What's new

Discussion about factors affecting the purchase of a light

Mars Hydro Led

Grow on Earth Grow with Mars
Vendor
As we know, there are various kind of grow lights on market now. What would you consider mostly when purchasing a light? :chin::chin:

Light efficiency? different plants? latest tech? Spectrum? etc. This is an open thread to everyone. welcome to share your idea. :tiphat::respect:

Peace and love. :bump:

LIGHTS.jpg
 

Mars Hydro Led

Grow on Earth Grow with Mars
Vendor
Anyone would like to consider the type of seed source to decide the light?
Like which kind of light is suitable for sativa? which is better for indica?
 
the most common way i see that compares yield between LEDs and HIDs is grams per watt and LEDs need about 32watts per square foot and HIDs need about 40watts per square foot plus the Gavita LED 1700e is 75% more efficient @ 2.6 µmol/s than the Philips 315w CMH @ 1.95 µmol/s. if you got 1gpw with HID grow light then a LED grow light would need about 1.3-1.75gpw to get equal yield in the same space.

There is a LED light claiming Fohse gets 2.5gram per watt of sellable weight but you need minimum 10ft ceilings and they use Polycarbonate Lenses
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
the most common way i see that compares yield between LEDs and HIDs is grams per watt and LEDs need about 32watts per square foot and HIDs need about 40watts per square foot plus the Gavita LED 1700e is 75% more efficient @ 2.6 µmol/s than the Philips 315w CMH @ 1.95 µmol/s. if you got 1gpw with HID grow light then a LED grow light would need about 1.3-1.75gpw to get equal yield in the same space.

Purely theoretical. Just my limited experience with hps and leds tells me that is wrong, not even have to look around at other growers for that info. You have to test it to see it. You have to take into account the extra watts you put into cooling for the HIDs and all that. You also need to use leds up to their advantages and not go on on this treating led grow like a HID one. If growers do that mistake, I can belive they will need more gpw to be happy with leds. Meanwhile our biggest problem is energy cost, so running some extra electricity because the hids inefficiency compared to led, and then some extra to cool them, too.. seems pointless and stupid. Just because we can't stop a bit and understand and learn how to use leds better and to their strenghts. I guess its easier to just bash them..
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Just looked over the case studies at Fohse. Not impressed... In the 3 studies of LED vs HID the LED weigh-in includes extractable trim. Numbers like an ounce a foot. In one study, 36g of extract worthy trim, and 40g of tops. Can anyone imagine a ratio like that? But that's not my real complaint. They add this 36g of extract worthy trim to the saleable weight. The full 36g. When you start removing this from the equation, you see some of them may of saved electric, but didn't get any more bud per area.

With no known exceptions, all these people making lights, must buy LEDs from an open market. No one company can make an outstanding product in terms of gram per watt. The best company gives us the best LEDs and would shout about it. They would use quality drivers, with proper approvals and solid state capacitors wherever possible (non are there yet). All packaged in a way that won't fall apart or overheat.

Lenses are an issue. Instant light transmission losses and a thermal problem. Covers might be needed for areas hosed down, but a home grower should see them as a bad sign. In a warehouse where you want them up out the way, there becomes an argument for them. Where spread from such a height really does need narrowing down, or you loose more than the lens does. Spill is very low with most LEDs though. With the bulk of light within a 60 degree cone, even when much greater angles are quoted. Making reflectors more use, unless they shadow out the sun. A light for all occasions isn't possible, So it's nice to have these choices.


I just got a 730nm E27 lamp. Spot light shape, with a front maybe 120mm across. 18 LED affair. There is no way it's leaving my lounge though. That deep red looks great. You expect to feel the heat of a fire from it. The radiance pattern is way too tight to place it amongst my grow panels though. The front is 18 lenses that might be 4 screws from falling off. No though.... Lounge... Cosy. Much sleepyness light.
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
Anyone would like to consider the type of seed source to decide the light?
Like which kind of light is suitable for sativa? which is better for indica?

This is an interesting question, thanks. In my mind, the chosen spectrum determines at least some of the physical structure of the plant. A bluer spectrum leads to leafier, denser flowers with the possibility of additional resin content. A more HPS leaning spectrum leads to slimmer flowers with lower leaf content. So, to a certain degree, you can use different spectrums to change the growth of the plant regardless of seed source.

