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How do you like your indoor plants to finish for the best yield & smoking quality?

V

vonforne

I like them ugly VG the same as you. I use larger containers but I can trigger them to do much the same as you do with your smaller containers. I find that the plant itself knows when it is time to finish up much the same as if they were in an outside environment. During the last few weeks of flowering I do limit the water supply much the same as if they would be outside in late fall in a normal 4 season growing climate. I do not add and teas, nutrient of compost during this time. As the mircoorganism die off the plant uses the dispelled nutrients they have processed and once this is gone begin to pull nutrients from the remaining leaves giving me that ugly look. As we know this begins at the bottom of the plant where the mobile elements are drawn from first and continues to the upper part of the plant. During this time I notice it triggers the glands to begin changing color telling me that the plant is nearing harvest.

V
 

Dignan

The Soapmaker!
Veteran
A properly grown plant in organic soil will naturally flush itself towards the end of its life. Most people just don't have the patience to actually allow their plants to go long enough to be truly ripe, but if you try it, you'll see. The plants will stop uptaking nutrients from the rootzone and will begin pulling nutrients from the fan leaves.

The exception is if you (wittingly or unwittingly) allow your plants to get too dark green in veg/early flower.
 

sso

Active member
Veteran
my plants usually have ditched all the fanleaves about a week before i consider them ripe.

and by then (harvest) they are a sticky sugary mess with even some of the small leaves dying off. (i dont find this to decrease yield. by the time the fanleaves have died off, all growth is really stopped, only thing left is fake seedpods swelling up and resin production to go into overdrive.)

i mostly just give them good soil. feed rather seldomly.
 

mad librettist

Active member
Veteran
another possibility for tying up nutes is to put in a living mulch a few weeks before harvest. even clover is going to be grabbing any extra N, as it's too early and probably not enough light to fix it from the air. also, clover tends to use soil N if it is present, and only fixes atmospheric N when it needs to.
 

Slimm

Member
Blue dream, hempy, oc+

Blue dream, hempy, oc+

Here is a Blue dream I recently ran; pictured a few weeks from finish - just curing on the vine. Cured using Simon's method - smoked really nice.





:wave:
 
vonforne said:
I like them ugly VG the same as you. I use larger containers but I can trigger them to do much the same as you do with your smaller containers. I find that the plant itself knows when it is time to finish up much the same as if they were in an outside environment. During the last few weeks of flowering I do limit the water supply much the same as if they would be outside in late fall in a normal 4 season growing climate. I do not add and teas, nutrient of compost during this time. As the mircoorganism die off the plant uses the dispelled nutrients they have processed and once this is gone begin to pull nutrients from the remaining leaves giving me that ugly look. As we know this begins at the bottom of the plant where the mobile elements are drawn from first and continues to the upper part of the plant. During this time I notice it triggers the glands to begin changing color telling me that the plant is nearing harvest.


I like them ugly as well, and I reduce watering the last 2-3 weeks much like vonforne mentioned. Plants seem to get the point.

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rrog

Active member
Veteran
Anyone adding sulfur or molasses specifically for flavor? Some have added a sulfur source earlier in flower, some do molasses 2x during flower. Many feed the herd with some molasses, but some add materials just for the flavor. That's what I'm curious about
 

Scrappy4

senior member
Veteran
Anyone adding sulfur or molasses specifically for flavor? Some have added a sulfur source earlier in flower, some do molasses 2x during flower. Many feed the herd with some molasses, but some add materials just for the flavor. That's what I'm curious about


I have used gypsum and sul po mag, both have plenty of sulfur, but did not notice any taste differences. I do think I'm getting more flavor and sharper aromas from using botanical inputs though. But that might be my predigest more than fact.....scrappy
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
Hey Scrappy. I have no idea if any of these things actually enhance flavors. Some strong opinions both ways I've found. I'm inclined to try many things if there's no real downside except effort or some cash.
 
S

schwagg

G13Hz somewhere around a 100 days. nothing but rainwater it's whole life...


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Scrappy4

senior member
Veteran
Good job bro, that's the way I like to see them at harvest. Nice meaty buds too, you must have a great soil going on......scrappy
 

Jbonez

Active member
Veteran
Anyone adding sulfur or molasses specifically for flavor? Some have added a sulfur source earlier in flower, some do molasses 2x during flower. Many feed the herd with some molasses, but some add materials just for the flavor. That's what I'm curious about

Unsulfured blackstrap molasses is comonly used to feed a thriving colony of bacteria that turn raw mineral nutrients locked in organic media into a chelated form similiar to off the shelf hydroponics that is easily taken in.

Last I checked, it did nothing for the taste.. Dont get me wrong, I did organic for a minute, and Im not saying that Organic or hydro is better, neither wins anything in my book, its the grower and how well they take care of their gals.

G13Hz somewhere around a 100 days. nothing but rainwater it's whole life...


View Image

What happened to that plant? really just rain water? I thought rain water had lots of N? Could explain the serious deficiencies that plant was suffering.
 
I think studies have shown that plants can absorb some complex organic molecules and molasses has valuable chelating properties.
Also one of the more tired cliches, ‘less is more’, holds true,
especially when using molasses during the latter bits of flowering.

Makes for a fine foliar applicator as well, in lower concentrations of course.
 
Almost forgot, wanted to know whether the house has any thoughts on the impact of diminishing nutrient availability during late flowering and the showing of intersexed traits?
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
I don't know. I do organic soil so no reduction of nutes. Not heard of a hermie coming from late flower flushing.
 
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Jbonez

Active member
Veteran
Almost forgot, wanted to know whether the house has any thoughts on the impact of diminishing nutrient availability during late flowering and the showing of intersexed traits?

Ive heard some say stress of any kind, be it heat or lighting conditions, however, Ive never personally experienced this, but I dont flush, so I dont know.

Ive reversed a few of my gals, but we either interrupted the photoperiod or let the plants go well past their harvest to date to get hermies. (making S1's) otherwise I havent seen a hermie since my first time growing.
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
I think studies have shown that plants can absorb some complex organic molecules and molasses has valuable chelating properties.
Also one of the more tired cliches, ‘less is more’, holds true,
especially when using molasses during the latter bits of flowering.

Makes for a fine foliar applicator as well, in lower concentrations of course.

For sure. Other than the microbial benefits, the idea that some compounds might affect flavor is intriguing to me. I saw microbial inoculation (feeding them molasses) benefits way back when I did chem hydro.

Not I'm in pursuit of testing for flavor enhancements.
 

LilMan72003

Active member
it'll be interesting to see how that comes out rrog. was it highonmt that recommended it? he seems to know what he's doing.

has anyone ever tried ringbarking? i wonder of that of partial ringbarking might be worth a try if you are wanting your plants uglier at the end and cant make your soil weaker on the long term?

Hi VG;

I have used the technique you call ringbarking, or "girdling",a few times, a few ways. I consider myself a fan and supporter :tiphat:

I've tied metal wire tightly around the stem, piercing the cambium, and squeezing phloem tightly to restrict sugar transportation to the roots. Another method I have used is driving a stake halfway through the stem. I usually apply the girdle week 7-8, and let the plants finish up for two more weeks.

Though I have not conducted a true side by side comparison test, I am convinced that girdling increases bud size and resin production. It's like they go into overdrive. Many think that I am crazy to abuse my plants like this before harvest, but I call them closeminded. I also cut water water and stop feeding. I want the plants facing some stress before harvesting!!

Hope this helps

-Lilman
 
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