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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
I agree with Weezard & Str8edge--I would avoid Imid (besides, not tooo sure if Imid will actually kill the gnats).

If it were me, 30 days in flower and gnats are everywhere--here is what I would:
1. Top dress each container 15ml of Mosquito Bits (7.5ml if container is less than 1 gallon size) and mix up the top 1/2" of soil (this will piss of the gnats) spreading out the bits evenly.
2. Water to activate the BTi in Mosquito Bits...and spray the soil surface with my Soil Pest Spray. But be careful of the overspray, as it will turn it white.
3. Place a yellow sticky card on each container--to identify the few fussy pussy plants that are your "gnat production farms". These I would treat with bigger guns--or cull.

Soil Pest Spray
1. Half-fill a 32ox Canning Jar with water.
2. Add 7.5ml Riptide (or appropriate amount of pyrethrin based insecticide).
3. Add 7.5ml Neem Oil.
4. Add 60ml Fossil Shell Flour (or powdered Diatomaceous Earth).
5. Seal with lid and shake for 30 seconds (think martini)
6. Fill Canning Jar with water (for 32 oz), seal and shake again.
7. Immediately pour into a spray bottle...funnel makes the job easier. I like the chemical quality spray bottles at Home Depot--they don't clog at all and less than $5 for 32 oz bottle.
8. Keep the solution suspended by shaking the bottle constantly.

The rationale behind the routine (with more than four modes of action):
1. The bacillus thuringiensis israelensis in the Mosquito Bits is most effective against Gnats with they are in young first instar larvae stage.
2. Pyrethrin in Riptide is a contact killer and will kill the more mature gnats--but not the larvae.
3. Neem Oil is also a contact killer but has a different mode of action than pyrethrins--and can kill the larvae.
4. Diatoms are a great slicers and dicers for crawling critters and they also are great absorbers (110%)--as they will hold some of pyrethrin and neem oil and release it later as the diatoms dry out and return to their powder like form.
5. Safe for plants in flower (just watch your overspray).

Good luck!
 

Hmong

Well-known member
Veteran
@ eclipse: thx for sharing this amazing recipie.I use neem, pyrethrine and DE too, but would have never thought on using all 3 together as a supension. Its genial
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Thanks guys, sometimes you gotta smoke a fatty, and then think like fungus gnat....and ask yourself, "what would I hate?"...lol, a four way punch? You can also use that orange oil (pricey) with DE too.

BTW, this concoction is my go to ant spray around the house. It washes away with water and no poisons for my doggies!

Like I said, just be careful of the overspray, think "christmas morning snow"....

Cheers guys!
 

sahdgrower

Member
hot water

hot water

I'm beginning to think my best long term route would be to invest in a soil steamer to fry any critters and inoculate with bennies and nematodes. The sight of yellow leaves after spending a fortune on the best organic nitroen drives me crazy.

Canna, I mentioned earlier in this thread but by now it is probably quite buried, I used hot water dunks to seriously knock back my RA problem. I was growing in RDWC so I could dunk the entire root zone but I believe hot water could be used effectively in soil as well. It is important that the water not exceed 120F. I haven't fully tested this method out but from what I did do, I succesfully killed many RA but didn't eradicate and I was unable to determine any harm done to the plants from the treatment. I did a thread about it called operation RAD. It is not thorough enough to be more than anecdotal but worthy of consideration none the less.
 

NickNasty

New member
Just wanted to say me and 3 other gardens used eclipsefour20's riptide/orthene recipe and it worked like a charm. It's been a month and still no sign of root aphids.
 

JCave

New member
I saw gnats in my rockwool, also sometimes seeing some flying ones near the plants also.

What I did to get rid of my problem completely is this:

- Put fly paper to catch the flying gnats
- Cut potato slices (thin but not as thing as potato chips) and leave them ontop of the rockwool or wherever you see the gnat larve.

What happens is that the gnat larvae goes into the potatoes and starts to eat it, you will see the gnats in the potatoes slices.

Then throw out the potatoes slices and get new ones, do this over and over till the gnats and larvae are gone.
 
Kontos has provided excellent control. Takes a week or so to fully effect them.. Now that I'm in flower I'm sticking to og biowar and 100 million fetilae nematodes I got for free courtesy of buglogical. Definitely will be ordering more if I. Can prove the todes make a difference.
 

xxxstr8edgexxx

Active member
Veteran
I saw gnats in my rockwool, also sometimes seeing some flying ones near the plants also.

What I did to get rid of my problem completely is this:

- Put fly paper to catch the flying gnats
- Cut potato slices (thin but not as thing as potato chips) and leave them ontop of the rockwool or wherever you see the gnat larve.

What happens is that the gnat larvae goes into the potatoes and starts to eat it, you will see the gnats in the potatoes slices.

Then throw out the potatoes slices and get new ones, do this over and over till the gnats and larvae are gone.
you should check out the fungus gnat thread this is the root aphid thread. fungus gnats are annoying but dont require erradication imo. root aphid will bleed you dry.
 

Storm Shadow

Well-known member
Veteran
Kontos has provided excellent control. Takes a week or so to fully effect them.. Now that I'm in flower I'm sticking to og biowar and 100 million fetilae nematodes I got for free courtesy of buglogical. Definitely will be ordering more if I. Can prove the todes make a difference.



