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LED newbie advice pls

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
If we're talking cobs(like CXBs), I believe 50W/sqft is a bit overkill if CO2 is not added to the room.
My little experience suggests 40W/sqft is more than enough, 30W/sqft is also well enough for good g/W figures.

depends on the umoles, not the watts, but BASICALLY, you're right
 

acespicoli

Well-known member


If I have a LED that is 95% efficient @ 600watts
You have a Fluorescent that is %50 efficient @ 1000 watts.
Does it mater if you have more watts than me?

watts/lumen or more accurately watt/PAR is what matters to me.
Photosynthetically active radiation, often abbreviated PAR,
designates the spectral range (wave band) of solar radiation
from 400 to 700 nanometers that photosynthetic organisms are able to use in the process of photosynthesis.

btw LED is up to some thing like watt/330lu ? (cree)

Thats a older efficiency chart :xmasnut:

How much does it cost to run a 1000 watt HPS per hour ?
1000 watt/hours (check my math please!)
18/6 - 18hr*$0.12 =$2.16*30days=$64.80/mo
12/12 - 12hr*$0.12=$1.44 *30days= $43.20/mo

Any one else have the cost offset for LED to pay for itself?
 

gizmo666

Active member
this went way above my head once the calculations came out
i just grow the stuff
as simple as it comes
i think i'll stick to what i know and thats hps and cfl's they've never let me down yet lol
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
this went way above my head once the calculations came out
i just grow the stuff
as simple as it comes
i think i'll stick to what i know and thats hps and cfl's they've never let me down yet lol

Know what you mean KISS ! Keep it simple stupid....

LED is awesome plain and simple.


I used to use t12 cool white
And hps 600
Now I'm using LED I'm staying there!

They are amazing there is no comparison IMO :tiphat
Invest $200 you won't regret it!
 

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=70564&pictureid=1684781View Image

If I have a LED that is 95% efficient @ 600watts
You have a Fluorescent that is %50 efficient @ 1000 watts.
Does it mater if you have more watts than me?

watts/lumen or more accurately watt/PAR is what matters to me.
Photosynthetically active radiation, often abbreviated PAR,
designates the spectral range (wave band) of solar radiation
from 400 to 700 nanometers that photosynthetic organisms are able to use in the process of photosynthesis.

btw LED is up to some thing like watt/330lu ? (cree)

Thats a older efficiency chart :xmasnut:

How much does it cost to run a 1000 watt HPS per hour ?
1000 watt/hours (check my math please!)
18/6 - 18hr*$0.12 =$2.16*30days=$64.80/mo
12/12 - 12hr*$0.12=$1.44 *30days= $43.20/mo

Any one else have the cost offset for LED to pay for itself?

LED are still in the ~ 50% efficiency range.

Where they shine is all light is directed at the canopy while 90%+ heat rises above the heat sink (instead of radiating at the canopy) and easier to extract if needed
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
LED are still in the ~ 50% efficiency range.

Where they shine is all light is directed at the canopy while 90%+ heat rises above the heat sink (instead of radiating at the canopy) and easier to extract if needed

PetFlora you were right! My numbers were off a little?

en.wikipedia. org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy#Lighting_efficiency (link needs repair by user) TOS

LED 260–300 38.1–43.9%
T5 tube 70–104.2 10–15.63%
HPS 85–150 12–22%

Luminous efficacy is a measure of how well a light source produces visible light. It is the ratio of luminous flux to power, measured in lumens per watt in SI.
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
this went way above my head once the calculations came out
i just grow the stuff
as simple as it comes
i think i'll stick to what i know and thats hps and cfl's they've never let me down yet lol

Gizmo...use what you have and save the money. Then when it poops out, you will have had time to think it over and save money.

I have never used HPS, only LED, so I am biased, however everything mentioned in this thread from other members touting the LED are true. The cost savings is there. The heat, or lack thereof, is a bonus. The technology is only going to get better.

Good luck,
Tri_Cho_Me
 

gizmo666

Active member
Gizmo...use what you have and save the money. Then when it poops out, you will have had time to think it over and save money.

I have never used HPS, only LED, so I am biased, however everything mentioned in this thread from other members touting the LED are true. The cost savings is there. The heat, or lack thereof, is a bonus. The technology is only going to get better.

Good luck,
Tri_Cho_Me
dam good words there
thanks
 

Phychotron

Member
terrible. Good for maybe a 1'x1' area but even then the par ratings are already below 700 u-mol at 24". 423 at the corners of the 1x1 grid. No way it'll cover a 3x3 effectively.

Sorry, cheap LED's are not worth it. They all suck
 

Phychotron

Member
All I see are components. DIY is usually cheaper but you need to spend a bunch of money on small things here and there. Lenses, drivers, heat sinks, frame, wire, shrink tube, connectors, hardware, shipping on everything. How much $ will it take to actually get that board up and running a viable design?

And at $75 each that light board is way too expensive of a module. You'll have to learn how to solder SMD's to fix it. Your probably not going to be able to find the same diodes for it so you'll just have to salvage the first broken one to fix your others. It looks really tight and hard to work with the spacing. Maybe its better than an expensive COB since it spreads the light out and you just have to look at it as a disposable component but it just seems like such a waste to not be able to fix it easily.
 
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