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control box question

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
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Yes but you also need a power source to energize the relay. those red outlets can not be used for 240v there only good for 120v. you need 6-20r nema for 240v .....where are you plugging this in at. does it have a standard dryer 4 prong outlet there ???
 

cody2white

ghost in training
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GBMKUU?ie=UTF8&force-full-site=1

Ill check out lowes tomorrow for the outlets

There's no plug. Power is coming off a 30amp breaker I'm just trying to build a simplifyd version of your box hammer. Nothing crazy or fancy just something safe and run 3k of lights in 240v with 120 style outlets

So tomorrow. Outlets some bolts/nuts and a project box. Ill be back :)
 

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Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
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ya you will hook up the 240v to that relay on the line side. The load side goes to the outlets.. The 120v is used for a trigger to turn on/off the relay. The trigger get plugged into a timer. If you want the 240v on all the time then you would supply 120v to the relay at all times no timer would be needed
 

cody2white

ghost in training
Veteran
Shits done! :) only cost me 40$ and the hardest part was running the wire. I totally recommend diy on this project :) thanks ill post up pics if interested
 
S

shuswap

okay those red plug in female inlets we will call them are rated at what? all i can find even in the weird shaped plug is 15 amp and 120v,homedepot does not carry 240,at least not the one near me,is this a common item or is it electrical supply carry only...? mine are all rated at 15 amp 120 and have 3 amps and 240,im thinking i need to change them asap!?
 

1971

Member
Man I must be wording this wrong. I know these are regular 120v outlets but I know its possible to wire these 120 to 240. 2 hots and a ground. It looks like two hots and a ground in there already. So just cut end off and hook it up to relay? I just need to know I'm not crazy and im moving in the right direction. Thanks again hammer

you could have simply run a hot to either side of the 120v plug and save the cost of 240v receptacles.

seems slow writes like tactician. the same DB? :)
 

rives

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you could have simply run a hot to either side of the 120v plug and save the cost of 240v receptacles.

Really shitty idea here. Yes, it would work. No, it isn't code compliant, it leaves a booby trap for unsuspecting (or stoned and forgetful) people to plug in a 120v device and destroy it, and it can invalidate your insurance policy if you have a fire. Seems like a very expensive way to save $6 on a receptacle to me.

I thought that at some point you mentioned having an electrical background?
 

rives

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okay those red plug in female inlets we will call them are rated at what? all i can find even in the weird shaped plug is 15 amp and 120v,homedepot does not carry 240,at least not the one near me,is this a common item or is it electrical supply carry only...? mine are all rated at 15 amp 120 and have 3 amps and 240,im thinking i need to change them asap!?

6-15 and 6-20 receptacles (15 and 20 amp, 240v receptacles) aren't usually found at the big box stores. An electrical wholesaler would have them, and frequently there are very good prices on eBay for them.
 

cody2white

ghost in training
Veteran
Just an fyi i didn't buy the 240v outlets 1971 idea is what I already had planned. Its simple and effective and no other parts needed... plus it was already wired up right. I know about stoner moments but only I go in their and its already hooked up and put away and working great... I wrote 240 on it though. Lol just in case ;) plus at 240 isn't it like 4.5 amps on the 15amp outlet? Anyway this is just temporary till a permanent place comes up. I dont recommend it but it works.

Thanks for all the help guys. And I promise if I burn my place down ill post it.
 

1971

Member
Really shitty idea here. Yes, it would work. No, it isn't code compliant, it leaves a booby trap for unsuspecting (or stoned and forgetful) people to plug in a 120v device and destroy it, and it can invalidate your insurance policy if you have a fire. Seems like a very expensive way to save $6 on a receptacle to me.

I thought that at some point you mentioned having an electrical background?

Not especially. Why pay for plugs that are wildly expensive when a good quality 120v recep will work? So label it then if you are too retarded to remember it is 240v. I'm not sure how you guys do it, but my lighting is in a dedicated area with no issue of accidental usage by anything other than 240v equipment.

Yes, it would invalidate ones ins. policy, but growing usually does too. In addition, most aspects of grows are not done to code simply because they would be crazy expensive to comply with.

Most of the stores don't carry them around here and I don't want to make a special trip to the supply house, or if your ballast doesn't have the correct plug, gotta buy that, etc.

finding a simpler solution that works has no bearing on my electrical ability.
 

rives

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Not especially. Why pay for plugs that are wildly expensive when a good quality 120v recep will work? So label it then if you are too retarded to remember it is 240v. I'm not sure how you guys do it, but my lighting is in a dedicated area with no issue of accidental usage by anything other than 240v equipment.

Yes, it would invalidate ones ins. policy, but growing usually does too. In addition, most aspects of grows are not done to code simply because they would be crazy expensive to comply with.

finding a simpler solution that works has no bearing on my electrical ability.


Most electricians who have been at it for a while have discovered that there are some pretty good reasons behind NEMA and NEC standards. There are multiple generations of people who have been trained from the first time that they plugged something in that given plug-receptacle combinations are safe and have an expected result. As I said above, there are sources for these parts at very good prices. And yes, I think that it does have a bearing on the credibility of your work.
 
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1971

Member
Most electricians who have been at it for a while have discovered that there are some pretty good reasons behind NEMA and NEC standards. There are multiple generations of people who have been trained from the first time that they plugged something in that given plug-receptacle combinations are safe and have an expected result. As I said above, there are sources for these parts at very good prices. And yes, I think that it does have a bearing on the credibility of your work.

I agree, there are reasons for things. In my situation I had a ton of leftover parts and what not, so I used what I had and it works quite well. If someone wants to pay more for specific plugs, I say go for it. But in this situation it isn't needed.

You know how opinions are like assholes, everyone has one and you are entitled to your opinion.
 
Can't we all just get along? Were all here to help out. We are in this thread in particular to give out some control box electrical help. I know we all have our own opinions but lets try and make this thread something that will be read 5 years from now by somebody that will think "wow that's good info" instead of filling it with one-upping opinions.
 

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