The pictures come out all rediculous on icmag, sorry.
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FIRST TURBOKLONE 1ST CYCLE COMPLETE FAILURE
- Thread starter PaulieWaulie
- Start date
I always disliked turbo cloner bc their collars are so tough. They pinch the stem too much. Ez clone makes soft and hard collars. Soft collars never cause any issues for me. Always no dome. I use nothing but ro water with cal mag, clonex gel when i cut i dip, a new razor blade every time. 3 nodes per clone about 5-6 in long. I double and even triple up on each collar and they all root. I get 100% to root most of the time. Ph at 5.8. Rh in the air has been as low as 40% no problems.
Heater in the rez was not needed. I have never used a heater in the rez for any reason. Heat is your enemy in hydro. 70 and below for rez temps. I root my cuttings at room temps of 70 degrees. Your rez temps should be below 70. once they move upward, all the diseases start to take hold. your dissolved oxygen goes out the window.
i also never added hydrogen peroxide to the rez either. soap and water it intially, and change every 7 days. No need to rewash until cycle is over and your restart.
I set my nutes at 180 -200. ph indicated with general hydro balances ph to 5.8- orange-dont have a ph meter-dont need it. I use the drops.
I also never use a dome.
Ditch the aquarium heater. No hydrogen peroxide.. Change the rez every 7 days with 180 to 200 tds nutes
Soap and water the rez at the beginning of cycle.- not in between- just change your rez with balanced nutes.
i also never added hydrogen peroxide to the rez either. soap and water it intially, and change every 7 days. No need to rewash until cycle is over and your restart.
I set my nutes at 180 -200. ph indicated with general hydro balances ph to 5.8- orange-dont have a ph meter-dont need it. I use the drops.
I also never use a dome.
Ditch the aquarium heater. No hydrogen peroxide.. Change the rez every 7 days with 180 to 200 tds nutes
Soap and water the rez at the beginning of cycle.- not in between- just change your rez with balanced nutes.
Imvho, if temps were too warm you would’ve had rotten stems by now...
Looks like a lot of foliage though. Cloners in general are fickle contraptions. When the work good they work GREAT, but when they act up it could lead to divorces
One sure fire way I have found to keep my cloner pumping out healthy cuttings was to use an “Ice Probe”. It keeps water temps as cold as I want consistently. Haven’t had an issue in the years I’ve been using it.
Have a look...
View Image View Image View Image
Its pretty cold here right now. as I just posted I have an aquarium heater, have it set to 72. Maybe I set it to 70 like you? Can you quickly share, what youre room temp and RH is?, what your light type wattage and distance is. Also For rooting hormones, and RES PH, they look good in your pics!
ok, I will set the heater to 70 for a start. Im not sure how much dissolved oxygen will play a role, in a sprayer set up, as opposed to in DWC where they are 100% submerged in water, Oxygen is in the air is what Im saying and they do get direct air with a sprayer system.
Also, skipping the hydrogen peroxide this time.
I am skipping the nutrients, as im sure they are benefical for fast transition, It sounds like rooting will occure just fine without. Either way I wanted to keep things simple. And I did add 100PPM of nutrients on that first run, and it failed. Hence doing things different on this run.
Thanks for helping out. Check back, I will post an update tomorrow on their status.
I will remove the dome, for maybe an hour or so at day 5, and just see how they respond. The second they are wilting the tinest bit and not as perky as they are now, I will put dome back. My light is half as intense as last time, so maybe they can handle the dome off this time.
ditch the heater all together. not needed. you said room temps are 68- 70. your rez water temps will be fine.
K ditched the heater boss. Res temp now sitting steady at 72, Same as above clones canopy temp pretty much.
Room temps 70-72 lights on, 66-68 lights off.
You cant do it that way. If you immediately put a dome on, they get used to the high rh. Having unrooted clones go from a dome to none will cause immediate wilting because they arent hardened off. You DO NOT need a dome at all with an aerocloner. I promise you. Take a cutting off a plant and just setup your cloner which is brand new clean and i promise you it will root and not wilt from day 1. Of of the main benefits to an aerocloner is not having to harden off your clones to the harsh lower rh air once they are rooted. Pm me if you want a step by step play by play here.
