V
vonforne
FF Ocean Forest
Big and Chunky perlite
Dolomite lime @1tbl spoon/gal.
FF Peace of Mind guano with Mycorrhizea and Humic acid
7-4-5 @1tbl spoon/gal Tomato and Vegetable
5-8-4 @2tbl spoon/gal Fruit and Flower
and water in with FF Grow big and Big bloom @ 1/4 dose
Big and Chunky perlite
Dolomite lime @1tbl spoon/gal.
FF Peace of Mind guano with Mycorrhizea and Humic acid
7-4-5 @1tbl spoon/gal Tomato and Vegetable
5-8-4 @2tbl spoon/gal Fruit and Flower
and water in with FF Grow big and Big bloom @ 1/4 dose
G
Guest
mr soul mixHi everyone ....I'm a second time grower and I'm growing in soil and I've done a lot of research and finally came up with a list of ingredients I wanted to use for a tea, then I found the same list as a version of Mr. Soul's mix and the amounts to use. The mix I'm using is:
Veg mix~
1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (PSG)
1/3 cup High N Bat Guano (Mexican)
1/3 cup Earth Worm Castings (EWC)
5 tsp. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
5 tbs. Liquid Karma
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
@ 1-cup mix/5 gallons of water every 3rd watering.
Flowering nute tea mix:~
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
5 tbs. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
@ 2 cups/5 gallons of water EVERY watering.
Veg mix~
1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (PSG)
1/3 cup High N Bat Guano (Mexican)
1/3 cup Earth Worm Castings (EWC)
5 tsp. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
5 tbs. Liquid Karma
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
@ 1-cup mix/5 gallons of water every 3rd watering.
Flowering nute tea mix:~
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
5 tbs. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
@ 2 cups/5 gallons of water EVERY watering.
V
vonforne
TML16 said:
BUMP good point bro. and if anyone eats produce from Mexico ar any other South American country, stop and ask yourself if the little farmer can afford expensive ferts for his produce you are eating.
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No offense but this quote is proof that the bottle pushers have you guys brainwashed and by the balls.
First of the basis of organics is composts and teas, even the great Kyle Kushman made something called "double coverage" rather popular in past issues of High Times, back when it was worth reading on AND off the crapper.
It's actually a fundamental part of organic gardening because the best things you can add to your soil are in solid form and hard to get dissolved, i'm thinking of dolomite lime (Ca and Mg), meals like kelp, blood and bone meal, shrimp compost, alfalfa meal, I can go on.
Do you know any cheap widely available and SOLUBLE organic sources of Ca anf Mg as well as a ph buffer?
Teas are great and definately are a symbiotic half of organic gardening but the soil is the true foundation and what's more there are lots of diff. items to mix and tailor and make your own.
The difference is that if the plants need something it's already there, constantly availble to the microbes to munch on and fertilize the soil with so slowly as the rootmass and thus the microbe population grows there is a fertilizer boost that is proprtional to the growth of the plant, the microbes take care of it on their own while you can easily brew a tea that is too strong or too weak.
Just my .02$
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Oh and here's my simple recipe.'
Here is what I consider a base mix
60% peat based mix with added perlite (Pro-Mix HP,Sushine Mix,etc.)
30% perlite for proper drainage and oxygen to roots
10% worm castings, they provide some N, micros, and beneficial bacteria
To each gallon of this mix I add:
2 TBS/gal dolomite lime, provides a ph buffer around 7
1 TBS/gal blood meal for N
2 TBS/gal bone mean for P (flowering mix only)
1 TBS/gal kelp meal or ground seaweed for K and trace elements
The most important step is now to compost your soil mix for 2 weeks before using it, you want to wet the mix to create an environment where the beneficials in the soil start munching on the soil elements and creating a stable environment with some nutes ready to go for a well rooted clone.\
Burn1 taught me to wet my mix with LiquidKarma at 1TBS/gallon of water, you may also make your own using the following per gallon of water:
1TBS black strap molasses
it feeds the bacteria like candy and keeps them in high number in your soil, plus in contains micros
1TBS Humic and/or fulvic acids
these are an integral part of an organic food web and already occurs in the peat and worm catings, it's the result of decomposition and acts as a soil buffer
You should wet the mix until you cab barely squeeze a few drops from a fistfull of soil mix.
Let this sit 2 weeks loosely covered, stir it up to keep the mix full of oxygen.
Good bacteria need oxygen (aerobic) , bad bacteria do not (anaerobic).
