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Fish hydrolysate and phosphorus acid

Bio boy

Active member
To stabilise the fish hydrolysate made phosporus acid is added to reduce to a 3-3.5max ph

this will also raise p though ? Which I was avoiding and I am sure I read somthing negative about adding it though now I am ready to bottle I can’t find the info I had on the acid

@Microbeman reccomends not feeding p as my composts will contain enough and most fertiliser p pushes are for deficient soils in the field and not from built indoor beds we made that are nutrient dense already p is rough and holds well there.

I have 25 litres of fish hydrolysate made using neptunes harvest recipie they shared on instagram pm. And they stabilise with 3% phos too now, though the old recipie didnt
but recipies online like ridge dalefarms fish don’t stabilise it atall ?
there npk would be very different then eh ?

i find different npks online
8.7.7 simbio
2.5.1 Tesco
5.1.1 alaskan fish
2.4.1 neptunes

looks like Alaskan fish doesn’t add any phosphoric acid? yet they say they do ?

but is the p rise in acid an acceptable p source ?
I don’t wanna fuck with my microbes atall eh and microbeman said to use fish for the fungal and microbes but also states not to fertilise phosphorus unless rock phos

if anyone has any study articles on it I’d love to see some
 
Last edited:

KIS

Active member
You're comparing fish emulsion to fish hydrolysate. They're totally different products. Phosphoric acid will absolutely raise available P. While many soils can have sufficient P, the issue is with over application of P is not that it will hurt the plant (it's a luxury nutrient) but that phosphates damage our environment and we are dealing with peak phosphorus issues in regards to overall supply.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
To stabilise the fish hydrolysate made phosporus acid is added to reduce to a 3-3.5max ph

this will also raise p though ? Which I was avoiding and I am sure I read somthing negative about adding it though now I am ready to bottle I can’t find the info I had on the acid

@Microbeman reccomends not feeding p as my composts will contain enough and most fertiliser p pushes are for deficient soils in the field and not from built indoor beds we made that are nutrient dense already p is rough and holds well there.

I have 25 litres of fish hydrolysate made using neptunes harvest recipie they shared on instagram pm. And they stabilise with 3% phos too now, though the old recipie didnt
but recipies online like ridge dalefarms fish don’t stabilise it atall ?
there npk would be very different then eh ?

i find different npks online
8.7.7 simbio
2.5.1 Tesco
5.1.1 alaskan fish
2.4.1 neptunes

looks like Alaskan fish doesn’t add any phosphoric acid? yet they say they do ?

but is the p rise in acid an acceptable p source ?
I don’t wanna fuck with my microbes atall eh and microbeman said to use fish for the fungal and microbes but also states not to fertilise phosphorus unless rock phos

if anyone has any study articles on it I’d love to see some
I use fish hydrolysate fully diluted. The phosphoric acid is a drag but one of the only ways to stabilize it for bottling. True enough that fish hydrolysate is a good fungal food, either in ACT or soil but so is molasses. If you are considering this for ACT be aware if there ain't fungi in your compost/vermicompost it ain't going to magically grow in ACT. If you do have fungi in your [v]compost then to encourage growth in ACT try pre-feeding your [v]compost 24 hours ahead. For 4 liters of [v]compost I mix in a half liter of livestock grade bran and moisten the batch with molasses diluted about 1:30 with water > cover with cloth or paper towel. This should also shorten your brewing time to 24 hours.

You might try lactobacillus to stabilize your homemade fish or an EM fermentation. I've never tried but it would be interesting to ferment liquid fish with EM in a temperature controlled box.

1673469968944.jpeg


There are safer forms of phosphorus like soft rock phosphate and liquid extracts of bioaccumulator plants or as you mentioned properly made compost. The aforementioned plant material as well as soft rock phosphate are good additions for making thermophilic compost.
 

Bio boy

Active member
I use fish hydrolysate fully diluted. The phosphoric acid is a drag but one of the only ways to stabilize it for bottling. True enough that fish hydrolysate is a good fungal food, either in ACT or soil but so is molasses. If you are considering this for ACT be aware if there ain't fungi in your compost/vermicompost it ain't going to magically grow in ACT. If you do have fungi in your [v]compost then to encourage growth in ACT try pre-feeding your [v]compost 24 hours ahead. For 4 liters of [v]compost I mix in a half liter of livestock grade bran and moisten the batch with molasses diluted about 1:30 with water > cover with cloth or paper towel. This should also shorten your brewing time to 24 hours.

You might try lactobacillus to stabilize your homemade fish or an EM fermentation. I've never tried but it would be interesting to ferment liquid fish with EM in a temperature controlled box.

