I love this! Its beautiful exactly what I would want in a piece, never seen spikes like that on glass, LOVVVVVVEEE IT!!!
art
i love it too..... i made a few orders there, and love every one i got.
I love this! Its beautiful exactly what I would want in a piece, never seen spikes like that on glass, LOVVVVVVEEE IT!!!
art
Thanks Marn, picked it up. Its not as ideal as the aqualab, but for $60 I couldn't pass on it.
What is the temperature of the Titanium you prefer to evaporate?
In other words, what remains on the plate, or nothing?
When I smoke from an open ceramic heater with digital temperature control,
the black spot remains on the heater after the milk cloud is inhaled at 250°C /482°F
when temperature increases to a maximum of 480°C /896°F,
the black spot starts smoking again and burns without residue.
What is the temperature of the Titanium you prefer to evaporate?
In other words, what remains on the plate, or nothing?
When I smoke from an open ceramic heater with digital temperature control,
the black spot remains on the heater after the milk cloud is inhaled at 250°C /482°F
when temperature increases to a maximum of 480°C /896°F,
the black spot starts smoking again and burns without residue.
Of course, I asked about the evaporation of an optically pure resin which was filtered and even passed winterization.the laser thermometer we had around maxed out at 500*F and when taking readings from the Ti-plate, produced error messages so for sure it is 500+ *F
good quality oil made with at minimum coffee filter filtration usually leaves no residue, some of the wider SS mesh oil (i.e. okief stock screen) sometimes leaves a residue
In the related link on “Metal Temperature by Color” it is easy to see that the minimum temperaturei try and vape closer to the temperature that leaves the black spot. i dont heat my ti to red hot really, just barely, then let it cool. there is a cool chart of metal temps and colors somewhere.
heres one http://911research.wtc7.net/cache/wtc/analysis/fires/metcolor.htm
Of course, I asked about the evaporation of an optically pure resin which was filtered and even passed winterization.
Together with a useful component the resin contains the unwanted high-boiling components,
the accurate temperature control leaves them on the plate not allowing them to evaporate and be inhaled.
This is the final separation good from bad after a long way of extraction.
In the related link on “Metal Temperature by Color” it is easy to see that the minimum temperature
which can be defined by color is Faint Red 930°F /500°C that is far overheated to dope,
The lower temperatures can not be defined by color and the black spot on the plate seems to be
the only one sign of the correct temperature of evaping, except for the laser thermometer reading,
when good things were inhaled while bad things were not allowed to evaporate and stayed on the plate.
I suspect that too high temperature reduces the efficiency of the process,Any thoughts?
Sort of an interesting phenomenom! For some reason, if we overheat a titanium wand, it doesn't produce observable vapor until it cools down a mite. The sweet spot seems to be just below barely observable red color in the Ti ball on the end of our wand.
Not sure why that is, and am still pondering it. Any thoughts?
was it the effect like drops of water on the hot iron?this is only true with fresh unused titanium in my experience.
i find the optimum temp to be when the Ti plate loses it's redness and is just barely glowing still
you can find your optimum spot by taste IMO, when i dab off of red hot Ti it tastes "hot"
was it the effect like drops of water on the hot iron?