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Concentrate Toys! (what do you smoke out of?)

ElRubio

Active member
Veteran
1-2-3

1
P1240671.jpg

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P1240676.jpg

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P1240679.jpg


take a peep on how this Hop+HMK works:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLEJl4ecPC8&feature=feedu

best vibes!!:blowbubbles:
 

dope_roor

Member
Awesome jagitoe!

Moved this pic over here thought it be more appropriate in this thread


Most used unit in the house:

IMG_3031.jpg
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
What is the temperature of the Titanium you prefer to evaporate?

In other words, what remains on the plate, or nothing?

When I smoke from an open ceramic heater with digital temperature control,
the black spot remains on the heater after the milk cloud is inhaled at 250°C /482°F
when temperature increases to a maximum of 480°C /896°F,
the black spot starts smoking again and burns without residue.

picture.php
 
Last edited:

dope_roor

Member
the laser thermometer we had around maxed out at 500*F and when taking readings from the Ti-plate, produced error messages so for sure it is 500+ *F

good quality oil made with at minimum coffee filter filtration usually leaves no residue, some of the wider SS mesh oil (i.e. okief stock screen) sometimes leaves a residue
 

Hashmasta-Kut

honey oil addict
Veteran
What is the temperature of the Titanium you prefer to evaporate?

In other words, what remains on the plate, or nothing?

When I smoke from an open ceramic heater with digital temperature control,
the black spot remains on the heater after the milk cloud is inhaled at 250°C /482°F
when temperature increases to a maximum of 480°C /896°F,
the black spot starts smoking again and burns without residue.

i try and vape closer to the temperature that leaves the black spot. i dont heat my ti to red hot really, just barely, then let it cool. there is a cool chart of metal temps and colors somewhere.

heres one http://911research.wtc7.net/cache/wtc/analysis/fires/metcolor.htm
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
What is the temperature of the Titanium you prefer to evaporate?

In other words, what remains on the plate, or nothing?

When I smoke from an open ceramic heater with digital temperature control,
the black spot remains on the heater after the milk cloud is inhaled at 250°C /482°F
when temperature increases to a maximum of 480°C /896°F,
the black spot starts smoking again and burns without residue.
the laser thermometer we had around maxed out at 500*F and when taking readings from the Ti-plate, produced error messages so for sure it is 500+ *F

good quality oil made with at minimum coffee filter filtration usually leaves no residue, some of the wider SS mesh oil (i.e. okief stock screen) sometimes leaves a residue
Of course, I asked about the evaporation of an optically pure resin which was filtered and even passed winterization.
Together with a useful component the resin contains the unwanted high-boiling components,
the accurate temperature control leaves them on the plate not allowing them to evaporate and be inhaled.
This is the final separation good from bad after a long way of extraction.
i try and vape closer to the temperature that leaves the black spot. i dont heat my ti to red hot really, just barely, then let it cool. there is a cool chart of metal temps and colors somewhere.
heres one http://911research.wtc7.net/cache/wtc/analysis/fires/metcolor.htm
In the related link on “Metal Temperature by Color” it is easy to see that the minimum temperature
which can be defined by color is Faint Red 930°F /500°C that is far overheated to dope,

The lower temperatures can not be defined by color and the black spot on the plate seems to be
the only one sign of the correct temperature of evaping, except for the laser thermometer reading,
when good things were inhaled while bad things were not allowed to evaporate and stayed on the plate.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Of course, I asked about the evaporation of an optically pure resin which was filtered and even passed winterization.
Together with a useful component the resin contains the unwanted high-boiling components,
the accurate temperature control leaves them on the plate not allowing them to evaporate and be inhaled.
This is the final separation good from bad after a long way of extraction.

In the related link on “Metal Temperature by Color” it is easy to see that the minimum temperature
which can be defined by color is Faint Red 930°F /500°C that is far overheated to dope,

The lower temperatures can not be defined by color and the black spot on the plate seems to be
the only one sign of the correct temperature of evaping, except for the laser thermometer reading,
when good things were inhaled while bad things were not allowed to evaporate and stayed on the plate.

Sort of an interesting phenomenom! For some reason, if we overheat a titanium wand, it doesn't produce observable vapor until it cools down a mite. The sweet spot seems to be just below barely observable red color in the Ti ball on the end of our wand.

Not sure why that is, and am still pondering it. Any thoughts?
 

Hashmasta-Kut

honey oil addict
Veteran
Sort of an interesting phenomenom! For some reason, if we overheat a titanium wand, it doesn't produce observable vapor until it cools down a mite. The sweet spot seems to be just below barely observable red color in the Ti ball on the end of our wand.

Not sure why that is, and am still pondering it. Any thoughts?

this is only true with fresh unused titanium in my experience. once a char spot is formed, oil will start to evaporate and boil on any temp pad.
 

miaumiau

Active member
ICMag Donor
So what is the ideal moment to drop the oil on the ti-pad?

When it is still a little red, or when it is NO more red?


I use the ti-pad for qwiso most of the time....i ALWAYS have this black and white char spots on the pad, but its not a problem for me....

I just would like to know what is the ideal point for inhaling the best possible type of smoke when it comes to taste, effect and above all healthiness ?!? :ying:

:thank you:
 

dope_roor

Member
i find the optimum temp to be when the Ti plate loses it's redness and is just barely glowing still

you can find your optimum spot by taste IMO, when i dab off of red hot Ti it tastes "hot"
 

ElRubio

Active member
Veteran
i find the optimum temp to be when the Ti plate loses it's redness and is just barely glowing still

you can find your optimum spot by taste IMO, when i dab off of red hot Ti it tastes "hot"

+1
i dont have the tech to know anything bout temp in the plate, but i never drop the oil when its´still red. i keep some seconds until it losses some degrees, and back metal coloured again. Just the experienced of use can solve this issue, try and error test in order to check when its the appropriate moment to rush out hehe :dance013:
 

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