Ok, I actually did have the dome propped up a bit yesterday, and they handled it fine and looked robust. will take it off comepletly and see if they can handle it now. todays day 3 so still early enough.
digging
Member
Cloning Manual
My name is Billy Blackburn. I am the creator/inventor of the EZ-CLONE cloning system and an owner
of EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc. First of all, I would like to say congratulations on the purchase of your
new EZ-CLONE and thank you very much for your business and choosing us to fulfill your cloning
needs.
The EZ-CLONE was specifically designed to simplify the plant cloning process and eliminate the need
for daily maintenance. That being said, there are still a few technical advice questions that I regularly
receive, so I am going to share with you exactly what I do to get the best possible results from start to
finish. Please understand that this is specifically MY opinion. My formula for success is based on
personal experience using the system that I designed, the gathering of information from others who
have purchased and use our product, and feedback from other hydroponic industry experts. Please be
aware that I understand there are numerous products on the market that may be used in conjunction
with the EZ-CLONE cloning system to get good results. The products that I choose to use are simply
my personal preference.
Sections Covered
• Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
• Unit Placement
• Lighting
• Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
• Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
• Water Temperature and Water Chillers
• Daily Maintenance
• Transplanting
• Humidity Domes???
• Cleaning Between Uses
Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
After removing the unit from the packaging material and before starting assembly, I always do a quick
rinse down of the lid and reservoir to remove any unwanted dust or debris that may have been caused
by shipping. Next, assembly of the unit is very basic and takes just a few minutes. Follow the assembly
instructions supplied in the unit. If for any reason the instructions were lost or missing from the package,
please go to www.ezclone.com and click on assembly instructions.
Unit Placement
The unit can be placed on either the floor or up off the ground on any structure stable enough to hold it
when filled with water. I prefer to set it on a sturdy plastic table or stand.
EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc.
10170 Croydon Way, Suite G
Sacramento, CA 95827
Lighting
The preferred lighting to use is a 2 or 4 foot dual fluorescent fixture. The 40 watt bulbs work best and
this is a sufficient amount of light for the delicate cuttings. A 2 foot fixture works well over our 30 cutting
unit and a 4 foot fixture supplies adequate coverage over our 60 and 120 cutting units. The light should
be securely suspended over the unit and should be placed about 8-12 inches above the top of the
cuttings.
Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
Next, with the manifold properly attached to the water pump and placed in the center of the reservoir,
fill the reservoir with tap water or another source of quality water. Fill the unit until the water is just
touching the very bottom of the misters, making sure not to cover them. This will ensure that there is
the largest volume of water in the reservoir possible without hindering the operation of the manifold.
Remember, the more water that’s in the unit, the cooler the water will remain, and the more stable the
ph level will be.
Note: Avoid using (distilled) water! It causes lack of progress and could prevent roots from
forming at all. However, Reverse Osmosis water is usually fine. If you feel that the tap water in
your area is too high in certain mineral content or has excessive chlorine, it’s ok to use an RO
system, but tap water in most areas is usually sufficient.
Next, I add my solutions. The first one is Dyna Gro’s – ProTekt. This is a silica based solution that
strengthens the cuttings from the inside out. It assists in building stronger cell walls, preventing the
formation of bacteria and invading fungi, and helps with overall health and vigor. I add it at dilution rate
of 1 teaspoon per gallon. In a large 120 cutting unit, this equates to be approximately 20 teaspoons. In
a 60 cutting unit, it equates to 10 teaspoons, and in a 30 cutting unit, it equates to be about 5 teaspoons.
Next, I add Dyna Gro’s – KLN. This is added at the same dilution rate, 1 teaspoon per gallon. KLN is a
liquid rooting hormone and is also full of vitamins and minerals.
