First Coco grow with PH perfect
- Thread starter Jydcoo
- Start date
Just a heads up don't mix brands with PH perfect. PH perfect range use a chelating agent (Amino acids) in their nutrients to achieve the "PH perfect" technology. If you mix other brands with AN PH perfect the amino acids can attach to the other branded nutrients and make them more available to the plant.
Other nutrient brands may use lower quality raw ingredients and have not taken the amino acids into consideration and will cause you problems.
Please be aware of this when adding Ca/Mg because these are elements targeted by AN for chelation.
PS: What PH are you actually running ? You plants look a little stressed. And AN's PH perfect range isn't so PH perfect in my experience
Not to mention they change there product description all the time. Youtube PH perfect technology the old videos explain it as having a PH agent that adjusts the PH for you, it doesn't.PPS: AN PH Perfect REQUIRES you to use RO water. I think this is because again of it's complex composition it will make the elements in your tap water more available to your plants and throw your mix out further. Is this the truth ? Sounds viable but I do not know. I do know I have 350ppm of calcium from the tap before I even start and AN don't gel with our water what so ever. I work for a busy hydro shop and we sell little to none locally but lots online for this reason.
Good luck,
Ty for the Imput Brotha. Made me think a little. Yesterday I Noticed something is definitely stressed so I flushed With 2 Gallons Of RO water PH'd at 5.8, 0 ppm of course. I then Gave Her About 1.5 Gallons of 710 PPM. A + B, And some Voodoo Juice. Next Watering I will Up it to About 850-1000? Throwing in B-52. I am sure the Stress she had from a seedling has been Fixed, but there is Def Something Going on with the Green Color Fading away near the Veins. I am Not going to Mix cal - mag ( Botanicare) again because I think something was locked out. The Flush Yesterday and Good Feed hopefully makes her Thrive. Should I feed More Often? I am feeding 2-3 Days Now. I want to Feed Again tomorrow to be honest. My NL Blue is Having No Probs. More to come Soon!
Temp 80-88. I know. Way wide ranges I have to work with The situation I am in folks. humidity is 40-50%. Ty for the Input
Temp 80-88. I know. Way wide ranges
I have to work with The situation I am in folks. humidity is 40-50%. Ty for the Input
Just a heads up don't mix brands with PH perfect. PH perfect range use a chelating agent (Amino acids) in their nutrients to achieve the "PH perfect" technology. If you mix other brands with AN PH perfect the amino acids can attach to the other branded nutrients and make them more available to the plant.
Other nutrient brands may use lower quality raw ingredients and have not taken the amino acids into consideration and will cause you problems.
Please be aware of this when adding Ca/Mg because these are elements targeted by AN for chelation.
PS: What PH are you actually running ? You plants look a little stressed. And AN's PH perfect range isn't so PH perfect in my experience
PPS: AN PH Perfect REQUIRES you to use RO water. I think this is because again of it's complex composition it will make the elements in your tap water more available to your plants and throw your mix out further. Is this the truth ? Sounds viable but I do not know. I do know I have 350ppm of calcium from the tap before I even start and AN don't gel with our water what so ever. I work for a busy hydro shop and we sell little to none locally but lots online for this reason.
Good luck,
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I have been using Advanced Nutes in coco for a while now. I use sensi A & B, b-52, big bud, bud candy, sensizyme and some heavy 16 products like fire and prime. Mix it up the plants are the only ones to tell you something is wrong. I also flush the last 14 days of flower. Yes silica will raise ph
dabking
Member
Just a heads up don't mix brands with PH perfect. PH perfect range use a chelating agent (Amino acids) in their nutrients to achieve the "PH perfect" technology. If you mix other brands with AN PH perfect the amino acids can attach to the other branded nutrients and make them more available to the plant.
Other nutrient brands may use lower quality raw ingredients and have not taken the amino acids into consideration and will cause you problems.
Please be aware of this when adding Ca/Mg because these are elements targeted by AN for chelation.
PS: What PH are you actually running ? You plants look a little stressed. And AN's PH perfect range isn't so PH perfect in my experience
PPS: AN PH Perfect REQUIRES you to use RO water. I think this is because again of it's complex composition it will make the elements in your tap water more available to your plants and throw your mix out further. Is this the truth ? Sounds viable but I do not know. I do know I have 350ppm of calcium from the tap before I even start and AN don't gel with our water what so ever. I work for a busy hydro shop and we sell little to none locally but lots online for this reason.
Good luck,
Have you read the ph perfect manifesto? Cause I have and what makes ph perfect isn't amino acids. They chelate to a wider ph range allowing you to no have to adjust your ph. Also not being able to mix brands is a marketing gimic so you'll only use their products. When I ran advanced I had my best results using multiple brand additives. Some brands may not mix.
