What's new

First Grow, Leaf Tips Curling

A

axel neek

Those leaves looked fine, fine enough to leave on at least. What was happening there was the plant was cannibalizing itself. It's not getting enough of the right nutrients so it transfers what it needs from it's old growth to it's new growth. You should have left the leaves on because now it may start taking what it needs from the next oldest leaves.

You said you're using RO water with GH bloom and ph up. First thing you'll need to add additional calmag. GH bloom isn't made for RO water.
Do you have a water softener? Why aren't you using tap water? Tap water contains many micronutrients that probably aren't included in many 'all-in-one' ferts.
 

hazy

Active member
Veteran
I'll only pull those leaves off if they break off easily when I give them a tug. The reason your leaves are looking like that is you cut off the micro. Which is fine if your plant's close to finishing. Which I bet yours is. Your plant looks great imo.
Oh, please don't pull that baby out of that pot this close to the end, to check the roots??! huh?. What a time to fuck it all up with a slip up.
Water every day, keep doing what your doing.
 

daihashi

Member
Are you serious? Maybe you need to go back to the post and look at the BOLD writing in the Quote. All of your answers were there my friend ;)

Anyways, moving on.... Today I just took out the baby to water her and I noticed the fan leaves are MUCH more yellow than they were yesterday. The buds and the leaves on the bud stalk look dark and green still, but the fan leaves look alot different than yesterday. Also there was a freaking GNAT IN MY TENT! I dont know how that bastard got in there but there was only one.

Anyways, new pics of the fan leaves are below. Where can I buy a ph pen... like tomorrow.

Sorry when I see my name in quoted I assume everything in that block is what I said.. no need to re-read what I already typed. I assumed people knew how to end quotes.. reply to the question and begin the quote again.

It's a pain in the ass to reply to because of this.. give me a second while I reply to you and point out some problems.

Typically that's how it's done.. :p but I see your answers now
 

daihashi

Member

Here are some questions for you:

1. Do you water with Nutrients at every watering or do you use plain water in between feedings?

Yes I water with nutrients every feeding. Here is what I do: I buy RO water, pour a tiny bit out, measure out 9 ml of bloom, add the bloom to the gallon and shake it, pour a tiny bit of PH UP into the gallon because I know that it will naturally be at a low PH after adding the bloom, Shake it up again and pour a tiny bit into the little vial and then drop 3 ph indicator drops into it. If it is the yellow color that I am used to seeing I then water my plant with it and put the gallon away until tomorrow's feeding.
Weird, For some reason it keeps forcing italics even though they aren't on.. anyway. How do you buy RO water? While it's entirely possible to buy specifically RO water... I have not seen it in the store. Does the gallon jug you buy say specifically RO water or does it say Distilled, Drinking, Spring?

Technically RO water is none of the gallon jugs of water you can buy at the store. Drinking water has sodium in it for taste. Spring water can also have sodium but it's considered safe to use (I personally wouldn't just because I like knowing what specifically is in the water). You don't want to water your plants with any of these except distilled preferably. If you are buying actual RO water then that's pretty cool, I wish somewhere around here sold it but they'd probably charge an arm or a leg.

2. Have you measured your run off PH? If so what is it? It's possible that you have some trace lockout due to being in the incorrect PH area. You mentioned that you try to stay as close to 6.0 as you can. I use the PH color kits as a back up; nothing beats a PH pen that can tell you within a tenth what your PH is.
I have never measured my run-off's PH. I think its time to stop being inaccurate and sloppy and just go buy a pen so I can tell what my ph is exactly. This way I can keep the ph and a constant level every day and not worry about whether it is fluctuating.
That is pretty important and one of the most basic methods that you should know for troubleshooting plants. Measure your runoff PH. Technically Coco is good from like 5.2 - 6.5... really you want it to come out at about 5.8-6.1 with 5.9-6.0 being preferred.

PH is something that should always be checked when you see indication of Lockout or nutrient deficiency

3. You said you use a sprayer to spray down your plant filled with RO water. Why are you doing this? Also you mentioned bottled water later in the thread. Are you using RO water or bottled water.. and if you're using bottled water is it distilled, drinking or spring water?

To tell you the truth, I really don't know why I decided to spray the plant down... I think that its possibly because I figured that in nature, plants usually get rained on, and also I was hoping to keep it cooler in the tent but yeah, I think its not a great idea. Ill stop. Also it was Spring water that I was using, not RO water.
It's not bad but there's no need for it really. Water droplets can also act as a magnifier glass and create burns on your plant and stress your plant a bit. It's not something horrible but there's no need for it really and you create things that look like possible "symptoms" of something else.

