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Cracking Seeds? Feb 1st or March 1st?

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
The seeds I start sometime in march always catch up and do better than the feb. Seeds. This year I will look for a stretch of nice weather mid march to start in my greenhouse.

i did a test on this once..i germ my seeds march 1 and then did my other half on april 1 and the april one always caught up with the ones i planted early or passed them up..i think ( only my opinion what i seen done) is that it takes the warm weather to get them going and starting them so much earlier dont make them flower 1 bit faster or grow to beasts IME..all mine flower at nearly the same time between july 30th thur aug 5..thats when all start to flower no matter if they was planted a month earlier or not..so now i just start mine on april 1 and never had any isues
 
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XxCaptiankushxX

If it takes warm weather to get em going, what about germing seeds in March and planting them in full term mounds (800 gal) under hoop rows in mid April. Allowing extra warmth from row covers. eventually row cover will be removed upon satisfactory weather., Mid May most likely. I am thinking I might take this approach this year. Anyone's thoughts?
 

oyvaydude

New member
If it takes warm weather to get em going, what about germing seeds in March and planting them in full term mounds (800 gal) under hoop rows in mid April. Allowing extra warmth from row covers. eventually row cover will be removed upon satisfactory weather., Mid May most likely. I am thinking I might take this approach this year. Anyone's thoughts?
Im with you dude, I was thinking, and a buddy of mine has done something pretty much like this, where you start seeds in feb, then after they have there first set of leaves under lights, bring them into a WARM greenhouse, propane heaters are the way to go, plus u get the added co2, then by april (Ive planted in April with no frost damage), you put out into 400 gallon or 800, whatever pots and they should be 8+ pounders, I just wish more people have tried this cause I think people are really in the dark when it comes to the potential of cannabis especially from seed. Think about in nature, I mean you can find anecdotes of people finding plants that started from seeds that fell previous year and it germinated, found a warm place to grow naturally, and became the biggest monster plant ever.
 

oyvaydude

New member
and obviously at no point can the plant become root bound, because then of course it will be stalled a little bit
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
^^^^
I guess all my plants get stalled then... lol...

They catch back up pretty quick after transplant though.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
If it takes warm weather to get em going, what about germing seeds in March and planting them in full term mounds (800 gal) under hoop rows in mid April. Allowing extra warmth from row covers. eventually row cover will be removed upon satisfactory weather., Mid May most likely. I am thinking I might take this approach this year. Anyone's thoughts?

i guess hoop house will keep the frost off them but until the ground warms up and we start getting hot days they arent gonnna grow and get that much of a head start..u can do a test like i did and find ur anwser..plant some with the hoop house and then do the others in april and come mid may and see what u got..i always keep my seedlings here at the house..i put them in a wheelbarrel and roll them in and out of my shed...the plants i planted in april alway do just as well if not better then the ones i did my test with that i planted march 1..and the plants i planted in march did not get no bigger or flower no earlier either..gl with whichever u decide and i hope it works well for u but for me it is just a extra step of work that i dont want to do anymore
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
I think when to plant depends on the grower's location, and their spring time weather patterns for the most part.

I like to germinate seeds 2 month prior to planting in their final holes outside in the ground.

The first 4 weeks of a plant life depicts it's final genetic potential %, so any conditions less than ideal aren't acceptable IMO. We cannot "add" weight to final yields, we can only prevent weight from being lost; so mitigating stress in the early stages of life is the key to heavy harvests. I wait til the last frost hits around here (May 25th) til I plant outside, so I'll pop beans at the end of March/early April. They're put on a 16/8 light cycle from the start, lights turn on when the sun rises pretty much. From there it's smooth sailing from there on out considering the plant has enough space in it's medium to prevent from becoming root bound. Last year I did 1 gallon pots inside then transplanted to 30 gallon holes in the ground, but this year I'll be going with 3 gallon pots then into 60 gallon holes. It seems like the bigger the better when it comes to soil...
 

quit

Member
I start mine in mid March under 12/12 and put them out in early June. This way there is no question to weather or not they will stay in veg.
 
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