At some point in veg you might need to use an organic fertilizer high in N or high N bat guano in a tea , this will depend in how long or how big you veg your plants.
About halfway through flowering you will need some additional nutes, a small boost of N with a healthy boost of P and K is good, a tea of high P guano and liquid seaweed is a good flowering mix.
Peace
Here is what I consider a base mix
60% peat based mix with added perlite (Pro-Mix HP,Sushine Mix,etc.)
30% perlite for proper drainage and oxygen to roots
10% worm castings, they provide some N, micros, and beneficial bacteria
To each gallon of this mix I add:
2 TBS/gal dolomite lime, provides a ph buffer around 7
1 TBS/gal blood meal for N
2 TBS/gal bone mean for P (flowering mix only)
1 TBS/gal kelp meal or ground seaweed for K and trace elements
The most important step is now to compost your soil mix for 2 weeks before using it, you want to wet the mix to create an environment where the beneficials in the soil start munching on the soil elements and creating a stable environment with some nutes ready to go for a well rooted clone.\
Burn1 taught me to wet my mix with LiquidKarma at 1TBS/gallon of water, you may also make your own using the following per gallon of water:
1TBS black strap molasses
it feeds the bacteria like candy and keeps them in high number in your soil, plus in contains micros
1TBS Humic and/or fulvic acids
these are an integral part of an organic food web and already occurs in the peat and worm catings, it's the result of decomposition and acts as a soil buffer
You should wet the mix until you cab barely squeeze a few drops from a fistfull of soil mix.
Let this sit 2 weeks loosely covered, stir it up to keep the mix full of oxygen.
Good bacteria need oxygen (aerobic) , bad bacteria do not (anaerobic).
At some point in veg you might need to use an organic fertilizer high in N or high N bat guano in a tea , this will depend in how long or how big you veg your plants.
About halfway through flowering you will need some additional nutes, a small boost of N with a healthy boost of P and K is good, a tea of high P guano and liquid seaweed is a good flowering mix.
Peace
hunterwoundedft
Active member
if u don't mind
if u don't mind
i would like give my soiless mix.
40% coir fiber. 10% worm castings, 30% perlite, 10% hydroton, 10% silicon rock. this mix is as close tosoil as can be and still be soiless hydroponics. i water this mix 1x a day or even every other day. each media has its own reason for adding it. the silica rock is to add stength to the plants by producing strong stems and leaves. in turn making it harder for pathogens and pests to attack ur crop. worm castings for bacilias subtilis and other bacteria root enhancers. coir fiber for moisture retention and a good place for benificial bacteria and fungus to live, perlite and hydroton to increase the oxygen levels of the media creating the perfect mosture and air ratios.
if u don't mind
i would like give my soiless mix.
40% coir fiber. 10% worm castings, 30% perlite, 10% hydroton, 10% silicon rock. this mix is as close tosoil as can be and still be soiless hydroponics. i water this mix 1x a day or even every other day. each media has its own reason for adding it. the silica rock is to add stength to the plants by producing strong stems and leaves. in turn making it harder for pathogens and pests to attack ur crop. worm castings for bacilias subtilis and other bacteria root enhancers. coir fiber for moisture retention and a good place for benificial bacteria and fungus to live, perlite and hydroton to increase the oxygen levels of the media creating the perfect mosture and air ratios.
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G
Guest
Anybody know off hand what Ocean Forest is supposed to be ph'd to? I see lots of folks adding Lime to it, but the best results I've ever had came straight out of Ocean Forest with Fruit and Flower dry formulae added - 1 tblsp per gallon. Plain tap water the whole grow.
mysta177
Active member
Well I seen this mix in HT and had to try it. I gots to say it not for yield (no nutes) but the taste and quality of your bud is amazing.
"The mix is super simple...you can use it from seed to flower it just doesnt need the dry ferts (peace of mind) early on.....Watering is the Key to this mix...overwater and youll see all sorts of weird "nute def" poppin up....let it dry completely and the probs disappear......the Current mix goes a lil sumthin like this...
(bag of each)
Ocean Forest
Planting Mix (guano/castings)
Light Warrior
Black Gold
Coco Brick(small brick)
1 cup peace of mind (for flower)
2- 5 gal buckets worth of perilite....
And the LARGE Chunky Perilite...RULES....small perilite packs down over time ...the large perilite creates huge air pockets for the roots to grow through....over the last 3 yrs anytime I have gone back to the small diameter perilite my plants SUFFER and yeilds diminish.....You have to try the stuff to understand and even then you may not comprehend (like me) the benefits the large core peri makes.....great stuff....
