Lazyman's 16KW Headbanger

[Lazyman]

Thanks ya'll, yeah California is nice, but to be honest I have been growing for like 6 years, and feel like I am the late one to the party. The green rush started ages ago, and with Oakland legalizing industrial production (tons per year) I think the market here is in for an unpleasant ride.

Gonzo: Blumats, I use the regular ones, I use one per 2-gallon pot, but on 4 gallon pots i find 2 work better. I haven't tried the long ones (Maxis) but am told they work better on larger pots like that as they take their sample from deeper in the pot. As it is a regular blumat in a 4-gallon will drip constantly, never turning off. I would imagine the Maxis would do the same.

 

[Lazyman]

OK folks, update time:

Been converting the veg room, I rounded up a couple ballasts and another couple bare sockets, and my buddy made some shelves for me to convert to a stadium. Hung two bare 1KW MH bulbs from the respective centers of their canopies, and extended the veg room exhaust duct from the flower room to my last external 12" duct collar. Now I have over 4000CFM exhaust, so I opened up my old passive intakes for some more fresh air.

On the left side is some grape stompers, some PMN and some Blue Dragons:

On the right side, WOW at the back and PMN up front:

So i took 2 of my 8 bulb 4' fluoros and moved my moms into my old drying room (I have another room to use for drying)

Sandwiched the girls between the lights, plenty of room now!

Heres 3 smaller GS moms and 2 Jackpot moms, 1 week after having 45 clones ea cut off them:

The GS mom in the middle got marked and fed some GH Ancient Earth, experimenting.

Heres the GS girls in flower, growing fast and lookin good, here they are at 1 week stretch, on AN Sensi Bloom, Bud Ignitor, and some DM Zone. Foliar sprayed with Liquid light, Floramite and Eagle20EW. I swapped a couple of the HPS for MH too:

Here's a shot of the GS with their two moms towering behind them:




Double purples up front (with the two GS moms in green pots) and Jackpots in the back against the wall:

Double Purple (Grandaddy Urkle) at 5 weeks:

Row of DP's at 5 weeks, the fans are all yellowing but the buds are still nice and green, can't feed anymore without nute burn:

Jackpots at 5 weeks:

2 PMN moms on left, the rest are Jackpots at 5 weeks:

The monster Jackpot in a 4 gallon pot, I'm switching to biugger pots because of this one plant:

Jackpot at 5 weeks:

Better idea of how big she is, not bad for a measly 4 week veg and in soil:

Jackpot frost, also not bad for 5 weeks:

I got the DP's pretty frosty too:

Night folks!

 

[Sandnut]

nice pics man, but I can see your face in one of them... just tought id let you know..

 

[Guest 18340]

I'll say it again, you dont F around do you Lazyman. Outstanding work bro, all the way

 

[Lazyman]

nice pics man, but I can see your face in one of them... just tought id let you know..

Hmm which one? I had my buddy face away from the camera for that one shot, but was there a reflection or something?

I'll say it again, you dont F around do you Lazyman. Outstanding work bro, all the way

Hehe hell no, I have been trying to spend more time in the room lately to make sure all is running as efficiently as possible, I hope it pays off this crop! thanks again Evlme!

 

[Strainhunter]

Hmm which one? I had my buddy face away from the camera for that one shot, but was there a reflection or something?

.....

I think Sandnut means he is starting to see your face in the buds you pictured.....

Edit:
Kinda like this one, remember?

 

[Lazyman]

I dunno, someone else left me a note they saw it too, guessing a mod deleted it already?

 

[dtfsux]

looks good. I think the stadium setup is going to help alot.

I would love to see you do multilevel vert grow, like a hexagon

 

[Flying High]

Bad Ass!!! I like the Stadium of Veg.

Do you use DM Penetrator/saturator when you spray insecticides? When I checked the ph of my mixed Floramite/penetrator solution the ph was above 10! I think this may have been to blame for the ineffectiveness of a Floramite spray I applied a couple of rounds ago. I figured the bottle I bought from Ebay was expired or watered down; but in hindsight, pH may have been the culprit.

