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Forever After Soil Mix for Ultimate Quality

Karma Xul

Member
Hello all. I am a fertilizer free grower though I also do not use any additives besides Worm Castings, Alaskan humus, cheap peat for 4 dollars a bail as it does not have trichoderma which most everything does now unfortunately, and regular natural unfertilized clay soil. I feed my plants only water. My outdoor is on year three.

The mix which I have yet to see higher quality from is
50% Worm castings (high quality compost can be used in place)
25% Clay soil
25% Cheap peat
Atleast a handfull of Alaskan humus.

I feed only water and never anything else.

A couple tricks. Keep it wet. It is not the same as using ions to feed the plant where due to limited diversity the interior of the pot needs to dry out. Keep the top a nice wet color. If it drys you could experience some yellowing.

No soil is nutrient deficient only deficient of life.

If you want to recharge your soil between uses you can simply keep a worm bin and mix it in with your trim for your worms to process though if it is kept at the proper humidity it will last and last. Your plants will adjust the fungal to bacterial dominance and like a fine wine will become tuned in by the cannabis plant to its liking, over time.

Is 50% castings overkill? Maybe though would you like room for error or do you want to run it as a science lab weighting your soil for proper moisture and watering every couple hours to keep proper humidity?

Most powdered mycorrihizae has trichoderma added which is a parasitic fungi. One issue with this, that your fertilizer companies likely know about, is that it is activated in high humic acid levels which castings and or compost have, setting growers up for failure as the healthiest of soils have natural high levels of quality humic acid not the old coal derived form sold in the grow shops. Most bails of 25 dollar grow mix peat now has trichoderma too unfortunately. I think one of sunshine mix products my not though Ill take the 4 dollar bail. It is a bit harder to wet though not when mixed and only if it drys as the microbes can produce a hydrophobic layer to protect themselves from drought.

Some of my flavors last up to an hour after smoking with extreme intensity.

Works great indoors too. I prefer fabric pots myself though they are not necessary. I prefer white fabric pots as well
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
Not quite sure what is setting the growers up for failure? Your point is the trichoderma and mycorrhizae are antagonistic?
 

Illuminate

Keyboard Warrior
Veteran
Sounds good. My mate pulled a 5 zip per plant in 20litres of staight out the bag compost from home depot..i been mixing soil for years and got shown up by that shit so to each they own.
 

Karma Xul

Member
Not quite sure what is setting the growers up for failure? Your point is the trichoderma and mycorrhizae are antagonistic?

Yes. The fertilizer business is out for money. I had a product we advertised in high times back in the first annual organic issue back in 05 or 06. It was made at the largest manufacturer of organic nutes in the US. Long story short they want profits over quality. Further more the chemical companies who have been keeping cannabis illegal for many years are coming in hard to the industry and I have concerns for their intentions.


Sounds good. My mate pulled a 5 zip per plant in 20litres of staight out the bag compost from home depot..i been mixing soil for years and got shown up by that shit so to each they own.

I grew for many years, many thousands of plants before I tasted the potential of unhindered microbes. Personally, I will never go back. Not only that it benefits the ecosystem and the genetics of the plants. The cannabis plant is hundreds of thousands of years old if not more. It did not evolve with fertilizers and I fear it will de-evolve should it continue to be grown with them. Did you know phosphorus levels in any healthy forest soil are .001ppm? It was originally a military surplus issued out right before the dust bowl. The thing is it creates things known as dead zones. Further more it destroys microbes. The foundation of our health is from the human microbiome. One thing other then killing microbes in the soil is it inhibits our supply of microbes in our microbiome which we get via our food. It gets worse though Ill keep this based on growing unless there is interest. Phosphorus adds weight though it is so harsh and kills quality. Cannabis is the fastest growing business in the US and I hope soon the world. If it can set an example for farming I think this world will be so much better off and perhaps counter the intentions of the ones currently running it for the people who stay on top by creating stress for everyone and everything else.
 

Karma Xul

Member
So it begins. Atrium rebuild, still needs cleaning. Sulfur burner going and pirate bugs enroute. Long story though here to focus on progress and show what soil mix can do
 

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Illuminate

Keyboard Warrior
Veteran
On with the show thanks for sharing. Normally i hold back on the p based on the taste aspect. Will be following your thread intently.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
And we circle back again.

Karma; Good going. You may be interested in reading some of the older threads addressing what you have outlined, especially the mycorrhizal mixes.

