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Cold weather climate *exhaust*

trixP

Active member
So I live in a hot n freezing fluctuating climate yesterday 0 today feels like -17

Some days my exhaust fan “ smokes “ condensates when the hot air hits the cold air outside….. sometimes it’s quite visible

Anyone have any tricks or tips to aid in keeping my exhaust stealth ???

Was thinking of making this sorta drop box so my exhaust pipe has a foot n a half of cold air to do its thing instead of the hot air hitting the cold right away……… see picture

Any advice appreciated specially if I’m going to hook up 2 tents on this exhaust ( possibly )
 

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Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
So I live in a hot n freezing fluctuating climate yesterday 0 today feels like -17

Some days my exhaust fan “ smokes “ condensates when the hot air hits the cold air outside….. sometimes it’s quite visible

Anyone have any tricks or tips to aid in keeping my exhaust stealth ???

Was thinking of making this sorta drop box so my exhaust pipe has a foot n a half of cold air to do its thing instead of the hot air hitting the cold right away……… see picture

Any advice appreciated specially if I’m going to hook up 2 tents on this exhaust ( possibly )
Run your exhaust into a large cardboard box to muffle and condense the fog.
 

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Could try a Tumble Dryer Condenser Kit , inexpensive and probably better than a soon to be soggy cardboard box , in my experience they do not work well unless stood in a bucket of ice cold water.

If you heat the property with logs/coal/oil/gas , might be possible to add to or camo as an exhaust as the plumes look similar when cold outside.
 

trixP

Active member
Could try a Tumble Dryer Condenser Kit , inexpensive and probably better than a soon to be soggy cardboard box , in my experience they do not work well unless stood in a bucket of ice cold water.

If you heat the property with logs/coal/oil/gas , might be possible to add to or camo as an exhaust as the plumes look similar when cold outside.
Was going to build a box from wood

As picture from a door window
 

trixP

Active member
Could try a Tumble Dryer Condenser Kit , inexpensive and probably better than a soon to be soggy cardboard box , in my experience they do not work well unless stood in a bucket of ice cold water.

If you heat the property with logs/coal/oil/gas , might be possible to add to or camo as an exhaust as the plumes look similar when cold outside.
Water will surely freeze ??
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
Pro solution would be a heat exchanger. Diy could work by just using uninsulated ducting and lenghtening the run before it gets out, preferably in a colder room or storage space/attic/crawlspace, so the temp gets lowered before it hits outside. Spraying fine mist water in the last part of the tubing could also work.
 

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Water will surely freeze ??
Condensor kit is just a plastic box that connects to standard dryer flexible hose , possibly the same diameter as ventilation pipes in the growroom.
It aims to cool down the warm saturated air and cause as much water vapour as possible to condense in the box.
Sitting it in a tote/bowl of cold water massively increases moisture collection untill the cold water heats up.

If you fitted one in a wooden box and routed from the box to outside it could work well enougth to suffise.
 

trixP

Active member
Pro solution would be a heat exchanger. Diy could work by just using uninsulated ducting and lenghtening the run before it gets out, preferably in a colder room or storage space/attic/crawlspace, so the temp gets lowered before it hits outside. Spraying fine mist water in the last part of the tubing could also work.
Unfortunately not an option for me, I could rout it into the vent stove fan but even at that it won’t exit properly…..and I kinda need the stove fan to work properly lol,
 

trixP

Active member
Condensor kit is just a plastic box that connects to standard dryer flexible hose , possibly the same diameter as ventilation pipes in the growroom.
It aims to cool down the warm saturated air and cause as much water vapour as possible to condense in the box.
Sitting it in a tote/bowl of cold water massively increases moisture collection untill the cold water heats up.

If you fitted one in a wooden box and routed from the box to outside it could work well enougth to suffise.
Interesting
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
Whole lot of ice in a small lung room before exiting outside? Taking air from outside and mixing the exhaust with that to mask any diferences?
 

moose eater

Well-known member
I live in the sub-arctic. I run a loop of sorts with no direct exchange from the shop to the outdoors.