4. Do you water the plant with straight RO water with the 6/9 H3ad formula or do you add a cal/mag supplement as well?

I water my plant with RO water, yes. Just as I listed above. No supps are added. Just bloom and ph up.
Are you using Florabloom alone or do you use micro as well (you said you did in your first post but I just want to clarify which it is)? If you're using just Florabloom then you really need to use the Micro at least in the beginning of your grow. Bloom contains P,K and Mg (sulfur as well) the micro contains N (not really important) and Ca... Ca can not be absorbed without Mg.. and Mg cannot be absorbed without Ca. It's the same in humans also.

If you've used micro regularly at some point then you may be fine because your cations will be loaded with Ca and Mg... but if you havent then you may be deficient in that especially since coco is so Ca/Mg demanding.

If you are using the micro along with the bloom then ignore this since it doesn't apply.
 

daihashi

Member
For everyone who says his plants look like nothings wrong.. you're kind of right.. his plants look fairly healthy but it does have some symptoms such as tip burn, leaf tips curling down. That's just how it starts then eventually you start getting claw and what looks to be Ca/mG deficiency (rust spotting) and then you get yellow blotching or what appears to be N deficiency in the middle of your plant to the top of your plant.. and it's a multitude of other lockouts from there.

Check your PH as soon as you can even if it's just with the drop kit. It will either be PH or because you cut the micro (plant using up nutes).

PS: your plants do look pretty healthy so if it's a PH problem you're probably just slightly out of range. And even then you could probably finish your grow fine this late in the game even if you chose to not correct it (if there was a problem). If this problem started happening after you cut the micro then more than likely that's the culprit. If you noticed the problem before you cut the micro then definitely do check the PH.
 

daihashi

Member
btw I see you have hydroton on top of your medium..

This is fine but just some info that you may already know (or maybe you don't know this which is good info to have). Hydroton needs to be washed very well and then soaked in PH water before use. In hydro where I'm using a new bag of hydroton I will let it soak for a week. I use a large garbage can with a drain at the bottom of it to do this. I load the garbage can with water, ph adjust it and then add the hydroton. I don't bubble it but I agitate it once a day for about 2-3 minutes. If I see the PH has risen dramatically then I drain it by pulling the plug at the bottom and make fresh PH'd water in a 5 gallon bucket and start filling up the garbage can.

This can obviously be done on a smaller scale using a 5 gallon bucket instead of a garbage can.

Hydroton can cause PH issues if it has not been pretreated. Similar to how rockwool creates PH issues unless treated.
 

daihashi

Member
What a time to fuck it all up with a slip up.
Water every day, keep doing what your doing.

Yeah that was a stoner mistake.. for some reason when I wrote that post I was stoned and had it in my head that his plant was still in veg. My bad :fsu:
 
G

Guest 18340

Dude, do not cut off those leaves! Your plant is fine, perfect in fact. It is using stored nutrients, which is normal at the stage of flower it's in. Carry on what you've been doing and don't strees, your plants are acting normal. By the time the plant is ready for chop most of the leaves will look bright yellow.

Schnazzleberyy#2 45 days into flower and (last years)Mango/widow 'bout 40 days in. Peace, Evl
 

Attachments

  • 101_3649.jpg
    101_3649.jpg
    148.8 KB · Views: 13
listen to HAZY, for I agree with what he has to say

also not a big deal....so you cut the bottom fan leaves because you thought they were dying?
this is a perfectly understandable rookie mistake to be honest
HOWEVER, in your next grow, KNOW that in the last weeks of flower, especially since you cut the micro(NITROGEN, SHIT THAT MAKES THE LEAVES GREEN) you will get yellowing as a result. the reason it wasnt a good idea to cut those leaves, is because you can still see green on them, which means more nutes were still available for the plant to eat out of those leaves. however, once again.....noooooo big deal....

also you said something to the effect of "yea i think it needs more water, but that also means more nutes" which i suppose made you weary of wanting to add more water???

haha, to fix this problem, all you havto do is reduce your concentration of nutrients within your solution....meaning...whatever amount your putting in 1 gal of water....cut it in half!....you dont want to be feeding them full strength at this stage anyways.....

and post some more pics!

oh and one last thing...get a fucking pH pen, on ebay they have digital pens for 24.95....thats what i use! it looks like you have a good establishment on this hobby, so get a pen!
 

2lungs1hit

New member
so wait, buddin I should reduce the nutes im giving it? I only have about 19 days left.

