Help On Diagnosing Problem On First Grow...

[Kweku Ananse]

Couldn't find the info I was looking for... Grotek CalMax? What % Ca? % Mg? Sources of these minerals?

Also, your temps look good, your rh% could afford to be higher in veg. I've noticed healthier looking leaves/ fewer ripples, when using proper vapor pressure deficit (try researching about this), I think at 24c you can get up to 70-75%rh. Trick is to have mad fans to keep the plants from forming any condensation/moulds...

But overall your plants look great! You are being a harsh critic. Check your pH every time, I agree with 5.7-6.0, I usually go for 5.8-5.9 in coco. And experiment with watering at a lower frequency. Let the top 1/4-1/2" of coco get DRY before watering. Then the plants/environment will dictate how often you NEED to water. Seriously, my noob opinion is pH is a teensy bit high, and roots love oxygen.

-Kweku

 

[Lester Beans]

Ok where to start. Don't add more cal/mag. Your tap has plenty.

I read in your first post you fed them equal parts GH. That will cause problems, especially that much micros. In veg they show be mixed at a ratio of 3:2:1.

It looks like you are growing in hydroton (expanded clay pellets)? But I read coco too? Ok did you wash the grow rocks before planting?

I couldn't keep track of all the things you threw at em so I think at this point you should transplant to straight grow rocks, pH feed to 5.8. Water 2-4 times a day, depending on how fast they dry. Once transplanted and they begin to grow, you should see pH slightly rise and ppm slightly decrease when everything is operating well. After 10 days flip to 12/12. Change res out once a week.

Also veg light run at 18/6 as some darkness will be nice for them.

Anymore probs pm me and I'll keep an eye on this thread. We will get those girls looking hot!!

Best, les

 

[BP75]

First of all thank u guys for your time and advice...
i'll try to clarify things a little bit better...

what improvements are you looking to see exactly? any damage on the leaves is PERMANENT. so i hope you're not looking for that to reverse. what you should be looking for is new growth and how fast it's progressing.

I just wanted to get a better understanding of what was the cause of these problems Stihg...i know the damage is permanent and i am not hoping for the damaged parts to heal but i see slow growing plants with twisted new growth and i want to make them healthy ... and i just can't understand why because of lack of experience that is why your experience is so valuable to me. thanks man.

Couldn't find the info I was looking for... Grotek CalMax? What % Ca? % Mg? Sources of these minerals?

Also, your temps look good, your rh% could afford to be higher in veg. I've noticed healthier looking leaves/ fewer ripples, when using proper vapor pressure deficit (try researching about this), I think at 24c you can get up to 70-75%rh. Trick is to have mad fans to keep the plants from forming any condensation/moulds...

But overall your plants look great! You are being a harsh critic. Check your pH every time, I agree with 5.7-6.0, I usually go for 5.8-5.9 in coco. And experiment with watering at a lower frequency. Let the top 1/4-1/2" of coco get DRY before watering. Then the plants/environment will dictate how often you NEED to water. Seriously, my noob opinion is pH is a teensy bit high, and roots love oxygen.

-Kweku

Hello Kweku... grotex is a 2-0-0 N-P-K with 3.0% Calcium , 1.0% Magnesium and 0.1% Fe
my temps were good unfortunately heat has come this part of the globe and now i'm heaving 31C max temp daytime and 26 lights off
RH is stable floating from 45%-55% i'll try these days to low the temps under 30C and will add aome container with water and point the fan directly...this should help raisin humidity.
i'm letting the coco dry till the buckets feel real light lately but i was feeding every day some 10days ago. i've always PH-ed @5.7... only the first week my meter was off so i believe i fed the 4.7 or thereabout water...i quickly calibrated and have always fed @5.7 apart the last week where i went to 5.8 then 5.9 then last feeding was 6.00PH in an attempt to see some positive reaction...
your opinion is really welcome.thanks.

Ok where to start. Don't add more cal/mag. Your tap has plenty.

I read in your first post you fed them equal parts GH. That will cause problems, especially that much micros. In veg they show be mixed at a ratio of 3:2:1.