A carbon unit pulling 485 cfm (without adjustments for pressures created by bends in the ducting) into the shop and out of the shop in the basement, an HRV fresh-air-supply face near the shop's intake in the basement, and an HRV exhaust face near the shop's exhaust in the basement. A double hand-off of sorts.

My HRV gets thrown into mandatory auto-defrost mode in the Fall through spring by disconnecting the thermistor line from the motherboard, causing the HRV to go into panic mode and (falsely) assume it's continually colder than -30 f., thus defrosting the HRV core about every 12-15 minutes of functional run-time.

Staying on top of the carbon trays that I have custom made, it works very well.
 
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trixP

Active member
I live in the sub-arctic. I run a loop of sorts with no direct exchange from the shop to the outdoors.

A carbon unit pulling 485 cfm (without adjustments for pressures created by bends in the ducting) into the shop and out of the shop in the basement, an HRV fresh-air-supply face near the shop's intake in the basement, and an HRV exhaust face near the shop's exhaust in the basement. A double hand-off of sorts.

My HRV gets thrown into mandatory auto-defrost mode in the Fall through spring by disconnecting the thermistor line from the motherboard, causing the HRV to go into panic mode and (falsely) assume it's continually colder than -30 f., thus defrosting the HRV core about every 12-15 minutes of functional run-time.

Staying on top of the carbon trays that I have custom made, it works very well.
Put it this way I live in the air ;) this is why it’s kinda important hahaha
 

moose eater

Well-known member
Put it this way I live in the air ;) this is why it’s kinda important hahaha
I'm in a cold climate with a practically air-tight house (6-star, as far as insulation and tightness), thus the necessity of a functioning HRV in the winter. Without it, I get water on the walls and windows.

And now I'm out to lie on a tarp in the snow and change the oil and cabin and engine air filters on my wife's vehicle, as it's warmed up to +10 f. :)

And I need to change out one of her low-beam headlight bulbs while the wires aren't brittle cold. Thank goodness for heat-producing 500-watt halogen work lights!
 

Sasult

Member
Why do you need to blow it outside?
I can see the need in the summer, but in the winter it seems like a big waste. I would duct it into the next room, at least in winter. Even if you get fancy with a register box, vent grate, and a cover, for the unused hole, you are looking at a $40 project. Then you can use a hose clamp, and move it whenever.
 

moose eater

Well-known member
Why do you need to blow it outside?
I can see the need in the summer, but in the winter it seems like a big waste. I would duct it into the next room, at least in winter. Even if you get fancy with a register box, vent grate, and a cover, for the unused hole, you are looking at a $40 project. Then you can use a hose clamp, and move it whenever.
Can't speak for the OP, but in my and many others' cases, not venting may result in very high humidity.

I counter heat issues by having very warm basement walls and an uninsulated monolithic slab foundation, which provides natural cooling in the summer and natural heating in the winter. Plus, the heat from the lights, which is a bit less with the newer 315 cmh lights I went with. But I have R-42 basement walls, an air-tight vapor barrier, etc.
 

trixP

Active member
Why do you need to blow it outside?
I can see the need in the summer, but in the winter it seems like a big waste. I would duct it into the next room, at least in winter. Even if you get fancy with a register box, vent grate, and a cover, for the unused hole, you are looking at a $40 project. Then you can use a hose clamp, and move it whenever.
There’s 3 rooms here one is a bathroom

My “ house “ is in the air and im facing the front put it that way ……
 

trixP

Active member
Can't speak for the OP, but in my and many others' cases, not venting may result in very high humidity.

I counter heat issues by having very warm basement walls and an uninsulated monolithic slab foundation, which provides natural cooling in the summer and natural heating in the winter. Plus, the heat from the lights, which is a bit less with the newer 315 cmh lights I went with. But I have R-42 basement walls, an air-tight vapor barrier, etc.

Exactly that


Building here, slab , if I vent into rooms forget it over heating, fogging etc must vent outdoors

Can’t vent properly to washroom vent or stove vent need both working when I need them
 
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