After my solutions are added, I’ll adjust the PH. Tap water is usually PH adjusted somewhere close to
neutral or just above 7.0. After adding the Pro Tekt, it usually always causes an increase in PH, so the
PH needs to be lowered with a PH down buffering solution. I’ve also noticed that even without additives
of any kind, the PH of tap water will have a tendency to rise over the course of 24-48 hours. To
compensate for this, I adjust my initial PH down to approximately 5.2 because I know the PH will slowly
rise somewhere close to between 5.8 and 6.3. This is an acceptable range for getting quality results. I
keep the closest eye on my PH during this time period between 24-48 hrs. If the PH needs to be
adjusted again later on, do so, but it usually stables out after the first couple adjustments. If you are not
sure if you’ve got an accurate PH reading, I highly recommend getting a quality digital PH meter. You
should be using one of these for your feeding solutions in all stages of growth anyway.
Note: The additives I choose to use for the cloning process are NOT high in macronutrients. In
other words, I am not adding nutrients that will feed the plants with high NPK levels. (N=Nitrogen,
P=Phosphorus, and K=Potassium) Regular plant nutrients should be saved until the cuttings
have developed an adequate root system. I know that some people choose to clone with light
amounts of these nutrients, but in my experience, it takes the cutting longer to develop roots.
The reason a cutting is growing roots to begin with is because it’s in survival mode. It’s searching
for food. So, by adding nutrients to a cutting before it has developed a root structure or “a mouth”
if you will, it’s completely defeating the purpose. Save your nutrients until the plant needs them!
Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
Next, I start taking cuttings from my Mother or Donor plant. I prefer to take them directly from the Mom
right before I’m ready to insert them into the unit. On the average, I take a 4 or 5 inch cutting and leave
2 to 4 leaves on the top. If the leaves are small, I don’t trim them. If they are medium to large, I will trim
half of each leaf off. The reason for this is because the cutting only requires a small leaf area to absorb
a sufficient amount of light to keep it alive. Also, because the cutting does not have a root structure yet,
the leaves are sustained by the amount of moisture that is held in the stem. If the leaves are smaller,
the cutting does not have to work as hard to supply moisture to the leaves, which allows the cutting to
focus its energy on “producing roots”. It also has the added benefit of reducing the overall amount of
leaf area on the top of the Cloner. This prevents some leaves from getting covered by others and
makes for an overall friendlier environment.
As I take each cutting, I will cut it from the Mom with either a sharp razor blade or a quality pair of
trimming shears. Make sure the cutting utensil is clean. It can be sterilized with isopropyl alcohol, a
lighter, or both. I prefer both. I have heard multiple times that it’s necessary for the cutting to be taken
at a 45 degree angle. This is completely false. It does not matter. Just make sure the cut is clean and
the bottom of the cutting is not mangled. Roots will form along the wall of the stem.
Also, I use EZ-CLONE Rooting Gel. After taking each cutting, I place the cutting inside the jar of gel and
let it sit there until I have taken approximately 8 cuttings. This means I have 8 cuttings soaking up the
gel. I pull them out one at a time, insert each cutting into a New Neoprene Collar and place the collar
into the unit. In a 120 unit, there are 15 rows of 8. This is why I take 8 cuttings at a time. I prefer to fill
up a row, take 8 more cuttings, fill up another row, and continue that pattern until the lid is full.
Although the neoprene collars can be reused, I highly recommend using new collars every time you
clone instead of trying to clean the previously used ones. When the collars are used, they can get slime
in the pores, cracks, and creases from various types of additives and I think it’s a bit difficult to
guarantee they get totally clean. I would rather spend the few bucks for new collars and not have to
worry about potentially getting any bad bacteria due the old collars not being cleaned properly.
It is also important to let you know that I do not turn the water pump on until I have the entire unit full of
cuttings and have ph balanced the water. It usually takes about an hour to take 120 cuttings and insert
them into the lid. During this time, the cuttings are still absorbing the gel and an hour is not too long to
wait before turning on the water pump. The clones usually will not wilt within this hour time period, but
if you do get some minor wilting, after you plug the pump in, the clones will perk right back up.