I do not see a material for drainage in your mix. I have used a similar mix but with pea gravel included.

Where do you find a bail (3.8 cu. ft.) of quality sphagnum peat moss for $4. The cheapest I've found is $9.

FYI: Alaska humus is the same thing as peat moss, just not dried.
 

Karma Xul

Member
And we circle back again.

Karma; Good going. You may be interested in reading some of the older threads addressing what you have outlined, especially the mycorrhizal mixes.

I do not see a material for drainage in your mix. I have used a similar mix but with pea gravel included.

Where do you find a bail (3.8 cu. ft.) of quality sphagnum peat moss for $4. The cheapest I've found is $9.

FYI: Alaska humus is the same thing as peat moss, just not dried.

I dont like drainage. The diversity of the castings limits anaerobic bacteria especially as I do not feed it carbs of any kind which can superfeed bacteria limiting oxygen. Castings are so diverse they prefer it wet. I dont even let my tops get light in color. When or if I slip up I can see some yellowing with smaller pots. As for peat moss I guess its regional. As for Alaskan humus I get it for the thickest hyphae mycorrhizae known and for the fact it is not polluted with trichoderma which is activated with humic acid which is naturally high in castings and alaskan humus. The stuff I get contains no peat and when its dry does not resemble peat at all.

In another week I think we will be clear of single digit (F) nights so Ill take down the plastic for more lumens. At the 45th line we still have a slight angle for the sun. Still a lot of work to do to get things where they should be. Stay tuned
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I dont like drainage. The diversity of the castings limits anaerobic bacteria especially as I do not feed it carbs of any kind which can superfeed bacteria limiting oxygen. Castings are so diverse they prefer it wet. I dont even let my tops get light in color. When or if I slip up I can see some yellowing with smaller pots. As for peat moss I guess its regional. As for Alaskan humus I get it for the thickest hyphae mycorrhizae known and for the fact it is not polluted with trichoderma which is activated with humic acid which is naturally high in castings and alaskan humus. The stuff I get contains no peat and when its dry does not resemble peat at all.

In another week I think we will be clear of single digit (F) nights so Ill take down the plastic for more lumens. At the 45th line we still have a slight angle for the sun. Still a lot of work to do to get things where they should be. Stay tuned

I dont like drainage.

I do get your point with this. I use less drainage material than others but I do use materials like pea gravel and composted woody debris (& biochar) which do provide nutrients over time in a no till soil.


The diversity of the castings limits anaerobic bacteria especially as I do not feed it carbs of any kind which can superfeed bacteria limiting oxygen.

I don't quite follow what you mean here but compacted castings would contribute more to anaerobic, rather than aerobic conditions. Of course there are more than just bacteria at work in a living soil.

I'm not knocking how you do things. It sounds better than most and you have satisfaction with your routine. I don't think you mentioned whether you remix your soil between harvests or whether you are growing no till in true living soil fashion.

As for peat moss I guess its regional.

I have come across local peat moss previously, although not bailed. So it is not Canadian Sphagnum peat moss?

As for Alaskan humus I get it for the thickest hyphae mycorrhizae known and for the fact it is not polluted with trichoderma which is activated with humic acid which is naturally high in castings and alaskan humus. The stuff I get contains no peat and when its dry does not resemble peat at all.

What do you mean by 'thickest hyphae mycorrhizae'? If anything there may be some endomycorrhizal fungi spores in it, just as there could be in peat moss, which could infect your roots. To my knowledge it has nothing to do with thickness of hyphae.

Unless you are getting an Alaska humus product which is not on the market, then there is a 95% chance (I'm being moderate) it contains Sphagnum peat. The only way you could tell this is by looking at it under magnification to see the Sphagnum leaves.

For general appearance, mined Sphagnum peat moss varies according to the depth mined from and drying process applied.

Here you may see some research done illustrating that Alaska 'humus' products are essentially the same as Sphagnum peat moss products.
http://www.microbeorganics.com/#Canadian_Sphagnum_Peat

Here is a photo of a Sphagnum leaf magnified 100 times and zoomed in on at unknown magnification;

picture.php


You don't need to know all this to continue happily growing the way you do:)

I had one more question. Do you harvest your clay soil outdoors? If you've already answered, apologies.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
If it can set an example for farming I think this world will be so much better off and perhaps counter the intentions of the ones currently running it for the people who stay on top by creating stress for everyone and everything else.

