I have a Dissolved Oxygen meter
- Thread starter morgancola
- Start date
topherfrog
New member
I really wanted to see the h2o2
morgancola
Member
clowntown said:I had no reason to believe that this thread would go nowhere... until the guy just disappeared. All that talk, the promise of doing tests, etc, for nothing. Lame.
Yeah, its called family, friends.. I do have a life other than growing plants.
My best friends mom is dying of cancer right now. Ive known her for 20 years, she calls me her second son. Sorry if I cant provide enough tests for you guys. I still have the meter but it takes time for shit to happen properly. I mean, how many friggen buckets do I have to have going all the same and let me tell you, it doesnt tell me much.. My DO in one of my VEG rubbermaids was 9.7 PPM oxygen.. I can take bubbles away and have it drop a little but we all know they need bubbles. OK I it were ONE test to do, what is it? I cant sit and do every 15 minute inervals cause I dont have that kinda free time. I did temp, and airstone vs no stone but all the variables make it a moot point IMO.
Sorry to dissapoint you..
Sometimes life can be " LAME"
G
Guest
Morgancola...shit happens...my initial test results with a CHEMetrics kit showed not much of a dif between a top line air stone/air pump combo and open (no stone of diffusion tubing) lines. I started with stagnant nute solution (about 7 PPM) and used what I thought was the next best method in succession and the next to last step was my Alita stone/air pump combo and I was at about 11 PPM after 1 1/5 hours with no change from 1 to 1 1/5 hours running this combo. The last step was the same air pump setting and open line. Obviously there was more air flowing through due to less resistance but after an hour of open line bubbling I was still at about 11 PPM. After 1 1/2 hours it maybe hit 11.5 PPM. Considering the solution temp was 75 F it seemed I achieved oversaturation. My online research showed 45 F water can hold like 11.9 PPM and 90 F is like 7.9 PPM (?)...but that info is on another puter. I came across one Ausie/New Zealand (?) study with lettuce where at 2 PPM pythium could easily be a problem but upping to like 4 PPM pythium had a hard time taking hold if all other parameters were the same.
My initial results showed me peeps will see a dif between using a crappy stone/pump combo and an open line but not much of a dif between a top line stone/pump combo and open line combo. Based on my experience peeps with a remote res can use open lines and easily achieve DO saturation and beyond. NO stones are necessary in this instance IMO. I'm wondering if using a finer bubbling system in something like DWC is better as the root system might be 'tickled' better with all those little bubbles as opposed to big bubbling so have to defer to something like Alita's clear silicone diffuser tubing in this case. I guess a ceramic or corundum stone would be the next best option but may need at least infrequent cleaning/maintenance.
Anyway...got the info I needed for my setup and will redo the test...someday...hopefully soon but still expect the same conclusions even though the numbers may be slightly dif.
My initial results showed me peeps will see a dif between using a crappy stone/pump combo and an open line but not much of a dif between a top line stone/pump combo and open line combo. Based on my experience peeps with a remote res can use open lines and easily achieve DO saturation and beyond. NO stones are necessary in this instance IMO. I'm wondering if using a finer bubbling system in something like DWC is better as the root system might be 'tickled' better with all those little bubbles as opposed to big bubbling so have to defer to something like Alita's clear silicone diffuser tubing in this case. I guess a ceramic or corundum stone would be the next best option but may need at least infrequent cleaning/maintenance.
Anyway...got the info I needed for my setup and will redo the test...someday...hopefully soon but still expect the same conclusions even though the numbers may be slightly dif.
not sure if i mentioned it already, but alaric back on cw made the same observation with his DO meter in NFT, 4ppm was still ok he said, lower than that and trouble starts
edit: i did mention it: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=47837&page=2&pp=15#postmenu_821339
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G
Guest
Cool Mace...that just verifies some of my online research. While pythium is a concern I think what most are shooting for, including me, is optimum environmental conditions for growth. In regards to pythium my tests proved, to me, 4 PPM DO is ridiculously easy to achieve and maintain.
EDIT - OK...read that portion and...uhhhh...getting old I guess as I forgot that part
:. Thought some of my observations were of value but guess not.
EDIT - OK...read that portion and...uhhhh...getting old I guess as I forgot that part
:. Thought some of my observations were of value but guess not.
