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Flood and drain bucket first timer problems

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Update: 10 days in and still very little change. I'm close to scraping the plants since there is very little progress. Only a couple have grown about 1in or so with some small leaf development. others are still small. Purple stems, dark green kinda shiny leaves.

Heres a couple pics.

I keep hoping that someone has seen this before and can chime in before august is over because at this rate i'm wasting lots of time. I upped the flood time to every two hours. Ppm has now been raised to 450ish. I've seen the ph raise a good amount daily but the ppms rise as well too. today the ppm are at 467


i didnt have time to go back an re read, but that last pic, that lower level yellow fan leave. its looks like you have mites.


if you dont have mites, it may help if you clean out some of the unusable lower plant growth. looks like u have mites. an 2 your inpatient.

best of luck..
 

mjlover

Member
i didnt have time to go back an re read, but that last pic, that lower level yellow fan leave. its looks like you have mites.


if you dont have mites, it may help if you clean out some of the unusable lower plant growth. looks like u have mites. an 2 your inpatient.

best of luck..

I'll check for mites but I'm pretty sure that's just the defiecency that has been showing up. Tiny yellow dots Between the veins. I've had spider mites before and believe me I'm good at seeing those little cob webs and that was years ago and a whole different house.


The weird thing is last night I checked the ppms and I was around 472. Just now after a few more floods (maybe 4-5) I was at 397. And the ph was up .3. I'm getting more and more convinced my ppms are way too low. I'm gonna slowly raise the ec level to 1.0 over the next couple days. Right now i raised it back to .73 ec
 

mjlover

Member
I'll check for mites but I'm pretty sure that's just the defiecency that has been showing up. Tiny yellow dots Between the veins. I've had spider mites before and believe me I'm good at seeing those little cob webs and that was years ago and a whole different house.


The weird thing is last night I checked the ppms and I was around 472. Just now after a few more floods (maybe 4-5) I was at 397. And the ph was up .3. I'm getting more and more convinced my ppms are way too low. I'm gonna slowly raise the ec level to 1.0 over the next couple days. Right now i raised it back to .73 ec

I checked for mites and theres no sign of them. I added some pics of some mothers that i'm flowering. I've been having issues with spots between veins for a while now. I sometimes think i fix the problem then it comes back. You can see some other cheese plants that have the spots (maybe getting worse) that are 2 weeks into flower. I believe its either a mag deficiency or ph is too low. I always shoot for 6.5-6.8 but I might need to start shooting for 6.8-7.0 to guarantee the uptake of mag

I also pulled a plant out of the hydration can anyone tell me if it looks like root rot? I now changed the flood times to 30 min every 3 hrs. so 4 times while the lights are on. I might drop it to three times just in case. I'm also seeing ppm continue to rise so I dropped it to .64. It had risen to .82 from .72 in 1.5 days.


I'm taking pineapple express clones tomorrow so by the time they root I will deicide if i'm gonna toss these cheese clones. I still can't believe its been two weeks with no real progress. I feel like my green thumb is turning black.
 

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LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
I checked for mites and theres no sign of them. I added some pics of some mothers that i'm flowering. I've been having issues with spots between veins for a while now. I sometimes think i fix the problem then it comes back. You can see some other cheese plants that have the spots (maybe getting worse) that are 2 weeks into flower. I believe its either a mag deficiency or ph is too low. I always shoot for 6.5-6.8 but I might need to start shooting for 6.8-7.0 to guarantee the uptake of mag

I also pulled a plant out of the hydration can anyone tell me if it looks like root rot? I now changed the flood times to 30 min every 3 hrs. so 4 times while the lights are on. I might drop it to three times just in case. I'm also seeing ppm continue to rise so I dropped it to .64. It had risen to .82 from .72 in 1.5 days.


I'm taking pineapple express clones tomorrow so by the time they root I will deicide if i'm gonna toss these cheese clones. I still can't believe its been two weeks with no real progress. I feel like my green thumb is turning black.

looks like the roots are turning a bit brown did you notice any slimey kinda stuff going on in there. the hydroton looks pretty wet this time. i would reduce the 30 minutes to 15...i run once an hour for 6 minutes when doing med large plants fills the container to the top and then shuts off and drains.

might be a good idea to add some h2o2 just in case. what are your res temps at....q light leaking into your rez or it being too hot will cause root rot. i use sm90 so i dont see much of that its all natural and keeps the roots white and fresh even at higher temps. its been hot if you are in summer I would say insulate a box with foam insulation and put the res in that and way out of your lights. what are you room temps..q

res needs total darkness or you get algae, pythium ie root rot and ph shift...
 

LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
looks like the roots are turning a bit brown did you notice any slimey kinda stuff going on in there. the hydroton looks pretty wet this time. i would reduce the 30 minutes to 15...i run once an hour for 6 minutes when doing med large plants fills the container to the top and then shuts off and drains.

might be a good idea to add some h2o2 just in case. what are your res temps at....q light leaking into your rez or it being too hot will cause root rot. i use sm90 so i dont see much of that its all natural and keeps the roots white and fresh even at higher temps. its been hot if you are in summer I would say insulate a box with foam insulation and put the res in that and way out of your lights. what are you room temps..q

res needs total darkness or you get algae, pythium ie root rot and ph shift...

i have found over time that when using the coir plugs if they stay wet they seem to have trouble if you are doing new clones i suggest trying a bubble cloner and going without a medium until you get to the buckets. my best results this way


also did you wash the hydroton out good prior to use if not that stuff is a mess and can give you trouble might try flushing it out really good you need to with the root rot anyways i cant remember how much h202 per gallon but i advise you to do it. fight it and get through it you will be fine. clean the res with h202 and a scrubber too the whole system is best. with hydro cleanliness is next to godliness.....
 
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mjlover

Member
i have found over time that when using the coir plugs if they stay wet they seem to have trouble if you are doing new clones i suggest trying a bubble cloner and going without a medium until you get to the buckets. my best results this way


also did you wash the hydroton out good prior to use if not that stuff is a mess and can give you trouble might try flushing it out really good you need to with the root rot anyways i cant remember how much h202 per gallon but i advise you to do it. fight it and get through it you will be fine. clean the res with h202 and a scrubber too the whole system is best. with hydro cleanliness is next to godliness.....

rez temps are 22.7c The 50 gallon rez is outside the tent in a dark room. I'm definitely feeling like the green thumb is gone. I flushed my mothers with some pretty high ph water to try and get run off in the 6.xx and then fed them pretty light nutes at 1.5 ec and they look a little on the lighter green side now and it looks like the yellowish spots are getting worse and are even some brown spots on older leaves. some leaf tips are curled upwards. everything points to Mag defiency but I can't get a grip on those plants either.

The clones are doing better. I have growth in 3 out of six. the stems are so purple on all of them I've never seen such a purple stem before. The leafs are shiny, leathery looking. I'm guessing nitrogen toxicity but its strange at .65 ec. Take a look at the pics. I also through in a pic of my tent a few months ago and now i'm really depressed.

I will look into a bubble cloner and I did wash the hydroton a decent amount but not nearly as much as I good have
 

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LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
rez temps are 22.7c The 50 gallon rez is outside the tent in a dark room. I'm definitely feeling like the green thumb is gone. I flushed my mothers with some pretty high ph water to try and get run off in the 6.xx and then fed them pretty light nutes at 1.5 ec and they look a little on the lighter green side now and it looks like the yellowish spots are getting worse and are even some brown spots on older leaves. some leaf tips are curled upwards. everything points to Mag defiency but I can't get a grip on those plants either.

The clones are doing better. I have growth in 3 out of six. the stems are so purple on all of them I've never seen such a purple stem before. The leafs are shiny, leathery looking. I'm guessing nitrogen toxicity but its strange at .65 ec. Take a look at the pics. I also through in a pic of my tent a few months ago and now i'm really depressed.

I will look into a bubble cloner and I did wash the hydroton a decent amount but not nearly as much as I good have

your flowering room looks fine and the hydro's are growing. I recommend getting you some 30% h202 from the first aid section of the pharmacy. 1ml to 1gallon add every 3 days as it disipates quickly in water. should get that root rot under control. that is probably the cause of the yellowing. don't be afraid to remove the yellowed leaves as the plant will waste energy trying to repair them. you have growth it just takes patience try the h202 its cheap too.

you could choose to remove the plants from the hydroton and flush with .5 cups per gallon in a bucket for 10 minutes and then flush with plain water then put back in the hydroton. i used to just add a bit to the res every few days....theres a bit of a learning curve with hydro but you chose the right medium to go with.
 

mjlover

Member
peg your hydro ph to 5.5-5.8 and you will see improvements too. 6 is too high.

Once I get to 6.1 or 6.2 I drop the ph back down to 5.5 and let it swing back up.

You think the flowering mothers are fine? I feel like the spots are getting worse and I'm worried it will hurt their harvest. All the leaves look slightly yellower (light green) and the spots are almost on every older leaf (~50%). The yellow spots start out as a just light shades of yellow on the leaf almost like it blends in then individual yellow spots appear and even on some older leaves brown/rusty spots appear.

And you think the shiney leathery looking leaves isn't nitrogen toxicity? But the root rot?
 

LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
Once I get to 6.1 or 6.2 I drop the ph back down to 5.5 and let it swing back up.