Romulator has been usin my mix for a couple of yrs now and he is like me always tinkering and tweakin the mix...but in the end its the core 3 bag fox farm mix that makes this shit work....
my only "additives" Id tell anyone to try would be "Fish Mix" from biobizz for a lil boost in veg and Advanced Nutes "Moter Earth Super Tea" for a lil boost on day 25-30 for LARGE plants ......But honestly the mix dont need nuthin...." Moonshine
Here is a pic of my super sour grow in this mix~
"The mix is super simple...you can use it from seed to flower it just doesnt need the dry ferts (peace of mind) early on.....Watering is the Key to this mix...overwater and youll see all sorts of weird "nute def" poppin up....let it dry completely and the probs disappear......the Current mix goes a lil sumthin like this...
(bag of each)
Ocean Forest
Planting Mix (guano/castings)
Light Warrior
Black Gold
Coco Brick(small brick)
1 cup peace of mind (for flower)
2- 5 gal buckets worth of perilite....
And the LARGE Chunky Perilite...RULES....small perilite packs down over time ...the large perilite creates huge air pockets for the roots to grow through....over the last 3 yrs anytime I have gone back to the small diameter perilite my plants SUFFER and yeilds diminish.....You have to try the stuff to understand and even then you may not comprehend (like me) the benefits the large core peri makes.....great stuff....
Romulator has been usin my mix for a couple of yrs now and he is like me always tinkering and tweakin the mix...but in the end its the core 3 bag fox farm mix that makes this shit work....
my only "additives" Id tell anyone to try would be "Fish Mix" from biobizz for a lil boost in veg and Advanced Nutes "Moter Earth Super Tea" for a lil boost on day 25-30 for LARGE plants ......But honestly the mix dont need nuthin...." Moonshine
Here is a pic of my super sour grow in this mix~
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Organic Mix !
Organic Mix !
Hi All ! I'm doing a test of various soil mixes using Ocean Forest,and
SuperSoil......
Test 1--8
1- Ocean Forest 100% no dry ferts mixed into soil-ph RO water 6.0 + Maxicrop seaweed liquid + Nitron soil conditioner/enzymes
2- Ocean Forest 100% + dry ferts + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
3- Ocean Forest 80% + Supersoil 20% no dry ferts + dolimite lime + water crystals + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
4-Ocean Forest 50% + SuperSoil 50% no dry ferts + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
5-Ocean Forest 50% + SuperSoil 50% + dry ferts + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
6-SuperSoil 100% no dry ferts + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
7-SuperSoil 100% + dry ferts + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
8-SuperSoil 80% + Ocean Forest 20% + dolimite lime + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
as of 11-18-06 til present, all are doing well except for numbers 1 & 3, but
numbers 6 & 7 have the best yield and overall health so far..... see
I have an old issue of HT magizine and SuperSoil was the #1 choice in soil
and as far as I'm concerned still is and cost $5/6 bucks for a 2 cu bag, the
new choice soil now costs $15+ for 1.5 cu bag, so I bought a bag for this test
and all mixes were prepared with the same amount of dry ferts each in 1 gal of soil each and 1 16oz cup of RO water ph 6.0 + seaweed + Nitron on each 1
gal soil....I took a standard coffee can and 3 level cans fill a 1 gal soil container, I mixed each individual gal of soil with the same amount of dry ferts
so they would have an even mix per container......
this is the first time I have mixed each gal of soil like this, and Boiiiiiiii this is a "GOOD MIX" !
Do yourself a favor and mix smaller batches of soil, instead of 1 big batch...
You know when your mom makes a batch of fresh hot cookies, and they cool down, then you eat some and they taste great, then you sometimes get that salty bite in your mouth, that's an example of the big batch mix, some containers have more or less ferts,and some of your plants look great and some have problems in the same batch of containers, so take extra time
in soil prep, and it will pay off in the long run..... Peace!!!!
Organic Mix !
Hi All ! I'm doing a test of various soil mixes using Ocean Forest,andSuperSoil......
