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Cheap Nutrient Line for Commercial and Home Grows?

ZK7

Member
Thank you for your reply @sublingual I'm excited to try and customise nutes for better results. I'm against using RO water since it's so wasteful, so would be good to be able to use tap water
 

Old Uncle Ben

Active member
Hi ZK7,
I am replying to you. Don't listen to that 1st quote of Ben's. I can't remove it from replying to you. I didn't take his bait and the irrelevant link of his-I'm in coco and have no dry channels. The crap he posted about pots sitting in nutrient solution is total bunk. You will kill plants that way (unless you are bubbling it). He might say that he doesn't show his grow because he is in a non-legal state. In that case he should stay off these boards. I don't like to engage trolls.
Now having dealt with that unpleasantness, I think you should be fine with Yara and your water.
Look you ignorant dork, I never said to leave it in water. That's a trick to restore soil which has reached a stage of hydrophobia. Read the link I gave you.

Bait? What the fuck are you talking about?

My grows, papers, and advice are and have been all over the internet, for 20+ years. Do some homework.

Pearls before swine.......
 
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Old Uncle Ben

Active member
Thank you for your reply @sublingual I'm excited to try and customise nutes for better results. I'm against using RO water since it's so wasteful, so would be good to be able to use tap water
Start with rainwater. I store 3,200 gals. collected off my greenhouse.

You need to have a least the 13 essential elements in the right proportion. Dyna-Gro has that in one cheap, complete food. When it comes to 99% of cannabis customizers, it usually is a game of fishing that does not end well.

UB
 

xtsho

Active member
Calcium nitrate, MKP, and a micronutrient blend. This is from a local company and only available in Oregon but Jacks and Masterblend are basically the same as they're intended to be used with calcium nitrate. The NPK ratios of Jacks and VitaGrow SuperMicro are similar at with slightly different NPK values. 5-12-26 for Jacks and 3-10-20 for VitaGrow. The 3 part makes it easy to adapt to specific plant needs. You don't need fancy nutrients to grow cannabis. The plants needs are basic and are not unique from the majority of other plants.

Many years ago I briefly went down the path many take and got caught up in all the nutrient nonsense. Anyone with a basic understanding of plant nutrition and how plants process the nutrients you provide understands you don't need all the stuff many are dumping on their plants.

I've used this for hydro, coco, and soil with excellent results because it has everything the plant needs to thrive. When I'm not using this I just use MaxiBloom from GH because it's easy and also provides the plant with what it needs. There are many inexpensive options that will work in both commercial and home grows.

The VitaGrow is just what I settled on because it was from the oldest hydro store in my city where I got most of my supplies from and it was a fraction of the cost of everything else. The first grow using it was one of the best I'd had in my life.

This isn't rocket science. It's an easy to grow plant. People often overcomplicate simple tasks.

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I don't believe in paying ridiculous amounts of money to fertilize my plants and I don't believe in defoliating either. Grown with VitaGrow. A couple dollars at most for an entire grow filling a 4x4 tent. It was a good harvest.

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sublingual

Active member
Sorry, Uncle Ben. I apologize.
I think we were speaking past each other about different topics, maybe even growing philosophy.
Perhaps I emphasize the uniqueness of the plant where you apply growing principles in general to the plant.
My focus is how Cannabis is different in its requirements from other plants and trying to find best practices.
 

Old Uncle Ben

Active member
Many years ago I briefly went down the path many take and got caught up in all the nutrient nonsense. Anyone with a basic understanding of plant nutrition and how plants process the nutrients you provide understands you don't need all the stuff many are dumping on their plants.

Been preaching this simple concept for many many years.

Plants look great too, you've learned what makes a plant tick,

Uncle Ben
 

ZK7

Member
Start with rainwater. I store 3,200 gals. collected off my greenhouse.

You need to have a least the 13 essential elements in the right proportion. Dyna-Gro has that in one cheap, complete food. When it comes to 99% of cannabis customizers, it usually is a game of fishing that does not end well.

UB
Hows it any different to using nutes that some company has bottled up themselves? I'd rather powders that allow me to customize plant food based on visual symptoms
 

Chuckeye

Active member
I've grown with AN ph perfect, GH Maxi series and Mega Crop one part.

