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Jacks 5-12-26

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
If Calcium Nitrate is added after the base nutrient, it will chelate some of the minerals in Jacks Hydro. This is a 2 part nutrient program and as always with any A + B feed program, the A is always Calcium Nitrate.

I fucking love Jacks!

turbo

This is incorrect. The Jacks bag I have says to add the 5-12-26 first then any magnesium sulphate. Then finally to add the calcium nitrate. This is so that the sulphates have been dispersed and so that the calcium does not precipitate out as calcium sulphate by attaching to the sulphur.
 

Me2

Member
Slightly inaccurate, calcium nitrate doesnt contain any chelating agent.
A few grams of calcium nitrate, mag sulphate or jacks in a gallon of water isnt concentrated enough to form preciptates. Stock solutions are a different kettle of fish.
 

Desert Hydro

Active member
Veteran
i never get any leftovers in the bottom of my res. well i do for about 10 min and then it dissolves completely. i love it, its cheap and it works great.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
i never get any leftovers in the bottom of my res. well i do for about 10 min and then it dissolves completely. i love it, its cheap and it works great.

I believe what you see on the bottom is Monopotassium phosphate. This is undisolved fertilizer.

What is mentioned above is calcium sulphate, or gypsum which has a very low solubility rate. The gypsum is formed when the calcium combines with sulphur. Sulphur is use with many of the trace minerals so that the trace mineral disolve easily in solution. The chelating agents keeps the trace minerals from combining and precipitating out of solution. It is kind of like a hand wrapping around the mineral and covering all the points that can attach to another atom. Chealating agents are more expensive than sulphates so that is why we get two part solutions. Plus you get the sulphur that you need in your fertilizer by using a sulphate and not a chelating agent.
 
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Me2

Member
You can dissolve almost 30oz of MKP in a gallon of water, so there wont be any sitting on the bottom.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
You can dissolve almost 30oz of MKP in a gallon of water, so there wont be any sitting on the bottom.

This is true unless it has not had enough time to fully disolve then you may have some on the bottom till it can fully disolve. Many things can affect the speed at which nutrients disolve. The two biggest are temperature and PH. Raise the temperature and it will disolve more readily. Lower it and it will take more time for it o disolve. PH is more tricky as some things need higher PH and some need lower. Not sure which one MKP is.

I generally make a concentrate out of my Jacks and Calcium nitrate in advance of using it. Then I pour it into my mix bucket in small doses of concentrate and I have nothing undisolved. Speeds things up for me as my water is almost always cold when I mix.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
I looked up MKP's solubility at different tempuratures and here is a example of the role remp plays on solubility of MKP.

At 77 degrees you can disolve 834 gramms per gallon.
At 86 degrees you can disolve 1062 grams per gallon.

This is a difference of 227 grams or around a half pound per gallon. That is a big difference and clearly shows the effect that tempurature has on the solubility of your fertilizers.

If you are having some undisolved fertilizer in you jacks you can raise the tempurature to speed it up.
 

Me2

Member
Using 1:100 stock solutions will solve the solubility issues and give you more accurate results. Always use pure water for stock solutions, using tapwater will contaminate them.

If you put 834g of mkp in a gallon of pure water, you`d have almost 50,000ppm of P and over 62,000ppm of K ;) Solubility isnt an issue with room temperature water and normal nute strengths.
 

Dr.RedWhite

Active member
Anybody have the film that covers the solution in the res using Jacks? I run a small aerator to keep it from forming.
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
The film may even be beneficial, helping to keep the solution from evaporating.

My guess is it's an anaerobic bacteria forming a mass, so probably not beneficial. Besides, your res should be covered to block light so algae doesn't grow, as well as prevent unnecessary evaporation.
 

whereyeaat

New member
So basically I have been wondering about whether to use a dif nute in promix as opposed to a straight water hydro like flood and drain. I emailed JR Peters and asked there recomendation, this is the response I got:

Thanks your interest in our products. I am going to answer your questions, but my disclaimer is we don’t formulate or trial our fertilizers for or on medical marijuana. I have included two different fert recommendations. The first is for you Promix bags. The second is for a true hydro setup. I would recommend the 17-4-17 as your grower, it is designed for growing in RO or very pure water. You may need to have some Cal-trate or Cal Nitrate on hand, also as your crop tends to be pretty calcium hungry. If you tell me a little more about how you water/ feed I can give you exact amounts. Please email me or give me a call.

Veg: 200 ppm of Nitrogen 17-4-17
Blooming (First week): 300ppm of Nitrogen of 10-30-20 + extra Epsom ( 4oz/ 100 gallons)
(2nd week) back to vegetative
Alternate between 2 formulations till the end of the growing cycle.



Hydroponic

Veg: 150 ppm of Nitrogen 5-12-26 +Cal Nitrate.
Bloom: Blooming (First week): 300ppm of Nitrogen of 10-30-20 + extra Epsom ( 4oz/ 100 gallons)
(2nd week) back to 150 ppm of vegetative formula
Alternate between 2 formulations till the end of the growing cycle.



After and another email and phone call I am still unsure. With the 17-4-17 the tech on the phone told me I would have an NPK of 150-15.45-124.5 and cal-mag of 26.4-13.2. Seems a little off to me but she assured me it would work very well especially with RO as that particular blend is meant for RO. I asked why she recommends 300 ppm of N for flower and she said that was just so the PK would be High as well, and to use it every 3rd feeding and my true N value in the media and plants would even out.

Iv never been too fussy with ferts, I was on the Lucas forever in ebb and flow and rock wool but for various reason will be switching to 5gal smarties of promix. Jacks is just so cheap and comes highly recommended.

Does anyone have any person experience or can someone with more knowledge on the subject then me perhaps enlighten me a little bit?

here are the links to the various ferts; (maybe someone can work out the NKPCaMg and so on of them for me as I have no idea how haha)

17-4-17 http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jac...-Water-LX.html

5-26-26 http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jac...ydroponic.html

10-30-20 (bloom booster) http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jac...m-Booster.html

Im curious to hear peoples thoughts on if the 17-417 has enough P,Ca,Mg and other micros. Its supposed to be an all in one and 1 bag is cheaper then 2 obviously!
 
J

jagerjamie12

very good grow :) cannot wait to see how my first grow turns out. So can you use this for hydro rockwool grow (Please excuse if i come of dumb still learning).
 
its funny how this is a standard hydroponic mix for greenhouse crops. It works on everything. No need for pk boosters or 5 different bottles of snake oil. Hands down the best fertilizer for the price. 5-11-26 plus cal -nit equal parts for grow and more 5-11-26 for flower. If anything you would benefit from cal-mag and iron supplement with this mix.
 

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