Test 1--8
1- Ocean Forest 100% no dry ferts mixed into soil-ph RO water 6.0 + Maxicrop seaweed liquid + Nitron soil conditioner/enzymes
2- Ocean Forest 100% + dry ferts + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
3- Ocean Forest 80% + Supersoil 20% no dry ferts + dolimite lime + water crystals + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
4-Ocean Forest 50% + SuperSoil 50% no dry ferts + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
5-Ocean Forest 50% + SuperSoil 50% + dry ferts + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
6-SuperSoil 100% no dry ferts + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
7-SuperSoil 100% + dry ferts + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
8-SuperSoil 80% + Ocean Forest 20% + dolimite lime + Maxicrop + Nitron + RO water ph-6.0
as of 11-18-06 til present, all are doing well except for numbers 1 & 3, but
numbers 6 & 7 have the best yield and overall health so far..... see
I have an old issue of HT magizine and SuperSoil was the #1 choice in soil
and as far as I'm concerned still is and cost $5/6 bucks for a 2 cu bag, the
new choice soil now costs $15+ for 1.5 cu bag, so I bought a bag for this test
and all mixes were prepared with the same amount of dry ferts each in 1 gal of soil each and 1 16oz cup of RO water ph 6.0 + seaweed + Nitron on each 1
gal soil....I took a standard coffee can and 3 level cans fill a 1 gal soil container, I mixed each individual gal of soil with the same amount of dry ferts
so they would have an even mix per container......
this is the first time I have mixed each gal of soil like this, and Boiiiiiiii this is a "GOOD MIX" !Do yourself a favor and mix smaller batches of soil, instead of 1 big batch...
You know when your mom makes a batch of fresh hot cookies, and they cool down, then you eat some and they taste great, then you sometimes get that salty bite in your mouth, that's an example of the big batch mix, some containers have more or less ferts,and some of your plants look great and some have problems in the same batch of containers, so take extra time
in soil prep, and it will pay off in the long run.....
Peace!!!!
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dan woody said:
Excuse my ignorance, but i'm trying to learn here,
so I was just wondering, after you make a mix like this, what do you do to it? Just watering? Are there things you add as you go along? I guess I just really don't understand the idea behind organic as much as the whole add-nutes-as-you-go route. Thanks!
Hey koomba,
The basic difference is that solid nutrient sources in soil break down over time as bacteria feed on them, liquid organic nutrient sources are similar in that they need the microbes the feed on them to feed the plant however they are more quickly availble and often contain elements that the plant can absorb right away.
That being said if you have the right source of solid fetilizer for your soil you can just give it water and watch them grow, this mix does not have any nutrients in solid form in the mix, it is a base organic mix.
the perlite is for air pockets and porosity
the Pro Mix is your medium or in the case for organics your living soil
the worm castings are your biocrobial "sampling", castings also add micronutrients and contain a very small amount of nutrients.
from that sampling the bacteria will multiply and colonize the soil mix thus the term "living soil".
dolomite is a ph buffer, it keeps your soil ph within an optimal ph range for nutrient absorption, it also covers to a certain extent your plants need for calcium and magnesium
None of these are solid forms of fertilizer that can get a plant trough a whole growth phase, you must add
bone meal
blood meal
kelp meal
if you used just these 3 in the amounts i listed in my recipe above you could easily get through the veg phase without adding nutrients
MJ is a particular plant, it has a very high demand in term of fertilizer to achieve it's full potential, it can survive on very little because it is a weed but to achieve an superior result you need to get those amounts close to optimal.
This is why alot of grower use teas, teas have a 2 fold benefit.
a base tea is made of
molasses which is like candy for the soil microbes
EWC again as a microbe sampling that will multiply
liquid seaweed, contains microelements that feed the bacteria and fungi plus it adds potassium to your soil which is the hardest element to get into your soil in organics.
you then aerate the tea with an aquarium pump, the beneficial type of bacteria thrive on oxygen thus the added benefit of using alot of perlite and aerating you teas.
1st they reinoculate the soil with beneficial bacteria and boost the soil population, a boost in microbes also boost the amount of food that gets to the plant.
2nd they can also add depleted nutents to your soil, you can let guano seep in water for a few days and have a high N or high P nutrient tea that is quick acting, usually guano is a good way to go as it acts quickly and releases alot of nutrients easily.
Basically you make you mix for veg, let it sit for 2 weeks as the soil activates and composts then drop a rooted clone in the mix.
Use an base tea 1 or 2 times during veg and a week or so before you trasnplant to a flowering mix you hit them with a nitrogen tea using guano, this will assure you that your plants don't end up with an N def. early in flowering.
Transplant to a flowering mix that's been composting for 2 weeks which will contain only a little source of N and more P and K the same as any flowering nute in a bottle.
This mix will suffice for the first 2 weeks but then you should feed it a tea with high P guano every 2nd or 3rd watering, remember in organic soil gardening it takes some time before elements are available.
