T
TribalSeeds
6 pages in and youre asking if its ok to flush with hygrozyme? WTF dude! That shit is $150 a gallon!
Hygrozyme VS H202
- Thread starter ender87i
- Start date
idk brutha. i haven't sent it off to the lab, but sweet tastes sweet. that's simple sugar. starches and cellulose are your complex carbs. floranectar tastes sickeningly sweet. same principle at work. as for molasses (and molasses based products like bud candy), that's just sucrose with some residual vitamins and minerals. i don't think i need to say anything here about malt extract and refined white sugar.
tell you what though... i'm going to grab some iodine and some floranectar. i already know it's got simple sugars in it, but i'm curious to see if it's got starch in it at all...
all those days in junior high i spent watching mr. wizard and getting stoned off brick pack i stole from my uncle's drawer are about to pay off.
ps. i like your little brother already.
it won't kill them off thats for sure... but how aerated is your reservoir to avoid anaerobic conditions?... if you are recirculating, your res is going to be filled with microorganisms which will call for much higher levels of dissolved oxygen to keep alive and healthy... as compared to the amount of D/O necessary for a dead Res.
I'm not a hydro expert but if you can keep the micro heard alive, what I would be concerned with is build up of the bennies in your reservoir, unless you are using a bio filter but again I'm not an expert so this is just what I would think.
T
TribalSeeds
$150 a gallon dude...
I would also suggest keeping your res below 70 if you add hygrozyme, or any other organic ingredient. People seem to think they can run warmer with hygrozyme, but I dont see the logic.
I would also suggest keeping your res below 70 if you add hygrozyme, or any other organic ingredient. People seem to think they can run warmer with hygrozyme, but I dont see the logic.
That's priceless my friend. Bravo. Quote of the day for sure. "150 a gallon dude...."
And avantgardener. I'm nit trying to be a dick it's just how I talk. I know I ma come off condescending but it's just the realist in me. I'm harsh and blunt. Sorry if I pissed you off.
Let me clarify a few things:
-Im running a recirculating hydroponic ebb&flow bucket system with a 50 gal res.
-Im running the full Botanicare line, including Aquasheild.
-Im also running beneficial bacteria (voodoo juice)
-My water is chilled, and sits at 66 degrees f.
-Yes, it is aerated by an 8 inch air-disc and a commercial grade 17w airpump
-My room sits at about 77 degrees f, and humidity is about 50 percent.
SO, with all of that said, can Hygrozyme be of any benefit to me in any way, or for my bennies, or anything else? For example, if i run it only ONE flood, by itself, in-between reservoir changes? I need a clear answer as to weather or not it will do good or bad things, given the information that i provided above.
Please let me know and provide details if possible.
Thank you.
-Im running a recirculating hydroponic ebb&flow bucket system with a 50 gal res.
-Im running the full Botanicare line, including Aquasheild.
-Im also running beneficial bacteria (voodoo juice)
-My water is chilled, and sits at 66 degrees f.
-Yes, it is aerated by an 8 inch air-disc and a commercial grade 17w airpump
-My room sits at about 77 degrees f, and humidity is about 50 percent.
SO, with all of that said, can Hygrozyme be of any benefit to me in any way, or for my bennies, or anything else? For example, if i run it only ONE flood, by itself, in-between reservoir changes? I need a clear answer as to weather or not it will do good or bad things, given the information that i provided above.
Please let me know and provide details if possible.
Thank you.
maybe this will help give it a good read...
maybe this will help give it a good read...
http://jadekine.com/?p=139
by Jade Kine
Is it possible? I certainly think so. Then again, I designed the Rain Table partly out of frustration with traditional hydroponic methods. I think Hydro-organic gardening methods have languished in their applied technologies because growers have forever been trying to imitate styles of hydroponics that were based on the assumptions of conventional fertilizers. We, as an industry, have been trying to make the “organic version” of everything without reconsidering everything from the ground up. That’s where the process of biomimicry comes in. Instead of looking at ways to incorporate organics into non-organic cultivation methods, the Rain Table design looks to the natural world and simply asks, “How does nature do it?”. Plants that survive in the wild do so without synthetic fertilizers or human intervention. They have to find a way to get what they need (soluble nutrients) in a world that only supplies them with poop (sounds a bit like the human experience). Actually, nature supplies all kinds of fertilizers like plant and animal debris, but all of it has to get broken down before the plants can use it.
