thing
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100% agree. Jay, do you by chance know a general pH or NPK of red clays? I always top dress my Sativas with it and they really love it, but I've never understood why.
I May Have To Throw In The Towel
- Thread starter rrog
- Start date
100% agree. Jay, do you by chance know a general pH or NPK of red clays? I always top dress my Sativas with it and they really love it, but I've never understood why.
good advice from Jay and DARC.
for comparison, when i grew NL i used 5g/litre of N guano. for haze i found that even 1g/litre caused clawing of the leaves in veg (that was pure haze though)
dried blood i think creates ammonia style N so it's possible that the roots got a bit burnt when you planted them and then didnt recover fast enough to grow through the medium before the flowering arrested the root growth - then there werent enough roots to feed the plant as the buds grew...
like i said when i first saw then there looks to be a little tip burn on some of the leaves as well as the yellowing on others.
dont beat yourself up over coming to difficulty over a tough strain to grow.- but i would take the advice given to find a gentler source of N than dried blood when you get the chance.
for comparison, when i grew NL i used 5g/litre of N guano. for haze i found that even 1g/litre caused clawing of the leaves in veg (that was pure haze though)
dried blood i think creates ammonia style N so it's possible that the roots got a bit burnt when you planted them and then didnt recover fast enough to grow through the medium before the flowering arrested the root growth - then there werent enough roots to feed the plant as the buds grew...
like i said when i first saw then there looks to be a little tip burn on some of the leaves as well as the yellowing on others.
dont beat yourself up over coming to difficulty over a tough strain to grow.- but i would take the advice given to find a gentler source of N than dried blood when you get the chance.
Thanks all. JayKush, your soil description sounds like what I have (except for the clay). This is a very fluffy soil, since it was designed to allow air to be pumped through. So it drains. I didn't leave it, as you suggested. It had active fungus and bacteria going to town and soil remained moist.
I'm just going to see what happens over the next week. If my little N addition from the Blood meal does something, then I know what to do next. If not, I could look at possible Mg excess and N lockout as well as dunking them for the hell of it.
Thanks again to all the great advice and suggestions. It's great to be able to find a place where people care about another.
I'm just going to see what happens over the next week. If my little N addition from the Blood meal does something, then I know what to do next. If not, I could look at possible Mg excess and N lockout as well as dunking them for the hell of it.
Thanks again to all the great advice and suggestions. It's great to be able to find a place where people care about another.
i'd guess it has more to do with minerals and micronutrients...
the napa 8822 doe not get rid of gnats, not one bit.
Ive used this stuff tons of times gnats love it. a layer of perlite wont do a thing or powdered d.e. or a layer of hydroton.
bayer 2in1 granules with disufolton really worked for me.
C
CT Guy
Fix the soil and the rest become easy. If you have good soil, with the proper amounts of minerals and active biology, then it can even be forgiving for when you screw up.
If you want a complete soil, that you could just water, or maybe some light teas, here's a consideration:
www.simplici-tea.com/soilmix.htm
If you want a complete soil, that you could just water, or maybe some light teas, here's a consideration:
www.simplici-tea.com/soilmix.htm
rrog, was just looking at your pics again. It's N ,but what I 'm not sure about is whether adding a whole bunch now will green her up. Part of the problem as I see it is as follows.
Currently, the lower leaves are yellowing because the plant is consuming itself to feed its flowers. This is from a low N in the soil, used up the during the veg period. The plant wasn't able to store enough energy to remain nice and green during the flowering period and feed the blooms too, and your medium is more than likely depleted.
What to do, feed the girls EWC TEA, I use a good handfull of worm poop, to a Gal of H2O and a Table spoon of blood meal, I've also added a Tablespoon of Kelp meal when flowering. Aerate with a stone 12 hours or more , anything over 24 is not needed. Pour it to them. EWC will not burn so you can make it pretty strong,do not over do the blood it's a lot hotter.
Next run, use more ewc. This is what I use for my medium and only augment feeding during flowering.
1 block fine or med coir
1 block chunk coir
1 cu ft bag ewc
half box Down to Earth of the following
blood meal
kelp meal
bat guano
16 Qt bag vermiculite and the same perlite give or take a little on all of the above.
couple handfuls of prilled dolomite lime, and envelope of beneficials from Down to Earth We have a couple Down to Earth stores in my town.
wet the coir and drain it well then mix in all the rest, I use a 6 cu ft wheel barrow. I let it sit for up to a couple weeks, the N will let the beneficials get happy. Then plant them up check PH while in the barrow. letting it age,it will also let the PH self adjust.
This is pretty much what I do, Hope it'll help.
Currently, the lower leaves are yellowing because the plant is consuming itself to feed its flowers. This is from a low N in the soil, used up the during the veg period. The plant wasn't able to store enough energy to remain nice and green during the flowering period and feed the blooms too, and your medium is more than likely depleted.