But today it was even more yellow with some brown spots actually. Also growth has seemed to stall out a bit. The plant probably only has about a quarter of bud on it. Weak shit if you ask me, but it was a fun experience I guess.
 
ummm...post pics please...this can give us a better idea of what % of flowering has actually been completed.....NEVER EVER listen to the "supposed" flowering length time....in 99% of the time, your going to need more days. therefore, you say u have 19 days left. 19 days left of what, the difference between when u flipped the lights to the "supposed" date of finish? this cant be trusted.

perhaps, you stopped using your micro too early. this is a problem that is un-fixable since the damage is already being done. but however, if you grow the same strain again, you know to wait a little longer next time, then cut the micro. this type of problem can only be found out through successive grows of the same strain.

pics pics pics, are really the only way for us to tell u to cut nutes, reduce nutes, flush or what not. the pics give us a perfect indication of bud maturity, saying it has 19 days left is essentially meaningless.....do you see what i mean?
 

2lungs1hit

New member
I stopped giving the plant the bloom 2 days ago and started giving it just spring water with the ph adjusted. The yellowing was getting really bad and one of the fan leaves came off with a gentle touch. The other bottom fan leaf came off today with a gentle pull as well.

I added a tsp of blackstrap molasses syrup to the water today, so we will see how she likes that. She is starting to look really nice today. I feel like it grew alot over night. THC is coming in nicely even on the bottom tiny buds. The bottom colas are also stretching out further to get more light and are starting to fatten up as well.

I noticed the very top leaves on the bud are starting to turn purple..

I guess it really is purple lady. Smell is pretty strong but yummy. How much longer would you say I have left?
 

Attachments

  • Flower day 46 -1.jpg
    Flower day 46 -1.jpg
    53.3 KB · Views: 9
  • Flower day 46 -2.jpg
    Flower day 46 -2.jpg
    76.2 KB · Views: 8
  • Flower day 46 -3.jpg
    Flower day 46 -3.jpg
    67.5 KB · Views: 11
  • Flower day 46 -4.jpg
    Flower day 46 -4.jpg
    65.3 KB · Views: 10
the plant looks really good 2lungs! it for the most part looks how it should at this stage. you want! yellowing fan leaves which is good, and u can see the bud leaves are still nice and green so its still got some nutes to pull from it self.....my recommendations from the pic are that you need more cal/mag....which is what molasses contains.....it looks as if you are getting rusting on the upper leaves which is indicative of cal/mag deficiencies. you said u added 1 tsp of blackstrap, nice job, but my ? is how much water did u add it to???? a good rule of thumb is to go by gallons, like 1 tsp / per gal. dont be afraid to add 2 or even 3 tsp per gal of molasses at this stage, especially considering this is the only way your plant can get these micronutes, since you cut your micro formula. this should stop the rusting in its tracks, and also allow your bud to fatten up and bit and finally finish off!!!

dont worry about those yellow leaves, youll learn that this is a good thing to have them eat themselves at late flower.

overall nice work dude, keep it up and keep posting on this baby
 
oh and how long do u have...hmm such a tough question....i dont really have an answer for that....the only advice i have on that subject is dont let lack of patience to let her finish get in the way, this makes the difference between a buzz and a BLAAAZZED. letting her go a couple days after when you think shes ready is probably the best way to go about it.
 

2lungs1hit

New member
Yes turd day

Yes turd day

These pics were taken yesterday. I have been feeding her molasses for 3 days now with RO drinking water from Wal-Mart. She is starting to stink really dank now and there is a large amount of long thc strands forming around the buds. The bottom buds are still small, probably .8 each but they are starting to bend out towards the light. I can see that this bending is having a positive effect on their size and thc content.

Anyways the next set of fan leaves looked like shit yesterday and i tried to give them a gentle pull but they stayed on. I wasn't sure if I should cut them off as they were almost completely yellow with nasty looking tips but I left them on because I wasn't sure. Hopefully they will come off nicely today, but if they don't should I cut them off?

Should I go to day 65? I mean how will I know when its done? I know you don't have a specific time, but how will i "know". Thanks for all your help buddin!
 

Attachments

  • P1010002.jpg
    P1010002.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 11
  • P1010007.jpg
    P1010007.jpg
    65.9 KB · Views: 9

daihashi

Member
Should I go to day 65? I mean how will I know when its done? I know you don't have a specific time, but how will i "know". Thanks for all your help buddin!

Look at the trichs under a hand held microscope. Most people like to harvest between 10-20% amber and the rest milky.
 

greenatik

Member
i like to harvest differently than trichs... I wait until the hairs start to turn over and 'suck' back into the bud. when they start to do that I know theres a week left max

gl with the harvest and enjoy!
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top