Help with leaf problem...please?

[Old Toker]

Hopefully somebody can help identify what is going on. Checked the self help photos but couldn't find anything that looked like a match. Growing DTW in coco....which I rinsed, charge with calcium (twice) and rinsed again until zero PPMs..then charged with 5.8 Ph - 200 TDS nutrient solution. Using Masterblend, Mr Fulvic and hydro-guard....all according to directions and at least 20% runoff.. Current TDS 600. Ph pen has been cleaned and the calibration checked. Any ideas about what might cause these spots? Thanks in advance!

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[TanzanianMagic]

At first glance, I would say that the yellowing of the leaves point to magnesium lockout, and the curling of the leaves points to pH issues.

1. It is always best to use bagged coco that doesn't need charging - like from Canna, Plagron or Biobizz.
2. When growing in coco, use coco nutrients. Maxicrop is a hydroponic nutrient, with very high NPK numbers. Unlike what many people say, coco isn't hydroponics.

Plants take up nutrients from the medium through their roots, so it is more important to grow a large healthy root system, than to increase nutrient concentration. Also the larger the pot, the smaller the chance of nutrient deficiencies. Phosphorus stimulates root growth, so a light concentration (200PPM) of a high P or high PK late blooming solution is enough to stimulate root growth. Add 50 PPM of Epsom Salt for magnesium, and the foliage becomes very healthy and responsive.

For the plant to be fed, healthy root growth is more important than nutrient concentration.

Practically speaking, what I would do is flush, and then feed with 0.4 EC/200PPM of the Maxicrop (NPK 4-18-38). And 0.1 EC/50 PPM of epsom salt (MgSO4).

The pH in coco should be held at 6.0 throughout seedling, vegging and early flowering. This is also the medium's natural pH, so there won't be any major pH swings.

Mg - leaves
P - roots
K - stems and branches
N - internal processes (part of proteins, aminoacids, chlorophyl)

A lot of the plant's nitrogen comes from the air as NO3 and is absorbed by the leaves, wether it's directly or through nitrogen fixing bacteria on the leaves as intermediaries.

 

[Popey]

Isn't that Tomato Mosaic Virus?

 

[Old Toker]

Thank you TM for the insight and help. Although I am using Masterblend and not Maxicrop.....I will flush and add light nutes. Not sure what to do about the Ph issue as I believe my Ph pen to be accurate and these plants have never seen Ph higher than 6.0 or less than 5.7. Thanks again.

..2. When growing in coco, use coco nutrients. Maxicrop is a hydroponic nutrient, with very high NPK numbers. Unlike what many people say, coco isn't hydroponics.

...Practically speaking, what I would do is flush, and then feed with 0.4 EC/200PPM of the Maxicrop (NPK 4-18-38). And 0.1 EC/50 PPM of epsom salt (MgSO4).

 

[B.T. Herb]

HI Old toker. can i ask you if we are talking about a young cut?

 

[B.T. Herb]

not sure about a ph issue.i stand for a nutrient disease. i'm not even sure about Ca.
i'll try explain:
i usually find that kind of curling once nutrients solution get immediately higher than the one you have dropped before.from what i see i can only guess we are talking about a cut or a young crop that got a strong diet followed by a lighter one.masterblend is preatty high in Pk and N to PK ratio is very wide.Taanz is right.is then your CA a calcium nitrate formula? does it bring any N to your recipe?.About that spot i would like to say that you'v overcome that kind of issue but ,from what i can see, a kind of light chlorosi is coming on and excluding an overwatering by looking at your pot, and by comparing chromatic contrast between bottom and upper leaves i would think that you have "flushed" more than it deserves and you 'll be better add some N, at the moment.

but theese are just my two cents
all the best

 

[Old Toker]

Thank you BT! These are two fem sativas from seed about 6 weeks old and only recently topped. After topping I fed 500 PPM and then two days ago increased to 600 PPM. Too late not to flush....I ran a half gallon of 5.9 Ph'd (after AGAIN confirming my Ph pen was correct) water through each of the 1 gal pots. Waited an hour and ran another 1/2 gal through each pot. Waited another hour and ran another 1/2 gal of 600 PPM nutes. My nutes include calcium nitrate in the quantity and ratio as prescribed by Masterblend and yes it does bring nitrogen to the equation. . Definitely need to let this coco "dry" out for at least 24 hours before trying anything else.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YS779G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1A3MPEUS64FBE&psc=1

Thanks again for the suggestions....I guess I'll just have to wait and see whether the flush and new dose of nutes helps. I'll post back in a day or two.