Where I see the difference is in the naturally thicker flowers the indica/WLD types produce. Without more penetrative lighting, you literally end up with a fat flower which is only mature on the outside. Once you break the flower open you can see how green and undeveloped the inner trichomes are. While this can be a plus for some strains, this is not what I want from an LED light.

Fortunately for me, I prefer sativas and flower very few big fat flowers. The fat flowers I have already grown have pushed the limits of the LEDs I'm using. The quandry is the indica/WLD usually requires less light than the sativa's... so I'm thinking there's a 'penetrative' wavelength band which can be beefed up for thicker flowers. What do I know though, yeah? lol :D
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
I am changing from one LED model to another on my next run. The wattage will be set the same @ 480, and both are 16 week Sativas. Different strains, and I hope different environments. Because the temps would get too high otherwise, I could only run 480 watts with the current light and vent system, and the new light is also 480 watts. I am adding positive pressure with an outside fan and filter to the tent, so the tent temperature can be reduced closer to lung room conditions.

The new light is a Mars FCE-4800e with the control-ability function. I would not run a light in a tent without a controller capability. This light has the driver external to the light, and has replaceable light bars. The light it is replacing has fixed bars and the driver is internal.

Won't be a very good back to back type test, or will it?

The light being replaced also is currently leaking juice to some of the LEDs during lights off, and they are on at a low power - I just noticed this uncool situation. The whole light has to be sent back for warrantee replacement now. This is the 2nd time for this failure mode.

How can we get spare bars for the Mars lights so we can keep a run from going bad if a problem arises? Service support is also important, and a factor in choosing a light.

A spare HPS bulb pops right in.
 
Last edited:

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
If your light is on, when it should be off, there is a wiring fault. In much of Europe such faulty wiring is standard. With plugs you can take out, turn 180 and plug back in. So nobody even cares which is live and neutral. Which is your issue. Live and neutral have been crossed. Often I find this when people put plugs on extension leads themselves. Coupled with earth rod based protection, the fault conditions can be quite amusing. Well... if you like getting belted from your taps.
 

Mars Hydro Led

Grow on Earth Grow with Mars
Vendor
This is an interesting question, thanks. In my mind, the chosen spectrum determines at least some of the physical structure of the plant. A bluer spectrum leads to leafier, denser flowers with the possibility of additional resin content. A more HPS leaning spectrum leads to slimmer flowers with lower leaf content. So, to a certain degree, you can use different spectrums to change the growth of the plant regardless of seed source.

Where I see the difference is in the naturally thicker flowers the indica/WLD types produce. Without more penetrative lighting, you literally end up with a fat flower which is only mature on the outside. Once you break the flower open you can see how green and undeveloped the inner trichomes are. While this can be a plus for some strains, this is not what I want from an LED light.

Fortunately for me, I prefer sativas and flower very few big fat flowers. The fat flowers I have already grown have pushed the limits of the LEDs I'm using. The quandry is the indica/WLD usually requires less light than the sativa's... so I'm thinking there's a 'penetrative' wavelength band which can be beefed up for thicker flowers. What do I know though, yeah? lol :D

sounds interesting. adding more red chips can let the inside flower be mature too, right?
 

Mars Hydro Led

Grow on Earth Grow with Mars
Vendor
I am changing from one LED model to another on my next run. The wattage will be set the same @ 480, and both are 16 week Sativas. Different strains, and I hope different environments. Because the temps would get too high otherwise, I could only run 480 watts with the current light and vent system, and the new light is also 480 watts. I am adding positive pressure with an outside fan and filter to the tent, so the tent temperature can be reduced closer to lung room conditions.

The new light is a Mars FCE-4800e with the control-ability function. I would not run a light in a tent without a controller capability. This light has the driver external to the light, and has replaceable light bars. The light it is replacing has fixed bars and the driver is internal.

Won't be a very good back to back type test, or will it?

The light being replaced also is currently leaking juice to some of the LEDs during lights off, and they are on at a low power - I just noticed this uncool situation. The whole light has to be sent back for warrantee replacement now. This is the 2nd time for this failure mode.

How can we get spare bars for the Mars lights so we can keep a run from going bad if a problem arises? Service support is also important, and a factor in choosing a light.

A spare HPS bulb pops right in.

The bars can be replaced easily. we have some spares one in warehouse. ;)
 
Top