Since the Rain Table supplies water to the plants in a manner that mimics nature, the design can also be used to supply nutrients just like nature does – slowly and evenly. This garden uses primarily dry organic fertilizers applied as “top dressings” – sprinkled over the top of the root zone. Top dressing plants with dry fertilizers is by far the cheapest and easiest method although it is a technique usually reserved for outdoor gardens. These products such as bat guanos, kelp meal and humic acids are drastically cheaper in their original raw forms than when made into the relatively expensive commercial products that growers find in hydroponic stores. In traditional systems, the use of dry organic fertilizers is usually not practical as they will cause clogging failures or require extensive filtering which can be inconvenient. Also, traditional methods of steeping bags of organic fertilizer in the reservoir only allow a portion of the nutrients to be extracted in solution. The true beauty of the Rain Table design is that it uses the medium itself as the filter in the system. By using a loose soilless mix covered with a half inch of pea gravel (for control of gnats and algae) inside fabric pots (in this case, “Smart Pots”), the medium and pot make an ideal filter. As the spray manifold rains over the top of the root zone, it washes small amounts of the organic fertilizers into the medium where they are then digested and made available to plants. (It is very important to note that without microbial digestion, organic fertilizers will break down slowly and be less available to the plants.)
In this garden, two primary types of beneficial microbe inoculants are being used – mycorrhizae fungus inoculant and compost starting inoculant. Before planting, I mix mycorrhizae fungus into the medium and during the crop cycle I sprinkle soluble mycorrhizae over the top of the root zone as well. The application of mycorrhizae fungus benefits plants in many ways, but one of the most significant benefits is that they break down less available forms of phosphorous (very important for flowering) and deliver the potent, soluble form directly to the plant roots. The compost starter inoculant breaks down pretty much everything and consists of various bacteria that are found in healthy soils. These bacteria also digest organic fertilizers into their “lowest common denominators” as I say – basically, the smallest molecule, most readily available forms. This allows growers to get maximum performance out of very small applications of fertilizer because a much higher percentage of the fertilizer is being broken down and made available to plants when applied directly to a root zone that has established colonies of beneficial bacteria and fungi. As the fertilizers break down and become soluble, they leach through the medium and are recovered in the reservoir – creating your own easily filtered nutrient solution that doesn’t require expensive commercial liquid nutrients. By checking the TDS/EC of the reservoir (nutrient strength), growers can effectively monitor the amount of fertilizer in the system.
Another very important aspect of root zone health and microbial digestion is the role of oxygen in the reservoir. Reservoirs need to have a continuous supply of air bubbling through them at all times in order to remain fresh. Not only do the plant roots require oxygen, but the beneficial microorganisms that are breaking down the nutrients are aerobic organisms which means they require a constant supply of oxygen as well. Since the roots and all the microorganisms are consuming oxygen, it can be difficult to maintain optimum levels of dissolved oxygen (D.O.) in water. Growers that use only a few air stones in their reservoir won’t be able to sustain optimum levels of oxygen for either the plants or the microbes. However, there is a cheap, widely available alternative for traditional air stones that’s both more effective and more durable – quarter-inch “soaker” hose. Just like the Rain Bird micro sprayers that the irrigation system is based on, this ¼-in soaker hose is a regular landscaping material available at garden centers and hardware stores everywhere. By using the same fittings as ¼ inch drip tubing (barbed elbows and tees), growers can customize the manifold to the shape and size of the reservoir. In the photo, you can see that I’ve made a manifold that is densely spaced with tubing every few inches and covers the entire area of the reservoir. Growers will need to use some type of weights to hold the manifold down. Here, I slid a few large galvanized nuts over the tubing as I was building it to anchor the air manifold (since it’s full of air, it wants to float). Be sure to use galvanized steel, stainless steel or some type of plastic coated weight in order to avoid rust, which can potentially alter your nutrient solution. (Do not use zinc nuts either for the same reason.) When this soaker hose is pressurized using a strong commercial air pump, it makes the solution bubble like Champagne. When it comes to sizing your air pump, I use the same philosophy as when sizing exhaust fans – larger is better. Move lots of air – you can always reduce the airflow but you can’t increase it if you try to get by with a tiny pump. Again, the solution in the reservoir is constantly having oxygen removed from it via the plants and microbes, so you have to keep it coming as much as possible.
