johnnyrotten
That is Dolomite Lime - Calcium + Magnesium Carbonate
That is Dolomite Lime - Calcium + Magnesium Carbonate
Help trying organic for the first time
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johnnyrotten
Member
Help trying organic for the first time
Too bad it trying to get me to but it CA... None of it here... Going to the hydro store...
Too bad it trying to get me to but it CA... None of it here... Going to the hydro store...
RanchoDeluxe
Member
Johnny- Whether or not you pick CC's or Stan's mix...I would follow them exactly. If you can't for some reason, tell us about it and we'll put you on the right track man. Since I've cut dolomite lime from my mix I'm a much happier guy. I use coco fiber and chunk at 10% each.
Aloe- This is a miracle...I moved this summer and was having a hell of a time getting clones started. Humidity was hanging in the single digits and my veg plants were suffering while I was getting up and running. I soaked Rapid Rooters in Aloe/protekt/kelp/alfalfa.....Bam 48 out of 50 healthy cuts.
Aloe- This is a miracle...I moved this summer and was having a hell of a time getting clones started. Humidity was hanging in the single digits and my veg plants were suffering while I was getting up and running. I soaked Rapid Rooters in Aloe/protekt/kelp/alfalfa.....Bam 48 out of 50 healthy cuts.
Whistling past the graveyard......
johnnyrotten
Member
Help trying organic for the first time
I don't know anything about a graveyard but if I don't need dolomite lime, I won't get it but Gascanstanley's recipe has it in there mixed with some other lining agents...
CC, I've seen a couple of your recipes... Can you give me a link to the most current one?
I don't know anything about a graveyard but if I don't need dolomite lime, I won't get it but Gascanstanley's recipe has it in there mixed with some other lining agents...
CC, I've seen a couple of your recipes... Can you give me a link to the most current one?
Sure......
Soil Base - Per Cubic Foot
33% Alaska Peat Moss (brand name)
33% Pumice
33% Combination of Malibu Biodynamic Compost, Oly Mountain Organic Fish Compost and my vermicompost
Plants are top-dressed with 2" of vermicompost
Amendment Mix
1/2 cup Organic Neem or Karanja Meal
1/2 cup Organic Kelp Meal
Rock Dust Mix
4 cups Basalt & Glacial Rock Dust Mix
Lime
1/2 cup Gypsum
1/2 cup Crab Meal
The worm bins are amended with kelp, neem and crab meals during their cycle at about the same rate per c.f. of compost or manure as the soil mix
Soil Base - Per Cubic Foot
33% Alaska Peat Moss (brand name)
33% Pumice
33% Combination of Malibu Biodynamic Compost, Oly Mountain Organic Fish Compost and my vermicompost
Plants are top-dressed with 2" of vermicompost
Amendment Mix
1/2 cup Organic Neem or Karanja Meal
1/2 cup Organic Kelp Meal
Rock Dust Mix
4 cups Basalt & Glacial Rock Dust Mix
Lime
1/2 cup Gypsum
1/2 cup Crab Meal
The worm bins are amended with kelp, neem and crab meals during their cycle at about the same rate per c.f. of compost or manure as the soil mix
johnnyrotten
Member
Help trying organic for the first time
Thank you CC!
Thank you CC!
johnnyrotten
Member
Help trying organic for the first time
Looking at the list, I'm not going to be able to get that last 33% of the base, they aren't sold where I'm at... What should I substitute for these?
Looking at the list, I'm not going to be able to get that last 33% of the base, they aren't sold where I'm at... What should I substitute for these?
DuckDuckGoose
Member
your best bet would be to find somebody that sells red wiggler worms and get them to chop you some of their worm castings. i got some off of a 'worm lady' and they were really nice. all types of activity like baby worms and stuff crawling around. try kijiji or craigslist for people with compost for sale or sometimes free if you pick it up...
DDG
johnnyrotten
Member
Help trying organic for the first time
Yes, I have a source for red wiggler worms and castings locally... $1/lb...and the local garden shop has everything from humus to fresh manure... I found a guy selling large loads of compost as well... I won't have a problem getting that...