Use plain water with a little molasse for the last 2 weeks and you'll have yourself some tasty buds.
Trust me it sounds alot worse than it actually is, it's quite simple once you have your recipe down.
Hope this helps
Suby
The basic difference is that solid nutrient sources in soil break down over time as bacteria feed on them, liquid organic nutrient sources are similar in that they need the microbes the feed on them to feed the plant however they are more quickly availble and often contain elements that the plant can absorb right away.
That being said if you have the right source of solid fetilizer for your soil you can just give it water and watch them grow, this mix does not have any nutrients in solid form in the mix, it is a base organic mix.
the perlite is for air pockets and porosity
the Pro Mix is your medium or in the case for organics your living soil
the worm castings are your biocrobial "sampling", castings also add micronutrients and contain a very small amount of nutrients.
from that sampling the bacteria will multiply and colonize the soil mix thus the term "living soil".
dolomite is a ph buffer, it keeps your soil ph within an optimal ph range for nutrient absorption, it also covers to a certain extent your plants need for calcium and magnesium
None of these are solid forms of fertilizer that can get a plant trough a whole growth phase, you must add
bone meal
blood meal
kelp meal
if you used just these 3 in the amounts i listed in my recipe above you could easily get through the veg phase without adding nutrients
MJ is a particular plant, it has a very high demand in term of fertilizer to achieve it's full potential, it can survive on very little because it is a weed but to achieve an superior result you need to get those amounts close to optimal.
This is why alot of grower use teas, teas have a 2 fold benefit.
a base tea is made of
molasses which is like candy for the soil microbes
EWC again as a microbe sampling that will multiply
liquid seaweed, contains microelements that feed the bacteria and fungi plus it adds potassium to your soil which is the hardest element to get into your soil in organics.
you then aerate the tea with an aquarium pump, the beneficial type of bacteria thrive on oxygen thus the added benefit of using alot of perlite and aerating you teas.
1st they reinoculate the soil with beneficial bacteria and boost the soil population, a boost in microbes also boost the amount of food that gets to the plant.
2nd they can also add depleted nutents to your soil, you can let guano seep in water for a few days and have a high N or high P nutrient tea that is quick acting, usually guano is a good way to go as it acts quickly and releases alot of nutrients easily.
Basically you make you mix for veg, let it sit for 2 weeks as the soil activates and composts then drop a rooted clone in the mix.
Use an base tea 1 or 2 times during veg and a week or so before you trasnplant to a flowering mix you hit them with a nitrogen tea using guano, this will assure you that your plants don't end up with an N def. early in flowering.
Transplant to a flowering mix that's been composting for 2 weeks which will contain only a little source of N and more P and K the same as any flowering nute in a bottle.
This mix will suffice for the first 2 weeks but then you should feed it a tea with high P guano every 2nd or 3rd watering, remember in organic soil gardening it takes some time before elements are available.
Use plain water with a little molasse for the last 2 weeks and you'll have yourself some tasty buds.
Trust me it sounds alot worse than it actually is, it's quite simple once you have your recipe down.
Hope this helps
Suby
barnyard
Member
great thread everyone...
great thread everyone...
here's an easy mostly organic potting soil mix recipe:
50% large perlite
25% pro-mix
25% wormcastings
per gallon potting soil:
1 TBL Kelp Meal
1 TBL Alfalfa Meal
2 TBL Steamed Bone Meal
per gallon water every 3-4 weeks:
1/4 tsb espsom salts
thats it. Should be good to go with just water. For plants that like even more nutes the grower can supplement with alfafa tea if the plants ask for it.
The beauty of this type of mix is its ability to provide a steady and complete diet of the necessary elemental ions in a bio-intensive environment. There's no complicated fertilization schedule to remember or more importantly, to mess up. Ahhh, isn't idiot proof wonderful
LOL
plants aren't mobile and produce their own food thorugh the uptake of elemental ions and the photsynthetic process. Plants like a steady soil enviornment and don't do well with diet fluctuations.
there's no vermiculite in the mix because vermiculite breaks down too much.