But you’re not just trying to avoid low oxygen levels – you’re trying to achieve extremely high levels of oxygen. The more oxygen the water has, the more biological activity will break down nutrients and make them available to plants faster. If you look at methods for brewing compost tea, you’ll see all the same factors coming together to create the best organic fertilizer teas. My question is – Why would you use a separate bucket to brew teas in when you could make your whole system, including the root zone, into an organic fertilizer processor? Why steep organic fertilizers in water only to use a small portion of the nutrients when you could have the root zone completely digest and utilize nutrients? Just as it would occur in a healthy soil in nature, fertilizers watered into the Rain Table are used in the most efficient manner possible. These plants take up a little less than a square foot of space and are fed with ½ tsp to a few teaspoons of fertilizer per application depending on what it is. Fertilizers are applied weekly and the reservoir is monitored to control overall concentration. If you’re ever in doubt regarding your nutrient strength, just empty out your reservoir, refill with plain water and cycle to rinse the plants. If you accidentally apply way too much fertilizer, you can scrape the top layer off the pots, rinse for a day and then start over at an appropriate nutrient level. Remember, fertilizers are not plant “food”, they are plant “multi-vitamins”. Plants make their actual food – sugars – from light energy, water and CO2. Applying lots of fertilizer in order to make your plants big is like taking lots of multi-vitamins in order to get big muscles. It just doesn’t work. Ideal environments grow ideal crops that turn into ideal Cannabis. Obviously, some fertilizers must be applied, but you don’t typically need anything close to the amount that the fertilizer manufacturers suggest you use. When it comes to fertilizing in any system, less is more.
As for the types of fertilizer to use, growers have a lot of options. This particular garden is using bat guanos as the base nutrients – high N for veg, high P for flowering. Even though the system is designed to incorporate dry fertilizers, growers still have the option of using commercial liquid products to supplement their basic program. In this case, Earth Juice Meta K supplies the potassium in the program and Botanicare Seaplex supplies micronutrients in the form of kelp. For supplements, I use a raw, micronized humic acid that comes in a dry powder form. It is significantly more potent than commercially available liquid humic acids and at a mere $5 a pound (Really), it’s one of the most economical additions to a dry fertilization program. It’s sold under the name “Micro Hume” and it’s available from Peaceful Valley Farm Supply at www.GrowOrganic.com. Peaceful Valley has a number of micronized products such as guanos and rock phosphate for much less than commercial hydroponic fertilizers. Future crops in the Rain Table will be analyzing the digestion and uptake rates of micronized versus non-micronized fertilizers.
Now, I know I promised my full review of the Milwaukee SMS122 automatic pH controller in last month’s Grower’s Grove but our discussion of the Rain Table’s hydro-organic capabilities has left me with no more room and I can hear my editor calling me in to deadline. For those who can’t wait to hear about it, drop me a line or come by and see the Rain Table in action inside Medmar Healing Center in San Jose (www.SJMedMar.com). For everyone else, our discussion of high-tech reservoir control will have to wait until part 3 of the Rain Table series. Don’t worry, your patience will be rewarded. I even installed a custom float buoy for the probe. All this and much more on the cutting edge of cultivation next month – the straight dope you can only get here in the Grower’s Grove.
