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^all good info.
Also, if you are at the aggressive feeding stage and want to be supplying your plants with ~750 elemental ppm's of "good" nutes, if you do this in RO your TDS will still be low enough as to not burn the plants but if you were to add this amount of elemental ppm to say 560 ppm tap then your risking burning your plants, even though they are essentially be supplied the correct amount of good nutes.
IOW, RO + nutes makes for more efficient feeding because plants will eat more efficiently the lower the relative ppms are because they'll take up more nutes because they are taking up more water because the water isn't as "salty" so the transpiration effciency will increase, drawing up "good" nutes along with the water.
Not to mention that if your growing soiless and are planning on resusing the medium, or reveging, or just growing any other plant that will sit in the same soil for years.
Also, if you are at the aggressive feeding stage and want to be supplying your plants with ~750 elemental ppm's of "good" nutes, if you do this in RO your TDS will still be low enough as to not burn the plants but if you were to add this amount of elemental ppm to say 560 ppm tap then your risking burning your plants, even though they are essentially be supplied the correct amount of good nutes.
IOW, RO + nutes makes for more efficient feeding because plants will eat more efficiently the lower the relative ppms are because they'll take up more nutes because they are taking up more water because the water isn't as "salty" so the transpiration effciency will increase, drawing up "good" nutes along with the water.
Not to mention that if your growing soiless and are planning on resusing the medium, or reveging, or just growing any other plant that will sit in the same soil for years.
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G
Guest
i believed that very thing for years...then one day i said screw it...gave tap a try...hasent changed my yield in the slightest so again i say if you dont have a ro fillter dont sweat it...peace
BigCloset said:
extinctx11
Member
I feel like RO water made a difference. here the water is very very high in Ca, and very hard, with about 350~ppm. we live on a bed of limestone... so...
i was using tap for a while... you can even put it into a white container and the water looks yellow from the tap. i was always having a problem with watering because the EC would sky rocket and your not supposed to water above like .6 EC in soil and it was freaking .4 off the tap already. always stressed, curled, always looked like they were lacking something. now with the RO water they look like they are supposed to... flat even growth, no weird colors, just nice flat green. imo either i got better at doing my job somehow or the RO water helped alot.
i was using tap for a while... you can even put it into a white container and the water looks yellow from the tap. i was always having a problem with watering because the EC would sky rocket and your not supposed to water above like .6 EC in soil and it was freaking .4 off the tap already. always stressed, curled, always looked like they were lacking something. now with the RO water they look like they are supposed to... flat even growth, no weird colors, just nice flat green. imo either i got better at doing my job somehow or the RO water helped alot.
extinctx11
Member
bounty29 said:
I've been feeding at 2.0 EC since my plants were 3 weeks old, and they're looking as healthy as I've ever seen.
just going by
http://forum.cannabis-seeds.cc/index.php?showtopic=2000
"Before we look at the results it is important to understand one thing: generally one should never fertilize more than 0,8 EC on soil."
remember EC can be affected by things that dont actually fertilize such as bits of dissolved soil
goodmangigabyte
Member
In my area our tap water's pretty clean. Much as I'd like to get an RO filter I've already spent tons of $$ on this project and don't want to spend more on something that may or may not make a difference and will just make more work for me....
I'm just going by personal experience and the experience of many members here.
You can't make a blanket statement like that, either way. How high to push the EC is entirely strain and nute dependent. One strain might only be able to take 1.0ec, and others could go up to 2.5ec
.6 ec converts to 300ppm (or 420ppm if using the .7 conversion, heh) you're saying not to go over that? That's wrong. I've seen some strains that can take up to 2000ppm before burning. I don't think I've seen any grows where people don't go over 300ppm in flower.
Why you would have bits of dissolved soil in your nute mix before feeding, I have no idea.
You can't make a blanket statement like that, either way. How high to push the EC is entirely strain and nute dependent. One strain might only be able to take 1.0ec, and others could go up to 2.5ec
.6 ec converts to 300ppm (or 420ppm if using the .7 conversion, heh) you're saying not to go over that? That's wrong. I've seen some strains that can take up to 2000ppm before burning. I don't think I've seen any grows where people don't go over 300ppm in flower.
Why you would have bits of dissolved soil in your nute mix before feeding, I have no idea.
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G
Guest
Not all water is equal, so a test by your water supplier is essential to see what you can go off of. RO water is like starting with a clean slate so you know exactly what your plants are getting (although if you know your water content you can build off that). Personally my tap water is just fine so an RO filter would be a waste for me.
