G
guest1ab
I thought I saw someone talking about this the other day, some kind of freebie they got somewhere. I thought it was Advanced Nutes but I could be wrong.
Anyway thanks.
Anyway thanks.
I think you might be thinking of BushMaster, it is supposed to make stretchy plants more compact/stack nugs better, but I couldnt tell you first hand if it works or not. I do however, know that if you do use the stuff, you WONT be able to re-use your medium assuming that you would be. I got a bubba a while back that was put into some coco that had been hit with BM and that thing grew maybe 8" in 3 months. hope that helps, might be good for the more stretchy strains like og
Bushmaster works. I have never used more than 3ml a gallon. It is VERY powerful. Be careful
G
guest1ab
does it do anything to your yield?
M
medi-useA
apparently one can shock the plant with a shot of alcohol th@ will inhibit stretching...
muA
muA
Telegraphist.
Member
Blue light instead of HPS
Will not stop it but help keep it right down
Will not stop it but help keep it right down
No sure how it really affects yield. I am still learning to grow(have been for two years) and am always switching strains so have not really done side by side with Bush master. I will tell you that i have grown fine looking and decent yielding plants with it. As nicely yielding as others as far as i could tell.
I use it at 2-3ml per Gallon as soon as i switch to 12/12. feed with it for two days in a row and then stop it. It is recommended to do a water soak after the last time to get it out of the medium, but i have never done that. Pretty much stops them in their tracks.
READ THE BOTTLE AND DONT USE TOO MUCH. HEARD MANY STORIES OF IT SERIOUSLY DAMAGING PLANTS. Never mine though
I use it at 2-3ml per Gallon as soon as i switch to 12/12. feed with it for two days in a row and then stop it. It is recommended to do a water soak after the last time to get it out of the medium, but i have never done that. Pretty much stops them in their tracks.
READ THE BOTTLE AND DONT USE TOO MUCH. HEARD MANY STORIES OF IT SERIOUSLY DAMAGING PLANTS. Never mine though
G
guest1ab
yeah I think that's the stuff I heard about.
yeah I've heard of that too!
yeah I've heard a few times to keep them under a higher blue spectrum the first two weeks 4 the same purpose.
what's in it, any idea? Is it legal in CA? It sounds scary!
H
htownblowskush
its made in CA^^^I have a box full in my garage.
1.5% ASCOPHYLLUM NODOSUM (SEA KELP) is the active ingredient. Sea Kelp is organic and does shorten up plants a bit so Im guessing thats whats doing the real work.
1.5% ASCOPHYLLUM NODOSUM (SEA KELP) is the active ingredient. Sea Kelp is organic and does shorten up plants a bit so Im guessing thats whats doing the real work.
Sea Kelp is in Bushmaster but i don't think there is a chance that is what is doing it. It is NOT an organic product and has a chemical or two in it that is doing the shortening.
fishinnutt
Member
Advanced Nutrients Bud Blood is supposed to stop stretching and kick start blooming, definitely not organic though.
bushmaster
bushmaster
bushmaster works but for me it signifantly reduced resin. short plants dense buds but very little resin.i wont use it again. if you try it maybe cut the dose and test it one a few before you ruin a crop like i did. paid like 100$ for the damn shit. i poured in out in my backyard. good luck. i think the hidden chem was paclobuterol or something close that sounds like that. not sure
bushmaster
bushmaster works but for me it signifantly reduced resin. short plants dense buds but very little resin.i wont use it again. if you try it maybe cut the dose and test it one a few before you ruin a crop like i did. paid like 100$ for the damn shit. i poured in out in my backyard. good luck. i think the hidden chem was paclobuterol or something close that sounds like that. not sure
I know this was a joke, but im wondering if it could be used to slow down grass growth. Hate cutting that shit.
===
On another note, BM allegedly stays with the medium forever. (If you try to plant clones in reused substrate, the clones will be stunted).
I use phosoload (im not sure its still on the market, but it was on ebay). Its an anologus product with similar claimed results.
Ive never read of problems reusing substrate, or a lack of resin production with phosoload. (i dont know if im spelling that right)
reducing the difference in day and night temperatures helps keep plants shorter.
Taken from High Times' 2006 Seed Guide.
