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Chinese Cloning!

geopolitical

Vladimir Demikhov Fanboy
Veteran
Grafting works great. The only major problem I've encountered is virus intolerance of the graft union. Pretty spectacular failures. Can't do apple-pear-plum though. Stone fruits & pome fruits don't mix well. Hell, pears & apples don't mix well either, the only apple/pear I've seen used a 3 way and wasn't very healthy.
 

Greenheart

Active member
Veteran
I would like to suggest using a "doming" device.

I have a frankenmomma that now has 7 strains total. The biggest key to her success is ziplocks. I use them for 3-4 weeks taking them off twice a day to mist the scion and allow the graft to "breathe" for a few minutes. Seems to work well.

Best of luck to your experiment.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Yes this is standard practice in fruit, nut, rose, and other industries. If I were to try it, I'd get all the usual products such as wax, etc. Good luck, very interesting. Keep us updated. Thanks, granger
 

petemoss

Active member
I recut the stem of the clone so it has less foliage to support. So far so good. I'm wondering if the clone will actually grow roots or just grow out of the stump. Thanks for that link about air layering, WelderDan.
I remember reading about that technique and will check out that thread.

I've been getting poor yields on my Blue Cheese plants and when I look at the harvested root ball, the BC roots are undersized and mostly at the bottom of the pot. What I plan to do is stick a BC cutting into a host stump which has a well established root system. Hopefully, the cutting will take off. Sort of like putting a big engine in a tiny car.

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-BG-

Member
This is basic technique with the bonsai trees, works excellent with the trees. Never tried to do this with ganja myself but I think it could work...cuts wont grow any roots this way, it should start forming together with the host plant. I suggest keeping humidity up during this process and you should be fine :yes:
 

init4theplant

New member
I have tried this tech twice with no success I can keep the clone alive for awhile but it eventually succumbs. the 2cnd time I used some rooting gel but that didn't work either. I do want to try it again but will use grafting wax I think that will help keep bad things from happening to clone. good luck hope it works. oh yea and don't give nutes inless it shows with a established root system it would be a fatal shot in the arm.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...&va=xylem+and+phloem&fr=moz35&b=1&tab=organic

What you're trying to accomplish with grafting is not to root the cutting into another plant, you're trying to connect the circulatory system of the cutting to the circulatory system of the host plant. They will then heal together making a new plant. I don't know if rooting hormone is appropriate for this, and may be harmful. -Good luck. Keep us updated. Thanks. -granger
 

mofeta

Member
Veteran
I'm glad you are trying this pete! It's fun to experiment and learn new things.

If you want to actually graft the cut to the stump though, you have to do it a little differently. Take a look:

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Look closely to see where the worker is putting the tea cuttings on the tea stump. See how they are not in the center of the stem, but on the very edge? This is very important. The vascular tissues (kind of like pipes) that transport water/food between the roots and the leaves are formed on the outer part of the stem. The woody interior is mainly for support. For a graft to work, the ring of vascular cambium on both the rootstock and the scion (the cutting you are grafting) must be firmly touching. There are many ways to arrange it so the vascular cambiums are touching, the way the tea worker is doing it is called a "cleft graft".



Here is an illustration that shows this clearly:


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You don't need to use the wax sealer that they show in this illustration, in fact with weed it would be better not to use wax. just get the cutting in the cleft firmly, with the vascular cambiums touching.



picture.php

This is no good. The vascular cambiums of the stump and the cutting are not touching, so they can't grow together.

If you redo this, make fresh cuts on the stump and the cutting (you should make a wedge shaped cut on the cutting to fit in the wedge shaped cleft on the stump), and position the two so that the outer rings of vascular tissue are touching, it will work.

Good luck and have fun!
 

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petemoss

Active member
http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...&va=xylem+and+phloem&fr=moz35&b=1&tab=organic

What you're trying to accomplish with grafting is not to root the cutting into another plant, you're trying to connect the circulatory system of the cutting to the circulatory system of the host plant. They will then heal together making a new plant. I don't know if rooting hormone is appropriate for this, and may be harmful. -Good luck. Keep us updated. Thanks. -granger

granger, that's what I suspected. My cutting won't form roots but will just meld into the stump, fed by the rootstock. That makes sense.

mofeta, your info about grafting was exactly what I needed! Thanks for description and especially for the pictures. Now I see what I should have done. All my harvested stumps have hollow stems and that hole looked so inviting! (no wisecracks, please!) My Satori cutting is still alive and may just make it. After recutting the stem, I scraped the inside of the hole so that the cambia are touching. But the next graft I'll do the right way!
 

big twinn

Super Member
Veteran
great info in this thread...i plant to experiment with this once my plants get to the right size this round
 

TLoft13

Member
Grafting works great. The only major problem I've encountered is virus intolerance of the graft union. Pretty spectacular failures. Can't do apple-pear-plum though. Stone fruits & pome fruits don't mix well. Hell, pears & apples don't mix well either, the only apple/pear I've seen used a 3 way and wasn't very healthy.
You can do it multilayered. Use a "spacer" graft who is compatible with both the roots and the specific graft(plum ect.). not worth the hassle though from an economic viewpoint.
Edit: Sorry doubleposted by accident.
 

TLoft13

Member
granger, that's what I suspected. My cutting won't form roots but will just meld into the stump, fed by the rootstock. That makes sense.

mofeta, your info about grafting was exactly what I needed! Thanks for description and especially for the pictures. Now I see what I should have done. All my harvested stumps have hollow stems and that hole looked so inviting! (no wisecracks, please!) My Satori cutting is still alive and may just make it. After recutting the stem, I scraped the inside of the hole so that the cambia are touching. But the next graft I'll do the right way!
Heed what Mofeta said, he knows what he's doing. Another nice thing is you can do a few, like 2- 5 clones depending on the circumference and your fine motor skills, on the same rootstump in this way, different strains or not.

Later you could consider setting your plant deeper in the ground, burying the cut. Brings additional mechanical stability and nicer look. Risk is the plants can throw own roots and become different plants again.
Have fun experimenting!
 

northstate

Member
ICMag Donor
Kick ass! way to experiment and bring in some new fun. I think member Stresstest has done some multigraft cuttings and stuff if my irie brain is working...NS
 
S

swisscheese

This looks like something I will try after my next run. I'm always breaking plants and masking taping them back together don't know why I never tried to reuse old root stocks in the same or similar way. I mean if it worked talk about a jump start for the cutting to have potentially huge roots already developed!!!
 

petemoss

Active member
Sorry guys, I haven't posted in a while. I gave up on grafting because my clones are just too small. I keep bonzai moms and the clones I take are usually 1-2 inches tall, so the stems are too thin to cut a notch into.
 
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