–Jade Kine
Peace,
Infi
maybe this will help give it a good read...
I don't think that air disc would be enough oxygen for a 50 gallon rez, pay special attention to the part emboldened...
http://jadekine.com/?p=139
High Performance Hydro-Organics Without the Hassle
by Jade Kine
Is it possible? I certainly think so. Then again, I designed the Rain Table partly out of frustration with traditional hydroponic methods. I think Hydro-organic gardening methods have languished in their applied technologies because growers have forever been trying to imitate styles of hydroponics that were based on the assumptions of conventional fertilizers. We, as an industry, have been trying to make the “organic version” of everything without reconsidering everything from the ground up. That’s where the process of biomimicry comes in. Instead of looking at ways to incorporate organics into non-organic cultivation methods, the Rain Table design looks to the natural world and simply asks, “How does nature do it?”. Plants that survive in the wild do so without synthetic fertilizers or human intervention. They have to find a way to get what they need (soluble nutrients) in a world that only supplies them with poop (sounds a bit like the human experience). Actually, nature supplies all kinds of fertilizers like plant and animal debris, but all of it has to get broken down before the plants can use it.
Since the Rain Table supplies water to the plants in a manner that mimics nature, the design can also be used to supply nutrients just like nature does – slowly and evenly. This garden uses primarily dry organic fertilizers applied as “top dressings” – sprinkled over the top of the root zone. Top dressing plants with dry fertilizers is by far the cheapest and easiest method although it is a technique usually reserved for outdoor gardens. These products such as bat guanos, kelp meal and humic acids are drastically cheaper in their original raw forms than when made into the relatively expensive commercial products that growers find in hydroponic stores. In traditional systems, the use of dry organic fertilizers is usually not practical as they will cause clogging failures or require extensive filtering which can be inconvenient. Also, traditional methods of steeping bags of organic fertilizer in the reservoir only allow a portion of the nutrients to be extracted in solution. The true beauty of the Rain Table design is that it uses the medium itself as the filter in the system. By using a loose soilless mix covered with a half inch of pea gravel (for control of gnats and algae) inside fabric pots (in this case, “Smart Pots”), the medium and pot make an ideal filter. As the spray manifold rains over the top of the root zone, it washes small amounts of the organic fertilizers into the medium where they are then digested and made available to plants. (It is very important to note that without microbial digestion, organic fertilizers will break down slowly and be less available to the plants.)
In this garden, two primary types of beneficial microbe inoculants are being used – mycorrhizae fungus inoculant and compost starting inoculant. Before planting, I mix mycorrhizae fungus into the medium and during the crop cycle I sprinkle soluble mycorrhizae over the top of the root zone as well. The application of mycorrhizae fungus benefits plants in many ways, but one of the most significant benefits is that they break down less available forms of phosphorous (very important for flowering) and deliver the potent, soluble form directly to the plant roots. The compost starter inoculant breaks down pretty much everything and consists of various bacteria that are found in healthy soils. These bacteria also digest organic fertilizers into their “lowest common denominators” as I say – basically, the smallest molecule, most readily available forms. This allows growers to get maximum performance out of very small applications of fertilizer because a much higher percentage of the fertilizer is being broken down and made available to plants when applied directly to a root zone that has established colonies of beneficial bacteria and fungi. As the fertilizers break down and become soluble, they leach through the medium and are recovered in the reservoir – creating your own easily filtered nutrient solution that doesn’t require expensive commercial liquid nutrients. By checking the TDS/EC of the reservoir (nutrient strength), growers can effectively monitor the amount of fertilizer in the system.