It looks like you are growing in hydroton (expanded clay pellets)? But I read coco too? Ok did you wash the grow rocks before planting?

I couldn't keep track of all the things you threw at em so I think at this point you should transplant to straight grow rocks, pH feed to 5.8. Water 2-4 times a day, depending on how fast they dry. Once transplanted and they begin to grow, you should see pH slightly rise and ppm slightly decrease when everything is operating well. After 10 days flip to 12/12. Change res out once a week.

Also veg light run at 18/6 as some darkness will be nice for them.

Anymore probs pm me and I'll keep an eye on this thread. We will get those girls looking hot!!

Best, les

Hey Les thanks man , how can i PM you? i'm relatively new to the forum.
ok, i'll leave the cal.mag for now...
yes i have always fed equal parts of GH flora series... i followed their schedule this one...

What do you mean by 3-2-1? 3part micro-2partgrow-1part bloom?
i was actually thinking of changing my schedule to this...

it looked strange to me that there was diff. schedules from GH for different parts of the globe.

i am using 3.5 Gallon pots, hempy style with grodan croutons in the res...2cm chunks. the hydroton is there to prevent holes in the coco when i water, there is just a little on top of each bucket, and although because i made the mistake of transplanting them to deep in the bucket... damn experience.
i ph the grodan rockwool chunks @5.7 for 12 hours... and washed the hydroton as best as i could , ph them also @ 5.7.
i turned them @ 12/12 today... i felt this was early... i know it nut i can't do otherwise... i need them to be finished in the next 60 days or so... i just hope they produce a nice quality yield by the end.

 

[BP75]

First of all thank u guys for your time and advice...
i'll try to clarify things a little bit better...


I just wanted to get a better understanding of what was the cause of these problems Stihg...i know the damage is permanent and i am not hoping for the damaged parts to heal but i see slow growing plants with twisted new growth and i want to make them healthy ... and i just can't understand why because of lack of experience that is why your experience is so valuable to me. thanks man.



Hello Kweku... grotex is a 2-0-0 N-P-K with 3.0% Calcium , 1.0% Magnesium and 0.1% Fe
my temps were good unfortunately heat has come this part of the globe and now i'm heaving 31C max temp daytime and 26 lights off
RH is stable floating from 45%-55% i'll try these days to low the temps under 30C and will add aome container with water and point the fan directly...this should help raisin humidity.
i'm letting the coco dry till the buckets feel real light lately but i was feeding every day some 10days ago. i've always PH-ed @5.7... only the first week my meter was off so i believe i fed the 4.7 or thereabout water...i quickly calibrated and have always fed @5.7 apart the last week where i went to 5.8 then 5.9 then last feeding was 6.00PH in an attempt to see some positive reaction...
your opinion is really welcome.thanks.



Hey Les thanks man , how can i PM you? i'm relatively new to the forum.
ok, i'll leave the cal.mag for now...
yes i have always fed equal parts of GH flora series... i followed their schedule this one...
View attachment CHART-FLORA-SERIES-.pdf

What do you mean by 3-2-1? 3part micro-2partgrow-1part bloom?
i was actually thinking of changing my schedule to this...
View attachment GH_FloraSeries-Expert.pdf

it looked strange to me that there was diff. schedules from GH for different parts of the globe.

i am using 3.5 Gallon pots, hempy style with grodan croutons in the res...2cm chunks. the hydroton is there to prevent holes in the coco when i water, there is just a little on top of each bucket, and although because i made the mistake of transplanting them to deep in the bucket... damn experience.
i ph the grodan rockwool chunks @5.7 for 12 hours... and washed the hydroton as best as i could , ph them also @ 5.7.
i turned them @ 12/12 today... i felt this was early... i know it nut i can't do otherwise... i need them to be finished in the next 60 days or so... i just hope they produce a nice quality yield by the end.

1

 

[Kweku Ananse]

First of all thank u guys for your time and advice...
i'll try to clarify things a little bit better...


