Help! Are these a variety of broadmites or cyclamen mites?

[Captainjay]

It’s been a battle for sure. Even moved and downsized. I’ve read all the posts on them across multiple platforms. Just need to be sure what I’m looking at. Have all the signs of broadmites. Twisting leaves, stunted growth. I use a lot of different things but suffoilx has been working well. I want to get away from chemicals and I just ordered swirskii. Plan on ordering twice a month, plus colonize my own.
Under my Amazon digital scope, they look like clover mites but smaller. Maybe this is a variety of the cyclamen mite? If anyone has seen similar or have any permanent solutions besides burning everything and taking a dirt nap ,

I’m open ears. Definitely appreciate all of you on these platforms. Been a huge help the last 20 years.
Also these mites are on my neighbors properties as well. I’ve completed gotten rid of any plants on my property. I have used the atomizer over the fence line but there’s too much going on.

 

[Creeperpark]

Sorry to see you are having problems with mites friend. Once you have mites thriving in your garden it can be hard to get of them. The best thing one can do at that point is to shut down for a couple of weeks to starve the adults. Then when restarting use a cold pressed neem oil mix with a drop of dish shop with warm water to spray all the new plants. Use the spray every 3 days to kill all the newly hatched eggs. Keep the temps below 80 degrees and spray until all the adults are gone. By the time your plants start to flower the mites should be gone.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

It’s been a battle for sure. Even moved and downsized. I’ve read all the posts on them across multiple platforms. Just need to be sure what I’m looking at. Have all the signs of broadmites. Twisting leaves, stunted growth. I use a lot of different things but suffoilx has been working well. I want to get away from chemicals and I just ordered swirskii. Plan on ordering twice a month, plus colonize my own.
Under my Amazon digital scope, they look like clover mites but smaller. Maybe this is a variety of the cyclamen mite? If anyone has seen similar or have any permanent solutions besides burning everything and taking a dirt nap , View attachment 18953988 View attachment 18953990 View attachment 18953992 View attachment 18953995 View attachment 18953996 View attachment 18953997 View attachment 18953999 View attachment 18954001 View attachment 18954004 View attachment 18954002 I’m open ears. Definitely appreciate all of you on these platforms. Been a huge help the last 20 years.
Also these mites are on my neighbors properties as well. I’ve completed gotten rid of any plants on my property. I have used the atomizer over the fence line but there’s too much going on.

Onion Bug Spray - Natural Pest Repellent


Spray the plant, 5 seconds per node, inside and outside the plant. To spray the inside you can even hold the plant upside down, so the stream and insects flow down and away from the plant, working with gravity. Once a day for at least 3 days in a row, then once a week, then once every 2 weeks or as required.

Onions are high in sulphur, however they also have something that attacks arachnids likes spidermites.

Try a low dose first, just to see that the plants don't react badly to it.

Also, if you're new to spraying, you should practice absolute hygiene. I always store my spray bottles with water with chloride in it, and make sure you spray the chlorene water a couple of times to clear the nozzle of any stale water. When you use the sprayer, make sure you rinse out all the chlorene water, and clear the nozzle by spraying clean water through both the spray and the clear stream.

Anything that has gone bad that's in the bottle will kill your plants. The chlorene water will kill the plants. So take extra care to use clean sprayers.

 

[moses wellfleet]

Predatory mites… Swirski mites (might) be effective… your local rep will know best?

 

[ojd]

Predator mites( Swirki mites sachets from koppert.com) used in conjunction with a weekly or 2 Foliar spray of OG Biowar foliar pack ( beneficial microbes) really helped me get over the broadmite issue a decade ago.

Predator mites coupled with OG Bio war saved alot of time/money as with the beneficial microbes the predators would lay egg's constantly producing an insane army of predators vs the broadmite/russet mites and eventually wiping them out completely in 1 crop

 

[Captainjay]