I would only use the entire AN line if I wanted to waste money and fry my plants.
Unlike many others, I couldn't care less about what bottles you use or what you pay to accomplish this job.
What I do see is a very, very small plant receiving higher ppms than it needs. You are over feeding and that's why the plant looks ill. It was not "lockout" from using the cal-mag plus. Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Sulfate, and Iron EDTA are compatible. Add 2ml/gallon to some RO water to establish a little hardness and stability to the water before adding your nutrient program and you'll have no problems. A 0.8ec is perfectly fine for young plants in coco (400ppm on a 0.5 scale or 560ppm on a 0.7 scale) and right now you're running somewhere between a 1.0ec to a 1.42ec depending on your meter. When the plants need more elements they will let you know, until then just keep it mellow and make sure you're solution is in balance with the plants needs.
Plants are not animals, and "plant food" is not food at all. It's more like vitamins. Eating 10 Centrum Multi's doesn't make you any bigger or stronger. It just kills you. Or your plants in this case. Plant food in the way animals use food is Carbon Dioxide and Photons. Plant poop is Starch (carbohydrates) and Oxygen. Plants take in the light and CO2, using it to fuel their chlorophyll and create energy. Carbon is also used to build plant cells, so the more carbon present the more energy the plant can make (as long as it is in balance with the light available), growing more rapidly and larger in a given time frame. The nutrients we provide compliment the CO2 and light the plant is receiving, each of which needing to be in balance with the other to maintain healthy growth.
5ml/gallon on the A+B, 5ml/gallon on the B-52, and 5ml/gallon on the Voodoo Juice is fine right now. Just get 20-30% runoff at each feeding and this will repair the cation exhange in the media. Flushing with plain water in coco is not advised. Always use some nutrient solution with a good ratio of elements, even at a low level, when you're trying to course correct. Flushing is reserved for harvest. Rinsing with a balanced light solution is the right way to get your plants back on track and make an unhealthy media hospitable again.
88f and 40% humidity is REALLY bad news for seedlings. Those weak and immature root systems are working their asses off pulling in what little water they can get in them to stay cool. The leafs themselves are sweating to keep the little photosynthetic energy factories from "melting down." What you are working with is known as Vapor Pressure Deficit, and your room is not healthy. Particularly for this time of life. A 78f and 65% RH would be HUGE for your plants, allowing them to spend what little energy they have on generating new growth and not spent trying to keep cool.
Best of luck.
What I do see is a very, very small plant receiving higher ppms than it needs. You are over feeding and that's why the plant looks ill. It was not "lockout" from using the cal-mag plus. Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Sulfate, and Iron EDTA are compatible. Add 2ml/gallon to some RO water to establish a little hardness and stability to the water before adding your nutrient program and you'll have no problems. A 0.8ec is perfectly fine for young plants in coco (400ppm on a 0.5 scale or 560ppm on a 0.7 scale) and right now you're running somewhere between a 1.0ec to a 1.42ec depending on your meter. When the plants need more elements they will let you know, until then just keep it mellow and make sure you're solution is in balance with the plants needs.
Plants are not animals, and "plant food" is not food at all. It's more like vitamins. Eating 10 Centrum Multi's doesn't make you any bigger or stronger. It just kills you. Or your plants in this case. Plant food in the way animals use food is Carbon Dioxide and Photons. Plant poop is Starch (carbohydrates) and Oxygen. Plants take in the light and CO2, using it to fuel their chlorophyll and create energy. Carbon is also used to build plant cells, so the more carbon present the more energy the plant can make (as long as it is in balance with the light available), growing more rapidly and larger in a given time frame. The nutrients we provide compliment the CO2 and light the plant is receiving, each of which needing to be in balance with the other to maintain healthy growth.
5ml/gallon on the A+B, 5ml/gallon on the B-52, and 5ml/gallon on the Voodoo Juice is fine right now. Just get 20-30% runoff at each feeding and this will repair the cation exhange in the media. Flushing with plain water in coco is not advised. Always use some nutrient solution with a good ratio of elements, even at a low level, when you're trying to course correct. Flushing is reserved for harvest. Rinsing with a balanced light solution is the right way to get your plants back on track and make an unhealthy media hospitable again.
88f and 40% humidity is REALLY bad news for seedlings. Those weak and immature root systems are working their asses off pulling in what little water they can get in them to stay cool. The leafs themselves are sweating to keep the little photosynthetic energy factories from "melting down." What you are working with is known as Vapor Pressure Deficit, and your room is not healthy. Particularly for this time of life. A 78f and 65% RH would be HUGE for your plants, allowing them to spend what little energy they have on generating new growth and not spent trying to keep cool.
Best of luck.
Ty Brotha. Awesome Advice. I will Lower the PPMs and water more often
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chelation
An rep told me it was amino acids and not EDTA but looks like it is
dirty bastards!! So it's a synthetic amino acid. It's hard to decipher An description for Sensi bloom
But the manifest suggests EDTA?
