Cleanest way to run multiple LED strips in parallel?

[ManicOrganic]

Im thinking of doing a build with 12 samsung 44-48 watt strips. They are 24 volt and run between 1400-1800 mA . If I were to run them in parallel off one meanwell hlg-600h-24a or 2 hlg-320h-24a what would be the "cleanest" way to do so without wires everywhere and multiple wagos going to more wagos. I was thinking running 2 wire 18 ga thermostat wire if I can find it rated to handle the volts/amps or just running all my wire in a flexible conduit if the t-stat wont work. But then there is still the issue of running multiple wagos connecting everything. Is there some kind of terminal block or something that would work? Wish they made those lever lock wagos in bigger sizes. Or am I just wasting time running them in parallel and should just get a constant current driver at 1750mA and wire in seires?

 

[brickweeder]

I think even with terminal blocks in a parallel config, you'll have wires everywhere, its just a matter of if they are hidden or not. But using terminal blocks would be cleaner than Wagos, which are easy, but bulky. Plus terminal blocks would be mounted to your frame and wouldn't dangle like the wagos. I've got wagos with 5 connections, but thats still not enough for your plan.

25 amps for the hlg-600-24 is a lot of current, 18g to the + and - terminal blocks may not be enough. Might have to revisit your wiring size. The multiple drivers is probably the better option than a single.

Series would do away with the terminal blocks and thick wires, but its a matter of if you want to deal with high voltages rather than high current. Again, multiple drivers might be a better option than a single.

If you run channel as your heatsinks, you can hide/protect your wiring within the channel (whether you run parallel or series), and bring the wires out to near the strip connections via grommeted holes...its more work, but it is cleaner. You can also solder and heatshrink the wiring to eliminate connectors.

 

[ManicOrganic]

Thanks. Ya I think multiple drivers is probably the way to go. Maybe make 2 separate frames with 6 strips each that way they are a little more versatile and I can add lights as needed.

 

[f-e]

Don't the strips have two lots of terminations, for daisy-chaining?
Bit crap if they don't..

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

 

[art.spliff]

 

[AgentPothead]

12 at 1800 would be 21,600 which is 21.6 amps, he's technically under the 24 amps of that driver. But know the harder you push the driver, the warmer it will run, which lowers efficiency, which cause it to run warmer, which lowers efficiency, etc. I think the rule of thumb is 80% which would be 19.2 amps, so you'd be cutting it close with 1 driver, if I'm remembering correctly. I just took a rip of GG though, so remembering is not my strong suit atm. Oh that's actually a 25 amp driver, which raises 80% to 20 even, still cutting it close I think though.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

If you run channel as your heatsinks, you can hide/protect your wiring within the channel (whether you run parallel or series), and bring the wires out to near the strip connections via grommeted holes...its more work, but it is cleaner.

How hot does the channel get?

Because the following also applies to wiring

But know the harder you push the driver, the warmer it will run, which lowers efficiency, which cause it to run warmer, which lowers efficiency, etc.

Too much heat on your wires and you'll be running your driver harder, drawing more electricity and producing more heat.

 

[brickweeder]

How hot does the channel get?

I've run 2 samsung strips on channel at 1A and the channel was warm to touch (not hot). 1.4 to 1.8 will run higher, but shouldn't be too bad. but it still depends on the set up and how large the u channel is relative to the strips.

Per AgentP:Too much heat on your wires and you'll be running your driver harder, drawing more electricity and producing more heat.

the samsung strips don't get that hot when sinked, so this is not really an issue. Its not like they are cobs.

 

[AgentPothead]

I've run 2 samsung strips on channel at 1A and the channel was warm to touch (not hot). 1.4 to 1.8 will run higher, but shouldn't be too bad. but it still depends on the set up and how large the u channel is relative to the strips.





the samsung strips don't get that hot when sinked, so this is not really an issue. Its not like they are cobs.

Not talking about the led's, I'm talking about the meanwell driver. All electronics efficiency inversely scales with heat, but the leds tend to have some pretty big heatsinks attached, like the entire tray they are connected to. Drivers tend to just be chucked some where and forgotten about. Realistically, he should be fine as long as there is airflow, they aren't stuck in a box/cabinet.

 

[brickweeder]

Not talking about the led's, I'm talking about the meanwell driver. All electronics efficiency inversely scales with heat, but the leds tend to have some pretty big heatsinks attached, like the entire tray they are connected to. Drivers tend to just be chucked some where and forgotten about. Realistically, he should be fine as long as there is airflow, they aren't stuck in a box/cabinet.

If I remember correctly, some of the MW drivers have an efficiency curve where below a certain load and above another higher load, they are less efficient (based on the 115v datasheet curves). But they have an auto shutoff feature where when the driver hits 90C, it shuts off, so thermal runaway or substantive decreasing efficiency with heat is a non-issue. Its all in the datasheet, so ts best to consult that for those that actually DIY, and use that as the basis for decisions.

 

[ManicOrganic]

Thanks for all the input guys. I have 2 meanwell hlg-320h-24a drivers on order. I found 18/2 t-stat wire rated at 300v that should work well. I'm still looking for my best option for 4 blocks to split each leg of the DC voltage into 6 lines. If anyone has an opinion on terminal blocks that are best suited to this job please let me know. A brand name and modle or a link would be great.

I'm going to build these a 2 separate lights that are exactly the same. Going to build them on 44"x17" frames made from aluminum so I can fit 2 in a 4'x'4' tent or build a 3rd light and be able to pack 18 strips into a 5x5 for over 800w of led goodness. Still debating running my DC wire threw sealtite flex conduit from the lights frames and out to the drivers that I would like to mount inside of a large electrical box outside the grow spaces. I think the flex conduit would look nice and provide protection for the DC wites but not sure if it would be practical to moving the light around. Also would like to wire a couple for the cheap digital volt/amp meters I see some poeple using into each light. That's my plan for now. Still have to order everything but the drivers so it could be tweeked. Any go ideas please share.

 

[f-e]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PDVG6C...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

[ManicOrganic]

That looks like a winner. Would you use it for led with fuses in it? If so what size fuse would you use? I assume one slightly larger than the amps each strip would pull? Thanks. That wasn't what I had in mind when I asked about a terminal block but it might be better than anything I had in mind.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PDVG6C...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

[Boyd Crowder]

ill leave this here

 

[Boyd Crowder]

youll want a drill press and tap to make these work well with the heat sinks
use paste
make sure you get enough sink to passively disspate the 50 watts :ie the sticks i use are 6$ 2 foot 96ct 301bs , they drop ~9k lumens and do 64 watts so ten to a hlg 600h but the 2.0079 profile on heatsinksusa i need 26" instead of 24 to handle all of it

 

[Boyd Crowder]

also , for about 50$ more theres this interesting lil badass https://www.alibaba.com/product-det....41413.15.317035cey7eEiz&fullFirstScreen=true