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Local materials
- Thread starter Microbeman
- Start date
Were you thinking the mullein was extra hardy or unusual somehow?
Maybe it goes a bit longer due to climate. As far as kratom growing, this is my first year trying it, started with two one foot tall plants, they are probably 3x3 ft now in 27 gal totes.
One is a Thai called Raifat red and the other Malaysian green. 60$ a piece from Hawaii included shipping, best I could find and another member here found them.
Never tried it before, it was to add to other medical botanicals. Surprisingly noticeable just chewing an inch square of leaf. . zodiac botanicals . org is his site, minus the spaces.
T
Teddybrae
Most estimable Persons I bid thee gentle and appreciative greetings from across the Great Water and wonder if you might advise me re:
I have some soil in use that (because of the Char I added) measures a pH of 7. I am wondering if when the Char populates fully with organisms the pH will acidify, maybe half a point?
Thanks in anticipation ...
I have some soil in use that (because of the Char I added) measures a pH of 7. I am wondering if when the Char populates fully with organisms the pH will acidify, maybe half a point?
Thanks in anticipation ...
It should.
I usually pretreat my char in a lacto fermentation.
Teddy; Is your soil in the ground, raised bed, containers [size]?
As hh mentioned it is always best to charge your char with a form of microorganisms/nutrients otherwise there can be undesired effects until the soil stabilizes itself.
As hh mentioned it is always best to charge your char with a form of microorganisms/nutrients otherwise there can be undesired effects until the soil stabilizes itself.
T
Teddybrae
Thanks MM!
In 100 litre pots. 25 of your gallons.
I have a brew kit of microbes here. Would these be useful?
In 100 litre pots. 25 of your gallons.
I have a brew kit of microbes here. Would these be useful?
my local microbes are rocking it this year!
I'm a bit satisfied with my miniature microcosm, with its miniature ups and downs. I have a beautiful natural groundcover in one yard which any professional landscaper would get rid of instantly. It consists primarily of 2 types of creeping vines, one with blue flowers. [could be a type of violet]
My first ever crop of cayenne.
Ballerina of paradise
Enormous dandelions yet to flower
My first ever crop of cayenne.
Ballerina of paradise
Enormous dandelions yet to flower
Mushroom amidst heal all - self heal foliage
Some unknowns yet to tell their story
Some unknowns yet to tell their story
Rooting for the Hibiscus elatus [not as easy as anticipated]
Sorry for my tardi-beingness I can only say it would likely help, not knowing exactly what you mean. I would guess a source of nitrogen after you plant would be good. Like alfalfa topdressed or tea; or topdress comfrey leaves or green grass cuttings.
PokeMushroom amidst heal all - self heal foliage
View Image
Some unknowns yet to tell their story
Spines?
View Image
Poke.
View Image
'Boogieman'
Well-known member
I found a patch of rough horsetail or scouring rush growing along railroad tracks, this is the type that looks like thick grass and grows 2 to 3ft tall, not the type that looks like a horses tail. I pulled up about 15 stalks with root and planted them in a pot with thick soil that holds water but still drains. I'm assuming since this type of horsetail species still produces silica it will be good for horticultural purposes correct?
Hookahhead
Active member
I took some photos yesterday of the algae mulch at 39 days. I’m pretty happy with the results. The algae never formed a thick crust. Although water can bounce/run off the surface, any water sitting on it is absorbed within a second or two. Once rehydrated it passes water even easier. My watering method has been to flood the middle area, then water in a ring around the plant. It’s easy to tell where the algae is wet due to the color contrast. The material held up fairly well to the sun and constant wet/dry cycles. In the future I will probably add a new layer on top every 30 days.
Before
Day 1
Day 14
Day 39
Many root hairs are visible where there were none before the mulch was added. You can even see a few that have grown into the algae! Keep in mind I put the mulch on around the 3rd or 4th week of flowering. I also had to chop the plant early due to bud rot, and these pictures are a few days after harvest. I plan on adding a mulch layer to the next round of 1 gallons when I report my seedlings in the next couple of days.
Before
Day 1
Day 14
Day 39
Many root hairs are visible where there were none before the mulch was added. You can even see a few that have grown into the algae! Keep in mind I put the mulch on around the 3rd or 4th week of flowering. I also had to chop the plant early due to bud rot, and these pictures are a few days after harvest. I plan on adding a mulch layer to the next round of 1 gallons when I report my seedlings in the next couple of days.