Water Temperature and Water Chillers
IMPORTANT!! - Ok, now it’s time for water temperature. As with most aeroponic and hydroponic
systems, the EZ-CLONE was designed to be used indoors or in a temperature controlled environment.
When I was creating and first started using the EZ-CLONE, I noticed that if my water temperature was
getting over 80 degrees in the reservoir, the cuttings were prone to developing harmful bacteria. This
was usually in the form of a grayish-brown slime, and if not treated quickly, would kill all of my cuttings.
That being said, it didn’t take me very long to figure out that during warm periods of the year, I had to
keep the unit in an air-conditioned room or find another way of keeping my water at a suitable
temperature. My focus was keeping my water as close to 70 degrees as possible. This is where I was
seeing the best results and as long as I was cleaning the unit properly in between uses, my results were
very good, usually between 95-100%.
In an attempt to further the output of the cloning system during hot times of the year and achieve more
consistent results, I decided to try using a Water Chiller. These allow you to cool the water down
considerably without having to place the Cloner in an air-conditioned room. I thought about how much
energy was consumed by running an air conditioner in comparison to the amount of energy used by the
Water Chiller. Although a good quality Water Chiller is a few hundred bucks, it does use considerably
less electricity and it applies the cold water directly to the unit as opposed to trying to cool the air around
it. The amount of money that you save in air conditioning costs pays for the Water Chiller in no time at
all. It’s well worth the investment!
Anyway, I now use a Water Chiller instead of air conditioning. I set the Chiller temperature at 68
degrees and I get better results than I’ve ever seen. The cuttings root within 5-7 days, look absolutely
beautiful, and are able to be pulled from the unit in 10-14 days with about 100% success.
Daily Maintenance
One of the most valuable benefits of using the EZ-CLONE is that it is designed to plug in and let it do
its thing. My time is very valuable and I wanted something to work “for me” not the other way around.
My experience with conventional methods of cloning (putting the cuttings into various mediums and
under humidity domes) was less than successful. Results were sporadic and I never liked the fact that
the cuttings had to be babysat and sprayed with water regularly to keep them from drying out. I’m
always proud when people tell me that they filled up their EZ-CLONE, went on vacation, and when they
came back, had beautiful healthy roots. THAT is what the product is designed to do!
Transplanting
Another major benefit to the EZ-CLONE is that your cuttings are developing roots aeroponically and are
not surrounded by any particular growing medium before they’re ready to transplant. This allows you to
remove the cuttings from the unit and the freedom to place them into soil, soilless mixes, rockwool,
hydroton (clay rocks), coco fiber, pure organic mixes, or to go straight into larger aeroponic or
hydroponic systems. It’s very versatile.
Humidity Domes???
The EZ-CLONE was originally created without a humidity dome specifically because it is NOT
necessary. Conventional methods of cloning require domes to keep the medium and clones from drying
out too quickly. They also require the grower to keep a constant eye on the cuttings to make sure they
don't wilt and die. The inner workings of an EZ-CLONE provide the perfect environment for rapid root
growth. Because the EZ-CLONE gives the cuttings a constant aeroponic mist of solution from inside the
unit, being concerned with the cuttings drying out is never an issue. Also, when cuttings are rooted
under domes and the domes are removed for transplanting, the cuttings go through a period of shock
and can often die. Another benefit to cloning without a humidity dome is that it allows the cuttings to
transpire and breathe naturally and much more efficiently. This drastically reduces the chance of
creating “too much” humidity and attracting harmful airborne fungi such as powdery mildew. The
companies out there who have attempted to copy our design and include a humidity dome are simply
trying to fool the end consumer into believing that the dome is necessary. Leave the domes off! It’s
better for the plants.
Cleaning Between Uses
To keep your EZ-CLONE and all your hydroponic equipment functioning at its peak performance
requires proper cleaning techniques in between uses. The EZ-CLONE is very simple to clean and can
be done very quickly. After a successful cloning cycle, empty the water from the reservoir. The smaller
30 and 60 cutting units can usually be placed in a standard size bathtub. The 120 unit usually needs to
be placed on the ground somewhere with easy access. You may want to do this outside if you don’t
have a bathtub large enough to clean the 120 unit in.