You think the flowering mothers are fine? I feel like the spots are getting worse and I'm worried it will hurt their harvest. All the leaves look slightly yellower (light green) and the spots are almost on every older leaf (~50%). The yellow spots start out as a just light shades of yellow on the leaf almost like it blends in then individual yellow spots appear and even on some older leaves brown/rusty spots appear.

And you think the shiney leathery looking leaves isn't nitrogen toxicity? But the root rot?

I thought your flowering room was the large pic posted last.

The first two pics resemble to me what might be calcium deficiency. calcium is absorbed in soiless 5.4-5.8 and soil 5.0-6.0. Lockout occurs at 2.0-5.3....

are you letting them dry out too much...q is this happening on new leaves or older ones or both. if affecting new growth and not the older leaves then i would say its a ca problem. a soil watering and ph meter stick are invaluable items for the soil horticulturalist.

try posting some good plant and leaf pics in the infirmary your sure to get some better assessments over there.
 
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mjlover

Member
I thought your flowering room was the large pic posted last.

The first two pics resemble to me what might be calcium deficiency. calcium is absorbed in soiless 5.4-5.8 and soil 5.0-6.0. Lockout occurs at 2.0-5.3....

are you letting them dry out too much...q is this happening on new leaves or older ones or both. if affecting new growth and not the older leaves then i would say its a ca problem. a soil watering and ph meter stick are invaluable items for the soil horticulturalist.

try posting some good plant and leaf pics in the infirmary your sure to get some better assessments over there.

Update: almost 24 hrs ago I upped the ec to 1.0. After two floods the ec has dropped to .97. I'm really hoping the low ec was my problem and these things can start taking off.

The flowering mothers on the other hand aren't looking so good and are going almost all yellow :(. I'm not having a good grow this go around and I only have a limited amount of grows left until the girlfriend moves in 😢
 

mjlover

Member
So i accidentally knocked over a bucket and this is what the roots looked like. It was also late into my dark cycle and the hydroton was really wet. Towards the bottom you can see white roots but the majority of the roots are brown. I cut the flood time to twice a day (back to where i started lol) when lights turn on a hour before lights go out.
 

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LostTribe

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Premium user
leaf looks nice color the roots arent that brown now....any slime on them? did you try the h2o2 peroxide treatment at all?
 
Discoloration of leaves, blistering, purple petioles, slow growth. All signs of tobacco mosaic virus. Depending on where you live you can get a leaf tissue test done to check for nutrient deficiency, lockout or excess. You have to be specific about the mosaic virus test it is $250+.
 

mjlover

Member
leaf looks nice color the roots arent that brown now....any slime on them? did you try the h2o2 peroxide treatment at all?

I didn't add h202, but I did make sure to add hydroguard to the last Rez change. I'm having some decent growth out of all of them Exocet one plant. All the stems are dee purple though. The ph climbs from 5.5-5.6~ to 6.0-6.1 daily so I know some of the plants are drinking the nutes. I saw a slight increase in ec from 1.2 to 1.27 but I hadn't top of the Rez since the previous day so I'm guessing that played into that reading. I'm getting lots of growth from the roots between the two buckets. I'm assuming it's because the water pulls the roots down there as it drains? I'm just hoping the roots don't try to grow there exclusively.


Discoloration of leaves, blistering, purple petioles, slow growth. All signs of tobacco mosaic virus. Depending on where you live you can get a leaf tissue test done to check for nutrient deficiency, lockout or excess. You have to be specific about the mosaic virus test it is $250+.

I have no clue what your talking about
 

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mjlover

Member
Heres some more pics. Check how purple the stems are! The leaves are still pretty shiney but not all of them are. Temps get to about 67 at night and highs are around 73 with lights on.
 

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mjlover

Member
I switched over to Lucas formula since I had enough micro and bloom laying around for one Rez change. I didn't know it would jump the ec so high but I'm gonna run it for 7-10 days and see if things get better. Over a day or two I've seen them drop the ec from 1.62 to 1.44. I also added growpots inside the buckets to keep roots inside the top bucket. I was getting some weird growth stretching and I was afraid the roots would focus all their efforts to grow in the small area between the buckets. The roots that were underneath the top bucket were white as could be but the roots in the actually bucket close to the stem were brown and dead. Let me know if I'm way off but I'm now going back to thinking I need to flood more often and the roots are dying closest to the light/top? Does that sound right? I was only flooding at lights on and then around 12 hrs later. Now I'm flooding three times- lights on, 6 hours later, 6 hours later. This allows 12 hours between the next flood 6 while lights are still on and 6 hours with lights off. Should I flood one more time before lights go out? Or wait and see how plants respond to the switch to three floods? Thanks in advance

Mj
 
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