H

 

[Greyskull]

Hmm which one? I had my buddy face away from the camera for that one shot, but was there a reflection or something?

there was a shot in the middle of the plant pics (after/below the veg stadium area) where your homey with the white shirt ballcap and beard was to the left not centered but plain view

 

[Lazyman]

Gotcha, thanks guys, pic deleted now!

 

[Lazyman]

looks good. I think the stadium setup is going to help alot.

I would love to see you do multilevel vert grow, like a hexagon

Yep I'd love to do one too, I just don't have the ceiling height, and to run Blumats I still have to have the top res above the top tier. Gonna need some TALL ceilings to pull it off but it should be fun. I also talked to KB a bit about doing a stadium of MPB's, hehe

Bad Ass!!! I like the Stadium of Veg.

Do you use DM Penetrator/saturator when you spray insecticides? When I checked the ph of my mixed Floramite/penetrator solution the ph was above 10! I think this may have been to blame for the ineffectiveness of a Floramite spray I applied a couple of rounds ago. I figured the bottle I bought from Ebay was expired or watered down; but in hindsight, pH may have been the culprit.

H

Yep I always use Saturator with foliar sprays, works well.

Interesting about your spray being so basic, but yeah it's usually a good idea to ph the mix before letting it fly.

Mixed floramite spray is only good for about 24-36 hours, after that it's junk. Just so ya'll know! Mix only what you can spray today!

 

[SkizOflan]

Hey Lazy,

I've seen you around, always great beta thank you so much. I recently set up blumats on most of my veg and i'm experimenting with 13 in soil right now in 3 gal black plastic grow bags. I was running plain r/o until week 2 when i started adding a little molasses and began to notice a significant yellowing of the leaves. I've since used some earth juice bloom and b'cuzz pk 13/14, but the yellowing and skinny curled under leaves has not improved significantly. It looked rather similar to your photos less the yellowing. I was wondering what type of feeding schedule should i be using with my 13 ladies in soil with gravity fed blumats? You mentioned a feed/starve system with graded saturation levels, but what about your shut-off valve technique? I've been working mostly with coco and this is my first soil trial as i was given them by a patient, so i'm feeling like a fish out of water.. do i follow an 8 week program similar to coco, or are there fewer stages? I usually use H&G in coco plus several additives. I believe the genetics are 'master kush' but they were advertised to me as 'santa cruz og'. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions!

p.s. i have the blumats dialed so that the bags are well saturated through and through, but i haven't yet done any 'starve' period without water via a shutoff valve. Great idea.

 

[Lazyman]

Hmm, send me a link to some pics of your girls and I'll take a look, if you're in veg you shouldnt be adding PK anything. Just grow ferts, not bloom ferts yet. In veg I turn off the reservoir so the blumats are not used for the first couple weeks now, in order to let the plants dry out thoroughly after their initial watering-in. After they start to wilt they get a little handwater, which comes from the same res.

Now for the veg res I'm using:

H&G Roots Excelurator
Superthrive
Vitalatea (new)
Liquid Worm castings (new)
Dyna Grow Silica
Technaflora MagiCal
H&G Drip clean

Stopped using H2O2 and DM Zone in veg.

When they start to look light green I add the AN Sensi Grow A/B as needed.

For flower in coco I like to keep feeding grow nutes at half strength for 2-3 weeks after the flip, along with about half bloom nutes. PK boosters I don't start til about week 4-5.

What kind of soil do you use and how long have they been in it? What size pots too?

Do you have a good root ball or have they been in pretty wet soil most of their life? If they've always been wet they probably need more food with each watering as they get so much water.

 

[SkizOflan]

Sorry, i wasn't too specific. The 13 gals are in FFOF soil in 3 gallon black plastic grow bags. All thru veg they received only r/o and the occasional tap for the carbonates hand watered, but when flowering started i put them all on the blumats. Thus, i added molasses at week 2 flower and observed the yellowing as stated in the previous post. They do have serious root balls like i've never seen in my experience with coco, soil rocks! I'll have to get some photos up to show you exactly what's going on, but my previous post about the 13/14 etc. was during flowering, not veg. Could you tell me more about your flowering feed schedule? I know in coco you feed the same mix throughout the week (i.e. similar concentration, ph..) but in soil is there a different approach? I was thinking like a heavy feed two days, then a few days r/o, then a day or two dry like a feed, rinse, starve program? Any help is greatly appreciated, i'm slowly dialing in my new two room 10k flip/flop. You're gonna love this room when you see some pics although it's quite different from yours

Also, i've been having significant ph fluctuations (usually only a rise) in my 30gal reservoirs when i get to some of my flower mixes and i'm not sure why, i often have to make daily adjustments sometimes in excess of .4 ph. I'll post my full flower recipes later on tonight, now it's time to finish some trimming hehe.. gotta love monthly harvests!

