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ERR... UNFLUSHED CANNABIS ...CONTAINING CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS FROM THE FERTILIZER.SAFE?!

sprinkl

Member
Veteran
Eat The Blue Pill, Or The Red Pill?

At the risk of sounding like a dick, that actually couldn't be further from the truth. It's a facade rather than actual reality. Stop being a tool of the Hydroponics industry, it won't make you a better grower. You think growing in Hydro makes you feel like a better grower, or will give you better buds than a true organic soil run? Your buds will not show it.

I have not grown hydroponics, only organic soil, first grow was chemical soil. I think they all have their place. I don't think hydroponics is interesting if you like to grow a bunch of different varieties like I want to. I don't think organic soil is interesting if you want to maximize profit. But I grow for the best quality and personal use. I do think you can get as qualitative plants with chemical feed(that even yield more and/or faster) as with organic you just need to be a really good grower to get stuff dialed in that well. I'm pretty sure my plants are more resistant to pests and bugs with my organic feeding than they were with my sketchy inconsistent chemical feed. If they get bugs and pests that means spraying with stuff, which organic or not, will decrease quality one way or another. So I'll stick to organics for now :)
 

whodare

Active member
Veteran
what chemicals were you feeding your plants.

i only feed 17 elements.

hydrogen, oxygen, carbon, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, manganese, iron, molybdenum, chlorine, zinc, copper, and silicon.

those are elements, and they come in the form of a salt. those are what plants use to grow and sustain life. using pure salts, or decomposing organic material is irrelevant in terms of plant nutrient need, as long as what they need is where they need it when they need it your all good.

lackluster results in hydro usually are a result of grower error, most often poor nutrient solution management, but poor system design ranks up there too.

hydro hands down the highest yielding method there is, due to growth rate. it takes more than throwing water in a bucket though.

soil is a nice, super simple way to get an almost guaranteed harvest, and with the same environment and nutrition, results are no better or worse than hydro, just slower.
 

Easy7

Active member
Veteran
I never flushed with PBP, maxicrop, microblast, in soil or hydro and always had a clean white ash.
 

headband 707

Plant whisperer
Veteran
This is of course always a sensitive subject, but I am one of those growers that feeds till the chop.

Dont get me wrong, I started growing at one point, and I flushed all the time as per every growers advice I came across.

But the whole black ash thing got me.. You know when weed hasnt been dried properly when it leaves a dark ash, burns funny..

On dried, unflushed buds, the results are the same as they have ever been, and the same thing that happens to most dried plant matter, it turns white.

Of course Im a positively out of my mind looney who doesnt have fuckall a clue about growing because I dont flush, right?

yea yea...

Id say roughly 10% of growers can actually dry correctly and cure their product, rushing it only nets shit smoke... Where I believe the flushing bullshit is mixed into...

Please dont crucify me, Ive personally never seen the benefits of flushing.. But that is a subjective statement, dont read into to much lol..

imvho any grower that feeds till the end doesn't give two shits about his product and just cares about what they precieve as a large bud and fuck all the other reasons for not listening to anyone... Go ahead it's growers like you that made me want to grow my own,, so yeah keep it up lol... headband 707:biggrin:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fertilizer
 

headband 707

Plant whisperer
Veteran
what chemicals were you feeding your plants.

i only feed 17 elements.

hydrogen, oxygen, carbon, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, manganese, iron, molybdenum, chlorine, zinc, copper, and silicon.

those are elements, and they come in the form of a salt. those are what plants use to grow and sustain life. using pure salts, or decomposing organic material is irrelevant in terms of plant nutrient need, as long as what they need is where they need it when they need it your all good.

lackluster results in hydro usually are a result of grower error, most often poor nutrient solution management, but poor system design ranks up there too.

hydro hands down the highest yielding method there is, due to growth rate. it takes more than throwing water in a bucket though.

soil is a nice, super simple way to get an almost guaranteed harvest, and with the same environment and nutrition, results are no better or worse than hydro, just slower.


Humm you know there is a big difference between the natural element and a synthesized one right? headband 707:)
 

Jbonez

Active member
Veteran
imvho any grower that feeds till the end doesn't give two shits about his product and just cares about what they precieve as a large bud and fuck all the other reasons for not listening to anyone... Go ahead it's growers like you that made me want to grow my own,, so yeah keep it up lol... headband 707:biggrin:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fertilizer

Then we are fortunate your opinion exists somewhere betwixt facts and utter bullshit.. -Plato bro...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opinion

Please enlighten me on the difference between synthesized nutrients and mined, in fact, show me your organic chemistry degree while your at it, because I think you have fuckall a clue to be honest.. Fuckin urban scientists. And for the love of god, quote Einstein accurately please, and read the only quote you need to know from einstein in my siggy....
 

whodare

Active member
Veteran
Humm you know there is a big difference between the natural element and a synthesized one right? headband 707:)

no, no there isn't. both can be contaminated if not manufactured properly.

and considering contamination rate in relation to the application rates will put it in perspective.

if phosphate fertilizer has 5 ppb uranium, and i apply my phosphorus at 50 ppm(which i apply closer to 25 in rdwc) then there is a sub part per trillion exposure. you get more radiation standing under your hps.

no fertilizer company that uses salts is "synthesizing" elements, salts and the initial constituents maybe, but not elements. And they are using materials naturally from the earth to do it.

they find deposits of certain metal salts and refine them, or use an acid base reaction.


cut it with the hippy bullshit and learn some chemistry folks.

i care as much about my product as anyone which is why i educated myself on this shit. i use Washington states database to check my fertilizers. and i never spray anything on my plants, ever. i run a live res too, as i believe the beneficial bacteria can stimulate the plants and they keep pathogens away.


pure ingredients, pure product, plain and simple.