There's no lime because the pro-mix is already pH adjusted. Plus I want my pH less than 7 like around 6.5-6.8pH
perlite is a light material that increases fertlization uptake because it provides surface area for microbilogical activity. Its porousity also imporves soil areation. Perlite is a neutral material that provides no nutrients and has average cation exchange. For vegging and flowering be sure to use the large perlite such as Fox Farm's Big and Chunky, avoid the small stuff that's used for insulation (although the small perlite works well in seedling and cloning mixes)
the peat moss based pro-mix has excellent cation exchange and retains moisture- this blows the organic label because these store bought potting soil mixes contain synthetic wetting agents
wormcastings are the organic bomb. The plants would probably do fine on the wormcastings alone. They are gentle yet complete and fast acting. The label on the bag notes an N of 1% and that's all it says.
Kelp Meal provides K, trace minerals and growth hormones (yes, I believe plant cells can absorb hormones)
Alfalfa Meal is a complete fertilizer high in N. It also provides growth hormones and enhances microbiological activity in the soil
Steamed Bone Meal provides P and Ca. Its good to get P mixed in with the soil because P does not travel through soil well.
epsom salts provide Sulfur and Mg
best of luck!
barn
great thread everyone...
here's an easy mostly organic potting soil mix recipe:
50% large perlite
25% pro-mix
25% wormcastings
per gallon potting soil:
1 TBL Kelp Meal
1 TBL Alfalfa Meal
2 TBL Steamed Bone Meal
per gallon water every 3-4 weeks:
1/4 tsb espsom salts
thats it. Should be good to go with just water. For plants that like even more nutes the grower can supplement with alfafa tea if the plants ask for it.
The beauty of this type of mix is its ability to provide a steady and complete diet of the necessary elemental ions in a bio-intensive environment. There's no complicated fertilization schedule to remember or more importantly, to mess up. Ahhh, isn't idiot proof wonderful
LOL plants aren't mobile and produce their own food thorugh the uptake of elemental ions and the photsynthetic process. Plants like a steady soil enviornment and don't do well with diet fluctuations.
there's no vermiculite in the mix because vermiculite breaks down too much.
There's no lime because the pro-mix is already pH adjusted. Plus I want my pH less than 7 like around 6.5-6.8pH
perlite is a light material that increases fertlization uptake because it provides surface area for microbilogical activity. Its porousity also imporves soil areation. Perlite is a neutral material that provides no nutrients and has average cation exchange. For vegging and flowering be sure to use the large perlite such as Fox Farm's Big and Chunky, avoid the small stuff that's used for insulation (although the small perlite works well in seedling and cloning mixes)
the peat moss based pro-mix has excellent cation exchange and retains moisture- this blows the organic label because these store bought potting soil mixes contain synthetic wetting agents
wormcastings are the organic bomb. The plants would probably do fine on the wormcastings alone. They are gentle yet complete and fast acting. The label on the bag notes an N of 1% and that's all it says.
Kelp Meal provides K, trace minerals and growth hormones (yes, I believe plant cells can absorb hormones)
Alfalfa Meal is a complete fertilizer high in N. It also provides growth hormones and enhances microbiological activity in the soil
Steamed Bone Meal provides P and Ca. Its good to get P mixed in with the soil because P does not travel through soil well.
epsom salts provide Sulfur and Mg
best of luck!
barn
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Recycled008
New member
1/2 pro mix bx
1/4 homemade worm castings
1/4 perlite
bone meal
blood meal
kelp meal
lime
usually recycle my soil, so I add the last three to condition the soil as needed. But usually need to add new soil in as I go to keep volume up. I use organics and with proper flushing, composting of used soil helps to get those little root hairs used up as to not burn your new delicate roots. Has worked for a few cycles now (semi perpetual) and works great !
1/4 homemade worm castings
1/4 perlite
bone meal
blood meal
kelp meal
lime
usually recycle my soil, so I add the last three to condition the soil as needed. But usually need to add new soil in as I go to keep volume up. I use organics and with proper flushing, composting of used soil helps to get those little root hairs used up as to not burn your new delicate roots. Has worked for a few cycles now (semi perpetual) and works great !
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i am new to both growing AND organics , could you please explain the comment " with proper flushing, composting of used soil helps to get those little root hairs used up as to not burn your new delicate roots" . i have been re-using my soil (with limited success) so i am wondering if the old root hairs are a source of trouble ?
Recycled008
New member
My proper flushing is to flush out the late flower P/K out of the soil mix. Composting the soil to reuse is just to make sure any remaining root hairs I miss in the sifter, does not heat up in my new plants.(decomposing matter heats up) Also gives the bone blood and kelp and lime time to break down into usable forms easer for the plant to handle. Turn daily in the dirt bins for aeration and the roots turn into organic matter in little time.