Another very important aspect of root zone health and microbial digestion is the role of oxygen in the reservoir. Reservoirs need to have a continuous supply of air bubbling through them at all times in order to remain fresh. Not only do the plant roots require oxygen, but the beneficial microorganisms that are breaking down the nutrients are aerobic organisms which means they require a constant supply of oxygen as well. Since the roots and all the microorganisms are consuming oxygen, it can be difficult to maintain optimum levels of dissolved oxygen (D.O.) in water. Growers that use only a few air stones in their reservoir won’t be able to sustain optimum levels of oxygen for either the plants or the microbes. However, there is a cheap, widely available alternative for traditional air stones that’s both more effective and more durable – quarter-inch “soaker” hose. Just like the Rain Bird micro sprayers that the irrigation system is based on, this ¼-in soaker hose is a regular landscaping material available at garden centers and hardware stores everywhere. By using the same fittings as ¼ inch drip tubing (barbed elbows and tees), growers can customize the manifold to the shape and size of the reservoir. In the photo, you can see that I’ve made a manifold that is densely spaced with tubing every few inches and covers the entire area of the reservoir. Growers will need to use some type of weights to hold the manifold down. Here, I slid a few large galvanized nuts over the tubing as I was building it to anchor the air manifold (since it’s full of air, it wants to float). Be sure to use galvanized steel, stainless steel or some type of plastic coated weight in order to avoid rust, which can potentially alter your nutrient solution. (Do not use zinc nuts either for the same reason.) When this soaker hose is pressurized using a strong commercial air pump, it makes the solution bubble like Champagne. When it comes to sizing your air pump, I use the same philosophy as when sizing exhaust fans – larger is better. Move lots of air – you can always reduce the airflow but you can’t increase it if you try to get by with a tiny pump. Again, the solution in the reservoir is constantly having oxygen removed from it via the plants and microbes, so you have to keep it coming as much as possible.
But you’re not just trying to avoid low oxygen levels – you’re trying to achieve extremely high levels of oxygen. The more oxygen the water has, the more biological activity will break down nutrients and make them available to plants faster. If you look at methods for brewing compost tea, you’ll see all the same factors coming together to create the best organic fertilizer teas. My question is – Why would you use a separate bucket to brew teas in when you could make your whole system, including the root zone, into an organic fertilizer processor? Why steep organic fertilizers in water only to use a small portion of the nutrients when you could have the root zone completely digest and utilize nutrients? Just as it would occur in a healthy soil in nature, fertilizers watered into the Rain Table are used in the most efficient manner possible. These plants take up a little less than a square foot of space and are fed with ½ tsp to a few teaspoons of fertilizer per application depending on what it is. Fertilizers are applied weekly and the reservoir is monitored to control overall concentration. If you’re ever in doubt regarding your nutrient strength, just empty out your reservoir, refill with plain water and cycle to rinse the plants. If you accidentally apply way too much fertilizer, you can scrape the top layer off the pots, rinse for a day and then start over at an appropriate nutrient level. Remember, fertilizers are not plant “food”, they are plant “multi-vitamins”. Plants make their actual food – sugars – from light energy, water and CO2. Applying lots of fertilizer in order to make your plants big is like taking lots of multi-vitamins in order to get big muscles. It just doesn’t work. Ideal environments grow ideal crops that turn into ideal Cannabis. Obviously, some fertilizers must be applied, but you don’t typically need anything close to the amount that the fertilizer manufacturers suggest you use. When it comes to fertilizing in any system, less is more.
As for the types of fertilizer to use, growers have a lot of options. This particular garden is using bat guanos as the base nutrients – high N for veg, high P for flowering. Even though the system is designed to incorporate dry fertilizers, growers still have the option of using commercial liquid products to supplement their basic program. In this case, Earth Juice Meta K supplies the potassium in the program and Botanicare Seaplex supplies micronutrients in the form of kelp. For supplements, I use a raw, micronized humic acid that comes in a dry powder form. It is significantly more potent than commercially available liquid humic acids and at a mere $5 a pound (Really), it’s one of the most economical additions to a dry fertilization program. It’s sold under the name “Micro Hume” and it’s available from Peaceful Valley Farm Supply at www.GrowOrganic.com. Peaceful Valley has a number of micronized products such as guanos and rock phosphate for much less than commercial hydroponic fertilizers. Future crops in the Rain Table will be analyzing the digestion and uptake rates of micronized versus non-micronized fertilizers.