Yes, I have a source for red wiggler worms and castings locally... $1/lb...and the local garden shop has everything from humus to fresh manure... I found a guy selling large loads of compost as well... I won't have a problem getting that...
johnnyrotten
Member
ok CC,
I'm checking this out more closely now and I have some questions...
Peat moss - does the brand matter as long as I use the highest quality that is available to me?
Pumice - I don't recall ever seeing pumice before but I did some reading and I think that I would rather use this than perlite. Since I have perlite, would it be a problem to use it until I run out? I only have around .5 cu ft of perlite left...
When you say vermicompost, do you mean worm castings or the worms castings and some of the actual compost they've been feeding on? You mix this in as 33% of your soil base and then top dress with 2" of it? Do those 2" ever need to be replenished?
I can find Glacial Rock Dust for sale on ebay... Do you buy yours from a local store or know of where I can get this?
I typically veg for 4-6 weeks and one of my clones went 12 weeks in flower..I was hoping that there would be a good top dressing to use if the soil didn't have enough nutrients to get her to the end...If I use 7 gal pots how often should I need to water?
This looks like a good mix, I researched everything in it and I can see why you use certain things over those in other recipes...including the one that I was initially going to use...
Thanks!
I'm checking this out more closely now and I have some questions...
Peat moss - does the brand matter as long as I use the highest quality that is available to me?
Pumice - I don't recall ever seeing pumice before but I did some reading and I think that I would rather use this than perlite. Since I have perlite, would it be a problem to use it until I run out? I only have around .5 cu ft of perlite left...
When you say vermicompost, do you mean worm castings or the worms castings and some of the actual compost they've been feeding on? You mix this in as 33% of your soil base and then top dress with 2" of it? Do those 2" ever need to be replenished?
I can find Glacial Rock Dust for sale on ebay... Do you buy yours from a local store or know of where I can get this?
I typically veg for 4-6 weeks and one of my clones went 12 weeks in flower..I was hoping that there would be a good top dressing to use if the soil didn't have enough nutrients to get her to the end...If I use 7 gal pots how often should I need to water?
This looks like a good mix, I researched everything in it and I can see why you use certain things over those in other recipes...including the one that I was initially going to use...
Thanks!
johnnyrotten
You want to buy straight Sphagnum Peat Moss and there are not that many packers as the Canadian harvest is tightly controlled by about 10 companies. Look for 'Premier Peat'
Pumice - if you want to use Perlite then go for it. I personally detest Perlite because if there's any wind it blows everywhere and it moves around in the strata but it doesn't matter. I've used rice hulls as well. Aeration amendments are not going to make or break your success.
Worm Castings do not exist as it takes well over a year to turn the material into 100% worm castings. Vermicompost should be about 65 - 70% castings. The price on pure worm castings is in the stratosphere as you would expect.
Gaia Green controls the Canadian glacial rock dust mine located in British Columbia. You can hit their web site and find a list of retailers for Canada as well as the USA
Top Dressing - I usually lay another couple of inches near the beginning of the flower cycle but use your own evaluation on how the plants are moving along.
Watering I can't help you with because I use the Tropf Blumat drippers so everything is on auto-pilot.
HTH
CC
You want to buy straight Sphagnum Peat Moss and there are not that many packers as the Canadian harvest is tightly controlled by about 10 companies. Look for 'Premier Peat'
Pumice - if you want to use Perlite then go for it. I personally detest Perlite because if there's any wind it blows everywhere and it moves around in the strata but it doesn't matter. I've used rice hulls as well. Aeration amendments are not going to make or break your success.
Worm Castings do not exist as it takes well over a year to turn the material into 100% worm castings. Vermicompost should be about 65 - 70% castings. The price on pure worm castings is in the stratosphere as you would expect.
Gaia Green controls the Canadian glacial rock dust mine located in British Columbia. You can hit their web site and find a list of retailers for Canada as well as the USA
Top Dressing - I usually lay another couple of inches near the beginning of the flower cycle but use your own evaluation on how the plants are moving along.
Watering I can't help you with because I use the Tropf Blumat drippers so everything is on auto-pilot.
HTH
CC
johnnyrotten
Member
Help trying organic for the first time
CC,
Do you feed any teas or anything besides the soil?