 

[Lazyman]

Ph rising in the res is a good thing, means the girls are taking up lots of food. I don't ever like to starve the girls, causes stress and stress is bad. Since your soil is kinda old now you can treat it much like coco, there are few nutes left in it so its largely inert. I like to feed a constant low dose of food, and when they start to burn you can do a flush and taper the nutes back again.

So in flower I do the following:

Week 1: AN Sensi Bloom and Grow, 50/50 each, plus Bud Ignitor and some carbs
Week 2: AN Sensi Bloom and Grow, 50/50 each, plus Bud Ignitor and some carbs
Week 3: AN Sensi Bloom and Grow, 75//25 each, plus Snowstorm Ultra and some carbs
Week 4 AN Sensi bloom only, plus some Atami Bloombastic OR Koolbloom powder and some carbs
Week 5 Koolbloom powder and some carbs, and some Purple Maxx and Gravity (foliar fed)
Week 6 Koolbloom powder only and carbs, plus another foliar treatment from week 5
Week 7. KB powder and carbs, another foliar spray as above
Week 8 dump res and add AN Final Phase as directed on bottle, (its a LOT) and run til finish.

Hope that helps! Yep love the monthly harvests, I'm new to it but OH so happy about it! lol

 

[Peat]

In veg I turn off the reservoir so the blumats are not used for the first couple weeks now, in order to let the plants dry out thoroughly after their initial watering-in. After they start to wilt they get a little handwater, which comes from the same res.

Yet another goodie!

(FWIW, I like to water 'em just before they start to show some wilting.)

I was wondering about the transition from the wet/dry handwatering, to the constant state of dampness provided by the Blumats...

I s'poze some plants are sensative to the switch?

 

[Lazyman]

Good question Peat! The BLumats have taught me a TON about watering, if nothing else they are a great educational tool. What I always wanted to know, is when do plants need water, want water, etc and what effect does it have on growth?

With Blumats I've found some answers.

In early veg, plants should be allowed to dry out to encourage root growth, when I didn't they were very slow growing for two weeks. Even keeping the pots lightly damp (with the Blumats) was way too much water.

In later veg, once I see roots pokin out of the Smartpots, I know how happy the rootball is. Once I see a pretty thick layer of white roots pokin out I consider that to be the ideal moisture level, and the plants grow faster if kept at that level.

Chronic underwatering seems to make very little difference in plant health and vigor. Some of the healthiest plants surprise me with how light thir pots are. I don't provide any runoff in the saucers, so a tap of the foot gives a good idea of how light the pot is.

Plants in flower are also not terribly affected by water, whether heavy or light growth remains about the same. When I see one wilt I open its valve a little bit and pour a pitcher out of its barrel over the soil, within 20 minutes they perk back up. At the end of flower I like to let the plants dry out, so no water for the last 3-5 days before chop. Speeds drying by a couple days.

 

[L-Immortal]

Hey LM

Didn’t see a response to your ? A few pages back about the grape ape genetics, so this may be redundant but here it is anyways

Grape Ape
(Indica Dominant)

Creator: Apothecary Genetics

Genetics: Afghani crossed with Skunk #1

Effect: Strong Indica - Great for body pain - Long lasting medical effect.


Flowering indoor: 7-8 weeks, with a yield of 700 to 800 gr/ sqm.
Flowering outdoor: Ready in end of September and Mid of October

 

[Lazyman]

Awesome L-I, thanks much! I have smoked it before (outdoor) but this is my first time growing it. A friend of mine says he has a cut that does 2# a light so if mine don't pan out I can get one of his.