Now, I know I promised my full review of the Milwaukee SMS122 automatic pH controller in last month’s Grower’s Grove but our discussion of the Rain Table’s hydro-organic capabilities has left me with no more room and I can hear my editor calling me in to deadline. For those who can’t wait to hear about it, drop me a line or come by and see the Rain Table in action inside Medmar Healing Center in San Jose (www.SJMedMar.com). For everyone else, our discussion of high-tech reservoir control will have to wait until part 3 of the Rain Table series. Don’t worry, your patience will be rewarded. I even installed a custom float buoy for the probe. All this and much more on the cutting edge of cultivation next month – the straight dope you can only get here in the Grower’s Grove.
–Jade Kine
Peace,
Infi
Builtaforest
Member
Ender
In short, no.
In a well-dialed setup, stay away from the stuff. Soil, sure, use away.
baf
In short, no.
In a well-dialed setup, stay away from the stuff. Soil, sure, use away.
baf
Hygrozyme
Hygrozyme
Hi Folks,
It seems there is a lot of confusion about Hygrozyme & its uses. I agree with previous posters that in a 'dead' res it's pretty pointless but works well with 'Bennies'. However, I've used it only as a cleaner & have not used it continually in my hydro system.
Hygrozyme is an OMRI approved (Organic Materials Review Institute), naturally derived organic solution, specifically intended to facilitate the removal and expulsion of dead organic matter that may have built up on media or medium surfaces – without altering the normal course of decomposition. Hygrozyme acts as a facilitator-cleaner prior to - or in conjunction with the sterilization of containerized media, such as plastic mesh, soil, rock wool, coco fibre or agricultural related equipment, including, but not limited to, greenhouse tools, hydroponic systems, air stones, pipes, pumps, buckets, drip feed systems, and reservoir tanks.
The technology was identified and originally developed for hospitals. It is now considered to be the world "Gold Standard" of passive cleaning in virtually all hospitals for the purpose of cleaning surgical operating equipment. It has been proven that chemicals alone will not remove dead organic fixatives prior to sterilization. Hygrozyme is the only known natural cleaner that can be used in conjunction with other standard cleaning chemicals (i.e. hydrogen peroxide). It can be used alone, where the use of chemicals is prohibited or not welcome and so provides the ideal natural cleaning solution.
Use in Pure Hydroponic Systems
A build up of dead organic matter occurs in pipes and pumps, where "pockets" for dead matter may exist. Usually this occurs where 90˚ turns are used in piping as well as in air stones and in pumps. This build up of dead organic matter can provide ideal conditions for blight to set in or to return, even after a thorough clean-down. Bio films are difficult to clean. Many experts believe that disease formed may actually enter surfaces of old and decaying plastics and continue to appear even after apparent sterilization, since "dirt" cannot be sterilized.
Already accepted as the "Gold Standard" in the medical industry of surgical instruments, enzyme formulas have now been proven effective in hydroponics. Hygrozyme is effective in helping to keep the surfaces of pipes, pumps, reservoirs, and trays free of bio film build up.
REMEMBER: Hygrozyme does not kill anything. To be effective, it must be used before dead matter can develop and "grab" onto surfaces causing bio film build up - just like fire insurance for your home that must be purchased before the fire.
I flush my system with this prior to planting, leaving it to run through all the drippers etc for a couple of hours. Rinse down & Bob's your mother's brother! A clean system.