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Morgancola lacks an ability to use scientific methodology. We would love to see nice spread sheets with DO levels, temps, methods, etc. It is not going to happen with this guy. Not everyone is a scientist. But for the life of me, I can't understand what could possibly be more important than growing marijuana.
Jesusbuiltmygro
Member
My kingdom for a motivated person with a DO meter. Lets all beg Big Toke to run some test for us.
G
Guest
Growing great marijuana.BlindDate said:
One caveat on the kit I used is it won't work well with dark colored solutions as it will skew the results as it's a visual test method. For those interested the kit comes with 30 sealed glass ampules containing a premeasured reagent. It has has sealed ampules to use a standards against the test sample. I'm not big on visual kits but this one is pretty good...unless you wanna spend about 9x as much for a decent meter.
Redux so according to your tests, having air stones make no difference. Clogged or otherwise? I thought i read some of your data last night, but now i don't see it.
I have used airstones, and now i use ceramic air diffusers (from Deep water innovations [worms way catalog]). i would get a 'musty' smell from my reservoir with clogged stones, and the diffusers will clog eventually (i use 10ml/Gal of Liquid Karma). I have not used Mercuric acid (isn't that hydrochloric acid?) but i have used Oxy-Clean to clean them. but OC is not extremely effective IMHO. I dunked the diffusers in a bucket with plenty of OC and water, and then let them bubble for 2+ hours. They were cleaner, but probably still semi-clogged on the inside.
Maybe i will try just an open ended air line, but im not sure how i would keep it on the bottom of the bucket (to allow maximum agitation, and to keep the the solution mixed well). I have a few tiny air stones, maybe i will just drill some holes in them.
as far as the original poster goes, its a bummer about your personal problems. Some growers are KISS method, and some take a more scientific approach to research. by stating your willingness to experiment with your DO meter, you got some of us all excited about the application of scientific methodology to our illegal hobby. Because our hobby is illegal, it is very hard to get concrete scientific results. You got our hopes up really high, then it seemed like you abandoned us. No hard feelings, but you got our hopes up really high.
It would be similar to someone getting some equipment to measure THC, CBN, CBD, etc, telling us they were willing to experiment with different strains, and then coming back and saying, "Blueberry is the best, the end"
It leaves us wanting more.
No hard feelings.
I have used airstones, and now i use ceramic air diffusers (from Deep water innovations [worms way catalog]). i would get a 'musty' smell from my reservoir with clogged stones, and the diffusers will clog eventually (i use 10ml/Gal of Liquid Karma). I have not used Mercuric acid (isn't that hydrochloric acid?) but i have used Oxy-Clean to clean them. but OC is not extremely effective IMHO. I dunked the diffusers in a bucket with plenty of OC and water, and then let them bubble for 2+ hours. They were cleaner, but probably still semi-clogged on the inside.
Maybe i will try just an open ended air line, but im not sure how i would keep it on the bottom of the bucket (to allow maximum agitation, and to keep the the solution mixed well). I have a few tiny air stones, maybe i will just drill some holes in them.
as far as the original poster goes, its a bummer about your personal problems. Some growers are KISS method, and some take a more scientific approach to research. by stating your willingness to experiment with your DO meter, you got some of us all excited about the application of scientific methodology to our illegal hobby. Because our hobby is illegal, it is very hard to get concrete scientific results. You got our hopes up really high, then it seemed like you abandoned us. No hard feelings, but you got our hopes up really high.
It would be similar to someone getting some equipment to measure THC, CBN, CBD, etc, telling us they were willing to experiment with different strains, and then coming back and saying, "Blueberry is the best, the end"
It leaves us wanting more.
No hard feelings.
G
Guest
ShroomDr...I could not discern a dif between my 6" Alita corundum stone driven to the max and the pump on the same setting with an open line weighted at the bottom of a 35 gal res. Seems like you max out at about 11 PPM. I wanna redo the tests but got the info I needed for my setup at the moment and have other chores to do. I did notice a jump in PPM when switching from a cheap aquarium stone with the air pump set pretty low and the same pump setting with an open line.
I looked at the Deep Water Innovations units but they never got back to me so I went with Alita. If I go DWC, currently use a remote res running spaghetti line into rockwool slabs, I'll prolly use Alita's diffusion tubing (won't clog) over an air stone or an open line. Bathing the roots in finer bubbles seems to make more sense but that's kind of a hypothesis.