Thank you! I used og bio war last year ,the plants loved it. I’ve read since, that it should be applied 4 nights in a row with high humidity. I was spraying it every 3 days and it didn’t solve my problem then. I wasn’t using predatory mites then either. I’ve tried sulfur, heat treatments, bio pesticides and eventually moved into the chemical warfare after losing most of my moms to these bastards. Dips on rooted cuts seem to be the best so far in keeping them at bay, but does not eliminate them. Mixing suffoilx and avid on clones has been the best treatment so far. Kontos is a life saver in veg too. Akari kicks their ass as well but only for a week or so. I’m so sick of the chemicals. They are only bandages. Losing all the genetics is a sad thought, but probably the only real way to get rid of them for good. I was scoping last night and dosed a couple leaves with 91% alcohol and I noticed the little red dots coming to the surface of the Leaf and stem nodes. I read in another post about a guy who had a professional out and he instructed him to Foliar with 1 pint 70% to a gallon ,30 minutes before AzaMax foliar. I’m guessing it makes them come out of the plant tissue to provide a better kill ratio. Probably helps destroy some eggs too. Was debating on getting a bedbug heater and heat a few times a week for a bit. I already ordered swirskii though, I’m going to reorder as soon as they arrive and keep adding swirskii over the next few months. Saw a cool YouTube of a lady that shows you how to colonize them in Petri dish with pollen. I know swirskii won’t eliminate them completely but saving what genetics I still have would be nice. I’d be fine with having them in the garden if swirskii kept them in check. I’m done with the chemicals though. Had a headache working in the room the other day and I know exactly what it’s from. Not good . If in a few months, if I’m losing the battle, I’ll be bankrupt and will just stop all together. These things are so terrible. guess it’s all a learning experience though. From my reading, I’m thinking these might be a boxermite or a rust mite. Wish I knew a entomologist or could afford a dynolite.

 

[Rgd]

use something serious... take clones and move on..


do you want get rid them or not..?

 

[Boo]

the only way I know of that works is avid spray and pylon fogger...don't go near flowering plants with these chemicals or you'll glow in the dark...in veg that can't be beat...this stuff is your last resort early in veg...

 

[ojd]

Thank you! I used og bio war last year ,the plants loved it. I’ve read since, that it should be applied 4 nights in a row with high humidity. I was spraying it every 3 days and it didn’t solve my problem then. I wasn’t using predatory mites then either. I’ve tried sulfur, heat treatments, bio pesticides and eventually moved into the chemical warfare after losing most of my moms to these bastards. Dips on rooted cuts seem to be the best so far in keeping them at bay, but does not eliminate them. Mixing suffoilx and avid on clones has been the best treatment so far. Kontos is a life saver in veg too. Akari kicks their ass as well but only for a week or so. I’m so sick of the chemicals. They are only bandages. Losing all the genetics is a sad thought, but probably the only real way to get rid of them for good. I was scoping last night and dosed a couple leaves with 91% alcohol and I noticed the little red dots coming to the surface of the Leaf and stem nodes. I read in another post about a guy who had a professional out and he instructed him to Foliar with 1 pint 70% to a gallon ,30 minutes before AzaMax foliar. I’m guessing it makes them come out of the plant tissue to provide a better kill ratio. Probably helps destroy some eggs too. Was debating on getting a bedbug heater and heat a few times a week for a bit. I already ordered swirskii though, I’m going to reorder as soon as they arrive and keep adding swirskii over the next few months. Saw a cool YouTube of a lady that shows you how to colonize them in Petri dish with pollen. I know swirskii won’t eliminate them completely but saving what genetics I still have would be nice. I’d be fine with having them in the garden if swirskii kept them in check. I’m done with the chemicals though. Had a headache working in the room the other day and I know exactly what it’s from. Not good . If in a few months, if I’m losing the battle, I’ll be bankrupt and will just stop all together. These things are so terrible. guess it’s all a learning experience though. From my reading, I’m thinking these might be a boxermite or a rust mite. Wish I knew a entomologist or could afford a dynolite.

Its not the Biowar that kills them , the Biowar just keeps the Swirksi population in huge numbers that surpass broadmite numbers and keeps a nice environment for predators ( with spray every 3-4 days).

Also it has to be the predator sachets not the bottle of predators , the bottle you just pour over the crop and they dont reproduce like sachets , with sachets half population are still in sachets and exit every week , when sprayed and I used to say to my mates its like milk to them the Biowar and after a week or 2 predators have started to reproduce in crazy numbers.
The sachets you hang on the plants and just before lights off in veg or flower soak the whole garden and next day instead of 5-10 predators walking around on the sachets you will have 100's on each sachets ( even more) looking like a bee hive all over each other like crazy.
Your ratio number will start to surpass the broadmite/russet number and all eggs will be eaten preventing the usual broadmite takeover like normal.