I prefer to fill the used empty reservoir up with hot water completely to the top. If hot water is not
available, cold water will work just fine. I’ll then add 1 cup of standard bleach to a 30 size unit, 2 cups
to a 60 unit, and 3 cups to a 120 unit. Next, I’ll quickly unscrew the misters out of the manifold and I’ll
place my water pump with the manifold attached directly in the center of the reservoir and plug it in.
NOTE: I unscrew the misters to take extra precaution and to flush out any possible root mass or slime
that may have attached to the manifold threads. At this point the pump and manifold are completely
submerged and the hot bleach water is being pushed through both of them, sterilizing the unit. Next, I’ll
place the misters and all airlines in the bleach water at the bottom of the reservoir also. After letting the
unit run in the hot bleach water for approximately 20 minutes, I’ll pull the pump, manifold, misters, and
air tubing out. If the water is too hot, a small fish net works well for scooping them up.
I’ll then take a scrub brush approximately 2 feet in length (toilet brushes work great) and scrub down
the walls of the reservoir, put the lid upside down in the reservoir, and scrub down the inside and
outside of the lid. Empty the bleach water and THOROUGHLY rinse all parts with clean water and
you’re ready for a new cloning cycle. Remember…if you’re reusing the neoprene collars instead of
using new ones, they can be thrown in the bleach water and rinsed as well. Also be careful not to wear
any nice clothes as the bleach water may stain them.
I hope this helps everyone who owns an EZ-CLONE and THANK YOU again for your business and
support. KEEP GROWIN!!!
My name is Billy Blackburn. I am the creator/inventor of the EZ-CLONE cloning system and an owner
of EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc. First of all, I would like to say congratulations on the purchase of your
new EZ-CLONE and thank you very much for your business and choosing us to fulfill your cloning
needs.
The EZ-CLONE was specifically designed to simplify the plant cloning process and eliminate the need
for daily maintenance. That being said, there are still a few technical advice questions that I regularly
receive, so I am going to share with you exactly what I do to get the best possible results from start to
finish. Please understand that this is specifically MY opinion. My formula for success is based on
personal experience using the system that I designed, the gathering of information from others who
have purchased and use our product, and feedback from other hydroponic industry experts. Please be
aware that I understand there are numerous products on the market that may be used in conjunction
with the EZ-CLONE cloning system to get good results. The products that I choose to use are simply
my personal preference.
Sections Covered
• Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
• Unit Placement
• Lighting
• Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
• Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
• Water Temperature and Water Chillers
• Daily Maintenance
• Transplanting
• Humidity Domes???
• Cleaning Between Uses
Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
After removing the unit from the packaging material and before starting assembly, I always do a quick
rinse down of the lid and reservoir to remove any unwanted dust or debris that may have been caused
by shipping. Next, assembly of the unit is very basic and takes just a few minutes. Follow the assembly
instructions supplied in the unit. If for any reason the instructions were lost or missing from the package,
please go to www.ezclone.com and click on assembly instructions.
Unit Placement
The unit can be placed on either the floor or up off the ground on any structure stable enough to hold it
when filled with water. I prefer to set it on a sturdy plastic table or stand.
EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc.
10170 Croydon Way, Suite G
Sacramento, CA 95827
Lighting
The preferred lighting to use is a 2 or 4 foot dual fluorescent fixture. The 40 watt bulbs work best and
this is a sufficient amount of light for the delicate cuttings. A 2 foot fixture works well over our 30 cutting
unit and a 4 foot fixture supplies adequate coverage over our 60 and 120 cutting units. The light should
be securely suspended over the unit and should be placed about 8-12 inches above the top of the
cuttings.
Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
Next, with the manifold properly attached to the water pump and placed in the center of the reservoir,
fill the reservoir with tap water or another source of quality water. Fill the unit until the water is just
touching the very bottom of the misters, making sure not to cover them. This will ensure that there is
the largest volume of water in the reservoir possible without hindering the operation of the manifold.