EDTA being synthetic doesn't break down easy. Also there's no special recipie you just mix the stuff in.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/EDTA
http://scienceinhydroponics.com/201...ates-improving-your-hydroponic-nutrients.html
https://www.icmag.com/modules/Tutorials/NutrientFormsulations/1717.htm
All I know is all of the above seems to be in AN. They change the descriptions & drop components from there range (in uk) on a monthly basis and it WILL play with other brands!! Hope this explains more.
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Howdy! Ok So I am on top these two Bizznatches like White on rice and I am Hoping My Love shows. I watered the Black Diesel yesterday With a lower dose of Nutes 540 PPM ( 5 ML of A+ B, 5 ML Voodoo Juice, 5ML of B-52). One Thing that sucked was the PH was at 6.4.....I adjusted Because I do what I want! Gave it a GOOD water. I think I got 30% Runoff. Fresh RO water and all so not sure why it was not PH Perfect. No METER at the moment, using the drops. I know, i know. I am getting the Meter Next week. BD looks like she is Gonna Bounce Back, but still some slight discoloration on her True MJ leaves. Any Ideas what it is?
All stems are Green.
I watered my Northern lights Blue with 410 PPM. No B-52 till next feed for her. She looks AMAZING. Gave her a A Good watering. Only 10% Runoff for her. I got the Temps down to 75-84 Through most of the day. I get some Spikes at 88-90 Sometimes If the AC is cut off.
Humidity is 48 - 55%.
More to Come soon. Hope the Recent Updates gain some new folks to Throw Advice. Appreciating all of it from you guys.
Bless
All stems are Green.
I watered my Northern lights Blue with 410 PPM. No B-52 till next feed for her. She looks AMAZING. Gave her a A Good watering. Only 10% Runoff for her. I got the Temps down to 75-84 Through most of the day. I get some Spikes at 88-90 Sometimes If the AC is cut off.
Humidity is 48 - 55%.
More to Come soon. Hope the Recent Updates gain some new folks to Throw Advice. Appreciating all of it from you guys.
Bless
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dabking
Member
you are misunderstanding of the way ph perfect works. With ro water and advanced ph perfect doesn't mean the solution will be 5.8-6.0 the elements are chelated to be more available in a wider ph range. So if anything adjust your water before mixing. Also the concentrations will also change your reading. But it shouldn't be too drastic. Its designed for lazy farmers. Lol.
Nah. PH perfect was designed to make the PH correct regardless of your starting PH. This is a fairly long and boring video, but it shows them mixing the full like in 3 diff PH's of water, and at the end they are all the same 5.8.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjGMysy2RKY
And to Jydcoo, your ph was off because you didnt do a full feeding. For that product you are actually supposed to follow the bottle, contrary to common belief.
It was designed that way. If you dont follow the bottle with the PH perfect line, you wont have good results.
Once again the Grow Community Helps out. I fed today and went up a Lil but not a full feed and noticed the PH was Perfect... I even threw in some Sensizym at a very Low dosage. I think they chelated the Nutes so they are available at a wider range due to Coco's Medium but They also made it PH Perfect to allow Maximum Uptake. The Wide range is so when Coco Buffers it, the Nutes are still available. Only thing that makes sense to me. It was again PH Perfect this morning when I fed 9/ml for 1.5 Gallons. ( A low dose but enough of A+B to Make that PH perfect Magic work). I threw in My additives and PH was steady still.
Update. So things Are Looking Quite Swell. I Have No Complaints. My Big Lady BD had minor Brownish Rust Spots on her lower leaves I noticed About a Week or so ago, which I just diagnosed was a Cal-Mag or some lockout to It. The Recent Well Waterings W/ RO water And A 150-200 ppm of Cal-Mag plus has showed me Happiness. DabKing, My Brotha , you were Super right in saying I did not feed Enough before. In return for not feeding enough of the AN PH Perfect Sensi coco A+B, not enough So My BD did not Thrive. Now she is On a Rolll. I am Feeding 3 Times a Week at 600 PPMs and i think she wants More. I am upping it to 750-800 Next watering. Usual Line-up as stated, I Believe that Sensizym and Root Juice In Small doses during Veg is going to Give me Great Results. 5 ML of each For 5 Liters Of Water. Happy Toking.
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I must have missed that part? DabKing? 600ppm isn't enough
I'll go out on the limb and armchair quarterback this... 600ppm is plenty. Stay the course until she shows you she wants more, plant's need a surprisingly small amount of nutrition. Most of what they need depends more on their environment. Without a lot of light and CO2 in there I don't see how a small plant like that would need as much nutrition as my own plants do 5 weeks into flowering (750ppm).