Koppert.com ( select country, have places worldwide from USA , UK and everywhere else)
They are sold in 100 or 500 sachets ( cheap to)

 

[Captainjay]

Just an update. I’ve added 3 orders of swirski now. Two were canisters and one was hanging packets. I just did another order with some H.miles. I haven’t used anything else in a couple months now. I’m still seeing them but the plants respond well to the swirskii. Fist time they all didn’t start to die during flip. Only one started to but I pulled it out away from the light and emptied a few packets on her. Looking much better now. Thinking about tying some paper cups to each one and add the adults to them. The packets don’t have much activity but opening them up, I see they are in the works. Dont think I’ll order the packets again. Also all my outdoor plants are looking much better too. The mite food attracts lots of fungus gnats though. Flies seem to smell it a mile away.

 

[moses wellfleet]

You need the sachets, it gives you several generations of Swirskis. It will be very expensive to keep on emptying bottles of adults onto your crop.

 

[moses wellfleet]

Wait you say there you are emptying sachets onto the plants, that is not how the system works, the sachets are hung at regular intervals throughout the crop, the idea is the Swirkii eggs hatch and adults emerge from the sachets providing constant protection. If you are pouring the bran carrier on the crop of course you will get fungus gnats. The sachets must be kept away from moisture while hanging.

 

[Captainjay]

use something serious... take clones and move on..


do you want get rid them or not..?

I’ve used all the serious chems . I started having phantom deficiencies and leaf twisting for months back in 2020. I remember one Larry had a weird leaf then it spread to everything. I tried everything, starting out with organic and eventually learning nothing but the hard core chems work. I’m so sick of them I would put all my chips on that there’s still something in the plants after a couple months. If I could afford to start fresh I would but I have , like many of us , irreplaceable genetics .

You need the sachets, it gives you several generations of Swirskis. It will be very expensive to keep on emptying bottles of adults onto your crop.

have you ever built colonies of your own? I’ve been using the packets, but adding the adults really helps the plants out. I figured I’d be adding both for awhile. I’m setting up a few containers to breed them. Plan was to put a layer of cotton , then a plastic sheet and more cotton. I’ll spray the good bug food on the top layer and poke a few holes at the top lid to let any out. I’ll keep these near my bluemats for more humidity. Originally, I was thinking paper cups attached to the stem and just keep filling up with new batches. Kinda like this paper baskets you can buy.

 

[Captainjay]

Wait you say there you are emptying sachets onto the plants, that is not how the system works, the sachets are hung at regular intervals throughout the crop, the idea is the Swirkii eggs hatch and adults emerge from the sachets providing constant protection. If you are pouring the bran carrier on the crop of course you will get fungus gnats. The sachets must be kept away from moisture while hanging.

I have multiple packets on everything but the order came with so many, Like 200 . So since I’ve run out of adults to add, I’ve been dumping the contents on areas of damage. I’ve also been removing any twisted leaf I see. There are these tiny little red specks that are in the hairs of the plant. I can scrape them off under the scope but can’t see exactly what they are. They almost look like an outline of a miniature flea. I never see them move . Wish I could zoom in and see if these are what I’m battling. Or see if it’s their waste.

 

[ojd]

Wait you say there you are emptying sachets onto the plants, that is not how the system works, the sachets are hung at regular intervals throughout the crop, the idea is the Swirkii eggs hatch and adults emerge from the sachets providing constant protection. If you are pouring the bran carrier on the crop of course you will get fungus gnats. The sachets must be kept away from moisture while hanging.

Moses is correct , you shouldn't be tearing open the sachets but just hang on the plants or your wasting your money and might as well buy the bottles ( stick with sachets , much better).

But get some beneficial microbes ( I suggest OG BIOWAR foliar pack) and spray on leaves and sachets once/twice a week and you won't need to buy any more sachets as the beneficial microbes help the predators reproduce 10x and you will have 100's of predators on each sachet every day

 

[Rgd]

I’ve used all the serious chems .

imho .if avid won’t work its not bugs

 

[Gman 420]

Moses is correct , you shouldn't be tearing open the sachets but just hand on the plants or your wasting your money and might as well buy the bottles ( stick with sachets , much better).

But get some beneficial microbes ( I suggest OG BIOWAR foliar pack) and spray on leaves and sachets once/twice a week and you won't need to buy any more sachets as the beneficial microbes help the predators reproduce 10x and you will have 100's of predators on each sachet every day

Do you know anywhere to get the og biowar foliar pack in the uk mate?

 

[gemini918]

The only way to get rid of them is to reduce everything down to clones and do whole clone dips of avid and forbid periodically.

Using predator mites is a waste of time, any plant with loads of foilage will have broads lurking and ready to attack again.