My recipe that i never had to add anything afterwards:
4 bags Scotts garden safe potting soil (4 cu feet) or 29.92 gal
6 cups Scotts Bone Meal - phosphorus source
5 cups glacial rock dust (3 tbsp per gal)
3-4 cups dolmite lime –calcium/ magnesium source & pH buffering
1.5 lbs Rare earth (2-4 oz per gal)
4 cups kelp meal.
6 cups alfalfa meal
15 lb bag pure worm castings:
½ bag of cow manure (20 lbs)
2 bags perlite (16 qt)
Alfalfa Meal
2.5-1-1
Alfalfa Meal is a reasonable alternative to blood meal as a source of nitrogen and is nicely balanced with phosphorous and potassium. It's carbohydrates and protein make it an excellent soil conditioner by encouraging microbial activity in the soil. One very important ingredient is tricontanol, a powerful plant growth regulator
Kelp Meal
1-1-2
Kelp contains over 60 minerals and elements, 21 amino acids, simple and complex carbohydrates, and several
Essential growth hormones (auxins, cytokines, and
Gibberellins)
Glacial rock dust
Glacial Rock Dust can: Increase phosphorus availability. Provide an excellent source of calcium, iron, magnesium and potassium, plus trace elements and micronutrients. Increase moisture-holding properties in the soil. Improve the cation exchange capacity. Improve soil structure and drainage. Glacial Rock Dust helps restore the correct mineral balance in the soil. When the correct balance is achieved, organic matter is turned into humus and the soil becomes a favorable environment for a host of beneficial molds, fungi, bacteria and earthworms. When this happens, the living soil becomes a buffer to the many variables gardeners must contend with.
General Hydroponics Rare Earth
Derived from ancient seabed deposits of pyrophyllitic clay and blended with fulvate Ore, Rare Earth provides a slow release of Silicon, Humates and 72 rare earth minerals. Blend with rooting media. top-dress around plant stem or add directly to nutrient solutions. Rare Earth elements develop a crystal matrix within growing plant tissue, which protects the plant from heat stress and nutrient extremes by generating a protective Silicon shield. This also deters fungal disease and reduces susceptibility to insect damage by "hardening" the plant.
Rare Earth contains Pyrophyllitic Silicate Clay naturally derived from ancient seabed deposits of biologically transformed organic matter combined with Leonardite Humates.
Cow Manure
.6-.3-.3
Cow manure perhaps has the lowest of nutrients of all manures but it increases soil water retention and has a full range of trace minerals.
Dolomite lime
Dolomite Lime (Calcium magnesium carbonate) is an excellent pH stabilizer for soil. Contains calcium and magnesium. Slow acting.
Worm Castings
1-0-0
earthworm castings provide many of the essential nutrients needed for healthy plant life. Castings are a totally organic, all natural fertilizer. Odorless and non-toxic, worm castings will not burn even the most delicate plants. Castings offer a concentrated source of calcium, magnesium, nitrogen, phosphates and potash in a form readily available to your plants. Major university research projects and testing has shown that the complete soil food biology found in worm castings will quickly control fungus problems. Within a few weeks plants suffering from fungus problems will show significant improvement that lasts. All ground fungus is quickly brought under control. Nitrogen is released in the fungus control process providing added plant growth.
Bone Meal
6-12-0
• All-natural phosphorous supplement to promote root and flower growth
• Enriched with iron for stronger, greener plants
• Controlled-release nitrogen extends each feeding for up to 2 months, with even a small amount feeding twice as many plants as other granular products
4 bags Scotts garden safe potting soil (4 cu feet) or 29.92 gal
6 cups Scotts Bone Meal - phosphorus source
5 cups glacial rock dust (3 tbsp per gal)
3-4 cups dolmite lime –calcium/ magnesium source & pH buffering
1.5 lbs Rare earth (2-4 oz per gal)
4 cups kelp meal.
6 cups alfalfa meal
15 lb bag pure worm castings:
½ bag of cow manure (20 lbs)
2 bags perlite (16 qt)
Alfalfa Meal
2.5-1-1
Alfalfa Meal is a reasonable alternative to blood meal as a source of nitrogen and is nicely balanced with phosphorous and potassium. It's carbohydrates and protein make it an excellent soil conditioner by encouraging microbial activity in the soil. One very important ingredient is tricontanol, a powerful plant growth regulator
Kelp Meal
1-1-2
Kelp contains over 60 minerals and elements, 21 amino acids, simple and complex carbohydrates, and several
Essential growth hormones (auxins, cytokines, and
Gibberellins)
Glacial rock dust
Glacial Rock Dust can: Increase phosphorus availability. Provide an excellent source of calcium, iron, magnesium and potassium, plus trace elements and micronutrients. Increase moisture-holding properties in the soil. Improve the cation exchange capacity. Improve soil structure and drainage. Glacial Rock Dust helps restore the correct mineral balance in the soil. When the correct balance is achieved, organic matter is turned into humus and the soil becomes a favorable environment for a host of beneficial molds, fungi, bacteria and earthworms. When this happens, the living soil becomes a buffer to the many variables gardeners must contend with.
