How tall is the average plants in your garden??
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HomemadePerpetualSOGcab....
- Thread starter TemptedSoul
- Start date
HempHut
Active member
Very nice cab, indeed.
A note about making a plywood box watertight:
You can get marine paint which is waterproof. Paint the interior with marine paint, allow to dry and then run a bead of silicone sealant down the seams. When working with silicone sealant use a relatively thin bead (just enough to cover the seam) and run it in one go down the entire length of the seam. When the bead is in place dip a finger in water (helps the silicone to not stick to your finger and also makes smoothing easier) and then run your finger over top the bead all the way along. Don't press too hard, but you want some pressure on there. Also, have a paper towel handy to wipe your finger after each time you smooth (remember to re-wet your finger for each time you smooth). This will force the majority of the sealant into the seam and also create a thin layer on either side of the seam on each piece of the join. This is how aquarium manufacturers make tanks out of all glass. I used to work in a pet store as a kid and picked the brains of the guys who made our tanks. I've made several of my own tanks this way.
Silicone takes at least 24 hours to dry, but should be left to upwards of a week to be sure it has cured fully.
A note about making a plywood box watertight:
You can get marine paint which is waterproof. Paint the interior with marine paint, allow to dry and then run a bead of silicone sealant down the seams. When working with silicone sealant use a relatively thin bead (just enough to cover the seam) and run it in one go down the entire length of the seam. When the bead is in place dip a finger in water (helps the silicone to not stick to your finger and also makes smoothing easier) and then run your finger over top the bead all the way along. Don't press too hard, but you want some pressure on there. Also, have a paper towel handy to wipe your finger after each time you smooth (remember to re-wet your finger for each time you smooth). This will force the majority of the sealant into the seam and also create a thin layer on either side of the seam on each piece of the join. This is how aquarium manufacturers make tanks out of all glass. I used to work in a pet store as a kid and picked the brains of the guys who made our tanks. I've made several of my own tanks this way.
Silicone takes at least 24 hours to dry, but should be left to upwards of a week to be sure it has cured fully.
TemptedSoul
Member
Still Here! Just life kickin my ass a liitle bit!
As far as height is concerned, I've had 8 inchers and I've had 30 inchers. The height I'm shooting for is about 16 inches or so. I think that every variable effects final height and strains have tendencies(ex.:sativas tend to finish taller) and with enough study and attention any certain strain can be "coached" to a finish height of 16 inches! Hoping bud density can be coached as well!!!Workin on it!!!
C
Cozy Amnesia
Well done sir.
TemptedSoul
Member
Awesome link! Gonna have to check this out! Thats the best price ever for 150 watt hps! Wish I could find some cheap metal halides like that!
CaptainStoner
Member
That's a seriously nice grow. Have been wondering what using small HIDs would do to the drbud method.. Tempting to try a HID now.. dammit lol
Like the idea of fibreglass res too. might have to copy that one.
5*
Like the idea of fibreglass res too. might have to copy that one.
5*
TemptedSoul
Member
Thats exactly why I built this cab! I was reading Doc's original cfl thread and I just kept thinking cfl=good, hps=better. Then one day while checking all the available stuff at lowes, I found a 30$ 70 watt hps fixture with bulb and a light went off in my head! Another guy in town has a saltwater fish store and he made all of his own display tanks. Three sides plywood-one side glass with the plywood covered with fiberglass resin! He swore by it! For versatility and durability.
Proximity is what I really latched on to from DrBud! With proximity you dont need as many watts, hence temps are easier to control and you can put the light where it will do the most good(still learning where that is)!
drelow31@yahoo.
Member
THAT IS 1 BEAUTIFUL SET UP U GOT THERE DRE
S
statictattoo
E
eLiguL
Thats a really intricate box you got there 
.
If I was reading correctly you have six 70w HPS bulbs in flowering chamber??
6 x 70w = 420w?
.If I was reading correctly you have six 70w HPS bulbs in flowering chamber??
6 x 70w = 420w?
CaptainStoner
Member
I'm going to get a few harvests under my belt with CFL in my cab then test the grow with a small HID
TemptedSoul
Member
You got it! 6x70=420! One question I have is why more people are'nt doing this. Like this, you can put the lumens where u need the lumens. There must be a flaw here I have'nt seen yet!
i think most are just scared of the heat the hids produce since most micro growers try to cool with pc fans. im with ya though, i think having multiple light sources is the way to go since with the lower wattage bulbs, you can get them closer. im hoping to do something similar with a mix of HID and cfls. any updates temptedsoul?
E
eLiguL
TemptedSoul said:
Seems like its a lot of maintainance, 6 ballast, 6 bulbs, 6 outlets to plug into. Some people prefer the conveinence of 1 bulb and 1 ballast, out of curiousity much does one 70w bulb cost??
S
statictattoo
From what i gather 4 x 100 watt hps bulbs are not better then 1 x 400 watt bulb due to intensity.. the most intensity you would get is 200 watts on the cross pattern inbetween two 100 watters
Aivoödeema
Member
This is exactly what Im planning to make some day.
Very nice.
Very nice.
BigBlack81
Member
I agree. Some technical questions if you'd be so kind to answer, sirrah:
1. On your flowering section you said in your first post that you had sectioned off a part for flushing. I love your system in terms of E&F maintainence and watering but I'm still a little confused as to how you sectioned and routed the flushing part of your flowering side. Can you provide some pics or a description of the res setup and how you did the tubing and such?
2. A follow up; you said you run multiple strains and rotate off bonsai mums. Do you ever mix strains in the same pot when you plant two clones at the same time? I'm looking to have a sativa and a matching indica pairing each week in one pot if this works and I'm wondering how the nute profiles overall deal with a flat rate in terms of feeding. Do you lose yield, IYO, from not having a more customized nutrient feeding regimen or does the diversity of your box demand a more conservative ranged number?
Any help would rule as your system plus the Doc's methods and others will make a better stronger system for all. You rule.
1. On your flowering section you said in your first post that you had sectioned off a part for flushing. I love your system in terms of E&F maintainence and watering but I'm still a little confused as to how you sectioned and routed the flushing part of your flowering side. Can you provide some pics or a description of the res setup and how you did the tubing and such?
2. A follow up; you said you run multiple strains and rotate off bonsai mums. Do you ever mix strains in the same pot when you plant two clones at the same time? I'm looking to have a sativa and a matching indica pairing each week in one pot if this works and I'm wondering how the nute profiles overall deal with a flat rate in terms of feeding. Do you lose yield, IYO, from not having a more customized nutrient feeding regimen or does the diversity of your box demand a more conservative ranged number?
Any help would rule as your system plus the Doc's methods and others will make a better stronger system for all. You rule.
BigBlack81
Member
eLiguL said:
I'd like to know this as well, along with how does all the electricals and such look back there. I'm not criticizing the theory but I'd love to know because the more I look at this, the more I want to do multiple lights but I'd want the most simple electrical setup possible. With the lack of space, we need to make all designs on this ilk as simple as possible for safety concerns.
Would you need multiple ballasts with multiple lights and if so, how would you wire that? I need to know this as this might be the key to getting large yield without large space. All help makes our buds sweeter. Respect.
BigBlack81 - the 70w HPS Security Light is $30 at Lowes and yea you need a ballast for each bulb which means you need a plug for every light in the cab and thats a lot of wiring but a lovely cab... Goodluck