I just wanted to get a better understanding of what was the cause of these problems Stihg...i know the damage is permanent and i am not hoping for the damaged parts to heal but i see slow growing plants with twisted new growth and i want to make them healthy ... and i just can't understand why because of lack of experience that is why your experience is so valuable to me. thanks man.



Hello Kweku... grotex is a 2-0-0 N-P-K with 3.0% Calcium , 1.0% Magnesium and 0.1% Fe
my temps were good unfortunately heat has come this part of the globe and now i'm heaving 31C max temp daytime and 26 lights off
RH is stable floating from 45%-55% i'll try these days to low the temps under 30C and will add aome container with water and point the fan directly...this should help raisin humidity.
i'm letting the coco dry till the buckets feel real light lately but i was feeding every day some 10days ago. i've always PH-ed @5.7... only the first week my meter was off so i believe i fed the 4.7 or thereabout water...i quickly calibrated and have always fed @5.7 apart the last week where i went to 5.8 then 5.9 then last feeding was 6.00PH in an attempt to see some positive reaction...
your opinion is really welcome.thanks.



Hey Les thanks man , how can i PM you? i'm relatively new to the forum.
ok, i'll leave the cal.mag for now...
yes i have always fed equal parts of GH flora series... i followed their schedule this one...

What do you mean by 3-2-1? 3part micro-2partgrow-1part bloom?
i was actually thinking of changing my schedule to this...

it looked strange to me that there was diff. schedules from GH for different parts of the globe.

i am using 3.5 Gallon pots, hempy style with grodan croutons in the res...2cm chunks. the hydroton is there to prevent holes in the coco when i water, there is just a little on top of each bucket, and although because i made the mistake of transplanting them to deep in the bucket... damn experience.
i ph the grodan rockwool chunks @5.7 for 12 hours... and washed the hydroton as best as i could , ph them also @ 5.7.
i turned them @ 12/12 today... i felt this was early... i know it nut i can't do otherwise... i need them to be finished in the next 60 days or so... i just hope they produce a nice quality yield by the end.

Hm... well sheet. I have been hitting 30+ myself too lately... solution has been open the tent during lights on, close it when they go off... Once I get an a/c I won't have to do this anymore... but heat is definitely no good. Since getting my temps back into the 26-28 range my plants have greened up quite a bit more.

I have been given the recommendation of "more heat, more mag" but not sure about this. I would agree with les, no need for the CaMg with your tap's ppm... mine is much lower @ 30ppm consistently, so I add it, with no problems. You should be fine at +100, ultimately this extra CaMg is just to buffer the water so your added nutes don't make it plunge into low acid territory (to the best my knowledge), but in coco I've been told that it likes to suck up and hold onto calcium, so sometimes adding more in is necessary, but more for keeping the coco consistent, rather than feeding the plant.

Your stuff looks great. I would HIGHLY recommend getting your temperature in your control. Buy an a/c (or exhaust fan w/thermostat or whatever) and make sure its powerful enough to do the job before you start flowering. My temps were fine until summer hit on like week 3-4 of my first flowering. Caused so many issues made my head spin.

My instinct has told me to work on my environment before I try messing with nutrient balances and snake oil and additives and everything else. So I'm just going 1/2 strength of the feed chart for my nutes until I get my environment locked in at proper temp, VPD, airflow, etc.

It sounds like you have all your ducks lined up for the past few days, a few more and everything should be looking straight in the new growth territory. I don't have experience with your line of nutes but les may be onto something with the 3:2:1 ratio...

Give us two current pics, of the whole plant and a closer-up of the new growth... I bet you're just being too picky. I'm sure your plants are doing great based on the fixes you've made.

-Kweku

 

[BP75]

Hm... well sheet. I have been hitting 30+ myself too lately... solution has been open the tent during lights on, close it when they go off... Once I get an a/c I won't have to do this anymore... but heat is definitely no good. Since getting my temps back into the 26-28 range my plants have greened up quite a bit more.

