add the MgCO3 and the ppm count goes up. Although insoluble in water the CO3- has reacted with the H+ ions, canceling out the charge and added MG++.
When carbonate goe into solution the salt is partially ionized, with the formation of ions which bear a positive charge and C03 ions which bear a negative charge. A CO3 ion will also be formed when calcium, magnesium, potassium or any other carbonate goes into solution.
The plant feeds upon these ions. They do not "buffer" the medium.
The results of experiments suggest that the plant, when grown in a solution containing a dissolved carbonate, absorbs the CO3 ion by means of its roots.
The plant feeds upon these ions. They do not "buffer" the medium.
The results of experiments suggest that the plant, when grown in a solution containing a dissolved carbonate, absorbs the CO3 ion by means of its roots.
Three Berries
Active member
When the -CO3 and the +H meet up it's water and CO2 and +Mg. So going by runoff as the pH starts to rise then I'm adjusting the input.
If there is excess MgCO3, that the plant does not want and the pH is above 7.0 that any neutralizing action isn't going on then what? Eventually the pH will go up to 9.7. But flushing will remove it before I kill my plant.
But I already have it and CaCO3 in my well water. And now plan to use as my base water a mix of ~20% well, rain and 1/4gr per 4L MgCO3. which should give me around 280mg of CaCO3 per liter, and 60mg (30 from well+30 added), of MgCO3.
But it does indeed bring the pH up in the run off. Some is pass through but both problem plants that have been stuck below 6 are now reading 6.3 with a rain water/well mix last watering. In flower the plants are being watered about once a day so I can keep an eye on what's what.
If there is excess MgCO3, that the plant does not want and the pH is above 7.0 that any neutralizing action isn't going on then what? Eventually the pH will go up to 9.7. But flushing will remove it before I kill my plant.
But I already have it and CaCO3 in my well water. And now plan to use as my base water a mix of ~20% well, rain and 1/4gr per 4L MgCO3. which should give me around 280mg of CaCO3 per liter, and 60mg (30 from well+30 added), of MgCO3.
But it does indeed bring the pH up in the run off. Some is pass through but both problem plants that have been stuck below 6 are now reading 6.3 with a rain water/well mix last watering. In flower the plants are being watered about once a day so I can keep an eye on what's what.
I didn't make it up or say it because it is not true. I'm telling you because I thought you wanted to know the truth about testing pH with a pocket meter. You get different readings each time because they are false. Use a regent testing system to test anything in low ppm. Look up regent pH testing for plants. .
Three Berries
Active member
You got to start somewhere. If I leave the meter in for 5 minutes it will give me a consistent number among the water I have collected, around 10 gallons at a time. Usually 6.2-6.4, same with ppm.
If it's inaccurate then what's the big deal? Can't be off by much right? What else you going to do?
If it's inaccurate then what's the big deal? Can't be off by much right? What else you going to do?
Just know the starting pH of rain water is 5.5 due to the carbonic acid it gets from the atmosphere is where you start. I know the general range of the pH of rainwater. Using the Regent Testing kit can give you a reading, however its not worth the trouble because I already know the rain water starting pH. I've sent a sample to a lab and know.
Also knowing this it tells me you are getting false readings when you say 6.2-6.4 pH because plain rain is always in the 5s.
It doesn't matter, I not arguing with you I'm just sharing with you what everybody in Horticulture already knows. You're doing good
Three Berries
Active member
I figure most acid is nitric in rain water. After all it's falling through 78% mix compared to .04% CO2.
So my pH meter and me are lying when I say I have rain water at 6.2pH. You are correct.
But if you have lockout from too low of pH what I'm doing worked great. You can nit pick all you want. I'm not spending $100s to find out the pH of something I'm going to change. It's the final pH that counts.
So my pH meter and me are lying when I say I have rain water at 6.2pH. You are correct.
But if you have lockout from too low of pH what I'm doing worked great. You can nit pick all you want. I'm not spending $100s to find out the pH of something I'm going to change. It's the final pH that counts.
Boa noite senhor! desculpe-me sentar e aprender!! Sou um cultivador iniciante e estou pensando em usar CaCo3 para fazer clones. 1g/L obtém ph8. Gostaria de saber como aplicá-lo nas estacas e também se devo diminuir o ph ou elas irão absorver normalmente. Desde já agradeço dez e um abraço do Brasil.