 

[B.T. Herb]

.I guess I'll just have to wait and see whether the flush and new dose of nutes helps. I'll post back in a day or two.

just triyng to...you know. anyway
best choice, brother.definetly

all the best

 

[Old Toker]

just triyng to...you know.

Yes....I know... and I appreciate your efforts. Please don't go away (stay right at your KB for 24 hours)...let's see what they look like in a day. Thanks again for your help!

 

[B.T. Herb]

subscribed, bro. and you are welcome...

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Thank you TM for the insight and help. Although I am using Masterblend and not Maxicrop.....I will flush and add light nutes. Not sure what to do about the Ph issue as I believe my Ph pen to be accurate and these plants have never seen Ph higher than 6.0 or less than 5.7. Thanks again.

I'm sorry, I meant and was referring to Masterblend, which has an NPK of 4-18-38.

Masterblend makes nutrients for lawns, golf courses and large greenhouses. Canna, Plagron and Biobizz make nutrients specifically for coco coir. Their bagged coir needs no buffering solution.

Keeping the nutrient solution at 6.0 at most times is best, because it doesn't challenge the buffering capacity of the coco coir, which is naturally around 6.0.

 

[Old Toker]

Thank you TM for the insight, and in the future I may need to revisit my coco choices. In the mean time ....I need to work with what I have. I'd be interested in your opinions of the plants 24 hours after the flush and re-application of nutes. Thanks again for your help and advice.

 

[Old Toker]

24 hours after the flush and re-application of nutes. I think they look better....but it's still a little early. The pots still seem heavy (not too surprising considering how much liquid I poured through them yesterday) so not going to feed them today. Any opinions?

 

[Creeperpark]

Keep your water, EC, and pH consistent and keep growing.

 

[B.T. Herb]

hi Old Toker. really better. and healty ! overwatering usually produce a sort of clorosis, a light one sort and i seee nothing but good things in there.
then... i' m oriented to say that this depends on how much your pot is rooted. at least, in a full rooted pot it's quite difficult that an overwatering shall manifest itself despite the weight. but, any perlite as draining? did you place some raw coco on the surface?anyway...
...at least you could always spry something, if on need.

all the best

 

[Old Toker]

Keep your water, EC, and pH consistent and keep growing.

Thank you! I am surprised the flush seemed to work so well....but yes....if it's not broken then I'm not going to fix it.

 

[Old Toker]

...really better. and healty !

Thank you sir....I agree!

overwatering usually produce a sort of clorosis, a light one sort and i seee nothing but good things in there.
then... i' m oriented to say that this depends on how much your pot is rooted. at least, in a full rooted pot it's quite difficult that an overwatering shall manifest itself despite the weight. but, any perlite as draining? did you place some raw coco on the surface?anyway...
...at least you could always spry something, if on need.

all the best

Pure coco....no perlite. 1 gal pots that were hopefully going to be "up-potted" to their final 3 gal pots today (two weeks). I would say that they are fully rooted (wet/dry cycles) but figured to give them a few more days to recover from whatever I did to them...or failed to do for them.
Haven't heard about the raw coco on the surface? What is raw and what does it accomplish?

Thanks again for your help and continued support.

Regards....OT

 

[Old Toker]

Final photo....they seem to have bounced back. A little un-nerving not to know specifically what caused this problem....but if it happens again (God forbid) I am going to do that thing where you catch the runoff as you add new Ph nutes. That might give me some idea of why the flush seemed to help so much. Also, needless to say (but I will)...I am going to flush the crap out of the coco that I'm using for the up-pot.

If I ever figure out what actually caused this issue.....I will post back.

Thanks everyone! including the person that suggested that I had tomato plague....or whatever the hell that was.