Mixing 3+ assorted liquids by millimeters with AN got old in a hurry !

GH Maxi series and Mega Crop one part are a breeze by weight...

Hard to tell the difference between them with results aside from cost, Mega Crop one part being the least expensive.

On the left is Six Shooter auto in a 5 gallon pail, GroBuckets, ProMix HP and Mega Crop one part.

On the right is Wedding Cheesecake auto in a five gallon pail, 4 gallons of perlite and GH MaxiGrow/Bloom.

Day 107 The Girls 5 Nov 2023.jpg


Cheers
 

Hiddenjems

Active member
Hows it any different to using nutes that some company has bottled up themselves? I'd rather powders that allow me to customize plant food based on visual symptoms
It can have you chasing your tail. Especially when with any complete base nutrient all I’ve ever had to do to fix deficiencies is to refill the tanks with fresh solution at a stronger concentration.

Cannabis is a weed and can be pushed extremely hard with high intensity light, the feeding has to keep up.
 

ZK7

Member
It can have you chasing your tail. Especially when with any complete base nutrient all I’ve ever had to do to fix deficiencies is to refill the tanks with fresh solution at a stronger concentration.

Cannabis is a weed and can be pushed extremely hard with high intensity light, the feeding has to keep up.
It still doesn't seem that much different as long as the ratios are not widlly out of whack.

Plants in a hydro res will take what they need and then when it becomes unbalanced it's time to change the res

I'm yet to use a nutrient like jacks or yara but can you explain to me how it is any different? to me it looks like there is more control to get things exactly where you need to be, rather than mindlessly throwing new A+B solution in the res whenever there is a problem, you can actually have a better understanding of what the problem is to begin with
 
What do you think about using that formula with tap water that has 250ppm calcium carbonate and 5ppm magnesium. Total ppm of tap water = 320ppm
I've seen yara at lower prices here than masterblend. How would you make a yara version of the masterblend tho?
 

Hiddenjems

Active member
It still doesn't seem that much different as long as the ratios are not widlly out of whack.

Plants in a hydro res will take what they need and then when it becomes unbalanced it's time to change the res

I'm yet to use a nutrient like jacks or yara but can you explain to me how it is any different? to me it looks like there is more control to get things exactly where you need to be, rather than mindlessly throwing new A+B solution in the res whenever there is a problem, you can actually have a better understanding of what the problem is to begin with
I’ve done full runs never changing the ratio and the difference between a base nute run, and and one where I change nutes based upon need isn’t really noticeable.

I do flood tables with drain to Rez.


I’m getting some of the best results I’ve ever had running Florapro powders from gh, and nothing else.

The genetics and the environment have the largest effect on growth as long as you don’t have deficiencies.
 

Old Uncle Ben

Active member
It can have you chasing your tail. Especially when with any complete base nutrient all I’ve ever had to do to fix deficiencies is to refill the tanks with fresh solution at a stronger concentration.

Cannabis is a weed and can be pushed extremely hard with high intensity light, the feeding has to keep up.

Maybe in the adult stage, during the stretch but generally not in nature, which are the conditions I mimic no matter what the plant material I'm growing. You don't grow a certain species of orchids without knowing where it came from and what conditions it's been conditioned to for 1,000's of years. Same with cannabis.

Cannabis gets fed all the time with minimum nutrients until harvest in nature and yes we're talking 3 meter trees. The same with light provided in nature. In nature the plant is getting the least amount of total daily photos during harvest during the fall/early winter season when the sun is low on the horizon and the days are short.

Check out what the "light saturation point" is. Less is more.

Here's a take on CHEAP and effective growing. You guys doing all these trendy, kewl tables and such and pissing off your money on cannabis 10 part snake oils might just want to make life a little simpler by grabbing a pot of soil and a small handful of Osmocote Indoor-Outdoor Plus.
https://www.icmag.com/threads/osmoc...-peasy-complete.18126434/page-9#post-18459376

Recycle your soil into your veggie garden or for that new philodendron sitting there in the kitchen.

Take it easy,
Uncle Ben
 

Hiddenjems

Active member
Maybe in the adult stage, during the stretch but generally not in nature, which are the conditions I mimic no matter what the plant material I'm growing. You don't grow a certain species of orchids without knowing where it came from and what conditions it's been conditioned to for 1,000's of years. Same with cannabis.

