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Colorado Growers Thread

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FoCo(No.Co)

Barned
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Hmm...the guy that's showing me the coco mix is watering it all by hand. I just assumed that it was a soiless grow. But I never considered it hydro.

Does the taste change dramatically?

Okay...my question is though...I understand Coco to be "soilless". But does that make it "hydroponic"?

I always assumed that hydroponic was the way you delivered water to your plants. Not so much the medium it was in.


Hydroponic is synonymous with soil-less. You dont need pumps to be considered a hydro grower; I'm a human pump.

Assuming you dont do anything to shock the plants(inconsistent feedings/ph), there is no reduction in quality of any kind in coco as opposed to soil, you just get a lot more bud in the end.

I think the biggest advantage for plants in soil is that its is a very stable environment. In a lot of hydroponic systems there is unnatural flucuation of ph and it stresses the plants out. Coco has awesome buffering qualities and allows you to replicate a stable soil-like environment, while still taking advantage of hydroponic levels of dissolved oxygen.

Coco is the shit, straight up.
 
There is a big difference, especially when considering which feeding schedule you will use. Are you Hydro or are you soil? As you can see by the chart below, the way your girls absorb nutrients is greatly affected by your medium...

untitled.jpg
 

FoCo(No.Co)

Barned
Veteran
There is a big difference, especially when considering which feeding schedule you will use. Are you Hydro or are you soil? As you can see by the chart below, the way your girls absorb nutrients is greatly affected by your medium...

untitled.jpg

These charts are misleading to the point of uselessness.

The hydro chart claims that there is no overlapping ph at which P/Mg and Ca can be absorbed? And that these nutrients are not available outside these ranges they give?

What if I keep my hydroponic medium at 5.7 for an entire grow? Since the chart says P is not available at that ph, I should never get a flower, right?

Come on! There is no definite range that these elements are available, they just become less available as the ph travels in one direction or another. The graphed sections should be graduated in shape and take up a much larger range.

Whoever compiled that chart needs to be slapped in the face with a stats and/or chemistry book.
 

NUG-JUG

Member
Hey Foco I'd add that I grow in soil and My soil's ph is always seven whenever I bother to check. My plants are healthy, but should be deficient in minerals according to the chart.
 
These charts are misleading to the point of uselessness.

The hydro chart claims that there is no overlapping ph at which P/Mg and Ca can be absorbed? And that these nutrients are not available outside these ranges they give?

What if I keep my hydroponic medium at 5.7 for an entire grow? Since the chart says P is not available at that ph, I should never get a flower, right?

Come on! There is no definite range that these elements are available, they just become less available as the ph travels in one direction or another. The graphed sections should be graduated in shape and take up a much larger range.

Whoever compiled that chart needs to be slapped in the face with a stats and/or chemistry book.

The point of this was to point out that nutes are best absorbed within specific ranges...a guideline....no more, no less

We all know that different strains react differently...something I forgot in my E&G...I had to "feed" according to the plant that reacted first....I could have fed my other girls at a different (higher) rate, but it would have burned the others...

Me, I start my nutes at a 5.5 and let the ph rise as the nutes are consumed. When I change my res out I am at about 6.2...

In this game there are no "etched-in-stone" perfect formulas...or everyone could do this...
 

LOL....I have this chart somewhere as well....in fact, I couldn't find it when I posted the other one...and again, hydro is going to be different...slightly lower

Didn't see this before I responded to your previous post....

This is alot better than the one I posted....and I still cannot find mine, so I copied yours...lol
 

Budsworth

Member
I know the mix (from what I've learned of it...I have yet to mix it myself) is mostly coco and worm castings. I know dolomite lime and fine perlite are added. He also said he packs the roots with ocean forest because the mixture is hot and it give the roots a buffer before they hit the coco mix. So I believe there are some other things he's adding in there.

In addition, once he transplants, he pokes holes a finger deep all around the base of the plant and adds mycorrhizae in all the holes. Then waters little more than a quarter gallon everyday. In a 5 gallon bucket he puts one cup of the yellow budswel bat quano and 25ml of green fuse. He does that everyday. He cuts out adding nutrients 2 weeks before harvest.

His results are fantastic. Yield is large. Plants looks fantastic. Flowers are huge.
 

JoeManixx

Member
These charts are misleading to the point of uselessness.

The hydro chart claims that there is no overlapping ph at which P/Mg and Ca can be absorbed? And that these nutrients are not available outside these ranges they give?

What if I keep my hydroponic medium at 5.7 for an entire grow? Since the chart says P is not available at that ph, I should never get a flower, right?

Come on! There is no definite range that these elements are available, they just become less available as the ph travels in one direction or another. The graphed sections should be graduated in shape and take up a much larger range.

Whoever compiled that chart needs to be slapped in the face with a stats and/or chemistry book.

The chart you're using shows the optimum availability with those bars. The thing to remember is that they don't turn on and off exactly at any pH, they are just more or less available.

Compare it to MHDave's chart and you'll see long tapered tails on either end of "optimum". Still available within the tapered zones, just less so as you move away from optimum pH.

Best to define a range (5.8-6.2 is mine), figure out the direction of drift from depletion and adjust to the opposite end of the range. Then let it swing.

Pretty much what dave said. -Joe
 

Balazar

Member
I make it a point to grow all the same strain in each of my hydro systems. No mixing and matching within the same system. This isn't ideal for someone that wants a large variety all at once but IMO it's a must for producing a large quality crop in a hydro system.

As far as ph I set it when I start a cycle and I don't mess with it unless I have a problem (and that usually means a flush). I maintain a healthy micro herd and let the girls control the ph. It will drift some but as long as the plants look healthy I don't touch it.
 

cobcoop

Puttin flame to fire
ICMag Donor
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Hopefully the f1's will have some decent plants... Actually I'm more stoked on the phillthy freebies I requested.
 

FoCo(No.Co)

Barned
Veteran
Hopefully the f1's will have some decent plants... Actually I'm more stoked on the phillthy freebies I requested.

How do you know what freebies are available to make a request?

I have been getting sam the skunkman's haze x skunk every order for the last three years.
 

cobcoop

Puttin flame to fire
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Lol, I got kinda lucky cause I read if you order from the boo, you can't request the bay freebies, but I did anyway (asked nicely) this time around, and I got em. But they keep a pretty current list here: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=169132

You ever grow those out foco? I've wondered if they were decent.

Paco, if there's a winner I'm sure it'll make it around :tiphat:
 

funkfingers

Long haired country boy
Veteran
Philth's gear all looks like fire.. I think he might be working on some carolina blue crosses, which would be sweet, that one is on my list of strains to try..looks so tasty.

Anyone planning on doing any outdoor this summer???
 
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