Remember, the more water that’s in the unit, the cooler the water will remain, and the more stable the
ph level will be.
Note: Avoid using (distilled) water! It causes lack of progress and could prevent roots from
forming at all. However, Reverse Osmosis water is usually fine. If you feel that the tap water in
your area is too high in certain mineral content or has excessive chlorine, it’s ok to use an RO
system, but tap water in most areas is usually sufficient.
Next, I add my solutions. The first one is Dyna Gro’s – ProTekt. This is a silica based solution that
strengthens the cuttings from the inside out. It assists in building stronger cell walls, preventing the
formation of bacteria and invading fungi, and helps with overall health and vigor. I add it at dilution rate
of 1 teaspoon per gallon. In a large 120 cutting unit, this equates to be approximately 20 teaspoons. In
a 60 cutting unit, it equates to 10 teaspoons, and in a 30 cutting unit, it equates to be about 5 teaspoons.
Next, I add Dyna Gro’s – KLN. This is added at the same dilution rate, 1 teaspoon per gallon. KLN is a
liquid rooting hormone and is also full of vitamins and minerals.
After my solutions are added, I’ll adjust the PH. Tap water is usually PH adjusted somewhere close to
neutral or just above 7.0. After adding the Pro Tekt, it usually always causes an increase in PH, so the
PH needs to be lowered with a PH down buffering solution. I’ve also noticed that even without additives
of any kind, the PH of tap water will have a tendency to rise over the course of 24-48 hours. To
compensate for this, I adjust my initial PH down to approximately 5.2 because I know the PH will slowly
rise somewhere close to between 5.8 and 6.3. This is an acceptable range for getting quality results. I
keep the closest eye on my PH during this time period between 24-48 hrs. If the PH needs to be
adjusted again later on, do so, but it usually stables out after the first couple adjustments. If you are not
sure if you’ve got an accurate PH reading, I highly recommend getting a quality digital PH meter. You
should be using one of these for your feeding solutions in all stages of growth anyway.
Note: The additives I choose to use for the cloning process are NOT high in macronutrients. In
other words, I am not adding nutrients that will feed the plants with high NPK levels. (N=Nitrogen,
P=Phosphorus, and K=Potassium) Regular plant nutrients should be saved until the cuttings
have developed an adequate root system. I know that some people choose to clone with light
amounts of these nutrients, but in my experience, it takes the cutting longer to develop roots.
The reason a cutting is growing roots to begin with is because it’s in survival mode. It’s searching
for food. So, by adding nutrients to a cutting before it has developed a root structure or “a mouth”
if you will, it’s completely defeating the purpose. Save your nutrients until the plant needs them!
Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
Next, I start taking cuttings from my Mother or Donor plant. I prefer to take them directly from the Mom
right before I’m ready to insert them into the unit. On the average, I take a 4 or 5 inch cutting and leave
2 to 4 leaves on the top. If the leaves are small, I don’t trim them. If they are medium to large, I will trim
half of each leaf off. The reason for this is because the cutting only requires a small leaf area to absorb
a sufficient amount of light to keep it alive. Also, because the cutting does not have a root structure yet,
the leaves are sustained by the amount of moisture that is held in the stem. If the leaves are smaller,
the cutting does not have to work as hard to supply moisture to the leaves, which allows the cutting to
focus its energy on “producing roots”. It also has the added benefit of reducing the overall amount of
leaf area on the top of the Cloner. This prevents some leaves from getting covered by others and
makes for an overall friendlier environment.
As I take each cutting, I will cut it from the Mom with either a sharp razor blade or a quality pair of
trimming shears. Make sure the cutting utensil is clean. It can be sterilized with isopropyl alcohol, a
lighter, or both. I prefer both. I have heard multiple times that it’s necessary for the cutting to be taken
at a 45 degree angle. This is completely false. It does not matter. Just make sure the cut is clean and
the bottom of the cutting is not mangled. Roots will form along the wall of the stem.