CC,
Do you feed any teas or anything besides the soil?
johnnyrotten
I use pure Fulvic acid, pure Humic acid and sprouted seed teas (enzymes) with a supporting role from Aloe vera extract and liquid Silica (like Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt). I also make an alfalfa & kelp meal tea if needed by looking at the plants to see if things need some slight adjustments.
But as it's usually defined, I don't have a 'nute program' as such. The humus materials in the soil mix take care of the heavy lifting in that regard. Just like in the 'real world' so that makes me a really lousy customer at grow stores.
CC
I use pure Fulvic acid, pure Humic acid and sprouted seed teas (enzymes) with a supporting role from Aloe vera extract and liquid Silica (like Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt). I also make an alfalfa & kelp meal tea if needed by looking at the plants to see if things need some slight adjustments.
But as it's usually defined, I don't have a 'nute program' as such. The humus materials in the soil mix take care of the heavy lifting in that regard. Just like in the 'real world' so that makes me a really lousy customer at grow stores.
CC
johnnyrotten
Member
Help trying organic for the first time
So, your enzyme tea... Is that to help protect the root and soil system? Alfalfa tea if showing N def and kelp for PK ?
So, your enzyme tea... Is that to help protect the root and soil system? Alfalfa tea if showing N def and kelp for PK ?
The enzyme teas have given me increased resin levels, aroma as well as increased strength on the side branches especially in the branch girth & tinsel strength.
I'm not much into the whole NPK deal (Liebig's Law aka Law of Minimums) and view it as another canard to push fertilizers and non-sustainable farming/gardening in general. The race to hit some theoretical nute profile is how we got to where we're at as far as food production and in particular the weird approaches used by commercial nurseries.
I'm in the minority on this one and that's fine. Then again I'm not trying to sell bottles of gunk containing 99.3% water identified on labels as Inert Ingredients - talk about a catch-all term.
HTH
CC
I'm not much into the whole NPK deal (Liebig's Law aka Law of Minimums) and view it as another canard to push fertilizers and non-sustainable farming/gardening in general. The race to hit some theoretical nute profile is how we got to where we're at as far as food production and in particular the weird approaches used by commercial nurseries.
I'm in the minority on this one and that's fine. Then again I'm not trying to sell bottles of gunk containing 99.3% water identified on labels as Inert Ingredients - talk about a catch-all term.
HTH
CC
RanchoDeluxe
Member
Since I started using barley teas and protekt the girth of the main stem and branches is simply off the charts. My veg plants are so goddamn healthy I can hear them laughing when some PM lands on them.
That's certainly the best way I've come across to take care of PM.
Johnny- Are you familiar with the "lift" method to determine when to water? If so, forget you ever learned it.
Wet/dry cycle...forget that too.
Ideally we are trying to keep the soil evenly moist...not soggy. If you pick up the pot and it feels like it is full of water...leave it be. If it feels like it is almost empty...you waited a bit too long. I never really water until I see runoff anymore. There is no black/white answer here as far as every two days or three or whatever. You need to water when the plant needs it.
That's certainly the best way I've come across to take care of PM.
Johnny- Are you familiar with the "lift" method to determine when to water? If so, forget you ever learned it.
Wet/dry cycle...forget that too.
Ideally we are trying to keep the soil evenly moist...not soggy. If you pick up the pot and it feels like it is full of water...leave it be. If it feels like it is almost empty...you waited a bit too long. I never really water until I see runoff anymore. There is no black/white answer here as far as every two days or three or whatever. You need to water when the plant needs it.
johnnyrotten
Member
Help trying organic for the first time
Well, I guess if your soil and its environment is working correctly then you don't need to worry about NPK levels with organic...
So, do you use the acids in the tea as well?
Well, I guess if your soil and its environment is working correctly then you don't need to worry about NPK levels with organic...
So, do you use the acids in the tea as well?
Only once a week - hi-dosing with legitimate Humic & Fulvic acids will create problems that cannot be fixed.
Ever.
johnnyrotten
Member
Help trying organic for the first time
So don't overdo that stuff or it creates problems you won't ever fix... I'm gonna do some reading on that too...
Do you use teas with blumats or do you top water those?
So don't overdo that stuff or it creates problems you won't ever fix... I'm gonna do some reading on that too...
Do you use teas with blumats or do you top water those?