Kontos is slow at first...but once it gets going....its insane :)
 

Knuckleheads.sd

New member
I want to know more about this Kontos?

What do you mean it is slow at first?
How many times do you spray?
How long do you think it stays effective in the plant against the RA?

Is there a way to treat to the new soil besides heat? How about sealing in a tuberware with a gallon of the riptide and orthene for a month? Maybe a little heat to help hatch any eggs?
 
I'd say its effective for about 30 days or so however you want to allow at least 70 days between harvest and last application. I am still unsure on whether its meant to be sprayed on foliage and ensure death to root critters or if root drench is required. I'd love for Stormshadow to chime in on this.

Using imid along with kontos early on should give you great relief. Orthene too but I'd reccomend testing on some plants first, I'm about to do this because I hear its quite phytotoxic.

Still seeing flyers on my traps, been burnin sulfur early flower to make life miserable for em.
 

KONY

Active member
Veteran
How big are the baby crawlers ontop of pots? I dont know if we have RA, but i've noticed very tiny clearish crawlers ontop of our homer buckets today in a room of flowering
plants that is at 28 days, they were barely visible with the naked eye, even inches away. Just looked like a spec of dust barely moving, or a piece of hair dander or something.

We have had lowers die off our plants during flower for the last year, appears like magnesium or ph issue, however yields are unaffected...average .7 gpw, ~80% of the total foliage is still their at harvest.

If not some sort of aphid or thrip nymph (I have noticed some thrip damage in other flower room thats at 10 weeks), hopefully they are some sort of Hypoaspis...
No FG in months.
As a result of strict perpetual use of mosquito bits and homemade sticky traps with plastic cup pieces, bamboo skewers and tangletrap.

edit: should add I have misplaced my 8x20 monocular.... it works amazing in reverse as a ~35x scope; WAY better than the 60x cannascopes they sell. So I cant really see what the hells these creatures look like.
 
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Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Kony,
Do they have 6 or 8 legs? If there are 8, its not an RA. Also, if your plants are showing no damage, it wouldn't be RA's. I'm gonna dig out my binoculars, and see if I can see. Thanks for the top. Good luck. -granger
 

KONY

Active member
Veteran
@KONY

Tiny/near-microscopic white/clearish dots that run around like speedracer sounds like RA to me

They run around like snails, very slowly... can barely see them moving at all unless you let your eyes focus on nothing up close for a bit.

Kony,
Do they have 6 or 8 legs? If there are 8, its not an RA. Also, if your plants are showing no damage, it wouldn't be RA's. I'm gonna dig out my binoculars, and see if I can see. Thanks for the top. Good luck. -granger

I found my magnifying glass and monocular last night, will try to see how many legs they have. They are so small that without some sort of magnification, it will be impossible to see how many legs they have. I thought I had read in the first few pages of this thread some people have RA and they are not nearly as bad to the plant health as others.

I'm hoping they are these: http://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/beneficial-insects/fungus-gnat-predator/
However that seems unlikely as we didnt buy them and just use promix, roots organics ewc and perlite and lime in our medium.
 
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KONY

Active member
Veteran
I think the whitish powder is from nute water evaporating, but not positive on that (these pieces of plastic cup are flipped horizontal ontop of the soil each watering, ensuring i mark the correct plants on the calendar that were watered/fed), with the whitish blue LED flashlight, it stands out alot more than without the flashlight.


They are too small to identify how many legs they have, with the monocular inverted, they appear to be almost clearish or wet, with hairs on their bodies and a sucker for a mouth. I measured or tried to measure them, and they are no bigger than 1/2mm, maybe 1/4.


W9nMfoT.jpg
 

ceosam

Member
So I made it to harvest and I want to ensure these RA's are gone for good. I chopped every plant I had and put my cuttings in the freezer. I have a relatively sealed room and am installing a CO2 burner for next run. I have already tossed all pots/soil/bamboo, to sterile the room I want to gas it with CO2 to make sure they aren't hiding anywhere. Has anyone used CO2 to clear a room? What is the most effective way to do it?

@KONY - those look kinda similar but they are a bit larger/rounder than the ones I had. The fact that they are so slow makes it seem unlikely (for my limited research/experience). If you had an infestation, youre cuttings in solo cups would suffer visibly rather quickly IMO. For example, the outbreak I had I noticed them on my clone tray. Within a few days they had killed 50% of some decently rooted clones.
 

xxxstr8edgexxx

Active member
Veteran
everything sounds good except the freezing of cuttings.they are toast. cannabis cannot withstand a hard frost much less the -4 degree temperatures of a modern home freezer.i hope you backed up those genetics elsewhere also.
So I made it to harvest and I want to ensure these RA's are gone for good. I chopped every plant I had and put my cuttings in the freezer. I have a relatively sealed room and am installing a CO2 burner for next run. I have already tossed all pots/soil/bamboo, to sterile the room I want to gas it with CO2 to make sure they aren't hiding anywhere. Has anyone used CO2 to clear a room? What is the most effective way to do it?
 

ceosam

Member
no idea why i said freezer, they are in a ziplock bag in my veggie drawer of a fridge X_X

absolutely paranoid about these fuckers... killed my yield by 50%. i had many flyers when i flipped so i guess i didnt do so bad
 
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