Also, I use EZ-CLONE Rooting Gel. After taking each cutting, I place the cutting inside the jar of gel and
let it sit there until I have taken approximately 8 cuttings. This means I have 8 cuttings soaking up the
gel. I pull them out one at a time, insert each cutting into a New Neoprene Collar and place the collar
into the unit. In a 120 unit, there are 15 rows of 8. This is why I take 8 cuttings at a time. I prefer to fill
up a row, take 8 more cuttings, fill up another row, and continue that pattern until the lid is full.
Although the neoprene collars can be reused, I highly recommend using new collars every time you
clone instead of trying to clean the previously used ones. When the collars are used, they can get slime
in the pores, cracks, and creases from various types of additives and I think it’s a bit difficult to
guarantee they get totally clean. I would rather spend the few bucks for new collars and not have to
worry about potentially getting any bad bacteria due the old collars not being cleaned properly.
It is also important to let you know that I do not turn the water pump on until I have the entire unit full of
cuttings and have ph balanced the water. It usually takes about an hour to take 120 cuttings and insert
them into the lid. During this time, the cuttings are still absorbing the gel and an hour is not too long to
wait before turning on the water pump. The clones usually will not wilt within this hour time period, but
if you do get some minor wilting, after you plug the pump in, the clones will perk right back up.
Water Temperature and Water Chillers
IMPORTANT!! - Ok, now it’s time for water temperature. As with most aeroponic and hydroponic
systems, the EZ-CLONE was designed to be used indoors or in a temperature controlled environment.
When I was creating and first started using the EZ-CLONE, I noticed that if my water temperature was
getting over 80 degrees in the reservoir, the cuttings were prone to developing harmful bacteria. This
was usually in the form of a grayish-brown slime, and if not treated quickly, would kill all of my cuttings.
That being said, it didn’t take me very long to figure out that during warm periods of the year, I had to
keep the unit in an air-conditioned room or find another way of keeping my water at a suitable
temperature. My focus was keeping my water as close to 70 degrees as possible. This is where I was
seeing the best results and as long as I was cleaning the unit properly in between uses, my results were
very good, usually between 95-100%.
In an attempt to further the output of the cloning system during hot times of the year and achieve more
consistent results, I decided to try using a Water Chiller. These allow you to cool the water down
considerably without having to place the Cloner in an air-conditioned room. I thought about how much
energy was consumed by running an air conditioner in comparison to the amount of energy used by the
Water Chiller. Although a good quality Water Chiller is a few hundred bucks, it does use considerably
less electricity and it applies the cold water directly to the unit as opposed to trying to cool the air around
it. The amount of money that you save in air conditioning costs pays for the Water Chiller in no time at
all. It’s well worth the investment!
Anyway, I now use a Water Chiller instead of air conditioning. I set the Chiller temperature at 68
degrees and I get better results than I’ve ever seen. The cuttings root within 5-7 days, look absolutely
beautiful, and are able to be pulled from the unit in 10-14 days with about 100% success.
Daily Maintenance
One of the most valuable benefits of using the EZ-CLONE is that it is designed to plug in and let it do
its thing. My time is very valuable and I wanted something to work “for me” not the other way around.
My experience with conventional methods of cloning (putting the cuttings into various mediums and
under humidity domes) was less than successful. Results were sporadic and I never liked the fact that
the cuttings had to be babysat and sprayed with water regularly to keep them from drying out. I’m
always proud when people tell me that they filled up their EZ-CLONE, went on vacation, and when they
came back, had beautiful healthy roots. THAT is what the product is designed to do!
Transplanting
Another major benefit to the EZ-CLONE is that your cuttings are developing roots aeroponically and are
not surrounded by any particular growing medium before they’re ready to transplant. This allows you to
remove the cuttings from the unit and the freedom to place them into soil, soilless mixes, rockwool,
hydroton (clay rocks), coco fiber, pure organic mixes, or to go straight into larger aeroponic or
hydroponic systems. It’s very versatile.
Humidity Domes???