I have been given the recommendation of "more heat, more mag" but not sure about this. I would agree with les, no need for the CaMg with your tap's ppm... mine is much lower @ 30ppm consistently, so I add it, with no problems. You should be fine at +100, ultimately this extra CaMg is just to buffer the water so your added nutes don't make it plunge into low acid territory (to the best my knowledge), but in coco I've been told that it likes to suck up and hold onto calcium, so sometimes adding more in is necessary, but more for keeping the coco consistent, rather than feeding the plant.

Your stuff looks great. I would HIGHLY recommend getting your temperature in your control. Buy an a/c (or exhaust fan w/thermostat or whatever) and make sure its powerful enough to do the job before you start flowering. My temps were fine until summer hit on like week 3-4 of my first flowering. Caused so many issues made my head spin.

My instinct has told me to work on my environment before I try messing with nutrient balances and snake oil and additives and everything else. So I'm just going 1/2 strength of the feed chart for my nutes until I get my environment locked in at proper temp, VPD, airflow, etc.

It sounds like you have all your ducks lined up for the past few days, a few more and everything should be looking straight in the new growth territory. I don't have experience with your line of nutes but les may be onto something with the 3:2:1 ratio...

Give us two current pics, of the whole plant and a closer-up of the new growth... I bet you're just being too picky. I'm sure your plants are doing great based on the fixes you've made.

-Kweku

Hello Kweku...
thank u for your response man...
i can't do anything for the heat now...my exctractor fan is working full load...330 mc/h and inline fan is also pushing 190mc/h of fresh air in a relatively small tent. 3'x3'x6'. there is an oscillating fan @ just above canopy level and i have to agree for 30-31C of max temp for some 4 hours per day(the hotter time of the day ) they stay under 30 for the next 8 hours.i see you on highly recommended and i'll try to find a solution anyway.
for now i'm not adding anymore cal-mag... i may add that if i see some clear sign of cal.mag defficiency. probably i'll follow another feeding schedule... the second one i posted in the precedent post.
i also think i was and am being a little obsessed and picky too... but my lack of experience is making me worry more than i should maybe. here are some fresh pics before i feed today...
first babie...


second babie


this is some necrosis on new growth but they seem a little healthier anyway. i still see some rust spots on new growth but less overall... i hope they get better from here.
thank u guys for helping.

 

[BP75]

this is another update...
i have not fed yet even though i saw some yellowing on new growth yesterday...gave them a little foliar feeding of the same nutes as the precedent feeding.
they were a little bit greener today
i wanted to feed them today but the buckets were not as light as i wanted so i postponed for tomorrow. they should be hungry tomorrow and happy with the feeding.
i'm planning on feeding them 10ml of micro-15ml of grow-5ml of bloom for 10l of tap water...this should be around 750ppm of total nutes of which 280ppm are from tap water.
i'll continue to ph @ 6.00 maybe 6.2 since the runoff is coming a little acidic @ 5.4 and has the trend of coming always lower with each of the last month feedings.
advices are wellcome...
there is a pic from today.

i'll post un update soon...

 

[Ras Mason]

go !

 

[BP75]

so, here we are @ 7 days of 12/12...plants are looking better, i sprayed as a preventative measure with an insecticide which contains Abamectine and another active ingredient that interacts and blocks the nervous system of the motherfuckers, its an all around insecticide and even if i'm not sure i had a bug problem i used it, in case i had one it has eventually helped controll it cause i have not seen any kind of infestation become a problem, anyway.... i plan to feed tomorrow, i'll continue to feed the same mix of 10ml micro 15 grow 5 bloom but @ a smaller rate like 80% of each, the GH schedule recommends it as somekind of transition feeding i believe... i may up this to full power after next day feeding. then i will probably flush before i start feeding full bloom nutes. the yellowing of the tops seems to get better, it may even be somekind of Nitrogen toxication ( this is what i read in a similar situation to mine) another reason not to go full on the aforementioned schedule, it may as well be a micro nutrient deficiency , so... i'll have to monitor them but i will not take rushed decisions. this is how they look today....
View attachment 320851
View attachment 320852
View attachment 320853
as always feel free to give advice and opinions... they are welcome.