What's The Dif?
Manipulating Plant Performance with Professional Temperature Control.
By Proffessor Potter.
For cannabis,the best DIF for day/night temperatures is probably zero if you grow in a medium-light garden and maintain day temperatures of 80F - that is,day and night time temperatures should be the same.In a low-light garden,a negative DIF may actually have a detrimental effect,as seen in chrysanthemums.A possitive DIF has traditionally been recommended for indoor cannabis horticulture,and it may be desirable for a low-light garden.But if you have free reign to control temperature and you grow in a medium- or high - light garden,you might try a DIF of -2 degrees celsius or -3 degrees celsius.But given the cost and difficulty of heating and cooling,a high-light growing area-especially one pushing the plants with supplementary Co2 and higher day temperatures-might require and alternative.
There is an alternative to using the DIF as a function of DT and NT.This technique doesn't have an official acronym,but in commercial growing it's referred to as "cold-air dump" *CAD).This is when the temperature in the growroom is lowered after sunrise (lights on) to below the NT for one or two hours.The CAD relies on the plant's response to the change between night and day.Stem elongation has been found to be at it's highest rate at the end of the dark period and the beginning of the light period.Cooling during only the first two hours of the day dramatically stem elongation in poinsettias.This technique is usually the most economocal and is used more frequently in commercial flower production.
In a cannabis growing operation that I am familiar with,a more refined version of CAD is being used with excellent results.This "invisible greenhouse" hydroponics operation uses 85 percent of available sunlight,with a supplemental 400-watt high-pressure sodium light and Co2 fetilization up to 1200 ppm.With the high-light and Co2 fertilization,dat temperatures are run at 85F-90F and the growth rate is outstanding.Because of the high DT,raising the NT to create a negative DIF would be uneconomical and would probably stress the plants.In this operation,the day temperature is extended for several hours after dusk,then gradually diminished to a night temperature of 27 degrees celsius.One hour befor "dawn" (lights on),it is raised to 30 degrees celsius and then lowered to 25 degrees celsius to stimulate a CAD,before returning to the day temperature of 30 degrees celsius.The effect is most notable with sativa cultivars,but indica cultivars also do exceptionally well in this system.Internode length is shortened,and the flowering tops are dense and compact but very large.This is only one of the horticultural techniques used in the operation;however,the effect is noticeable and seperable from other influences in this high-yeild system.
Manipulating the day and night temperatures is a proven method in the world of horticulture,has helped reduce the use of chemical growth regulators,and is used to increase productivity and assist with timing crops to the day and hour.The cold-air dump similarly is coming into it's own as a cropping method.So DT/NT or CAD,what's the DIF?For cannabis,either can be used to improve plant performance,depending on what growing parameters are used.It's just a matter of how you do that funky stuff you do.
__________________
Taken from High Times' 2006 Seed Guide.
What's The Dif?
Manipulating Plant Performance with Professional Temperature Control.
By Proffessor Potter.
For cannabis,the best DIF for day/night temperatures is probably zero if you grow in a medium-light garden and maintain day temperatures of 80F - that is,day and night time temperatures should be the same.In a low-light garden,a negative DIF may actually have a detrimental effect,as seen in chrysanthemums.A possitive DIF has traditionally been recommended for indoor cannabis horticulture,and it may be desirable for a low-light garden.But if you have free reign to control temperature and you grow in a medium- or high - light garden,you might try a DIF of -2 degrees celsius or -3 degrees celsius.But given the cost and difficulty of heating and cooling,a high-light growing area-especially one pushing the plants with supplementary Co2 and higher day temperatures-might require and alternative.
There is an alternative to using the DIF as a function of DT and NT.This technique doesn't have an official acronym,but in commercial growing it's referred to as "cold-air dump" *CAD).This is when the temperature in the growroom is lowered after sunrise (lights on) to below the NT for one or two hours.The CAD relies on the plant's response to the change between night and day.Stem elongation has been found to be at it's highest rate at the end of the dark period and the beginning of the light period.Cooling during only the first two hours of the day dramatically stem elongation in poinsettias.This technique is usually the most economocal and is used more frequently in commercial flower production.