The EZ-CLONE was originally created without a humidity dome specifically because it is NOT
necessary. Conventional methods of cloning require domes to keep the medium and clones from drying
out too quickly. They also require the grower to keep a constant eye on the cuttings to make sure they
don't wilt and die. The inner workings of an EZ-CLONE provide the perfect environment for rapid root
growth. Because the EZ-CLONE gives the cuttings a constant aeroponic mist of solution from inside the
unit, being concerned with the cuttings drying out is never an issue. Also, when cuttings are rooted
under domes and the domes are removed for transplanting, the cuttings go through a period of shock
and can often die. Another benefit to cloning without a humidity dome is that it allows the cuttings to
transpire and breathe naturally and much more efficiently. This drastically reduces the chance of
creating “too much” humidity and attracting harmful airborne fungi such as powdery mildew. The
companies out there who have attempted to copy our design and include a humidity dome are simply
trying to fool the end consumer into believing that the dome is necessary. Leave the domes off! It’s
better for the plants.
Cleaning Between Uses
To keep your EZ-CLONE and all your hydroponic equipment functioning at its peak performance
requires proper cleaning techniques in between uses. The EZ-CLONE is very simple to clean and can
be done very quickly. After a successful cloning cycle, empty the water from the reservoir. The smaller
30 and 60 cutting units can usually be placed in a standard size bathtub. The 120 unit usually needs to
be placed on the ground somewhere with easy access. You may want to do this outside if you don’t
have a bathtub large enough to clean the 120 unit in.
I prefer to fill the used empty reservoir up with hot water completely to the top. If hot water is not
available, cold water will work just fine. I’ll then add 1 cup of standard bleach to a 30 size unit, 2 cups
to a 60 unit, and 3 cups to a 120 unit. Next, I’ll quickly unscrew the misters out of the manifold and I’ll
place my water pump with the manifold attached directly in the center of the reservoir and plug it in.
NOTE: I unscrew the misters to take extra precaution and to flush out any possible root mass or slime
that may have attached to the manifold threads. At this point the pump and manifold are completely
submerged and the hot bleach water is being pushed through both of them, sterilizing the unit. Next, I’ll
place the misters and all airlines in the bleach water at the bottom of the reservoir also. After letting the
unit run in the hot bleach water for approximately 20 minutes, I’ll pull the pump, manifold, misters, and
air tubing out. If the water is too hot, a small fish net works well for scooping them up.
I’ll then take a scrub brush approximately 2 feet in length (toilet brushes work great) and scrub down
the walls of the reservoir, put the lid upside down in the reservoir, and scrub down the inside and
outside of the lid. Empty the bleach water and THOROUGHLY rinse all parts with clean water and
you’re ready for a new cloning cycle. Remember…if you’re reusing the neoprene collars instead of
using new ones, they can be thrown in the bleach water and rinsed as well. Also be careful not to wear
any nice clothes as the bleach water may stain them.
I hope this helps everyone who owns an EZ-CLONE and THANK YOU again for your business and
support. KEEP GROWIN!!!
Hope you get it sorted with or without the dome, its whatever works best in the long run best of luck
long as your cuts are taken healthy, the mother is of a sufficient age at least 60 days, you will be fine. That water should make your stems ridgid. Ive run cloner 10 on 5 off or 30 on 15 offf or just on. If you run the pump all the time, you will increase the water temps. This is why I run a cycle timer. Many people just plug it in and never shut it off. to each his own on that.
def change that rez once per week-should see roots in10-14 with full lush roots in 21-28 days. Not all strains root as well as others-some can be stubborn.
Hope you get it sorted with or without the dome, its whatever works best in the long run best of luck
24 hours later, and they are all perky, even with humidity, hitting 45%! My mind is blown.
Thanks, this is pure gold! Straight from the horses mouth! Was nice to read a detailed in-depth instruction guide. thanks diggin
Im seeing RES temps maybe 1F warmer than room temp. If the pump wasn't running at all, then would RES temp be equal to room temp? Or if below, how much? What Im getting at is I have considered an intermittent timer, but how much would I be able to bring temps down. Right now its in the 68-73 range, and I think I should be ok there. But In summer time, It might get hotter and then I might look at getting a chiller.