Hookahhead
Active member
So it’s been just over 9 weeks since I posted about making my local mix. I only needed a gallon to transplant a plant, but I figure it would be a good time to take a look.
The bags have been protected under the plastic bin this whole time, and I haven’t touched them.
I only moved the small bag, you can see roots have found their way in.
Roots that have visible mycelium on them.
Lots more in the bag!
All potted up. Beautiful, sweet smelling, friable soil. The kind you just want to roll around in.
I carefully closed up the bag and returned it back to its spot. I placed the plastic cover back over it. This weekend I will mix up another batch of my amended base mix. I will mix this inoculated soil in with it, then fill 5 gallon containers with the mix. The containers will be bagged or binned for 2 weeks before moving transplants into them. Thanks for looking!
The bags have been protected under the plastic bin this whole time, and I haven’t touched them.
I only moved the small bag, you can see roots have found their way in.
Roots that have visible mycelium on them.
Lots more in the bag!
All potted up. Beautiful, sweet smelling, friable soil. The kind you just want to roll around in.
I carefully closed up the bag and returned it back to its spot. I placed the plastic cover back over it. This weekend I will mix up another batch of my amended base mix. I will mix this inoculated soil in with it, then fill 5 gallon containers with the mix. The containers will be bagged or binned for 2 weeks before moving transplants into them. Thanks for looking!
Last edited:
Hookahhead
Active member
Thanks Cris I am very happy with the way it turned out, hopefully my plants will be happy too! Yes this exactly that mix that I posted earlier in this thread (I have included a link in above the post). I think this is a similar process to IMO3, but honestly I don’t follow KNF exactly. Basically I start with a healthy mix, and during the cooking process allow the opportunity for other organisms to make their way in. Give everything a little bit of time while the magic happens. My mix changes slightly from time to time based on what I have available. I really enjoy that with a little knowledge and patience I can take various local “wastes” and turn it into a sack of gold.
hello good in the end I made a mix with what I had on hand that was:
BASE MIX:
+ 70% land that had been used and recycled only with earthworm humus
***********and biobizz and bioblom, of the all-mix type, already had perlite.
+ 30% Earthworm Humus and added perlite.
INCREASE:
I've just put worm humus and I'm testing with Neem flour
+ I have an earthworm in motion that I feed with coffee grounds and banana peels, lettuce, aloe and what is left of the TAC, s and the SST.
FLOWERING:
+ Palm Ash (0-1-30) 333gr x 50L Base Mix
+ Guano Murcielago (2-10-1) 166gr x 50L Base Mix
I bought a guano of Jamaican bat (8-29-2) recommended dose 100gr x 30L of soil.
the problem I am having with some plants is that they have the leaves on the yellow edges and burns I have measured the ph by taking 1 pieces of soil: 2 part of water and it gave me between ph9 and ph8.7 I took some Californian worms I put them in the pots I put a layer of humus d elombriz about 2cms wide and I have watered with TAC and SST (alfalfa and Corn) + humic and fulvic acids I think that my problem is with the alkalinity of the ash, I think it only remains for me to continue giving them TAC and SST and expect the microbiology to regulate the PH
BASE MIX:
+ 70% land that had been used and recycled only with earthworm humus
***********and biobizz and bioblom, of the all-mix type, already had perlite.
+ 30% Earthworm Humus and added perlite.
INCREASE:
I've just put worm humus and I'm testing with Neem flour
+ I have an earthworm in motion that I feed with coffee grounds and banana peels, lettuce, aloe and what is left of the TAC, s and the SST.
FLOWERING:
+ Palm Ash (0-1-30) 333gr x 50L Base Mix
+ Guano Murcielago (2-10-1) 166gr x 50L Base Mix
I bought a guano of Jamaican bat (8-29-2) recommended dose 100gr x 30L of soil.
the problem I am having with some plants is that they have the leaves on the yellow edges and burns I have measured the ph by taking 1 pieces of soil: 2 part of water and it gave me between ph9 and ph8.7 I took some Californian worms I put them in the pots I put a layer of humus d elombriz about 2cms wide and I have watered with TAC and SST (alfalfa and Corn) + humic and fulvic acids I think that my problem is with the alkalinity of the ash, I think it only remains for me to continue giving them TAC and SST and expect the microbiology to regulate the PH