Cannabis gets fed all the time with minimum nutrients until harvest in nature and yes we're talking 3 meter trees. The same with light provided in nature. In nature the plant is getting the least amount of total daily photos during harvest during the fall/early winter season when the sun is low on the horizon and the days are short.

Check out what the "light saturation point" is. Less is more.

Here's a take on CHEAP and effective growing. You guys doing all these trendy, kewl tables and such and pissing off your money on cannabis 10 part snake oils might just want to make life a little simpler by grabbing a pot of soil and a small handful of Osmocote Indoor-Outdoor Plus.
https://www.icmag.com/threads/osmoc...-peasy-complete.18126434/page-9#post-18459376

Recycle your soil into your veggie garden or for that new philodendron sitting there in the kitchen.

Take it easy,
Uncle Ben
I say this all the time. I run straight hydro and I use around $10-$15 in nutes per lb of dried flower.
 

CharlesU Farley

Active member
Sorry, Uncle Ben. I apologize.
I think we were speaking past each other about different topics, maybe even growing philosophy.
Perhaps I emphasize the uniqueness of the plant where you apply growing principles in general to the plant.
My focus is how Cannabis is different in its requirements from other plants and trying to find best practices.
As long as you don't get so caught up in the numbers, and measuring, and calculating, and trying to assure that everything is just perfect and optimal, that you forget to simply observe the plant and see how it's reacting to its environment.

Personally (and this is only my opinion and does not reflect negatively on yours... a saying here in America, opinions and assholes... everybody's got one) cannabis is not tremendously different than corn, tomatoes, or any other plant that requires lots of sun, water, and nutrients.

I've yet to see one product that's specifically marketed to cannabis growers that does anything extraordinary, other than separate a purchaser from their cash, in the most efficient and cost-effective way possible. ;)
 

LostTribe

Active member
It would be real nice if this thread was back to the OP topic!

Backs to the topic at hand.

Jacks users only!

Do you run full strength throughout growth as recommended on the Jacks321 feeding table? Final ec for veg and bloom are both 1200 ppm (500) and 2.4ec. I am currently watering at 1.3ec and having some light coloration between veins in early veg. No burnt tips. Ph 5.5-6.2

RO
jacks321
mr Fulvic @ .5ml/gal
1/2 tsp/gal silica blast

Much appreciated!
LT

EDIT I FIGURED OUT THAT MY METER WAS BAD AND ONCE CORRECTED EVERYTHING GREENED UP AND WAS FINE AT FULL STRENGTH OF 2.4EC PH 5.8-6.2 CHEERS!
 
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LJ farming

Active member
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KISS amigos aka Keep it Simple Stoner.

Bills method works great! Might need a couple minimal adjustments because nobody’s environment is the same! I started using Bills recommendations over 2 years ago and live in Comifornia! My dope is sought after period!

Not sure if Bill would approve but I lower CalNit 10% per week weeks 5-8 and add Growmore Flowering CalMag to keep the Engine running/Ca sufficient. Otherwise I follow his recommendations to a T in an 8 light COCO DTW set up.

Even more controversial I strip my bitches naked day 21-22 and never allow a leaf with a petiole on I until chop!

I guarantee all of you that my way isn’t the way but there is definitely no need for arguing or saying your way is!

Merry Christmas

Peace


LJ
 

LJ farming

Active member
It would be real nice if this thread was back to the OP topic!

Backs to the topic at hand.

Jacks users only!

Do you run full strength throughout growth as recommended on the Jacks321 feeding table? Final ec for veg and bloom are both 1200 ppm (500) and 2.4ec. I am currently watering at 1.3ec and having some light coloration between veins in early veg. No burnt tips. Ph 5.5-6.2

RO
jacks321
mr Fulvic @ .5ml/gal
1/2 tsp/gal silica blast

Much appreciated!
LT
Do you run Growmore Flowering CalMag like he suggests during late stretch and first couple weeks after FLIP?

I have been running his suggested Jacks for a couple years and once I made a couple minor adjustments after switching from HPS to LED honestly have never done better.
 
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