In chemistry, salts are ionic compounds that result from the neutralization reaction of an acid and a base. They are composed of cations (positively charged ions) and anions (negative ions) so that the product is electrically neutral (without a net charge). These component ions can be inorganic such as chloride (Cl−), as well as organic such as acetate (CH3COO−) and monatomic ions such as fluoride (F−), as well as polyatomic ions such as sulfate (SO42−).
There are several varieties of salts. Salts that hydrolyze to produce hydroxide ions when dissolved in water are basic salts and salts that hydrolyze to produce hydronium ions in water are acid salts. Neutral salts are those that are neither acid nor basic salts. Zwitterions contain an anionic center and a cationic center in the same molecule but are not considered to be salts. Examples include amino acids, many metabolites, peptides, and proteins.
Molten salts and solutions containing dissolved salts (e.g., sodium chloride in water) are called electrolytes, as they are able to conduct electricity. As observed in the cytoplasm of cells, in blood, urine, plant saps and mineral waters, mixtures of many different ions in solution usually do not form defined salts after evaporation of the water. Therefore, their salt content is given for the respective ions.


The name of a salt starts with the name of the cation (e.g., sodium or ammonium) followed by the name of the anion (e.g., chloride or acetate). Salts are often referred to only by the name of the cation (e.g., sodium salt or ammonium salt) or by the name of the anion (e.g., chloride salt or acetate salt).
Common salt-forming cations include:
Ammonium NH4+
Calcium Ca2+
Iron Fe2+ and Fe3+
Magnesium Mg2+
Potassium K+
Pyridinium C5H5NH+
Quaternary ammonium NR4+
Sodium Na+
Common salt-forming anions (parent acids in parentheses where available) include:
Acetate CH3COO− (acetic acid)
Carbonate CO32− (carbonic acid)
Chloride Cl− (hydrochloric acid)
Citrate HOC(COO−)(CH2COO−)2 (citric acid)
Cyanide C≡N− (N/A)
Nitrate NO3− (nitric acid)
Nitrite NO2− (nitrous acid)
Phosphate PO43− (phosphoric acid)
Sulfate SO42− (sulfuric acid)

Salts are formed by a chemical reaction between:
A base and an acid, e.g., NH3 + HCl → NH4Cl
A metal and an acid, e.g., Mg + H2SO4 → MgSO4 + H2
A metal and a non-metal, e.g., Ca + Cl2 → CaCl2
A base and an acid anhydride, e.g., 2 NaOH + Cl2O → 2 NaClO + H2O
An acid and a basic anhydride, e.g., 2 HNO3 + Na2O → 2 NaNO3 + H2O
Salts can also form if solutions of different salts are mixed, their ions recombine, and the new salt is insoluble and precipitates (see: solubility equilibrium), for example:
Pb(NO3)2(aq) + Na2SO4(aq) → PbSO4(s) + 2 NaNO3(aq)
 

Stonefree69

Veg & Flower Station keeper
Veteran
i care as much about my product as anyone which is why i educated myself on this shit. i use Washington states database to check my fertilizers. and i never spray anything on my plants, ever. i run a live res too, as i believe the beneficial bacteria can stimulate the plants and they keep pathogens away.


pure ingredients, pure product, plain and simple.
I agree w/what you say but no live res for me (mykos or bennies). If I did soil I'd be all over that stuff. Just Dyna-Gro Grow, Bloom, Pro-Tekt, Mag-Pro, K-L-N and Foliage Pro. Anything else would be H2O2 or Drip Clean. Any pests I'll 1st try Rosemary oil 1/2 tsp/gallon + drop dish soap and maybe SM-90, Azamax, Forbid, Avid... if something does get serious.
 

whodare

Active member
Veteran
I agree w/what you say but no live res for me (mykos or bennies). If I did soil I'd be all over that stuff. Just Dyna-Gro Grow, Bloom, Pro-Tekt, Mag-Pro, K-L-N and Foliage Pro. Anything else would be H2O2 or Drip Clean. Any pests I'll 1st try Rosemary oil 1/2 tsp/gallon + drop dish soap and maybe SM-90, Azamax, Forbid, Avid... if something does get serious.

In theory a sterile res is achievable, in practice, nearly impossible. I don't knock it as I've run them "sterile" before but after lots of reading and some practical experience, it's easier to run a live res, the plants love it and root pathogens are kept at bay. My res runs at 70-80 or ambient temps essentially and I only add water or nutrients once the live res is established, maybe some of my beneficial mix once every week or two.

Actinovate, and orca beneficials keep the res clear, though a thin film of bacteria will colonize all wet surfaces making them feel slick, the res will smell slightly earthy too but it's a good earthy. Actually smell is a good way to keep tabs on res/root health.


If you are going to run sterile use physan20 instead of bleach, as physan breaks down to ammonia or nitrogen while bleach can form trihalo-methane and a handfull of other nasty VOCs, not too big of a deal since we swim in pools and take showers in cloronated water but a thought.

Oh and h2O2 has a lifespan of minutes in a res, just trying to save you some money there, physan20 is better and the application rate for a res is 1ml in 10 gallons.
 

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