 

[BP75]

so, here we are @ 7 days of 12/12...plants are looking better, i sprayed as a preventative measure with an insecticide which contains Abamectine and another active ingredient that interacts and blocks the nervous system of the motherfuckers, its an all around insecticide and even if i'm not sure i had a bug problem i used it, in case i had one it has eventually helped controll it cause i have not seen any kind of infestation become a problem, anyway.... i plan to feed tomorrow, i'll continue to feed the same mix of 10ml micro 15 grow 5 bloom but @ a smaller rate like 80% of each, the GH schedule recommends it as somekind of transition feeding i believe... i may up this to full power after next day feeding. then i will probably flush before i start feeding full bloom nutes. the yellowing of the tops seems to get better, it may even be somekind of Nitrogen toxication ( this is what i read in a similar situation to mine) another reason not to go full on the aforementioned schedule, it may as well be a micro nutrient deficiency , so... i'll have to monitor them but i will not take rushed decisions. this is how they look today....
View attachment 320851
View attachment 320852
View attachment 320853
as always feel free to give advice and opinions... they are welcome.

i can't see the attachments above so i'm posting some new fotos... after i fed today...



i fed the same mixture of nutes off 740ppm and ph-d @ 5.8 but got a runoff of 880ppm in one and 830ppm in the other one with ph runoff @ 5.5 for both. i suspect some salt is building up... i'll monitor the next feeding the runoff although i will flush anyway after the next one and will begin feeding full bloom nutes.
i took off all the lst-ing because my middle growth was surpassing my main branches, this way i hope to have them all @ the same height in a few days when i put my scrog on them( i know i should have them already under my scrog but don't forget i'm learning )
i hope i will have at least half the screen full... i really hope they strech some more....lets see.
girls continue to be a little pale @ new growth but overall they look better than ever...they already have pistils all over them...

 

[BP75]

i think i'm going to flush them tomorrow...
plants look better overall, not considerable damege on new growth.
leaves are straight as never before with only minor twisting to this point, makes me think maybe my feeding schedule or some sort of genetic trait was causing it.
flowers are forming and i want to start feeding them some full bloom nutes soon...i am insisting on flushing them now because i don't want them to have some salt build up in middle flower...
i attempted to install my scrog and this is what came out...
i think it is sitting a little low , definitely nearer the top of the bucket than what i was planning but this is part of the learning curve.



this is a side view...

i want to wait @ least a week before i start pruning and lollipoping the under growth, i really need them to strech some more...
i never though i would have the problem of short dense plants @ my first attempt @ growing.
what do you think does it make any sense on letting the scrog on or would you advise to let them bloom with only some lst-ing????

 

[BP75]

i would really like some input regarding my babies...
they are now in their 15 day of 12/12... from the last post they have stretched a little more as you all can see from the pics but they continue to show this yellowing and pale green colour on the top of budsites.... this is concentrated in the smaller branches as a fenomen... the bigger branches( the main one) show relatively green and healthy bud sites....i fed today a little calimagic( prevalently silica and magnesium ,iron and other minerals) anyone knows what it may be????
overall lookof canopy...
DSC_1382.JPG
plants and budsites detail... i know they look like normal in the fotos but they reallu re yellow compared to the main branches leaves and tops.
DSC_1383.JPG DSC_1384.JPG DSC_1385.JPG DSC_1386.JPG

now the underscreen growth... which is a concern for me because some of the biggest branches , even though they are stretching well over the screen have a part of them under the screen, now these parts,little mini branches, are budding and i feel sad chopping them... what do you suggest , i would have waited a week more or less and then chopped everything under the screen except these little bud sites which seem to flower nicely...i thought maybe someone which has experienced this kind if thing could HELP???
DSC_1388.JPG DSC_1389.JPG
the branches that are budding in the middle of the screen look like this ,
look where the finger is pointing to see the little side braches that are budding and which i feel sorry to trim or chop... Can they be left without compromising the grow?:
DSC_1386.JPG DSC_1386.JPG


