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Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH)

soursmoker

East Coast, All Day!
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thanks everyone, how hard is it to put together one of the ballast kits? And what do you usually put all the parts in? thanks so much guys!
 

soursmoker

East Coast, All Day!
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link to 330 spectrum?


I think this is it.


cdm.jpg
 

fungzyme

Active member
thanks everyone, how hard is it to put together one of the ballast kits? And what do you usually put all the parts in? thanks so much guys!

Not that hard - there are visual instruction sets on the internet. HTG supply has some with their rebuild kits. (both MH and HPS)

http://htgsupply.com/files/admin/img/Ballasts/HTGSupply/BAL-MH-XXX-Wiring.jpg


As far as what to put it in, I've only rebuilt ballasts, so I used the original metal base, but I imagine a small PC case might be adaptable
(?) You can find those everywhere for free.
 
thanks everyone, how hard is it to put together one of the ballast kits? And what do you usually put all the parts in? thanks so much guys!

You do not need to mount the ballast/capacitor in anything. You could set them on a piece of scrap sheet metal or whatever really. They really don't get hot when in open air, only when enclosed with a lack of air flow do they heat up. If you can match up wire colors, use wire nuts and electrical tape then you can set your own ballast components up. Do you have a local hydro shop? If they do ballast repair then they probably have extra cases and maybe even a used ballast they can sell you for cheap. I paid $50 for my used ballast in a case.

I think this is it.


View Image

That is the one... Pulled from here - http://www.advancedtechlighting.com/cdmallstart.htm
 

rives

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You do not need to mount the ballast/capacitor in anything. You could set them on a piece of scrap sheet metal or whatever really. They really don't get hot when in open air, only when enclosed with a lack of air flow do they heat up.

While this is true in theory, I would absolutely not recommend it. Electrical components need to be enclosed in a grounded metal enclosure so that any possibility of incidental contact with energized components is eliminated. It also precludes the possibility of pulling connections apart when the wires get snagged on things, water spills, etc.

PC cases are among the better choices that I've seen used, but people have successfully used lunchboxes, small metal toolboxes, etc. Keep it safe.
 
While this is true in theory, I would absolutely not recommend it. Electrical components need to be enclosed in a grounded metal enclosure so that any possibility of incidental contact with energized components is eliminated. It also precludes the possibility of pulling connections apart when the wires get snagged on things, water spills, etc.

PC cases are among the better choices that I've seen used, but people have successfully used lunchboxes, small metal toolboxes, etc. Keep it safe.

You can connect the ground wire of the outlet to the bracket holding the ballast and now you're safe.

A better idea would be to not stick your fingers where they don't belong. Don't place the ballast where you will be dumping water, either. You can secure wires down with plastic nail/staple clips/clamps.

I insisted on using a metal ballast case for mine. My point is just that an open ballast can be made just as safe.
 

Induction87

New member
Does anyone know anything about the Phillips Ceramalux 430w and 1000w?

I was just tooling around on the Phillips website and saw these in their horticultural section.
 

rives

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You can connect the ground wire of the outlet to the bracket holding the ballast and now you're safe.

A better idea would be to not stick your fingers where they don't belong. Don't place the ballast where you will be dumping water, either. You can secure wires down with plastic nail/staple clips/clamps.

I insisted on using a metal ballast case for mine. My point is just that an open ballast can be made just as safe.

I've been an electrician for 35+ years, and I can assure you that it isn't "just as safe". If that were the case, consumer electronics wouldn't be packaged the way that they are - you protect for the worst case, not what you "think" might happen. Besides which, if you had a fire, the insurance inspector would love to find something like that.
 
I've been an electrician for 35+ years, and I can assure you that it isn't "just as safe". If that were the case, consumer electronics wouldn't be packaged the way that they are - you protect for the worst case, not what you "think" might happen. Besides which, if you had a fire, the insurance inspector would love to find something like that.