For the open line test I just put a few large stainless steel nuts on the line then attached a T connector to the end. Since the T fit inside the line this did create some resistance cutting flow but it was close enough for me.
The only way you're really gonna know what works for your setup is run some tests. They're pretty inexpensive.
I looked at the Deep Water Innovations units but they never got back to me so I went with Alita. If I go DWC, currently use a remote res running spaghetti line into rockwool slabs, I'll prolly use Alita's diffusion tubing (won't clog) over an air stone or an open line. Bathing the roots in finer bubbles seems to make more sense but that's kind of a hypothesis.
For the open line test I just put a few large stainless steel nuts on the line then attached a T connector to the end. Since the T fit inside the line this did create some resistance cutting flow but it was close enough for me.
The only way you're really gonna know what works for your setup is run some tests. They're pretty inexpensive.
Btw, clonetown and mace, oxygen is not flammable. it is considered flammable because it fuels fire, since fire needs oxygen to breathe. Oxygen aids flame, but not flammable in itself. So another words you would need a fire already, they oxygen will only add to the consumption of the fire there fore making the fire larger in respect.
2ndly 87% pure O2 is harmfull to human intake after prolonged exposore(hours). if you where ever put on a oxygen mask in the hopsital or dr's. the oxygen is considered "medical" at 94% and higher only.
In all this is worth, after reading of inconclusive data coming form people about DO. i went out and bought my own DO meter, $1300 later, i will experiment with an o2 concentrator in the future. Now im just working on my water fall. So far by changing certain things in my system i have gotten from 10.5 to 13.1 mg/l. Not sure what that converts to ppm, mg/l might be ppm for all i know.
B-safe
2ndly 87% pure O2 is harmfull to human intake after prolonged exposore(hours). if you where ever put on a oxygen mask in the hopsital or dr's. the oxygen is considered "medical" at 94% and higher only.
In all this is worth, after reading of inconclusive data coming form people about DO. i went out and bought my own DO meter, $1300 later, i will experiment with an o2 concentrator in the future. Now im just working on my water fall. So far by changing certain things in my system i have gotten from 10.5 to 13.1 mg/l. Not sure what that converts to ppm, mg/l might be ppm for all i know.
B-safe
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G
Guest
Wish I had money to throw away like that. There's some very functional meters for under $500. I think an O2 concentrator is a waste (cost-to-benefit ratio). If you want to grow in a super high O2 enviro just go aeroponic. I assume since your talking waterfall you've got DWC buckets? Open airlines would do just fine. Total air volume is more important than bubble size IMO. Those cheap CHEMetrics kits work just fine for almost anyone. I ran some tests and found the results very conclusive for what I'm doing.gmanwho said:
G
Guest
Oh tay...which DO meter you got? I've been looking around for a decent backup meter and thought about Hanna's 991300 but am leaning toward Hanna's 9828 for about $2K. The 9828 gives me 13 parameters, most useless though like ORP, atmospheric pressure, etc., but does provide EC/TDS/pH/temp/DO, is super accurate and allows 60,000 data samples for 13 parameters which I can download to a pc for analysis. Logging interval is between 1 second and 3 hours. Data loggers aren't cheap. Based on your experience what meter do you recommend?
EDIT - oh yeah...I can totally submerge the 9828's probe and not flinch whereas Hanna will tell you NOT, in almost every case, to totally submerge a probe.
EDIT - oh yeah...I can totally submerge the 9828's probe and not flinch whereas Hanna will tell you NOT, in almost every case, to totally submerge a probe.
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I ended up picking up corning checkmate meter. it also has ph and tds wands. there are 3 adapter meters to the units main processor. just swap meters as i go ones a tds meter, then ph and do.
If i had a choice again, i would not buy the corning, now called nova analytics, for reason being replacement membranes and other consumables are more expensive. i would go for a YSI model.
My experience at the moment is very limited with meters, only had a oakton ph meter and a trimeter before, now this corning. So i gotta learn as i go.
B-safe
If i had a choice again, i would not buy the corning, now called nova analytics, for reason being replacement membranes and other consumables are more expensive. i would go for a YSI model.
My experience at the moment is very limited with meters, only had a oakton ph meter and a trimeter before, now this corning. So i gotta learn as i go.
B-safe
G
Guest
YSI??? I'm disappointed...