General Hydroponics Rare Earth
Derived from ancient seabed deposits of pyrophyllitic clay and blended with fulvate Ore, Rare Earth provides a slow release of Silicon, Humates and 72 rare earth minerals. Blend with rooting media. top-dress around plant stem or add directly to nutrient solutions. Rare Earth elements develop a crystal matrix within growing plant tissue, which protects the plant from heat stress and nutrient extremes by generating a protective Silicon shield. This also deters fungal disease and reduces susceptibility to insect damage by "hardening" the plant.
Rare Earth contains Pyrophyllitic Silicate Clay naturally derived from ancient seabed deposits of biologically transformed organic matter combined with Leonardite Humates.
Cow Manure
.6-.3-.3
Cow manure perhaps has the lowest of nutrients of all manures but it increases soil water retention and has a full range of trace minerals.
Dolomite lime
Dolomite Lime (Calcium magnesium carbonate) is an excellent pH stabilizer for soil. Contains calcium and magnesium. Slow acting.
Worm Castings
1-0-0
earthworm castings provide many of the essential nutrients needed for healthy plant life. Castings are a totally organic, all natural fertilizer. Odorless and non-toxic, worm castings will not burn even the most delicate plants. Castings offer a concentrated source of calcium, magnesium, nitrogen, phosphates and potash in a form readily available to your plants. Major university research projects and testing has shown that the complete soil food biology found in worm castings will quickly control fungus problems. Within a few weeks plants suffering from fungus problems will show significant improvement that lasts. All ground fungus is quickly brought under control. Nitrogen is released in the fungus control process providing added plant growth.
Bone Meal
6-12-0
• All-natural phosphorous supplement to promote root and flower growth
• Enriched with iron for stronger, greener plants
• Controlled-release nitrogen extends each feeding for up to 2 months, with even a small amount feeding twice as many plants as other granular products
Hi All ! Here's a simple Veg mix, and flower mix.....Veg mix....1 tblsp each Blood meal,Bone meal,kelp meal, and dolimite lime 2 tblsp mix together in 1 gal of good soil of your choice...and 1 8oz cup worm castings
lately I've added something new to the veg and flower mixes...It's called
Sul-Po-Mag 0-0-22 (sulphur,potash,mag) this addition has made a BIG difference overall.... 1 tblsp
Flower mix.... 1 tblsp each of the above ferts + 1 8oz cup worm castings
2 tblsp bone meal instead of 1 = more phos for flowering
2 tblsp dolimite lime
add additional dry ferts Jamican bat guano 1 tblsp
greensand 1 tblsp
fish meal 1tblsp
soft rock phos 1 tblsp lately I deleted this from the mix
In 1 gal of PH 6.5 water mix 1 oz Maxicrop, 1 tblsp Nitron (enzymes) and a pinch of ACT (microbes) and pour this into the soil mix, and let it cook for a week or so...smells very earthy after awhile....then use ......that's it and here is the results........
mysta177
Active member
Here is what I use....very very easy just dont over water!
Tastiest buds youll ever smoke. TRy it youll be amazed!
The mix...1bag each-
Ocean Forest
Planting Mix(Batguano-Earthwormcastings)
Light Warrior
5 -6 gallons Chunky Perilite (make sure its chunky)
1 Cup Peace of Mind Fruit and Flower (yellow box)
1 cup Peace of Mind Starter Mix (light blue box)
just add Plain water from 6.7-6.3 the entire grow....
Tastiest buds youll ever smoke. TRy it youll be amazed!
The mix...1bag each-
Ocean Forest
Planting Mix(Batguano-Earthwormcastings)
Light Warrior
5 -6 gallons Chunky Perilite (make sure its chunky)
1 Cup Peace of Mind Fruit and Flower (yellow box)
1 cup Peace of Mind Starter Mix (light blue box)
just add Plain water from 6.7-6.3 the entire grow....
N
Nifty
a