Stay safe
Hygrozyme
Hi Folks,
It seems there is a lot of confusion about Hygrozyme & its uses. I agree with previous posters that in a 'dead' res it's pretty pointless but works well with 'Bennies'. However, I've used it only as a cleaner & have not used it continually in my hydro system.
Hygrozyme is an OMRI approved (Organic Materials Review Institute), naturally derived organic solution, specifically intended to facilitate the removal and expulsion of dead organic matter that may have built up on media or medium surfaces – without altering the normal course of decomposition. Hygrozyme acts as a facilitator-cleaner prior to - or in conjunction with the sterilization of containerized media, such as plastic mesh, soil, rock wool, coco fibre or agricultural related equipment, including, but not limited to, greenhouse tools, hydroponic systems, air stones, pipes, pumps, buckets, drip feed systems, and reservoir tanks.
The technology was identified and originally developed for hospitals. It is now considered to be the world "Gold Standard" of passive cleaning in virtually all hospitals for the purpose of cleaning surgical operating equipment. It has been proven that chemicals alone will not remove dead organic fixatives prior to sterilization. Hygrozyme is the only known natural cleaner that can be used in conjunction with other standard cleaning chemicals (i.e. hydrogen peroxide). It can be used alone, where the use of chemicals is prohibited or not welcome and so provides the ideal natural cleaning solution.
Use in Pure Hydroponic Systems
A build up of dead organic matter occurs in pipes and pumps, where "pockets" for dead matter may exist. Usually this occurs where 90˚ turns are used in piping as well as in air stones and in pumps. This build up of dead organic matter can provide ideal conditions for blight to set in or to return, even after a thorough clean-down. Bio films are difficult to clean. Many experts believe that disease formed may actually enter surfaces of old and decaying plastics and continue to appear even after apparent sterilization, since "dirt" cannot be sterilized.
Already accepted as the "Gold Standard" in the medical industry of surgical instruments, enzyme formulas have now been proven effective in hydroponics. Hygrozyme is effective in helping to keep the surfaces of pipes, pumps, reservoirs, and trays free of bio film build up.
REMEMBER: Hygrozyme does not kill anything. To be effective, it must be used before dead matter can develop and "grab" onto surfaces causing bio film build up - just like fire insurance for your home that must be purchased before the fire.
I flush my system with this prior to planting, leaving it to run through all the drippers etc for a couple of hours. Rinse down & Bob's your mother's brother! A clean system.
Stay safe
Can I use SM90, H2O2, and Zone all together? Should I drop one or the other? I'm in UC. Thanks
Oxydator
Oxydator
Hi Folks,
I was given this gizmo by a trusted gardener the other day & I'm wondering if any member has used one?
It's called the 'Oxydator' by Sochting and the one shown is for a 100L res.
They reccommend using their own 6% H2o2 solution (of course they do) but my pal has used 35% food grade with no problems.
Strangely it works with a tiny ceramic chip sitting in the bottom of the 'bell', and filled with H2o2. You flip it over & sit it in your res. Apparently the more debris etc built up in your res, the more H2o2 it releases. You can leave it in situ for up to 2 weeks, depending on the demand before refilling. Sounds fantastic doesn't it!
I'm gonna use it for this grow and post my findings but it would be nice to hear from someone who's already tested it.
Stay safe people
Oxydator
Hi Folks,
I was given this gizmo by a trusted gardener the other day & I'm wondering if any member has used one?
It's called the 'Oxydator' by Sochting and the one shown is for a 100L res.
They reccommend using their own 6% H2o2 solution (of course they do) but my pal has used 35% food grade with no problems.
Strangely it works with a tiny ceramic chip sitting in the bottom of the 'bell', and filled with H2o2. You flip it over & sit it in your res. Apparently the more debris etc built up in your res, the more H2o2 it releases. You can leave it in situ for up to 2 weeks, depending on the demand before refilling. Sounds fantastic doesn't it!
I'm gonna use it for this grow and post my findings but it would be nice to hear from someone who's already tested it.
Stay safe people