In a cannabis growing operation that I am familiar with,a more refined version of CAD is being used with excellent results.This "invisible greenhouse" hydroponics operation uses 85 percent of available sunlight,with a supplemental 400-watt high-pressure sodium light and Co2 fetilization up to 1200 ppm.With the high-light and Co2 fertilization,dat temperatures are run at 85F-90F and the growth rate is outstanding.Because of the high DT,raising the NT to create a negative DIF would be uneconomical and would probably stress the plants.In this operation,the day temperature is extended for several hours after dusk,then gradually diminished to a night temperature of 27 degrees celsius.One hour befor "dawn" (lights on),it is raised to 30 degrees celsius and then lowered to 25 degrees celsius to stimulate a CAD,before returning to the day temperature of 30 degrees celsius.The effect is most notable with sativa cultivars,but indica cultivars also do exceptionally well in this system.Internode length is shortened,and the flowering tops are dense and compact but very large.This is only one of the horticultural techniques used in the operation;however,the effect is noticeable and seperable from other influences in this high-yeild system.
Manipulating the day and night temperatures is a proven method in the world of horticulture,has helped reduce the use of chemical growth regulators,and is used to increase productivity and assist with timing crops to the day and hour.The cold-air dump similarly is coming into it's own as a cropping method.So DT/NT or CAD,what's the DIF?For cannabis,either can be used to improve plant performance,depending on what growing parameters are used.It's just a matter of how you do that funky stuff you do.
__________________
AgronomyDomine
Member
Hi all,
Just wanted to share a bit more info on the use of alcohol(ethanol or methanol) to increase plant productivity and subsequently lessen stretching and increase branching. I first used alcohol based ferts while working at a commercial orchid nursery. On several occasions I had the opportunity to converse with the manufacturer of our fertilizer. He discussed the use of his and similar fertilizers in plants having C3 or CAM photosynthesis pathways. Apparently it has no positive effects on C4 plants. Lucky for us cannabis is a C3 plant! He had a couple warnings to me though, the first was that if the plants being treated did not have enough sun/artificial light and CO2 you were wasting your money on his ferts, second if used above the specified rates of 0.1-5.0% alcohol it had a negative effect on growth and possibly death, third the alcohol in his ferts was methanol and there for highly toxic to human and animal life in the concentrate form(50-67% by volume). So if you feel like being the mad scientist
here is a link to the patent for the fertilizer. Oh yeah and as an added bonus plants treated with this type of fertilizer have a greater tolerance to high temperatures and intense light. I have never used this fertilizer on cannabis, but I do have an old bottle that is still good and could do a side by side comparison with some clones later on if anybody is interested in this method.
AgD
http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?wo=1999023878&IA=US1998024008&DISPLAY=STATUS
edit: found another interesting link that was listed in another thread in this forum here is the post with the link for a foliar boost product with methanol and tricontanol(another interesting growth regulator/stress inducer).
Just wanted to share a bit more info on the use of alcohol(ethanol or methanol) to increase plant productivity and subsequently lessen stretching and increase branching. I first used alcohol based ferts while working at a commercial orchid nursery. On several occasions I had the opportunity to converse with the manufacturer of our fertilizer. He discussed the use of his and similar fertilizers in plants having C3 or CAM photosynthesis pathways. Apparently it has no positive effects on C4 plants. Lucky for us cannabis is a C3 plant! He had a couple warnings to me though, the first was that if the plants being treated did not have enough sun/artificial light and CO2 you were wasting your money on his ferts, second if used above the specified rates of 0.1-5.0% alcohol it had a negative effect on growth and possibly death, third the alcohol in his ferts was methanol and there for highly toxic to human and animal life in the concentrate form(50-67% by volume). So if you feel like being the mad scientist
here is a link to the patent for the fertilizer. Oh yeah and as an added bonus plants treated with this type of fertilizer have a greater tolerance to high temperatures and intense light. I have never used this fertilizer on cannabis, but I do have an old bottle that is still good and could do a side by side comparison with some clones later on if anybody is interested in this method.AgD
http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?wo=1999023878&IA=US1998024008&DISPLAY=STATUS
edit: found another interesting link that was listed in another thread in this forum here is the post with the link for a foliar boost product with methanol and tricontanol(another interesting growth regulator/stress inducer).
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