The overall stretch can be seen in this pic. DSC_1390.JPG

 

[BP75]

i would really like some input regarding my babies...
they are now in their 15 day of 12/12... from the last post they have stretched a little more as you all can see from the pics but they continue to show this yellowing and pale green colour on the top of budsites.... this is concentrated in the smaller branches as a fenomen... the bigger branches( the main one) show relatively green and healthy bud sites....i fed today a little calimagic( prevalently silica and magnesium ,iron and other minerals) anyone knows what it may be????
overall lookof canopy...

plants and budsites detail... i know they look like normal in the fotos but they reallu re yellow compared to the main branches leaves and tops.




now the underscreen growth... which is a concern for me because some of the biggest branches , even though they are stretching well over the screen have a part of them under the screen, now these parts,little mini branches, are budding and i feel sad chopping them... what do you suggest , i would have waited a week more or less and then chopped everything under the screen except these little bud sites which seem to flower nicely...i thought maybe someone which has experienced this kind if thing could HELP???

the branches that are budding in the middle of the screen look like this ,
look where the finger is pointing to see the little side braches that are budding and which i feel sorry to trim or chop... Can they be left without compromising the grow?:



The overall stretch can be seen in this pic.

 

[maimunji]

If you don't like to hurt your plants don't prune I think it is too late to lollipop. I personally lolipoping in veg but some people's say it is safe until 2 week of flower, after 2-3 week of flowering if you prune, you will sacrifice your yield.

 

[BP75]

New Problems... what is this???

New Problems... what is this???

Hello You all guys...
i nedd some help asap please...
i have experienced a problem with the babies.... if anyone is willing to help is welcome...
i have been working literally 18h per day lately and i let them dry a little to much...
i recall i am growing in 3.5 gallon coco hempys but they went 5 days without water... i did not notice any signs of underwatering but two days ago i saw what looked like a nute burn to me...last feeding was 5 days ago and i fed them a 850ppm nutrient solution of GH Flora series of 10ml Micro+8ml Grow+13ml Bloom...it was the last transition feeding planned and today i wanted to feed full bloom nutes of 10ml M+5ml G+ 15ml Bloom but instead since i noticed this signs...look @ the borders of the leaves...
it looks like over ferilization to me... but i am no expert and it maybe something else....






i reduced today feeding @ 430 ppm like 50% strength....
now, i don't know what this maybe so.... i'm asking for some HELP...
maybe i should flush them again with some good ph-ed RO water to clean everything up and then start feed full bloom nutes but i don't know so i'm open to advise...
some overall foto of may canopy and my scrog attempt... which could have been better but since this is my first grow i'm just learning first hand what growing and scroging is in practice.




i did some defoliation but i think i'll need some more in the next days ... i just need them to be happy first before i stress them by chopping their leaves.
Last question is...
Is it normal for pistils to turn brown while the plant is in flower and the buds are forming?
i see that in some of my flowers ,pistils , are turning brown... like they were also burned... could this happen?
What cause this?


Thank u all.

 

[BP75]

c'mon guys...give some input in here, try to help a fellow in need...

c'mon guys...give some input in here, try to help a fellow in need...

i'm insisting on this topic because i just want to understand what may be causing this rusty patches along the borders of the leaves...
take the time to reply please...




overall they don't look that bad....
they just have this light yellow colour in some of the branches (especially the one on the left)
which is not that healthy green i see in the bigger branches
(mainly the plant on the right)



but i don't understand why pistils are turning brown in the flowers...
weren't they supposed to be white and growing until harvest time....
take a look .... maybe this is a sign of overferting??? maybe it is potassium def. ? maybe they just need more food?
since i've never fed more than 850ppm?what do you think????

 

[Kweku Ananse]

what your temp and rh? looks like maybe overfert/under watered depending on how hot/dry your enviro is... maybe?