View attachment 18800843

There are safer forms of phosphorus like soft rock phosphate and liquid extracts of bioaccumulator plants or as you mentioned properly made compost. The aforementioned plant material as well as soft rock phosphate are good additions for making thermophilic compost.
Awesome as I’ve added fungal products and labs to my soils get a good fuzz growing
I’ve a new mix of soil basically coots mix without neem meal I am replacing it with alfalfa ,
my thinking was I would use the fish 1nc a week to feed the plants with more N and to add amino acids as it contains about 18 enzymes minerals and other bits n bobs
them fish compost grows look tasty lol
I figure to do this till flower and stop
add some kelp to raise k and water only till the end
@Microbeman i read your website kept it bookmarked long time ago lol just realized who you was here, face palm .
my Aim when I came was yield and now to get that I must feed the microbes and the soil I’m just worried to harm the herd lol
I made the fish I didn’t buy it that’s new to me and freaky scary haha

I have 25 liters made from salmon and cod fermented with bromline enzymes and lab it was done in 1 month to a slimy digested gulp
no smell it’s sat in the shed for 6month and now I remembered I’ve come to strain it zero smell just thick like a gravy and nice n clear as I used raw sugar it’s lighter in color than molasses

so I test ph in the morning and stabilize
I have ph down phosphoric acid 80% if that’s acceptable
I don’t have any rock phos ? Can that really stabilize I assumed that takes months to release ?

I acutaly Have em1 in the fridge so I will give it a try I know a dude who adds it at the end just to make sure , I mean that would break down even more stuff I am sure although it wouldn’t really adjust the ph much diluted to the fish ? When I add ‘‘em to water the ph rises ofc
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Awesome as I’ve added fungal products and labs to my soils get a good fuzz growing
I’ve a new mix of soil basically coots mix without neem meal I am replacing it with alfalfa ,
my thinking was I would use the fish 1nc a week to feed the plants with more N and to add amino acids as it contains about 18 enzymes minerals and other bits n bobs
them fish compost grows look tasty lol
I figure to do this till flower and stop
add some kelp to raise k and water only till the end
@Microbeman i read your website kept it bookmarked long time ago lol just realized who you was here, face palm .
my Aim when I came was yield and now to get that I must feed the microbes and the soil I’m just worried to harm the herd lol
I made the fish I didn’t buy it that’s new to me and freaky scary haha

I have 25 liters made from salmon and cod fermented with bromline enzymes and lab it was done in 1 month to a slimy digested gulp
no smell it’s sat in the shed for 6month and now I remembered I’ve come to strain it zero smell just thick like a gravy and nice n clear as I used raw sugar it’s lighter in color than molasses

so I test ph in the morning and stabilize
I have ph down phosphoric acid 80% if that’s acceptable
I don’t have any rock phos ? Can that really stabilize I assumed that takes months to release ?

I acutaly Have em1 in the fridge so I will give it a try I know a dude who adds it at the end just to make sure , I mean that would break down even more stuff I am sure although it wouldn’t really adjust the ph much diluted to the fish ? When I add ‘‘em to water the ph rises ofc
The rock phosphate comment was related to using in soil or compost, not the fish. Good luck.
 

Bio boy

Active member
The rock phosphate comment was related to using in soil or compost, not the fish. Good luck.
So stabilize it with the phosphorus acid ph down for my liquid fish to 3.5 to stop it digesting and going off is fine .

I will do 2 liters with em1 airtrap it n see what happens
@@@@@@@@

out of curiosity feeding my soil I add a tbsp to a gallon
if I was making a compost like your saying 1.30 with bran isn’t this like a fishy Bokashi ? We leave that for 2 week normally the fish really makes this happen in 24 hrs ?

how would you apply that to soil just topdress n let microbes at it ? Or are we putting this in An act ? assuming as your the brew king lol I’ve brewed act from packets of microbes but never made a fish or alfalfa act tea ,admit I’m a newb to that ..so if you do have a minute I love your lectures and still reading some LOL

(while I’ve got ya , on your website you say you trapped out the worms till the end ..then added them back to digest it all. but didn’t explain why ? I leave my worms in my pots is that ok ? Only reason I can see to remove them would be to reduce the bacteria and fungal they eat that the plant could use ? But the poop is full of that to one reason why we use ewc in act etc so can’t be that )
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
So stabilize it with the phosphorus acid ph down for my liquid fish to 3.5 to stop it digesting and going off is fine .

I will do 2 liters with em1 airtrap it n see what happens
@@@@@@@@

out of curiosity feeding my soil I add a tbsp to a gallon
if I was making a compost like your saying 1.30 with bran isn’t this like a fishy Bokashi ? We leave that for 2 week normally the fish really makes this happen in 24 hrs ?

how would you apply that to soil just topdress n let microbes at it ? Or are we putting this in An act ? assuming as your the brew king lol I’ve brewed act from packets of microbes but never made a fish or alfalfa act tea ,admit I’m a newb to that ..so if you do have a minute I love your lectures and still reading some LOL

(while I’ve got ya , on your website you say you trapped out the worms till the end ..then added them back to digest it all. but didn’t explain why ? I leave my worms in my pots is that ok ? Only reason I can see to remove them would be to reduce the bacteria and fungal they eat that the plant could use ? But the poop is full of that to one reason why we use ewc in act etc so can’t be that )
I think you may be mixing some things up from what I posted. Some is related to stabilizing the fish. Some is related to using P because you mentioned I said not to use P (but I meant processed P) > in soil/growing.

Some is related to making compost.

Some is related to making ACT and prefeeding the ingredients. Maybe if you read it again with this in mind.
I do not think I said that I add the worms back in after trapping them.
 

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