What to do, feed the girls EWC TEA, I use a good handfull of worm poop, to a Gal of H2O and a Table spoon of blood meal, I've also added a Tablespoon of Kelp meal when flowering. Aerate with a stone 12 hours or more , anything over 24 is not needed. Pour it to them. EWC will not burn so you can make it pretty strong,do not over do the blood it's a lot hotter.
Next run, use more ewc. This is what I use for my medium and only augment feeding during flowering.
1 block fine or med coir
1 block chunk coir
1 cu ft bag ewc
half box Down to Earth of the following
blood meal
kelp meal
bat guano
16 Qt bag vermiculite and the same perlite give or take a little on all of the above.
couple handfuls of prilled dolomite lime, and envelope of beneficials from Down to Earth We have a couple Down to Earth stores in my town.
wet the coir and drain it well then mix in all the rest, I use a 6 cu ft wheel barrow. I let it sit for up to a couple weeks, the N will let the beneficials get happy. Then plant them up check PH while in the barrow. letting it age,it will also let the PH self adjust.
This is pretty much what I do, Hope it'll help.
you my friend
must water way more then i do
simple mulch keeps nats away for me,nappa isnt even needed
then again im no slouch when it comes to making compost,casting or culturing soil..
by the way, im not talking about eradicating a infestation here nor does it look like thats rrog problem,even then a IPM approach is best were considering your options is last resort
if you have lots of lignin around in your mulch, use fungal teas, etc... you are gonna have fungus gnats. They are made for just that situation.
The adults, as they fly around, will indiscriminately "pollinate" with whatever fungus they were just getting into. They are an important vehicle for many fungi, not all ones we like.
In a system more bacterial-dominated, and especially when there is not "unfinished" compost for mold to grow on, you see very few fungus gnats. Mixing or using a soil with low quality compost products, especially ones containing partially composted sapwood, always results in a gnat explosion at my place.
you can't really ever say "that soil gave me gnats" or "gnats came with that soil". The gnat life cycle is short. When conditions favor them, they show up no matter how secluded your grow. When conditions are against them, they disappear.
The adults, as they fly around, will indiscriminately "pollinate" with whatever fungus they were just getting into. They are an important vehicle for many fungi, not all ones we like.
In a system more bacterial-dominated, and especially when there is not "unfinished" compost for mold to grow on, you see very few fungus gnats. Mixing or using a soil with low quality compost products, especially ones containing partially composted sapwood, always results in a gnat explosion at my place.
you can't really ever say "that soil gave me gnats" or "gnats came with that soil". The gnat life cycle is short. When conditions favor them, they show up no matter how secluded your grow. When conditions are against them, they disappear.
I have a small fungus gnat problem from recycling medium and leaving it outdoors to rest.
Been mixing up some organic neem oil with aloe vera dish soap, pine essesntial oil and some lavender soak for good measure.
Neem will kill the larvae and give you some N and clean up any damaged/infected roots! The pine is also a root tonic and good source of N.
Takes a few weeks but then they will all be gone.
Good luck dont give up!
Been mixing up some organic neem oil with aloe vera dish soap, pine essesntial oil and some lavender soak for good measure.
Neem will kill the larvae and give you some N and clean up any damaged/infected roots! The pine is also a root tonic and good source of N.
Takes a few weeks but then they will all be gone.
Good luck dont give up!
fungus gnats population booms are a sign of lack of diversity. you should have critters that eat fungus gnats in your soil/mulch. also a sign your watering too much.
im going to offer one more piece of advice, keep it simple! with all these people giving different recipes, methods and techniques its going to complicate things and youll end up back where you are. keep it simple, find what works for you, and stick with it.
im going to offer one more piece of advice, keep it simple! with all these people giving different recipes, methods and techniques its going to complicate things and youll end up back where you are. keep it simple, find what works for you, and stick with it.
Coco + Maxi Bloom + Water + ph 5.8 = Buds
KISS method.
KISS method.
You've gotten some good advice here. If it were me, I would pull one of the plants from it's pots (despite the screen), and examine the roots carefully with a loupe and a bright light. If you see movement after awhile, it might be Verdant Green's guess of root aphids, my arch enemies. They are small and hard to see.
If not, you can examine the roots and I think you will have a better idea of what's going on. Does look like a weak root system to me, for whatever reason. If you don't check 'em, you will never know.
), and examine the roots carefully with a loupe and a bright light. If you see movement after awhile, it might be Verdant Green's guess of root aphids, my arch enemies. They are small and hard to see.If not, you can examine the roots and I think you will have a better idea of what's going on. Does look like a weak root system to me, for whatever reason. If you don't check 'em, you will never know.
My little Blood Meal + EWC slurry didn't seem to change anything. I can try that again, but I should dunk them just to rule out Gnats. I guess root aphids are also on the list, but don't think dunks affect aphids.
Can Aphids be killed off and not harm the microlife population at large?
I'll be looking forward to looking at the roots after harvest. I'd just like to keep them alive until then. Chalk it up to learning.
Can Aphids be killed off and not harm the microlife population at large?
I'll be looking forward to looking at the roots after harvest. I'd just like to keep them alive until then. Chalk it up to learning.
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question for sam the skunkman on the original haze
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