 

[BP75]

what your temp and rh? looks like maybe overfert/under watered depending on how hot/dry your enviro is... maybe?

yes kweku... i believe it is a mix of overfeeding and underwater....
i made the mistake of letting them go for 5 days without water... i was not @ home and this was not calculated...i hope the catch up...
temps have rised again... they were in the 28C range three days before but i'm having them around 31C for the first 2-3 hours of light on then around 28-29 for the middle 6 hours and they rise again to 30-31C for the last 2-3 hours...
humidity has been around 35-50%...
i plan to feed them every two days now... and will flush them this weekend when they reach day 30 of 12/12.
then continue from there.
could it be that 850ppm nute solution is to much for them @ this stage.... i thought they could take more???
can these issues cause problems to the flowers... i htink it is not good if the white hairs/pistils burn now... it is too soon....
Thanks kweku.

 

[Kweku Ananse]

its the strain, dont like the heat... my first grow i had some kush that was red the whole time, and some sativas that were white even after i harvested... 850ppm maybe clser to like week 5, peak at week seven, compost teas for any flush, with maybe a 500ppm nute solution.

microbes are your friend!

try to get them temps down and your pistils will stay moist/white... they are being sucked dry by the heat and low rh%

as far as the ppm of nutes, i usually give them less and less until they show a little yellow, then up about 250 from there. youre like 20 days in, 750ppm should be more than enough now that the stretch is over... so after your flush try giving them 500ppm, then on [thursday] whatever your "every two days" is, hit them with 600ppm, then [saturday] 700ppm and then [monday] 750. then onto week four try slowly bumping up to 850 by the end of the week, then next week up to maybe 1000, week six up to maybe 1250, week seven back down to 1100, week eight 750/flush week 9 flush only (use compost teas if you plan on reusuing soil/substrate - this helps keep the microbes alive)...

all of this would be strain/environment dependent, but for rule of thumb think of it like this...

if temps are hi and dry, the plant sweats more and sucks more from the roots. if this is the case, you have to do lower ppm, for example 500ppm 3x per day = 1500ppm (this isnt scientific values, just trying to make a point the numbers i offer here should only be taken as relative to the other numbers in THIS POST ONLY... i am NOT telling you to feed 1500ppm...)

if your temps are okay and proper rh, the plant sweats less and consequently sucks less from the roots. this might then lead to a deficiency, cause the stuff you put in the roots is just sitting there, the plant doesnt need water, so it wont take it up. in this case you have to do higher ppm for example 750ppm 2x per day = 1500ppm

the plant absorbs the same ppm over all. now lets look at your scenario

you're feeding a "normal" 750ppm in a "3x per day" kind of 'hot and dry' environment, which is over potentiating your nutes = 2250ppm... then you think "oh shit! im burning them! better not feed as much..." but then you arent compensating with water, you just "dont feed" which worsens the problem, and it "never" seems to get better.

Your plants are underwatered for their environment. If i were you, i'd start with giving feed every other, and give only water on the "other" days. the 850ppm might be just fine if they had more water to take it up with...

final analogy:

would you rather eat a box of saltines with gallon of water, or with a shot glass of water...?

^think about it^

 

[Kweku Ananse]

this whole thread started seeming familiar and i just realized i was on this one earlier... it seems you are doing what i did on my first grow, at first too much water, then not enough... you'll over compensate/overcorrect a few times til you get it balanced. i went from no roots to not enough fertilizer in a week. the plant grows like hell in its sweet spot, you just have to keep up with it.

the one thing that remains from my original post... too hot.

a couple weeks ago you said something along the lines of "theres nothing i can do about the heat right now"

im thinking sell your car and buy an a/c... im sure youre starting to see what i eventually saw when i started...

compensate here, make up there, none of it really clicks until you get that heat down. that should be your top priority. especially before week four/five hits... my buds, though they are strong, were quite loose, airy, fluffy some people call it. point is its good smoke (not the best tasting either... too hot for terpenes to really quantify when they are just constantly vaporizing...) but there is no weight...

cool it down, and im sure your current problems will go away. The plant isnt in bad shape either... and the flowers will continue to sprout new white hairs despite the old orange crisps... but once you cool it down and your rh can hit at least 50%, youll be golden methinks...

my 2¢
-ananse