Clones getting burned and dying from ph or nutrients?

[Big CLones]

Ill be trying promix next. It has everything i need and some lime. @mountainorganics said eco scraps can kill plants so ill drop that as well for this test.

One last point about promix....jacks and calcium nitrate....

I dont acutally use any extra lime....

Dolomitic lime is calcium and magnesium....

obviously plenty of calcium in ....calcium nitrate...

and lots of magnesium in jacks....

This time keep it simple stupid......

You are on the right track.....

 

[truck]

Or burn em....rice hull ash is extremely high in amorphous Si--just like bamboo ash.

Can't imagine me "cooking soil" the same time duration that I veg plants...just so rice hulls can breakdown...time is money.

Being perpetual I pull a harvest every week-10 days and imagine the space required to have different batches sitting for few months to cook...8 weeks = 8 batches. 10 plants per batch--at 5 gallons per plant, that equates to 50 gallons per batch or 400 gallons for 8 batches. Talk about a big foot print....hmmm.

IMO, replacing inputs (kelp meal, rice hulls, etc) that take an extraordinary long time to breakdown with ones that have a shorter time--this long "cooking time" thing can easily be avoided. I use the grow medium's pH as my indicator--once it rises to 6.5 or so...I am good to go--which usually takes about 10 days or so to "cook". Also...grinding certain inputs to a fine talcum-like powder decreases the decomposition time considerably (since the time it takes for a nitrogen rich input to become Plant Available is similar to it's decomposition rate). Think chunk vs particle--which will fully decompose the soonest?

The smaller the particle size the faster it will be readily used and or absorbed. at least from everything i've read and experienced.

I can imagine it because that's what i do for a commercial grow. we harvest every other week, with the occasional back to back harvest. Its pretty fun and i have the space, man power, and equipment to pull it off. and our long term savings continues to rise over time buying soil has to be the most expensive part of growing indoors besides the electric bill, its hard to reduce the electric bill, but soil can be saved and reused. its just recycling old root balls and adding back in some goodies to keep the soil happy. probably have close to two 50 yard piles, i've been recycling my own soil for about 4 years now, my goal is once we can have an indoor facility just for the soil, i won't really need to continue to add as many inputs as i will have more control over the soil environment and will have less need to continually bust up the clay soils and the slight loss of soil do to wind and water erosion. Rice hulls do amazing things to soil, love what it does to clay and shale soils, i just learned it needs some time to work the way i want it too, i don't think i was getting the ratios right when trying to use them as a replacement to perlite. My experience tells me i can put just about what ever i want into a soil pile as long as i wait 2 months, i'm going to be golden.

 

[jackspratt61]

perlite only

perlite only

I have 95% + using perlite only. Beer cup full perlite,saturate with water,drain and set cut 1" from bottom. No drainage holes. Leave no more than 1/4" of water in bottom. Approx. two weeks to roots. Easily shaken apart and planted. Low light...No fail!

Use strong,healthy growing tips 6-10".

 

[jonhova]

hey guys here's an update of the 2 plants. I put the plant that is really healthy into 60% S.Peat Moss, 20% old soil that has been sitting out for a month and a half that previously burned my plants and the rest lava rock for aeration. The old soil had a high concentration of organic matter like EWC and the Eco Scraps compost. I think that was my problem.


I added 1 teaspoon on crab meal, kelp meal, 1 1/2 teaspoons of epsoma dolo lime, 1 neem meal. All these on the light side instead of the recommended 2 tablespoons per gallon.

The unhealthy plant that is in the back with less growth is going into 60% S. Peat Moss, 40% lava rock.

same amendments.

I checked my PH of my water and it is a solid 7.0 with strips.
I tested all my old and new soils and they were at 7.0 PH.
I doubt i have a PH problem here.

They got transferred into 1 gallon smartpots.

heres the pics

 

[jonhova]

The smaller the particle size the faster it will be readily used and or absorbed. at least from everything i've read and experienced.

I can imagine it because that's what i do for a commercial grow. we harvest every other week, with the occasional back to back harvest. Its pretty fun and i have the space, man power, and equipment to pull it off. and our long term savings continues to rise over time buying soil has to be the most expensive part of growing indoors besides the electric bill, its hard to reduce the electric bill, but soil can be saved and reused. its just recycling old root balls and adding back in some goodies to keep the soil happy. probably have close to two 50 yard piles, i've been recycling my own soil for about 4 years now, my goal is once we can have an indoor facility just for the soil, i won't really need to continue to add as many inputs as i will have more control over the soil environment and will have less need to continually bust up the clay soils and the slight loss of soil do to wind and water erosion. Rice hulls do amazing things to soil, love what it does to clay and shale soils, i just learned it needs some time to work the way i want it too, i don't think i was getting the ratios right when trying to use them as a replacement to perlite. My experience tells me i can put just about what ever i want into a soil pile as long as i wait 2 months, i'm going to be golden.

Heres an update.

Growth has picked up. The new growth has short stems that do not seem to stretch much away from the main stem.

The color is much greener and uniform.

WPM looks like it is not getting worse by much.
Nightly Neem/kelp and an emulsifier has gotten rid of the WPM and fungus gnats.

Plant 1
http://imgur.com/xZXVvdy

http://imgur.com/A2BEA4F

http://imgur.com/IODjp7U
Plant 2
http://imgur.com/7PUt54V

http://imgur.com/skGDZLM

http://imgur.com/u8XiWBS

 

[truck]

looking good. Keep up with the sprays until you can just get to a weekly preventative. Is that bark mulch on top or is that how soil looks after scratching the surface?

 

[jonhova]

Dry top layer

Dry top layer

looking good. Keep up with the sprays until you can just get to a weekly preventative. Is that bark mulch on top or is that how soil looks after scratching the surface?

it's peat moss, lava rock, and earth worm casting slurry.

when it dries out it looks like bark in a way.

I'll be adding some neem cake and malted barley next watering

 

[truck]

I'd top dress with some gypsum, it will help tha surface layer and i'd add and inch or two of coco and top dress worm castings slowly over time. Just from my experience so far, that's been the best route, things like green sand and more oyster shell do wonders as well, rock phosphate is another that does wonders in small amounts over time.