I'm not disagreeing with the added safety of a metal case, but the Murphy's Law situations which you pointed out can be avoided without the use of a case. The point is that you don't NEED a metal housing for the ballast operation to be "safe". If you insist on spilling water on your electronics or poking your digits around a live high voltage device then you probably shouldn't be playing with this kind of stuff to begin with. Let's not confuse a DVD player with commercial lighting equipment.

Like I said before, I insisted on using a case for my mag ballast for the rare event that the AutoTransformer should have some type of critical failure.

I'm sure the inspector would be wondering why the hell you're using an HID lamp in your residential dwelling to begin with...
 

rives

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An open transformer is a potential burn hazard under normal operating conditions, and a fire hazard during failure until if/when there is a sufficient ground fault to take out the circuit protection. Capacitors typically have open connections that can knock the shit out of you upon incidental contact. I cannot count the number of blown capacitors with case failures that I've seen over the years - in the case of oil-filled capacitors, it makes for a hell of a mess. The wire retention technique that you describe in place of correct strain relief is so far from accepted practice that it is laughable.

You obviously had enough sense to put your ballast in an enclosure - to profess that it isn't necessary to people with no background that are here seeking information is negligent at best.

An inspector wondering about what you are doing with an HID lamp, particularly if you are legal in a med state, is of far less consequence than giving him a free ticket to invalidate your fire insurance. If your installation meets NEC standards, you would at least have recourse to fight their findings - if you have an installation that looks like it never should have left the test bench, you won't have a leg to stand on.
 
If you insist on spilling water on your electronics or poking your digits around a live high voltage device then you probably shouldn't be playing with this kind of stuff to begin with.

I'm not endorsing it be done by someone with no experience. Just saying that it can be done safely.

There are no bare conductors in my ballast case and I used liquid tight cord grips.

Plenty of people mount their bare transformers to plywood or MDF and have no issues. Don't mount your equipment where you will need to step over or pour water by, etc. My point is that if you are going to open mount the equipment you can do it in a way that is as safe as possible for that situation, which barring the transformer blowing up, you won't have an issue. You can still ground it... Whether it is in a case or not that won't stop an arc forming from a bare conductor. You can mount it in a metal box and still have problems if you leave bare wires hanging around or let wire insulation lay on hot components.

Staple or nail wire clamps will keep wires from moving around plenty fine. I've used them many times for a lot of different wiring installations and have no problems. You can yank on the wire and it's held secure and doesn't budge.

The reason I went with a case is because I'm afraid of the transformer going BOOM.
 

rives

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I think that it's pretty damn funny that you used cordgrips and a metal case, but advocate staples and a board for others. Anyone that mounts an open transformer on a piece of plywood or MDF is either ignorant or stoned stupid. Stoner wiring practices like this are why communities all over California are instituting regulations and inspections of indoor grows.
 
I think that it's pretty damn funny that you used cordgrips and a metal case, but advocate staples and a board for others. Anyone that mounts an open transformer on a piece of plywood or MDF is either ignorant or stoned stupid. Stoner wiring practices like this are why communities all over California are instituting regulations and inspections of indoor grows.

Did I say you should secure your wires down WITH staples? Or with staple/nail secured plastic cable clamps? (http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100196...d=10051&N=5yc1vZbm9f&R=100196642#.UV-Nu1e2Vpc) Considering your 35yrs of electrical experience I am sure you are familiar with this type of hardware. Did I say I'm an ADVOCATE of using plywood or other inferior materials? NO. I said it can be done SAFELY, though. I can use a piece of OSB and put a piece of sheet metal down on top of it and mount the transformer on brackets above that with the whole piece grounded out to the outlet and oh hell maybe I'll install an AFCI, too... Just to be extra cautious. Happy?

Or maybe I won't be a dumbass and dangle my twig and berries above the transformer while pouring water all over it? There was this dumbass kid in my 10th grade HS science that decided he wanted to find out first hand what happened if he shorted an outlet out with a paper clip. Maybe he's out there somewhere playing with a ballast kit and mounting it above his shower faucet head?
 

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