Personally, I don't have enough confidence in my health care to enjoy waves of consequence.
That was what stopped my own medium-big wave surfing.
I guess people that 'charge' don't worry so much about that but, I have noticed, as a geeky surf spectator, that almost all of the pros and big wave guys, especially people surfing reefs, end up on trips to the ER.
The sharks in the water I can handle.
Waking up and being told I owe $100K to a human shark/ Shylock ... not sure I could handle that wipe-out.
Pipeline has waves and the contest period started today Dec. 8.