Good luck with that. I tried by growing commercially (medicinal) in similar fashion (natural living soil) from 96 to 2006 and then came on here preaching the gospel in 2008 but very few understood.

Most growers want something they can test and believe is super better than what they did before. The elusive magic bullet.
 

Karma Xul

Member
I'm going to reply as soon as I get in. Sorry about the mess. Some one tried taking me out when I was out of the country. As soon as the pirate bugs get here things should be back to normal...
 
Ive followed your youtube channel for a longtime microbeman! I hope your doing ok after losing dory! Have a good day guys. Decent reading.
 

Karma Xul

Member
I do get your point with this. I use less drainage material than others but I do use materials like pea gravel and composted woody debris (& biochar) which do provide nutrients over time in a no till soil.

Biochar is the biproduct of syngas generation which is great to run off grid generators from though the residual biproduct, biochar contains some toxins from my readings. The surface area is also prime for anaerobic microbes to fester under biofilm I also hear from Elaine Ingham who has gone to fair and tested the many samples.

I don't quite follow what you mean here but compacted castings would contribute more to anaerobic, rather than aerobic conditions. Of course there are more than just bacteria at work in a living soil.

The soil I am using now is reused. I had no new castings though I top dressed it this morning before the pirate bugs get here. I have 5000 worms coming today and want to recycle it in worm bins with trimmings and such.

I have come across local peat moss previously, although not bailed. So it is not Canadian Sphagnum peat moss?

Alaskan humus is not no. Its more like the top layer of forest soil. Some regions in Alaska are very rich with it.



What do you mean by 'thickest hyphae mycorrhizae'? If anything there may be some endomycorrhizal fungi spores in it, just as there could be in peat moss, which could infect your roots. To my knowledge it has nothing to do with thickness of hyphae.

Yes the mycorrhizae in Alaskan humus which is not dried spores though live mycorrhizae has the thickest hyphae.


Unless you are getting an Alaska humus product which is not on the market, then there is a 95% chance (I'm being moderate) it contains Sphagnum peat. The only way you could tell this is by looking at it under magnification to see the Sphagnum leaves.

Looks like dirt when it dries out. It has organic matter in it though it is not harvested from peat bogs. It could have peat in it though it is not a peat base to my understanding.


I had one more question. Do you harvest your clay soil outdoors? If you've already answered, apologies.

This came from a back field near the wood line. Unfertilized. That field which I used to grow in before some thieves moved in next door, now smells like cake when I mow it.
 

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Karma Xul

Member
Good luck with that. I tried by growing commercially (medicinal) in similar fashion (natural living soil) from 96 to 2006 and then came on here preaching the gospel in 2008 but very few understood.

Most growers want something they can test and believe is super better than what they did before. The elusive magic bullet.

Most of what I apply is from Elaine Ingham and Jeff Lowenfel though he studied Elaine who is the founder of the soil food web and has multiple doctorates in the field. I grow medically and live in an area where I can grow for anyone in the world with a card. If you happen to know of anyone who would be willing to allow me to expand my numbers with a digital copy of one, please let me know :)
 
Karma do pirate bugs take out most pests like mites and thrips? If so can you help with a good place to grab some please and thankyou!
 

Karma Xul

Member
They crashed through the top of my atrium snapping the beams, gave me thrips and PM. Sulfur burner took care of the PM. Tried thripex though 50,000 microbes was not enough. Getting in 1000 pirate bugs soon. Thrips are such a pain in the ass.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Most of what I apply is from Elaine Ingham and Jeff Lowenfel though he studied Elaine who is the founder of the soil food web and has multiple doctorates in the field. I grow medically and live in an area where I can grow for anyone in the world with a card. If you happen to know of anyone who would be willing to allow me to expand my numbers with a digital copy of one, please let me know :)

Jeff is a friend of mine. Both Elaine and Jeff have acknowledged my findings concerning peat moss regarding the shared microbial life. When the Alaska humus products are shipped cross border they are classed as peat.

You are to the best of my knowledge mistaken about AM hyphae surviving as a living entity. If this comes from Elaine, she is wrong. As far as I know, Alaska humus (Ancient Forest, etc) are harvested from areas where there used to be forests, just like peat moss.

Elaine has not tested good biochar then. I make my own. She does not have multiple doctorates. Where do you get that?

I was asking about the source of your peat referring to Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, not Alaska 'humus'. Is it? If so where do you get large bails for $4.

Good to hear that you harvest the clay soil.
 
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