CO2 Controller
- Thread starter chomsky
- Start date
hmm... you need a sensor obviously. sensor requires a power source.
sensor tells a controller to open or close a solenoid, or turn on or off a co2 generator.
solenoid requires power to operate. co2 generator requires a solenoid at the very least as well as an ignition source. both require power.
sensor tells a controller to open or close a solenoid, or turn on or off a co2 generator.
solenoid requires power to operate. co2 generator requires a solenoid at the very least as well as an ignition source. both require power.
chomsky
Member
OK I see, I didnt realize that the regulator plugged in. Now I get it. Thanks
Hi fellaz! I see its an old topic, but i have a question: I have built a co2 setup, 5x5 box, 2x600w hps, cooltube with fan pulls in the air from outside, and goes out on the other side. Vivosun co2 regulator, AZ7530 co2 controller. Temperature is still high (37Celsius, CO2 is on 1200PPM) , so i was thinking to synchronize the fan and the co2 input, because i dont want to waste co2. The idea is, that for 1 hour i give co2 and for that time the fan is off. (Only the cooltube fan is on, but that is completely sealed from the tent.) Then i give 15 minutes with fan on,and for that time, i want the co2 input to stop. But since the greenhouse mode on my controller only allows the photo period mode which is that supplies co2 with lights on, i bought 2 timer, one for the fan which pulls the air out, one for the co2 controller. I set it up like this: fan: 1 hour off, 15 minutes on. Co2 controller: 1 hour on, 15 minutes off. So my question is, isnt that mess up the controller if it has to turn on and off every hour ? Or i should keep co2 input all the time, even for the 15 minutes with fan on ? For dark period of course, fan is on, and co2 controller stops supplying, if there is dark. I hope its understandable and some of u can help. Cheers!
Three Berries
Active member
Not much sense in pumping CO2 out while generating it at the same time.
They need to develop some water cooling for tents so you don't have to use so much air exchange.
FWIW CO2 is heavier than air and will accumulate with low air flow.
They need to develop some water cooling for tents so you don't have to use so much air exchange.
FWIW CO2 is heavier than air and will accumulate with low air flow.
Thats obvius that is why my co controller and fan are synchronized. Then the question again: isnt that going to mess up the controller if it has to turn on and off every hour ?
Three Berries
Active member
It shouldn't. You could get a solenoid valve and a simple interval timer between the regulator.
I like the multi program digital timers that won't lose their time when powered off. So you can make about anything an interval timer out of it.
Thanks for your input. Of course my regulator has a solenoid valve, which is connected to the AZ7530 co2 controller. The problem is, in greenhouse mode co2 is on when light is on and off when light is off so i cannot play with on off times, thats why i got the timers, with those i can synchronize perfectly the fan and co2 input. My only concern was that if it get so often on/off i could ruin the controller.
Should not be an issue. The specs on your Co2 controller state a 30 second warm up time so it will stabilize and be working properly quickly upon power up. Its very doubtful that cycling the power on and off like this will shorten the service life of the controller.
PS. If you can get your temps down some your plants will be happier.
PS. If you can get your temps down some your plants will be happier.
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Thanks for the quick reply. 37 Celsius was with no extractor fan. If i turn on the fan after every hour for 15 minutes, i can keep it under 35. Btw they say that for high co2 level higher temperature is okay. Jorge Cervantes said even 95 Fahrenheit with 1500PPM co2 level, which is exactly 35 Celsius 
Having a high temperature to keep them as healthy as possible until the end. The temperature is high, take care of the humidity (during the day it goes up to 70% maximum, if you have good ventilation and even if you are in bloom late).
I recommend you look at a VPD scheme that will help you a lot. I have the same problem in the summer ... that's why I use a CO2 bag, perforated once. From what I know from my friend who has a co2 system connected to the controller he uses 400-450ppm on a 2.88m box box under 1300W led, 1100ppfd + but as the guys said above, you need a compatible sensor and it is best to you find a system with sensor and controller.
I noticed that between intake and outake it is better to have a negative pressure (I go on 2Pa) and a difference of at least 30% (I use 44%) valid for those who use in. At positive pressure you lose CO2 faster.
Try to get to the bottom of the box.
I recommend you look at a VPD scheme that will help you a lot. I have the same problem in the summer ... that's why I use a CO2 bag, perforated once. From what I know from my friend who has a co2 system connected to the controller he uses 400-450ppm on a 2.88m box box under 1300W led, 1100ppfd + but as the guys said above, you need a compatible sensor and it is best to you find a system with sensor and controller.
I noticed that between intake and outake it is better to have a negative pressure (I go on 2Pa) and a difference of at least 30% (I use 44%) valid for those who use in. At positive pressure you lose CO2 faster.
Try to get to the bottom of the box.
Three Berries
Active member
I have a CO2 monitor that has a programmable alarm beeper. It's a 5v twice a second signal. I soldered in a latching relay that when the alarm is on the relay is active. I used it for kicking in a fresh air fan.
I routinely in the winter see above 2500 ppm. Right now with just the house closed up over night the CO2 level is 1250 ppm in the house, no flames, just two mammals. 400-450 is normal summertime outside daylight levels.
I routinely in the winter see above 2500 ppm. Right now with just the house closed up over night the CO2 level is 1250 ppm in the house, no flames, just two mammals. 400-450 is normal summertime outside daylight levels.
Hi. I have a controller with sensor, my room is without added co2 on around 500ppm level, so i dont have to add that much. After dark period where they use oxygen and make co2 level used to go up to 650-700, but they use it up quickly. When i m in the tent and watering, after it used to go up to 1250 ppm.
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I never measured the amount of CO2 emitted by the bag.
Co2 installations must be used very carefully as it does not take you long to faint, a few minutes if it is indoors.
Can anyone measure the amount offered by the bag? It would be very useful for us to know.
Co2 installations must be used very carefully as it does not take you long to faint, a few minutes if it is indoors.
Can anyone measure the amount offered by the bag? It would be very useful for us to know.
Hi guys, for some reason two of my co2 regulators got burned out in the last week and i have no clue why. I attached a picture. It is a vivosun co2 regulator from amazon, and somehow after a few hours of use, it doesnt work anymore, and the black plastic got melted on the valve. Any ideas ? First i thought it was just that one wrong, i ordered another one and the same story. Kind of annoying, and im in flo already.. time is going
Three Berries
Active member
My guess is it's on continuously and not rated for that? Or your voltage is wrong?
Three Berries
Active member
Better check the voltage again and make sure they match to what you have. You in the US?
Usually if there is an issue with long duty cycles using CO2 injection its the solenoid freezing up. With the proper input voltage unless the environment is crazy hot the solenoid will be fine with continuous duty.
FWIW There are heaters available from welding supply shops if you are having regulator freeze up issues. (also check tank for siphon tube)
