What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Living organic soil from start through recycling

Status
Not open for further replies.

think_fast

Member
Can i make a soil that can be recycled but not so hot that I only need to feed water and an occasional tea. I would like to be 100% organic but do more work then having a super soil.

ColorGRo,

If I can provide you with any advice it would be this: If you don't want to aim for a 'super soil', then just ensure that your humus material is 'super' quality, with other ingredients being less super if they must be so. IOW, source some premium worm castings, and some premium compost and use this at 1/3 total soil biomass. The general message in this thread is that get these two components down and it will make your life a whole lot easier. From what I understand, worm castings and compost cannot 'overheat' your soil, as long as they are sufficiently, umm, composted (i.e. aged like fine wine). You can grow plants in just worm castings.

But other more experienced growers would be able to give you better advice. I'm just trying to keep things moving here while the pros take a break :biggrin:
 
E.C. Organics,

If by solo cup you also mean beer/party cup, then hell ya! A great many growers use such a sized container for seedlings, organic or otherwise. Actually, as far as I understand you can never go too big as long as you maintain proper soil moisture levels (i.e. don't overwater).

Thanks for the answer, but my question was very specific to the mix being used since I have never used it. I don't want to plant my seedlings in 16 ounce solo cups of it if they are going to run out of nitrogen before the roots fully colonize the medium. Sorry for not being more specific in my post.
 

ColorGRo

Member
For the past 3 years at my house I have been throwing all the leaves from fall clean up into a fenced unused area in my back yard. Untouched just leaves amd grass and tree branches. now that i am starting organic do u yhink if i dig up yhe soil under it that it will be good
 

think_fast

Member
E.C. Organics,

The seedling mix you are referring to is sufficient to get your seedlings going in 16 ounce cups until the roots 'hug' the sides and they are ready for transplant - assuming you let it break down long enough. Teas only make this easier. These plants do not need much in the vegetative cycle, and even less in the very early stages of growth. Just don't flower in them and don't try to transplant when they're 24" tall lol - and you'll be fine. At the very worst, they will simply slow/stop growing if their medium is too small. They will only begin to yellow after you have noticed the slower growth. I have plants in 2.5" x 2.5" x 3" square pots that do just fine up to about 10" of height in a very similar mix.
 

SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
ICMag Donor
Veteran
For the past 3 years at my house I have been throwing all the leaves from fall clean up into a fenced unused area in my back yard. Untouched just leaves amd grass and tree branches. now that i am starting organic do u yhink if i dig up yhe soil under it that it will be good

You should have a nice layer of leaf mould. Great stuff, retains lots and lots of moisture but not lots of nutrients. So its good for seedling mixes and for adding organic matter to dry soil which will improve its moisture retention.

The dirt under will probably be improved by worm action and castings too. :smoke:

:smoke:
 

ColorGRo

Member
Thanks a lot. Ya i threw all the leaf and grass back there knowing it would decompose, my reason was to save money by not using 20 trash bags. Then got to organic gardening and was thinking about it. Would it be ok to dig some of that up during winter?
 

ColorGRo

Member
And thru all the sites I've been reading about organic gardening this thread is the best I have seen and I am glad i found it. Thank you to all the "teachers" for taking time out your day to share the knowledge. I really look forward to my next grow.
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
Sorry. Late to the party. Alfalfa pellets often have a binder that is high in sodum as well
That's true with the pellets that you find at PetSmart and other retail stores. You want to buy pellets at a feed store where the usual binder is molasses from sugar beets - that's the type of molasses they sell for livestock.

The best Alfalfa pellets are made using blackstrap molasses and that is the version that Gascanastan uses from an alfalfa farmer near Redmond, Oregon.

CC
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
Wondering if wheat Hulls are as good as rice hulls?

They're free from the flour mill and I just picked up 8-10 cu/ft.

Thanks in advance

Sure - it's another grass seed hull - Jerry that posts here uses buckwheat hulls because that's easy for him to find . Rice hulls would require a lot of transportation charges to get his area.

There's nothing magical or special about rice hulls per se but when they're available it's a very inexpensive material to use for composting, aerating worm bins, soil amendments and their main use - bedding for livestock and poultry.

Main areas of rice growing are California, Louisiana, Texas, Arkansas and South Carolina. If you live in Florida then you might want to look at another material.

Here are some other options again depending on where you live:

Barley hulls

Rye hulls - most of this is used to make 'dry molasses' for livestock - they spray the cheap sugar beet molasses on the hulls and allow them to dry. This product is used by organic gardeners outside the cannabis deal but they're cheap and some versions are certified organic

Wheat hulls - all versions, i.e. winter, spring, spelt, kamut, etc.

Oat hulls - talk about bragging rights, eh?

Again there is absolutely nothing special or magical about rice hulls - they're just cheap and effective.

CC
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
Not saying this is the cause of your mold, but if my notes serve me correctly the recommended dilution for using coconut water given in this thread is 1 parts coconut water to 15 parts water

The coconut water is far, far more than simply water - it is the embryo of the coconut endosperm. It is biologically active with everything that it will take to turn this embryo into an actual seed spread over several months. I do not believe that you could find another plant material that is as rich as this one - no flower, no seed, no fruit - nada. Young coconuts do not have any 'coconut meat' because that takes several months for the coconut water to attach itself to the internal sides of the shell and as that solidifies and hardens it becomes the stuff you eat.

Using a 1:15 mix ration would be at the upper end.

CC
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
Harmless Harvest 100% Raw & Organic Coconut Water
NOTHING ADDED - NEVER HEATED

We source our unique coconuts from small organic agroforestry farms, then use a cutting-edge, heatless, high-pressure process for food safety and extended shelf life in your fridge. The result is the outstanding flavor and nutrition of raw and organic without the need for unnatural and harmful additives
There is a search page for a local retailer.

harmless-harvest.jpg
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
Put them into a Mason jar, cover about 3x with pure water and let that sit for 18 hours or so.

Drain completely. They will sprout in a day or so - rinse with clear water every day if you wish. It isn't mandatory but making sure that each seed is wet is a good goal.

With the Purple variety I was given I got damn close to 100% germination. This procedure applies for any grain or legume you choose to use.

CC
 

think_fast

Member
Since we are on the topic of enzyme teas - what about store bought bean sprouts? Packaged or unpackaged. Ive got half a pound in the fridge and I'm tempted to give it a try.

Any thoughts?
 
B

BlueJayWay

Sprouting your own will be best and its cheap and easy. I have used store bought organic alfalfa sprouts.

I would look up the company online - find out where they originate, what may have been used in sprouting, treated with a preservative for long distance shipping etc etc etc. are the root tips of all or most of the sprouts brown and shriveled?
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
Downside to using commercial bean sprouts is that because of ecoli concerns these go through a wash cycle where chlorine is used. Same with bagged salads - mmmm! Good eats!

Sprouting your own seeds is the best way to go because you have control on everything.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top